How to Build a Premium Speaker Cable
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- čas přidán 27. 05. 2018
- Do you want to know how to make a high-quality speaker cable at a fraction of the price?
Well, you're in luck because today we're building an awesome speaker cable so watch and learn!
What you'll need:
- 1x length of unbalance instrument cable
- 2x male ¼” (6.3mm) mono phone plugs
- 1x an equal or slightly greater length of Techflex
What I'm using:
- Mediabridge 14AWG 4-Conductor Speaker Wire (www.amazon.com/dp/B0193RRSP0)
- Expanding Banana Plug (www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...)
- 1/2" Techflex (www.amazon.com/dp/B071WF5NTN)
- 1/4" Techflex (www.amazon.com/dp/B071QZ4ZS2)
- Shrink Tubing (www.amazon.com/dp/B075NBCDPQ)
- Wire Cutter (www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...)
- Wire Stripper (www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...)
- Soldering Iron (www.amazon.com/dp/B01DGZFSNE)
- Scissors (www.amazon.com/dp/B000P0LNRE)
- Pliers (www.amazon.com/dp/B0001IW892)
- Gaffer's Tape (www.amazon.com/dp/B00GZE3UJ8)
- Liquid Rosin Flux (www.amazon.com/dp/B00GZE3UJ8)
- Solder (www.amazon.com/dp/B00030AP48)
- Gator/Croc Clip stand (www.amazon.com/dp/B01961086E)
- Heat Gun (www.amazon.com/dp/B004Q04X44)
- Silicone Mat (www.amazon.com/dp/B06X97Y379)
My Friend B. Sea's CZcams Channel: / @bseamusic
Let me know what else you'd like to see. I have a dozen or so more videos in the pipeline so please Click SUBSCRIBE to help support this channel.
Remember: don't be fool by snake oil spewing companies that want you to believe you need to spend a small fortune for premium cables. - Věda a technologie
Mind Blown! 🤯 I don’t even need this cable but I wish I did just so I can make it lol. You bodied this video. Super easy to follow and informative.
Thank you!
Great video. Love the professional look of the tech flex and heat shrink on the cables. Was easily able to follow your steps and order the right parts for the job.
As someone who deals with wire every day at work here are some ideas.
-It is unnecessary to use 4 lead cabling. It would be cheaper and more beneficial to use 2 conductor cabling of a higher gauge.
-Use something hot to cut the flex tubing and heat the ends up to melt them and keep them from fraying. If it frays when you shrink the heat shrink, it can punch through and look bad. If it can punch through the tubing, it can punch through the wire's insulation.
-Use something to fish the cable through the flex tubing, it's quicker than manually stretching it and relaxing it.
-You don't need to solder the end for a screw terminal, in fact it's detrimental to do so. Solder is hard, copper is soft.
-Strip longer and fold it over for a better connection.
soldering the end of the cables can protect them from oxidation (especially in high humidity) BUT it does require a few rounds of re-tightening over time... as the solder is rigid, moving the cable loosens that screw - soldered cable connection.
so yeah, soldering this type of connection can in fact work against you...
If I mght Add :
Instead of soldering, use some higly conductive Silver past in the plug, this will prevent oxidation, and provide excellent contact.
Fold back the Techflex inwards, this will always provide a clean edge.
This video is much, much better than your other video on the same topic that you produced several months ago. I learned a lot. Your class was very interesting and informative.Thank you.
Thank you for the kind words.
The first video was a live stream. I underestimated how difficult it would be without the magic of editing. I was also very nervous. 😉 thanks again. There will be more to come on various topic.
Very informative and professionally edited video. Perfect paced video and very much appreciate your attention to detail like the parts list with URLs in your notes. Keep up the great work. I'll keep watching.
Thank you so much! I’m glad you liked it.
Comprehensive, thanks for absorbing the cost to identify the correct size shrink and expandable jacket
Thank you for the kind words. I’m glad you like it. 🙂
Love making speaker wire! My new hobby
Nice Job!! This was a very fine, comprehensive instructional video. Kudos and congratulations to you.
