John Deere 60 Teardown - Part 2: Engine Block, Crankcase, Governor, Clutch, & Drawbar Removed
Vložit
- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
- I've spent the last couple weeks making some headway on the 60 teardown. Upon removing the valve cover, rockers, and push rods, I was able to pull the cylinder head and see what kind of mess was waiting inside the bores. Each cylinder was filled with mouse crap, rust, and tar buildup from sitting so many years (and having been run an additional 6000 hours since the first rebuild in 1971). Cleaning the cylinders out revealed minor scoring on the walls and some pitting, which weren't too surprising given the circumstances. Out of curiosity, I pulled the governor housing and placed a 4x4 wood block inside the #1 cylinder. I hit it a few times with a dead blow hammer, which was enough to get the piston moving and break the engine free! I then repeated the process on the #2 cylinder and kept switching back and forth until the crankshaft, pistons, and rods were able to move (somewhat) freely again. Evidently, the cylinders were not as "stuck" as we had initially thought!
When separating the frame casting from the chassis, the engine block had started to split away from the main case. I used the loader to remove the frame casting, then immediately pulled the rod caps and removed the block from the chassis. The #1 piston and rod broke free, but the #2 piston was stuck inside the block and required hammering it out once the block was removed. Upon closer inspection, the crankshaft journals showed some scoring and will need to be turned. After removing the clutch driver with a homemade puller, then removing the pulley, clutch fork assembly, and first reduction gear housing, and tapping on the crankshaft at both ends, I got the main bearing retainers loose and was able to remove the crankshaft. I then took the block, pistons/rods, head, and crankshaft to the local machine shop to be thoroughly cleaned and checked - I am currently waiting to hear back from them regarding how much the crank will need to be turned down, and how far out the block will need to be bored. I am hoping it won't need to be bored wider than .045" so I can rebuild it again in the future if need be. Currently looking for a new set of high-compression M&W-style aluminum pistons that are American-made, but supply seems to be an issue across all vendors right now, so I might be stuck for a while until they return to stock.
After the crankshaft was removed, I pulled the cam and cam follower assembly, and began the never-ending process of flushing 2.5" of sludge and mud out of the bottom of the crankcase (what a mess)...thanks to the advice of Shane, I made a tool to pull the oil filter housing neck/outlet out from the bottom of the crankcase, which worked very well, and then proceeded to remove the oil pressure regulator, lines, and oil pump. These will need to be thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt and I still need to flush the rest of the debris out of the crankcase before it's ready for a Glyptal coating. Having broken one of the three starter mounting bolts off a few years ago when working on the tractor outside, my only option to remove the starter was to hammer it out. It was full of mud and rodent nests due to its exposure to the elements (sitting in the bottom of the tractor over mud with no cover), so it is most likely beyond saving.
I also removed the drawbar assembly (which already had two broken bolts inside the bottom of the final drive housing), and am hoping I can cut off the ugly bracing that was added to it years ago - I'd like to try and reuse the original drawbar if I can save it without cutting away too much material. It's been heat-treated many times in the past (due to welding/torching/cutting), so I have to be careful how far I go with it. I removed the Powr-Trol hydraulic valve assembly as well - like many of these tractors that lived outside, the rusted-out battery box over the years allowed moisture to get down inside the top cover of the valve, and as a result it was full of rust. So it will need to be thoroughly disassembled and cleaned up.
While I wait for the machine shop to get to work on the engine components (sometime within the next month), I plan to continue with the teardown of the transmission, final drive, and PTO. My goal is to have the tractor completely stripped down by the end of this year so I can begin cleanup, wire wheeling, and primer on certain parts. Also trying to build up the patience to get the rear wheel wedges broken loose and get the wheels slid off the axle shafts - that's going to take a lot of time, heat, and penetrating oil, but I'm confident that we can get those wheels off. Everything else I've removed or taken apart on this tractor has been pretty straightforward so far. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Glad to see the progress and how in depth you plan to go in restoring the tractor. It really doesn't look like it's in TOO bad of shape, like you said.
Can only imagine the relief you felt when you broke the engine loose Mike. Been in a similar situation when the engine in my moms 99 blazer locked up a few years ago from a blown head gasket. By the grace of god, we broke it loose AND managed to start the engine without any noise
It was definitely a relief - all things considered, the engine came apart very easily and most of the internals of this tractor have come apart without much of an issue. I'm still amazed overall, I thought I'd be using the rosebud tip on the torch to loosen a lot of the pieces up.
Wow............... that's a crazy amount of work. I found CRC Knock'er Loose Plus Penetrating Solvent spray is the best for loosening rusty parts.
Thanks for the recommendation, I've always been a fan of PB Blaster mostly because of availability, but at this point I'm game to try whatever product can help loosen those wheel wedges.
This was very educational for me, thanks for sharing Mike!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Labor of love, this will be awesome when you’re done 👍😁
Thanks, I certainly hope so! Fixing up old tractors is definitely a labor of love...couldn't agree more.
It’s a working progress but you’re doing great. Great job great video.👍
Thanks Dean!
Defenetly a lot of progress has been made on that 60! Keep up the good work Mike!
Thanks Jon!
@@MichaelTJD60 I meant to ask you but forgot any luck on finding that tractor you had posted about on Facebook?
@@themaniacmower Nope, I've posted it all over FB, craigslist, local newspapers, and driven all over New Jersey trying to find it. No luck yet.
