YOU SHOULD DO THIS TO YOUR ALTERNATOR
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
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Everyone that wants the most from their alternator and electrical to be safe should do this as explained in the video.
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Also, you can test grounds with a multimeter before making a hole in your vehicle.... scrape the paint and test the resistance. No need to run a 14 foot ground that won't make much of a difference.
Actually, there is a difference in some guaranteed "reliability" factors in the transmission line (ground) for a more efficient energy transmission, and may be as well as providing a "redundancy" for reducing failure (possible) later. And that will cost more money?
It’s to help create a better circuit with a cleaner path, just because you have less resistance at one point on the frame does not mean you will create a solid circuit on your system, this is more of an issue on unibody vehicles, but I’ve found that it helps no matter what
If ur not pushing big rms or don't have a battery bank ur right, won't make a difference, makes a big difference if u r trying to keep a bank charged tho, I was getting almost a volt drop at rear bank in my blazer when I used chassis ground , added a run for ground and voltage was same at bank as it was at front batteries
Electricity will always flow better in a less resistive path. That being said a separate cable from alternator to Amps/battery bank will be better.
What do you set it at, and what is considered at good reading?
Also if you do not want too drill more holes, you can run your grounds from your alt too your grounding point in your frame, it does help, but if you have a unibody make sure you do this too create a more direct path and create a clean circuit.... Thanks Jacob👍👍
if u get a odd sound coming from your system and u have it grounded to chassis and a dedicated ground wire to alt chassis, try just using the ground to your dedicated wire. the sound you are hearing is from two different resistances in the grounds. ( your wire is flowing much more and has less resistance than chassis can)
Thanks Bro! Learning a lot through these, My Install is almost done, just waiting on my 320a alt. BOOM!
@Doc Holiday Yes sir! All the power I need now!
I've Always heard of people grounding their alternators to rear batteries which is all nice and dandy if you have the extra $ or have extra cable laying around.... what doesn't seem to add up to me is:
1. There is a reason you're suppose to keep your grounds under 3 feet or so.
2. Your ground will take the shortest route, the path of least resistance, therefor how is running a 14 foot ground wire from alternator to rear batteries going to do any benefit?
I was thinking that's a long ass cable for a grond to travel through too?¿?
A ground cable made from copper will conduct better than a ground cable made from sheet steel as your chassis is made from. The 3 feet to your chassis isn't where your ground connection ends. It goes through the chassis too.
@@RobertJeffersonBased so if it travels through the whole chassis why in gods name would you run a 14 ft wire all the way to the battery in the back when its sitting on the chassis that is grounded? Seems like system redundancy, no?
@@bigdog506 same concept using wire or chassis, just that wire is less resistance than the frame which means less voltage drop at the amps or battery bank. I think a chassis is only good for like 3k before voltage drop gets too high ( watched a video somewhere but don't quote my numbers)
They say to run it under 3 ft because the shorter the runs the better obviously, but you're saying running a ground to you're chassis (I dont care if its 6 ft long) and one to the alt (or 2 of each) isn't going to have any benefit? Come on. Just think about it. You cant have too many grounds and you're system will most definitely utilize all the grounds it has. Not just "the path of least resistance".
Great job. Doing the same on my trucks now.
At the end of the day, science has proved that it's an absolute FACT that copper is a better conductor than than steel. If your car is made of copper then it really doesn't make a difference, but to all of you saying it doesn't matter, or a frame or unibody vehicle, you are all incorrect. A huge fine strand copper wire will deliver CONSIDERABLY more current to your amplifier than a steel conductor. It's not a matter of opinion, it's a fact. You all are selling yourselves and your systems short, hook up your system how Jacob Viral shows you in this video and you will pick up db's, fact. You all are trying to say that an inferior conductor will provide just as much current and that's not true, it's like saying a wooden wire will work just as well as copper, it's NOT TRUE and you're wrong. Add some runs of 4 gauge and you pick up decibels. Jacob Viral is not lying to you.