Thank you. I’m glad you like it. 🙂
7:08 I think making tip hard and not even prevents good contact inside a plug.
I suggest soldering only wire butt and 1-2mm along the wire. This way the wire stays flexible and it can have better contact with the plug with much more surface.
Just what I needed. Thank you, good sir!
You’re very welcome! 🙂
Fantastic job. I like this video short and concise, and provide useful links.
Thank you. I’m glad you liked it. 🙂
Thank you👍 Very easy and straightforward instructions 👌
Thank you. I’m glad you liked it. 🙂
Superb information shared👍
The more cables I shield the quieter my room becomes. In fact I just finished shielding my HDMI cables and lo and behold the room become slightly quieter yet again.
When I took the punt and swapped my audioquest black lab sub leads for the more expensive chord shawline sub leads, it was as if I was hearing my Rel subwoofers for the first time!
"Quality cables don't necessary make speakers sound better but what they do provide, is best possible path for your speakers to sound their best"
Simple and clean! Digging it the most! Sinn Fein Byrne
the cable separation can be made better and more noble than with a shrink tube. great plug I also made my cables with it
Excellent! I think these would be super expensive if you were to buy them in a store. Thanks for the great video, I’m subscribing.
Thanks for the kind words and support. I was striving for an great build quality and a decent aesthetic without busting the bank. 🙂
That was awesome! Thank you!
Thank you. I’m glad you liked it.
Good video and nice looking end product. You may want to revisit the proper method for soldering those wires. What you ended up with was a cold solder. I agree tinning the tip but you should apply the solder iron on the bottom and let the rosen assist in pulling the solder into the wire strands.
He does say “counter to convention”, but I’m not sure why he suggests that method in this case...
Man you make it look easy and beautiful at the same time I will be watching again I have some XLR to build.
Thank you. I’m glad you liked it. 🙂
I recommend not using techflex for XLR. It may produce undesirable microphonics in certain situations.
en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microphonics
@@JackofAllTech Thanks for the advice but this is for interconnects. For my amps EQ, Xover etc. But I will take what
Great video 👍🏻 I’m going to have to give this a go myself
Thank you, I’m glad you liked it. 🙂
Let me know how it went!
Great Video! You couldn't of made it any easier.
Thank You
Thank you. I’m glad you liked it!
Stay tuned I have a boat load more content coming soon. 🙂
Thanks for the GREAT video and parts list. Best one I've seen after scouring youtube for several days for a good walk through. 100000% better than others I've seen. Voice is very pleasant to listen to, instructions were clear and easy to follow. Cant Thumbs up this video enough. Soooooo well done.
I was wandering why, in all of these videos, no one seems to use wire pants, which in my opinion give such a great look.
I'm specifically trying to find WHITE wire pants to go with my white tech flex... cant seem to find them ANYWHERE.
Thank you for the kind words!
You are right in that there aren’t many videos out there that feature wire pants (AKA wire boots). In my opinion, there’s nothing wrong with wire pants - it’s just a matter of personal choice. I went with shrink tubing because, aesthetically, I personally like a more matte look and wire pants are generally glossy.
I did a little (quick) research, and you are right, white wire pants are a bit of a unicorn. I suggest broadening your search to include “speaker wire boots” in addition to “speaker wire pants” because when I searched, I found a couple of options. Here’s one I found on eBay - though I can’t endorse this seller because it was just a random search and I’m not sure if this is even the right size: www.ebay.com/itm/4pcs-white-9mm-Speaker-HIFI-Cable-Audio-Wire-Pants-Boots-Y-splitter-Pant-1-TO-2/153232081924
My only (wild) hypothesis for why white wire pants are so rare is (maybe) there’s a concern about them yellowing over time - but that’s a huge stretch, so I doubt it.
Thanks again and good luck with your search!
@@JackofAllTech - that's a good point about them potentially yellowing. I didn't even think about that. OMG Thanks for the link!!! That's perfect! and for tip about the name as well.
I subbed to your channel. Hope for more quality videos like this in the future. Merry Christmas ;)
Thanks for the sub! Merry Christmas!