Rust is our worst enemy on these old tractors
That's for sure!
Very cool stuff man. I love seeing the progress!
Thanks Matt!
Stevie wonder welded. I am gonna have to use that one.
@@davemiller1593 or maybe it was Ray Charles...🤔
I made a tool to remove the wheel wedges very easily without heat and without applying pressure against the cast wheel. It slides over the axle and a sledge hammer will knock the wedges out in about 3-4 swings. Let me know if your interested and I will give you more info on it
I'm definitely interested - I've tried just about everything to remove the wedges at this point. One wheel came right off when I tightened the jack bolts down, but the other wheel won't budge.
@@MichaelTJD60 Ok the best way to explain how the tool looks go to youtube and type in "I was able to move the rear wheels on my John Deere 3020 Tractor! Here's how!! " Now you want to purchase a piece of pipe that is at least 1/8" to 1/4" larger than the diameter of the axle. I made mine 14" long. Then weld a plug the diameter or slightly larger than the pipe on one end of the pipe. Then cut a half piece off the other end of the pipe that is 1" to 1 1/2" deep. Make sure the pipe and plug is schedule 40 pipe. Schedule 80 will work but you will have to mill 1/8" off the thickness of the pipe so it will fit correctly. Then lift the tire off the ground and turn the cast wheel so the outside bolts are on the bottom wedge of the wheel. Remove all 5 bolts and slide the tool onto the axle with the uncut half of the pipe against the bottom wedge. Make sure the pipe is level and is only against the the bottom wedge. Then hit the end of the pipe with a sledge hammer 4-5 times or until the wedge pops out . Penetrating oil isn't going to help much as the wedges are in tight and the fluid won't penetrate in far enough. Once the wedge pops out you can just tap the other wedge out when you take the bolts out. My adjusting bolt was froze solid and after the wheel was removed I used an air hose and blew out the dust and dirt around the gear then sprayed penetrating oil all around inside the slot. I used an impact wrench and penetrating oil and worked the bolt back and forth until the adjusting gear moved freely. The wedges on my 60 were in solid and it took 3 swings on one side and 4 swings with the sledge hammer on the other side for them to pop out. This is the easiest way I have found to remove the wedges and it won't damage your tractor. Let me know what you think and how it works out for you
@@johnleonhardt4570 Thanks for the excellent advice - I will have to get some pipe and give it a try. The wedge, rack and pinion design works great when the tractor is being used and the wheels are being adjusted somewhat regularly, but when the tractor has been sitting for 30+ years it's a different story. I'm not much of a believer in penetrating oil for these situations - it's proven ineffective for removing the rear wheels so far.
very nice job, what are you going to paint the inside of the crankcase with?
Glyptal. It will act as a sealer.
@@MichaelTJD60 thanks, I couldn't find it due to the spelling.
Im restoring a '55 50 that was sitting for 15 years and its better condition internally than yours. I wasnt planning on it but i think ill do a total teardown and replace all the bearings and whatnot. You mentioned your in lancaster county, im not far from you near Allentown.
It's definitely worth the extra time and labor to replace the bearings and seals. Last thing you would want after painting and finishing the tractor would be having to tear it back down again to replace a bad bearing or seal. Especially if it was sitting that long. Is your 50 a vegetable tractor by chance (long axles, single front wheel, etc)? Been looking for my grandfather's 50 that he had in New Jersey years ago...no idea where it ended up.
No it's not. It has a rollamatic and I knew the last 2 owners that had owned it for the last 40 years. It stayed within 5 miles of my house for its life and was the first tractor I remembered seeing as a child.
@@levibridge9515 Gotcha. It's great that you know the history on it and have known it for a long time...makes owning and restoring it that much more fun.
What machine shop are you using? Wengers quoted 600 apiece for redoin the head and block.
@@levibridge9515 Spring Garden Repair, near Gap/Parkesburg area. I haven't been given a bill yet but I know it's going to be hefty since they are boring the block, redoing the head and valves, and grinding the crank. They've done two-cylinder engines for years since there are so many Amish farmers in this area still using them.
thanks for another great vid! Question, I know you're against "repowering" an Onan garden tractor but i simply do not have anytime to rebuild 2 19.9hp onan motors. I bought two nicely restored suburbans but the motors were not touched and i think one needs a valve adjustment and the other needs something else as it smokes and leaks oil a little bit. they both run but i dont want to run them til i fix them. i also dont want to toss them! im willing to let them go for next to nothing .. please let me know if you might know someone who is interested if you are not.
im in the middle of building a house, shop, and having a kid, it would be years before i could have the time to fix them as much as i would love too!
thanks in advance for any thoughts or advice!
Where are you located? I might be interested depending.
@@MichaelTJD60 near sacramento california. and as another option i would also be interested in paying to have you rebuild them for me and i would of course pay for the rebuild and shipping !?
@@WorknDirt Yikes, opposite end of the country. I honestly am not the best person to ask for a rebuild as it would take me a very long time to do them the right way, plus I think shipping them all the way across the country (twice) would be too risky. I would recommend reaching out to these guys in Illinois who have a long history rebuilding Onan's - they will make sure it is done right, they stock all new parts for them, and the shipping cost would be less. www.enginemastersinc.com/onanrebuilding/onanrebuilding.htm
@@MichaelTJD60 ok thanks mike, greatly appreciated! keep up the great vids!!!