That's why I use "building wire." If it is good enough for my home, it can be used in my car.
@@masteraureliofind strand is only fine to make it flexible.
dc travels on the outside of each strand of wire, therefor a solid core 1/0 will not flow half the current of stranded 1/0
But there are video's on yt that says,you have to ground the back housing of the alt to the battery and to the chassis
Just grounding the bolt is not enough
And grounding the back of the alt will prevent heating up the alt
To bad I only have 1 battery 🔋 in my engine, 220 amp alternator under my hood. I ground both my amplifier on 2 small screw holes near the 3 row seat in a long suburban. I wonder that's why my voltage still sucks when I crank my 3600 rms watts up thanks Jacob I need more batteries with lots of big thick wires from my joke of a high put alternator to batteries that I hope to one day get!
Man u have a second battery tray in ur truck don't ya? 95 up chevs have a battery tray on both sides of radiator. Sometimes there is a storage box on driver side but the battery tray to replace that is cheap. I'm still only running 2 900 cranking amp flooded batteries but eventually going to atleast upgrade to AGMs , can't afford lithiums....ND atleast ground to your frame ( not the body) , I popped through cab and cleaned and grounded directly to my actual frame, same up front.
@@erik120719 thanks I do have a open area near the front were you can put another battery I don't have the battery tray buy I bet I could buy one and hook it up. Thanks
@@RyanBassForLife they r cheap,think last one I bought was $25
Never thought of that.
engine is mounted to chassis, chassis mounted to body. Acting like one distribution block, they are already connected. Far more metal than in any gauge wire, just a thought.
There are rubber mounts between those assemblies, that's what ground straps are all about.
@kline#20 On a pickup bed maybe, but the cab and engine are rubber mounted.
I Would Agree. I Have 2 Mechman 320 Amp Alts And Have 2 Runs Of 1/0 OFC From Alt Positives (1 Per Alt) And Then I Have 1 Run Of 3/0 CCA POS. I Have 1 Run Of 1/0 OFC Ground Per Alternator And Chassis Grounds. I Did A Voltage Drop On My Positive From Alt To Amp And I Was Seeing Less Then .1Volts. (only running 4000wrms After Box Rise On My DD M5) But The Voltage At Alternator Under Load Was .7 Volt Higher Then At The Amp. So My Grounds Are Not Enough. If I Did A Voltage Drop Test On My Ground From Alt To Amp I Would See .7Vs. That's How You See If Your Ground Or Power Is The Weak Link For Alternators. Biggest Problem Is Running 8 Runs Of 1/0 OFC Front To Back In A Car Without Seeing Any Of It hahaha.
Appreciate you breaking it down for us, I wasn't going to do this but after watching this video there's no way I'm not running those extra grounds to the back battery..🔋
Glad to help
not only do i have factory rounds on main battery but i also grounded alt new body and new frame then i have batt in back that is grounded to body frame and front all 0g alts kinda rough to get to but works nice video!
I'll rather just ground the alternator to the chassis as well as the battery to the chassis.
The alternator pulls electrons from the chassis so that should be main ground.
Should be but look at it like a freeway the chassis has turns and other lanes merging into it the wired ground is like the Bonneville salt flats meant for power and speed.
I have mine alternator to engine, engine to battery, and battery to strut tower (I have a unibody)
If its better show before and after with multimeter?
Hey have u ever used diodes to increase ur alt output voltage?. I have a 2 pin ho 350 alt n I'm lookin to increase charging from 14v to 15+. I alrdy have my diodes rdy to connect but I need to know which wire to splice into. There's only a red n a black one. Please help. You r my hero btw
Never just plug/play for alt, 14.8v was perfect for me with lifepo4 lithium or agm. Idk anything about that
Ty for this tip. Didn't have this plan but made scents to run it
Im suprised noone has pointed out that OFC welding cable is a lower purity than OFC wire made for car audio systems. Different materials.