Brilliant video 👍🏻
Thank you! I’m glad you liked it.
I DID build my own. They wanted $200 Each for Snake-Oil Cables. I Got Two 10 Ft lengths of Jacketed 4 Conductor 12 Gage, OFC Tinned with Silver for $15 Each. Lil shrink Tubing + Banana Plugs (which I had) -- couple Hours time and I had Great Performing Mains Cables for Under $20 Each.
Excelente vídeo explicado al detalle, felicidades es uno de los mejores que he visto hasta hoy, de como hacer un diy de cable premium para speakers , saludos afectuosos de México
Muchas gracias por sus amables palabras.
parfait
great video, how aboout xlr balance speaker cable ?
Thank you for the parts list.
You are very welcome. 🙂
Fantastic job thanks
Thank you. I’m glad you liked it. 🙂
Great video!
Thank you!
Nice tutorial. Subbed.
Thank you! I’m glad you liked it. 🙂
Nice job!!
Thank you! I’m glad you enjoyed it. 🙂
Can make stereo rca 2 in and 2 out with 3core wire?
Vidéo très instructive, merci!
De rien
Looks good👍
Thank you! I’m glad you liked it. 🙂
Awesome video thanks so much 👍🎶👍👍👍
I’m so glad you liked it. Thank you!
@@JackofAllTech Very welcome
I don't get why we solder. Wouldn't that negate the properties of the copper wire?
Fantastic video. You have a new subscriber! May I ask if you have a plan to show how to build a high quality XLR cable for hifi interconnects ? Some of the fancy name brands are crazy expensive. I'm sure you could get something equally high quality for a lot less money!
Thank you for the kind words. I do plan on making an XLR video. I’ve already purchased the materials. It’s currently slotted 4th in my list of videos. In 2019 I’m going all in on this channel so you can expect more videos and less time between. I’m very excited.
Nice video lots of informations abouat speaker cable
Thank you. 🙂
hi. What is the diameter of the speaker cable?
Yeah, I got that you said that, but you might’ve very briefly explained why, you’d do something “counter to convention.” No biggie. Good looking finished product.
That’s great feedback. I didn’t think of that. Thanks again.
Lots of great advise, however pre-tinning or soldering wire that goes into a mechanicaly secured (set screws) is considered poor practice and may compromise the connection.
Outstanding video, but I have one question. @ the 9:59 mark, it appears that the Black and White wired are no longer "coiled/twisted" during the soldering process. It "appears" that you don't re-twist them before you mount the banana clip.
Q: Do the wires "not" need to be twisted prior to mounting the banana clip? - If "No", then what was the purpose of twisting them at the beginning of the demonstration?
Thanks for such an excellent tutorial. Cheers!
Great catch!
I’ll start by addressing what twisting does and why it would can be important and why it may not.
Theoretically, twisting helps with Electro-Magnetic Interference (EMI).
In practice (and for most people), it will generally have a negligible impact on performance because most typically household EMI is not strong enough to matter. To put it another way, a cable would have to be run very close to a strong source of EMI (think high voltage box) for it to affect the audio signal.
Incidentally, this particular cable has a slight twist internally - inside the casing.
Now, with regard to the video, I put a twist on it, mainly, for aesthetics reason.
Another option I believe I mentioned (I don’t recall) is, forgoing the Techflex and leave it naked exposing the twists. For some that might be more aesthetically pleasing as well.
In short, it was an oversight in editing. Functionally negligible - you can safely choose either option.
Thanks again for the feedback!
Very nice video. Not too much unnecessary bla-bla, to the point and precise. Question: Why 4 wires instead of two thicker ones?Thanks.
Thank you! I’m glad you liked it. 🙂
Good question. It’s mainly for cost. 2x 14AWG wires effectively make an 11AWG wire. If you don’t mind the cost, buying a thicker gauge is totally fine.
I originally live streamed myself making a pair of these (not a great video) and in it, I was showing how to make a cheaper version of Blue Jeans cables’ “Canare 4S11 Speaker Cable” (dual 14AWG cable) - which at the time I paid $53 for. My version was about $15 without the fancy wrappings and under $20 with them.
