Resolving clicking CTC I3 Pro B 3 D printer issue

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  • čas přidán 13. 10. 2018
  • Do this at your own risk.
    My year old 3 D printer was acting up with under extrusion, an occasional scrambled LCD screen and inability to complete a print job. If you have the same printer, most likely you'll have the same clicking problem, and most likely you can eliminate or reduce the click by lowering the print speed from 100 to 62. You can do this by turning the knob on the printer's LCD panel.
    While some stepper motor issues can be resolved by increasing the stepper driver voltage, this did not work with me. The final breakdown was caused by a bad stepper wire connection from the extrusion motor to the stepper driver board. This stopped the nozzle from extruding completely. My main problem though was a bad extrusion stepper motor.
    Once it was replaced and adjusted, the printer worked normally again. You can check the voltage of the power supply (beware of high AC line voltage) and stepper driver voltage and wiring before proceeding to other more involved procedures. The usual clicking problem caused by clogged nozzle and the nozzle being too close to the print bed should also be checked.
    Clicking is usually caused by too much friction, back pressure or insufficient current to drive the motor. Check the extruder drive gear to see if it is not rubbing the housing or the heat sink. That happened to me when I positioned the extruder drive gear too close to the heat sink.
    UPDATE: 10/18,2018. I have made the following "Improvements":
    * Change the print speed from 100 to 62. Lower the print speed until you no longer hear any clicking noise. When the nozzle travels too fast, it doesn't have the ability to dispense all the melted plastic and the back up pressure cause the stepper motor to skip.
    *Ball bearing filament feeds using 608Z skateboard bearings
    *Adjusted stepper driver voltage to .82 volt
    *Replaced clogged nozzle. Clogged nozzles is a recurring problem that happen to my prints after 6 or 7 hours. I take the nozzle off and burn off the filament inside the nozzle by holding the nozzle over a gas range flame. Cheaper than using a new one. I have to look into a better hot end assembly.
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Komentáře • 4

  • @Grim1873
    @Grim1873 Před 5 lety

    Thank you!!!

  • @builtrodewreckedit
    @builtrodewreckedit Před 5 lety

    Glad you got it working again... i have never had a stepper motor go bad. and the only time i ever heard clicking was when the driver board voltage was set too low. Have you located the break in the black wire... id be thinking it would be broken at the connector due to flexing?

    • @wtam69
      @wtam69  Před 5 lety

      The black wire's open circuit is at the crimp connector. Probably when the wire was stripped for the crimp there wasn't much bare wire to begin with. I tried increasing the stepper voltage but that didn't help the old motor. The old motor probably is still serviceable but new motor worked with the same setting used by the old motor.
      I'm still not satisfied with the extrusion because towards the end of a very long print (8 or more hours), I would still get some under extrusion and some clunking noise. This of course can be the nozzle, or bad filament (I'm using cheap filaments), bad main board or a number of other things. The mosfets for the heated bed burnt out long ago so who knows what else can go wrong with it.
      Did you have to replace the heatbed mosfets? I ordered a new main board so hopefully that will correct all the problems I've been experiencing.

  • @soysauce4328
    @soysauce4328 Před 4 lety

    how do you understand witch is the right driver