So i need to put another rin of 1awg wire to my rear battery in the back to my 45ah Limitless Lithium battery . Okay I'll most definitely keep that in mind Jacob 😎👍
Hey brother, it also works just as we’ll if you run the wire from the alt too your grounding point on your frame from your back battery then you don’t have too drill more holes
1/0 awg
Good job but a short ground and short its best for better volts remember the power have to travel the shorter the better just a fyi
What you're forgetting is that the power still has to go from the amplifier in back to the battery or alternator up front so there is no such thing as a shorter distance.
How about full frame vehicles that's how I ran mine grounded my alt to the frame and same for my rear battery both on same frame rail as well
A lot do that and work just fine just then rely on the chassis ground for connection and not a direct line but shouldn’t be a problem.
@@JacobViral2 I mean I figured that sence the frame is a solid unit and from front to back its shouldn't be a problem but sub frame cars I could see that should be something to do
@@neurospicysleep I've got same setup, after I get my second 3/0 run in , I'm going to save and run dual 3/0 grounds back. Saw somewhere a frame is only good enuff for like 3k ( don't remember for sure if it was 3k , but I'm running 5k after rise and know I'm above what the frame is good for and I can tell it's not enuff )
Jacob viral 2 I'm currently still working on my alternator. Did the big 3 and my voltage is set to 14.3 volts resting. I have a 2007 Ford taurus and come to find out my cars stock electrical system won't allow that high voltage so I have to do a bypass on the electrical system.
So after adding all this copper, did you perform a test and witness any gain in volts or less voltage drop ?
Or is it just wasted time and money over theories ?.
I have 3 runs of Skyhigh 4/0 XL OFC front to back for an Orion amp. It gets expensive
Thank you jacob, so helpful. Btw, how many runs of power wire do you have front to back? I am running 4 runs of 1/0 ofc and one groung 1/0 ofc. That sound okay. For 4 runs, should i run 2 grounds front to back. That would be better huh. Would like your feedback please, thank you.
Could I just do a big 2 upgrade? Alt power to battery positive and battery negative to ground? .. I’m curious because the alternator is already grounded by it being bolted to the engine block
Yes but that ground to engine block and power to alt from battery and ground to alt and battery helps guarantee all are optimal output/safe.
could you please help, Im doing big 4 this weekend and was wondering if you can keep original grounds and plus. Im adding a 0 gauge wire (50mm2)
Yes keeping originals are recommended so your just adding on instead of removing plus in case you remove later the stock is there. goodluck :) thanks for watching and subscribing
that's the nature of everything, that's good 👍
Frustrating Question: What does it mean when while subs play low notes (30 Hz and under) they have a lot of excursion but little to no sound? They are rated to handle these low notes PLUS my vented labyrinth box is tuned and sized to the subs suggested specs. My amp's subsonic filter is set to 20 Hz (10Hz is lowest). I'm guessing I should try inverting them in my mid-size SUV. (Ford Edge) Subs are two Skar VXF 15s. Amp is Skar RP3500.1 @ 1-ohm. Thx everyone who tries to help.
The human ear can't hear notes past a certain point you'll be able to feel and see it but I can't remember the exact frequency the hz is. It's hard on the subs to play that low too even if designed to they'll heat up fast and throw backnforth extra hard on the subs.
Usually recessive excursion because of unloading or beyond below tuning and leading to more xmax and uncontrolled cone movement.