Great, thank you so much! Let me please clarify to understand this correctly. You only twist the last six inches of each end? Not the whole length of the wire? Thanks and Cheers, Mario, Dragon Quartz Audiophile
Thank you, I’m glad you liked it! The twisting is mainly for esthetics so it’s up to you. While this brand of cable does have a twist, it’s only a slight twist so not twisting the ends should not have a meaningful impact.
Just in case you want to bi-wire later?
How to make a diy ic preamp
Great video!
Short, concise and to the point details.
Have you noticed an improvement in the sound reproduction from your stereo?
It would be good to link a before vs after comparison of your stereo sound from using these cables.
Thanks for sharing!
I’m glad you enjoyed it and that’s a great idea! I’ll keep that in mind for future videos.
I replace a set of $100s Blue Jeans cables because I needed a longer run than I did in my old place. I wouldn’t say they sounds better and I wouldn’t say it sounds worse. They sound the same - which is what I was hoping/expecting. The old cables were a premium grade so I’m happy that these were good stand-ins.
FWIW, the receiver is a decent one (Denon AVR-X6400H about $2K) powering decent speakers (Revel Concerta 2s).
Hello there. Could you please quickly guide me with Techflex. If I am going with 12AWG 4 conductor what size (1/2') Techflex I would require??
What’s the diameter of the cable? It should be equal or slightly smaller (TechFlex expands).
Fantastic video, I'm going to give this a whirl. I will be making two x 5 metre cables and three x 2 metre cables currently for a 100w Onkyo receiver and Monitor Audio Silver speakers.
If I wanted to step down thickness to the 16AWG, are there any of the extras I would need to downsize and would this still be considered a 'Premium Speaker Cable'?
Many Thanks.
Thank you! I’m glad you enjoyed it.
You can absolutely step down the thickness for short runs. The determining factor here is length and electrical resistance. Assume an 8 ohm load you can comfortably run 16 gauge oxygen-free copper wire up to 6.096 meters (20ft). This drops with 6 or 4 ohm load.
With regard to extras, I’d say no, you don’t need any. What you will need to be aware of is the size of the Techflex and shrink wrap you’ll need.
Finally with regard to being a “premium” cable, this is a two part answer. There’s the premium “look and feel.” The Techflex etc. give it that “premium” look. I put that in quotes because it superficial and subjective. Everyone’s tastes are different - and that’s okay. 🙂 With regard to premium grading of the cable, that’s a factor of the cable itself as well as it’s gauge. Avoid aluminum clad copper like the plague and stick to 99.9% oxygen-free copper. Everything else is negligible - including the plugs. The Wirecutter has a review of plugs where they took some measurements. You can check out that review for more info.
Hope this was helpful and thanks again.
Thank you for getting back to me and for your advice. I didn’t realise I could get so excited about cables. I’ve subscribed to your channel now and look forward to following you.
Many Thanks
Andrew
Your very welcome and thank you!
Quick question. I just bought 2-wire 12 AWG in-wall speaker cable. Why did you get a 4-wire and join 2 of them. Will this make a better speaker wire from the 12AWG cable? Great video, thanks for posting!
Great question and thank you for the kind words!
I neglected to mention the reason for this approach - sorry about that. Joining 2 14-AWG cable will effectively make it ~11-AWG without paying the price of 11-AWG cable and, depending upon the cable, be less stiff and easier to terminate.
Here’s a great reference: www.audioholics.com/audio-video-cables/speaker-cable-gauge
There is a complaint about soldering, when you solder cables (or something else), the tip of the soldering iron should be thicker than the solder object itself (this is the law of heat transfer) - then the soldering will take place quickly and the solder will lie flat / beautiful.
Great, thanks, you might not need the banana plug at all ;)
what size techflex would i need for normal 16ga speaker wire (the flat kind that just looks like a lamp cord)
Not sure actually. It’s hard to say because the jacket adds to its size. You’d have to measure it and find one that matches the diameter. It can also be slightly smaller because Techflex stretches. I used trial and error for mine.
@@JackofAllTech ok thanks
Why did you aplied sother to whole naked copper? Copper is much betther conductor. Would be just enough to apply sother just to the tip of it?
Good question. It's an extra protective measure against corrosion. It really depends on where you live but and the relative humidity but it doesn't hurt to do it. You can read more about that here: sciencing.com/tinned-copper-wire-5879934.html
Apart from looks, does that techflex have any benefit in sound or noise reduction?
Zero, feel free to omit it.
why is better 4 conductor version and twist, instead of 2 conductor (traditional) ?
Good question. It’s mainly for cost. 2x 14AWG wires effectively make an 11AWG wire. If you don’t mind the cost, buying a thicker gauge is totally fine.
I originally live streamed myself making a pair of these (not a great video) and in it, I was showing how to make a cheaper version of Blue Jeans cables’ “Canare 4S11 Speaker Cable” (dual 14AWG cable) - which at the time I paid $53 for. My version was about $15 without the fancy wrappings and under $20 with them.
Hi jack, i have little speaker 2inch with amp 15watt for DIY product.. I'm confuse to choose the best speaker cable to use it.. Please give advise me what the best type cable for my DIY
There’s a lot to unpack here.
What kind of connector?
How long does the cable have to be?
What will you use this with?
As much information you can share the better.
@@JackofAllTech the cable just 15cm my speaker box just for a bluetooth box product speaker..
The only difference i would do is get prebuild cable on loan, teet which one you prefer, and then by the cable separately (and then diy). Speaker cables DO sound differently, so it matters which you choose. By building them yourself you save a lot of money for sure. Hundreds, literally
subd and liked. can you explain why each cable is made of 2 cables twisted together?
Thank you and absolutely! Using 2x 14 gauge cables together will effectively make an 11 gauge cable without the incurring the cost of a lower gauge cable or sacrificing quality. You can read about it here: www.audioholics.com/audio-video-cables/speaker-cable-gauge - which is better for longer runs and less stiff than a 10 gauge cable.
@@JackofAllTech What about twisting? What purpose does this serve? - Reduces interference maybe?
Sorry, totally forgot to answer that. Twisting is mostly aesthetic here. If the entire length were to be twisted it would help with interference more. Check out Audioholics’ site. They have a good article on making cables and go into the science of interference and how twisting affects the signal.
Great video, good work, but you should NEVER tin a cables end, when you'r going to fix it with srcews: the solder will not remain stable and the screws will eventually loosen. Crimping with ferrules is then the better solution...
Does it matter if you choose to twist the white + green and red + black together? or white + black and red + green?
It doesn't matter so long as you twist the same colors together at the other end of the cable.
Like @YLR2312 said, what colors you choose to pair together are completely arbitrary. Just make sure to match your choices at the other end of the cable otherwise your signal may be out of phase or worse you may short out your system.
Even the twisting itself is optional. It’s mostly an esthetic choice. The important thing is keeping the colors in sync with each other so that your carrying the positive and negative signals to the corresponding positive and negative terminals.
Good luck!
Can you make one for me?
Why aren’t you use end tubes instead of solder the wire ends?
Not sure I understand. Could you explain or provide a link to an example?
Where can I get all these stuffs
Hi, check the description.
How do I make these for standard rca or your black & red spring type connector on the back of my speakers Excuse my ignorance for I had Cancer and chemo did a job on my brain cells, I just want a nice speaker hookup for my turn table ... Great video just subscribed
I’m so sorry to hear that. I hope you’re recovering and getting healthier.
Could you describe what connection your speaker has? Maybe link a photo? We can take it from and figure out what works best for you.
@@JackofAllTech I have many speakers to choose from mostly vintage Marantz/ Sansui some have the Standard ol school speaker plug connections and some have neg / pos spring type where you lift the red/ black tab insert your wire Can I use your speaker wire set up for that type of speaker but just leave the wires bare and on the old school speaker jacks can I just add the speaker wire ends just like you did with your Banana jacks
You can absolutely add whatever ends work best for your speakers - including leaving them bare. I’d recommend tinning them to prevent oxidation but it’s up to you. The most important point is getting a tight connection with whatever approach you decide.