Ya what Jacob said. And scum bag is wrong low notes don’t cause much heat some guys use low notes to cool there sub I do. Your box tune is the down side to all ported boxes say your tuned to 30hz your sub will barley move at 30hz and will be loud and very clean go up or down 5-10 hz and you sub will move (jump) more and more. I’m tuned to 25hz to 20hz is still in a “safe” zone for my subs. I sometimes want to tune lower but only so many songs and bass tracks play that frequency. Also depends on your sub and power a sub really doesn’t need to be able to jump 4 inches to play low note but it does help the subs motor (magnet) needs to be a strong one so it can keep the coil in check and under control. Also a pair of subs or more is better for playing the LOWZ cause like Jacob said the lower the note I your more going to feel it then actually hear it. This is where “hair tricks” come into play. And be careful playing lows you can’t hear them as well and you can easily make a sub tear something by pushing it. And if you don’t have enough power trying to push those notes will just heat up your amp then your sub from CLIPPING. BASS ON!!
@@scumbag7158 makes sense now, I have a single avatar Stu 15 on a bc6k at 1 ohm in a cubed box tuned around 29 hertz and that sub gets really warm after playing a song or 2 while hitting those low notes, could it be that the sub needs a higher tuned box or subsonic filter needs to be higher in order to accommodate this issue
I had all my grounds going straight to my amplifier, I had four grounds and my amplifier had four negative inputs so I had one ground going into each negative input 4 total on my amplifier and NONE to the batteryat . So did I hook it up wrong? I have a B2 audio M16 the Great white amplifier
Make sure you double up to chassis ground and the batteries in back I assume your running.!
Thank you !!!! Running now.
Glad to help!
What about power from alt to back battery?
If you already have two runs to front battery/terminal and it’s linked to the back wire runs then it’s already like that basically.
3:04 that's not a frame
Exactly what I said!😂
Never bolt your grounds to the chassis.!! Always bolt ur grounds to the frame of the vehicle.!!!
I have a extra battery and just replaced my stock alternator with a high output alternator. There’s no difference in my voltage. Any ideas? I thought I would notice a difference, but no.
Idle voltage won’t change if it is regulated the same, only supply more current to support more draw.
so why did the big four upgrade and added a zero gauge OFC alternator ground I think the ground was part of a different unibody piece because when I reconnected my battery it shorted my battery out I think I was missing something there it was perfectly fine until I added the alternator ground should I use my original ground that I have from the battery to frame to put my alternator Ground on will that fix my shorting out problem
Awesome thanks brother...👍
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Jacob one day I would love to meet you and see what you think of my crazy setup and crazy me.
The alternator grounds to the motor the motor is grounded to the chassis you want your ground path as short as possible thats why you ground your rear batteries to your chassis. Not from a 10 ft ground cable run to your alternator then to your chassis
What you're saying is somewhat incorrect. You need to ask yourself why you want your ground path as short as possible. The reason is you want the least amount of resistance possible. A 10 ft ground cable run to your alternator is actually less resistance than the chassis because it's heavy gauge copper. Copper is way way less resistive then Steel. As he mentioned it's only a very tiny difference in voltage which is important for some people but not the majority of people. So his tip is basically for people trying to squeeze out every last bit of power out of their competition sound system.
@@JasonWW2000 the small boys won’t understand this concept. I run 15.5-15.7v and was dropping to 15.1-14.8 when I just had ground up front and ground in rear… but now since I added a dedicated ground from alt to rear while having the other he’s right cause now I only drop between 15.5 and 15.1. It’s only minimum but to me that drop matters
Stopping by to show love to your channel I'm a Content creator myself just starting my CZcams journey
Is it just ground wire ran from a lot to rear battery or do you do power as well from alt to rear battery?
Power wire should be linked to front battery shouldn’t matter like grounds as their separate, but alt to back and front is optimal of course.
Guarantee safety if you do gave a bad chassis ground so sure works for me.
What's with the green serpentine belt?
Higher quality belt with longer mileage warranty
I am very green when it comes to my budget sound system. Next time you are in Charlotte please let me know. Maybe you could help me make it better.
Send me a message on fb/Instagram jacobviral maybe I can assist questions
What size wire should I have ? I have wire going to positive side of battery from alternator. Is that correct ? Can I install a ground to ensure it’s grounded. I hsve a wire Blk/orange getting hot in the middle
0 gauge ofc wire like amzn.to/3V7mAGC is best for under hood and weather exposed. Yes double up wiring everywhere able.