Can this be done with the swell deadbolt banana plugs
Depends on the diameter of the opening. I’ll pickup a set and give it a try and get back to you.
@akabaconator - I ordered a set and will shoot a quick how to next weekend for you if I can make it work.
@@JackofAllTech awesome thank you for taking the time to do so
can some one explain how this cable is any better then the one id buy from walmart ? cuz i dont see it its not like the wire it self is made up of silver or any thing of that nature it just doesnt logically make any sense ?> the connectors maybe but you can just buy a gold tipped connector again from walmart.
If your Walmart cable is made from 99.9% oxygen free copper and a decent gauge - then no, it’s not better. That’s actually the point of this video - which is not to spend hundreds of dollars on pretty looking snake oil cables which make a ton of non-scientific claims.
The aim of the video is to help you achieve the same visual aesthetics as the overpriced cables at a fraction of the cost. Most Walmart-type cables aren’t visually appealing but if the look doesn’t bother you then I’d go right ahead and buy them. Again, just make sure it’s 99.9% oxygen free copper. A lot of cheap cables out there are copper clad aluminum. That stuff is garbage - especially for long runs.
FWIW, I mentioned this a few times in the comments but I don’t mind repeating myself because it’s important.
Bi-wiring a 14 gauge 4 wire gives performance close to 11 gauge, just curious why not use 10 Gauge 2 wire?
What do you think about this?
www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Cable-Pants-2-Conductor/dp/B0009XQPFC
You are correct! I chose 14 because it’s more affordable. My aim was to produce a quality product while keeping cost low - but you could absolutely use 10 gauge wire.
Cable pants are a great option as well. It’s really a matter of personal preference and aesthetics.
@@JackofAllTech Thanks, and great video, came to your channel from your first video on DIY wire, great presentation and explanation.
Thank for the kind words. I have a ton of content ideas and project in the pipeline. Stay tuned. 🙂
what would be the rough total cost for one cable?
trying to decide if its worth buying all the equipment or if im better off just buying some second hand cables lol
No worries. I have a few questions:
How long do you want the cable to be?
Do you have any equipment (at all) outlined in the beginning of the video?
Do you care about the look or just want the function? I ask because you can save more money if you forego the fancy wrap and locking banana plugs - by leaving it “naked” and use non-locking plugs.
FWIW, I modeled the build after Bluejeans cable and evolved it from there with Techflex and such. If you buy - buy from a company the uses 99.9% oxygen-free cooper and not copper-clad aluminum.
Based on your answer, I can give you a rough estimate of your cost if you were to build it yourself.
Jack of All Tech wouldnt need the cable to be longer than 1.5m, ive got an old soldering iron and wirecutters, i could probably use a hairdryer instead of a heatgun, i would need to buy everything else though
Sorry for the delay Jack y, I was trying to source (and price) the cheapest thing you could build yourself, but unfortunately, it is only cost-effective if you are going to make at least 25 feet (7.62 meters) worth of cable (i.e., 2 cables of typical length is usually enough). Most of the parts can only be ordered in quantities of 25ft or less. Though, you can buy a premium cable brand (Canare) by the foot (relatively cheap) here: www.redco.com/Canare-4S11.html Incidentally, this is the same cable used by Blue Jeans Cable for their 4-wire 14 gauge speaker cable - which is what inspired this video.
If you are looking to buy the cable outright, checkout MonoPrice's 6-foot cable (1.8 meters) here for about USD 16 (EUR 13,75): www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=13913 It uses oxygen-free copper cable but since it is a single cable it's effective speaker gauge will only be 14-AWG but that's fine for such a short run.
I hope this helps. Good luck!
Tinning/soldering the wires and then put it into a screw/crimp connector is very bad for the conductivity. The contact area is greatly reduced.
Is soldering really needed?
No, it's not needed. It helps create a solid connection and prevent oxidation. You can absolutely skip it but I suggest cutting a little longer so when it does oxides you can cut and redo it.
@@JackofAllTech Thanks. I don't have all the equipment for soldering so that would make this project significantly more expensive. Great video, I think you should've mentioned that this was optional though.