I like that idea of grounding your rear battery to the alternator, and then to the CHASIS-ground system in your vehicle.
However, for those who use high power amplifiers might want to use high-energy storage capacitors for better bass response, then they can find some 500 microFarad or 1000 microFarad digital capacitors (capacitors with digital voltmeters) at various stores. (Where? I saw the first at Walmart and the second at the Pep Boys, respectively.)
Those 500 micro farad and 1000 micro farad are too small for a build like this. A second battery will do better then some cheap Chinese capacitor. It’s almost unseen to see a capacitor like that in higher level builds like this.
Those caps are crap DDONT BUY THOSE LITTLE CYLINDER CAPS. (1000 MICROFARAD IS NOTHING. YOU NEED A MINIMUM OF 50 FARAD TO BE OF ANY BENEFIT) You want to get an ultra cap by xs power or. Build one using yin long super capacitors xs power also sells individual super caps.
@@RollingThunder85 facts brother
Dont listen to ppl saying caps are garbage ive seen the big help they can be myself in many of my dads old setups growing up as a kid
For power wire to my back battery can I just hook it to the alternator instead of hooking it to the front battery first
Long as it's on the power connection yes, it's all tied together just ensure to fuse for safety.
should u run a power wire from second battery to alt then one from first battery too. so it charges better
Yep and doubling up helps current flow
Nice job but it seems your "run(s) from the rear battery to the front is too long and may not be giving you the maximum results...? Possibly at a midpoint ground to wherever is suitable and then to the final destination.
Haven’t had any issues but that is a good suggestion 🤔 thanks for watching
Are they all connected rather where you run the grounds after the big3 ?
Yes all grounds connected to the chassis, can be in multiple areas
How about the positive to alternator or front battery?
Yep part of the Big 3
What would be causing my alt to whine? It didn't do it till I did this
Alt could be working harder from the current draw or bad/worn belt slip?
Hey I have and question about doing big 4 on Chrysler 300 c 2006 with batteries in trunk should I run two ofc 0/2 power wire to back from alt to back batteries
Yes if able I would as it’s more current flow locations.
Always mount to your frame not your chassis...I've already tried this on my car made no difference..So I just doubled up on my positive terminals.. since I already ran two lines of 0 gauge.. A little overkill but I have four batteries in the truck...
Is there a specific alternator bolt to use to ground the alternator?
Long as it’s contacting the chassis your good
What do your batteries rest at? My always rest low like 12.2
12.6-12.8
Is that an explorer and if it is did u have to modify something in order to replace the stock alt with a HO alt?
Yes 2006 ford explorer 4.0 v6 and no, just tight fit and rearange the wires/lines to get it in.
Great video as always! Quick question for ya, would you recommend running them on the same side of the car as the power wire opposite of the rcas and remote wire?
Your whole vehicle is a ground so long as the wire gauge plastic protecting the internal wire is protected then shouldn’t matter.
Thank u
your welcome thanks for watching and subscribing
So my bass amp keeps burning out the ground wire can i put it direct to the negative on the battery? The battery is close to the amp
Make sure it’s 0 gauge OFC Oxygen free copper, short runs, good connection, and rates for amprage of draw.
@@JacobViral2 ok
I fried my alternator wiring harness on my only daily...
First we need to learn the difference between AC current and DC current then give people advice,, if you had a voltage increase by doing this because you had crappy ground somewhere else that's the bottom line
I did the big 3 and now hmm, Im debating. Can I just run one 0awg welding wire back and forth? What size inputs are your double 0 guage feeding?
How much did the big 3 cost?
Did you run multiple positives from the alt to the rear battery? If not why not
I did yes from the front battery. Battery in the front is linked to positive of alt with runs to.
@@JacobViral2where’s the positive on this alternator I’m having issue finding this on my explorer I have the same one ?
@@Astrza- The alternator wire mount post is the positive portion of the alt.
@@JacobViral2 do I have to take the alternator off because the positive wire I thought it was,was the only running to the top on the alternator but it’s black and I don’t wanna put a positive wire on a ground ,so would I have to take the alternator off to find the positive wire ?
@@Astrza- I installed my alt before installing the power wire personally. You can see it in this video. You don't put power anywhere where the casing is obviously. Idk how yours looks but most are the same. Goodluck
Why not just ground the alt to the block from that same block ground run a ground to the body and to the frame. Why extra wire going all the way to the back. Just ground the batteries n the back to the frame and those batteries will b all connected to the front anyways thru the main frame.
Do you have a v6 explorer or v8 how much did your alternator cost or where did you buy it
V6 06 Ford Explorer and I got mine a few years ago for around $500 if I recall
Jacob Viral2 oh ok thank you
I just connected both batteries on the same setup without doing what ur doing 😂 good way to fry your alternator when it’s hot. Don’t do this at all. My batteries from the trunk connect to the front batteries positive and negative 2 20 foot wires and your good
I'm running a taramps 8k I want a dual alternator but I can't find one for 91 f250 7.5l can having to many batteries be detrimental?
One of the biggest alt possible and good battery bank will be just fine for that much power.
@@JacobViral2 ty for the quick reply do you have an email I would love to pick your brain if possible iv came up to some speed bumps and I'm having trouble getting by them?
@@RollingThunder85 no problem. You can reach out to me on Instagram/facebook 'Jacob Viral'. instagram.com/JacobViral
@@JacobViral2 can you drop me a link to get a fairly priced 3g big case alternator
That’s not your chassis or your frame. That’s the body
Pls no CCA!
INDEED!!! NICE VID BRO!!!
And don't suggest using CCA wire in car audio ever it's junk
Bro ive got mine hooked up the same exact way, after 2 or 3 days of not starting my car up my batteries are dead..
Because you're running 2 non identical batteries huh??
I was having a problem with my back battery (an Xs power xp3000) it was killing my starting battery (yellow top optima) kept draining down to 4volts over night...went through like 3-4 batteries that week . Once I took back battery off , it stopped. I charged that car power battery and it’s been resting at 12.7 for like a month how do I know if it’s any good? I kinda feel like I fucked up by just having it ran parallel with it grounded in the back on sheet metal . What do y’all think?
You can keep the setup you have but need to add a battery relay. It keeps the batteries from draining one or the other like what you're experiencing. The relay breaks the power wire circuit when the vehicle isn't on so the rear battery won't drain the front battery. They aren't that much and definitely worth a try. Stinger makes nice ones for decent price or your local auto part shop should have them.
You have to have matching batteries or that will happen getting a relay can help but those optimas are outdated get another XSpower batt and you’ll be just fine. Then get a aftermarket Alternator and you’ll really be able to push bigger amps and stronger subs. BASS ON!!
I just came
could you explain multiple battery systems in a video? ive read its useless unless your playing music with the engine off. ive read that all the batteries need to be same size, cranking amps, etc. ive read that you need battery isolators etc etc. idk anybody who does any of those things nor have i seen much ppl on youtube doing so either. thanks!
I also read the same about running it with the engine off..
If u have Facebook join a car audio page like I just wanna bang or bassheads on a budget. Search in the search bar, you'll find plenty of info
U need a extra battery in a build like his, when u have high powered stuff your cars battery and alternator cant keep up with the power demand , hell I have a rockford p1000bd 1000 watt rms well under rated , that will actually bring my voltage down to 11.7 which is not good on the sub and amp or alternator, you can feel it actually flutter my engine as its robbing power from my car to run proper so in return I need a high output alternator or another battery in the car so I have more power for it to draw from
💪🏼💪🏼
This video is confusing😒😒😒 can you make it simpler by just showing us where the grounds from your Alt are going
Messs