I hated those plugs, the only good thing was that they would not fall out but they had lots of movement because the banana plug is thin and felt like there was very little metal to metal contact going on in the jack portion except for the small contact part of the plug(tip only) that would spread, if you like a stiffer connection with more metal to metal contact then don't bother with this style banana plugs.
Good video, but that is not the best way to solder. Heat the wire and apply the solder to the wire not the tip. Tin the tip prior, however. In this case, you're actually not getting optimum contact by soldering since you are tightening a set screw, the solder wont conform to the screw. For this application I would recommend wire ferrules, they will conform to the screw and crimp onto the wire for complete contact.
RE: solder, yeah they say that but that can also melt the surrounding materials. They also say that doing it my way doesn't create a good solder joint but that's not true. You can see it's nice and shiny and I've hung a 5-pound weight off solder joints like this so it all boils down to technique.
RE: screw, maybe. This was inspired by a Bluejeans cable I own. They welded it on. LOL
if not bare wire, then ferrules like you said!
Why the solder?
Good question. It's an extra protective measure against corrosion. It really depends on where you live but and the relative humidity but it doesn't hurt to do it. You can read more about that here: sciencing.com/tinned-copper-wire-5879934.html
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Meh i tend to just leave the cables bare, I myself am very much a stickler when it comes to cable management, thus I go out of my for as little of it to show as possible, so I myself tend to leave it bare as the heatshrink and tech flex are just for astheticts
Yeah, I can understand that. Most of my cables are bare wire. This was an experiment inspired by some Bluejeans cables I own. I didn't want to shell out so much again. I used them for my center channel since it's exposed and wanted it to look nice. I'd love to hear about your cable management techniques. I've seen some impressive cable management. There's a subreddit called cable porn that's impressive: www.reddit.com/r/cableporn/
Hi,
I was delighted to watch your video. We have developed a great audio cable and we wanna invite you to review it. If you are interesting, please reply to us.
Thank you
Plugs in speakers cables are not important if you have a 3way terminal on your speaker. Use the bare cable to terminate to the speaker or amplifier if possible. The less High Resistance points, the better. If you have to use plugs or spades, get better quality ones that have less pitting. Research this.
It's a soldering iron. Not a paintbrush. Hold the iron against the wire and allow the heat to pull the solder through for a proper solder joint. Not sure why you used 4-conductor wire to make a 2-conductor speaker wire either. Otherwise, well done video.
Using 2x 14 gauge cables together will effectively make an 11 gauge cable without the incurring the cost of a lower gauge cable or sacrificing quality. You can read about it here: www.audioholics.com/audio-video-cables/speaker-cable-gauge - which is better for longer runs and less stiff than a 10 gauge cable.
please do not solder the speaker wire. this makes it hard & not pliable for BOTH of the banana jack set screws to make good contact. the lower set screw is not for anchoring the speaker wire jacket.
Or use any old twin strand power cable strip an inch off the ends and tin with solder. You could not tell any sound difference in a blind test…….spend the money you save on beer.
100% correct. It's completely unnecessary - purely aesthetics but some folks like the "premium" look so this video helps them learn how it's done. The only objectively premium thing here is the cable - 99.9% oxygen-free copper.
Get a wire with best kind of copper.
100% correct. Everything else is completely unnecessary - purely aesthetics but some folks like the "premium" look so this video helps them learn how it's done. The only objectively premium thing here is the cable - 99.9% oxygen-free copper.
Companies like Audioquest, Wireworld, and Kimber don't want you to watch videos like this...
LOL - you’re probably right. 😉
Not even close to a realistic statement. This is just a video on how to make another average speaker cable. Nothing more.
@@carlosoliveira-rc2xt then show us how to make a better one, moron
Nice and clean build, that must be said. It shows a properly made speaker wire.
But....The connection between the output transformer (either on a PCB or hand soldered wire) and the speaker out is only a fraction of the thickness of your cable and probably of a lesser quality.
There is no need for "high quality" cable between the output and a speaker since it doesn't improve how the speaker will sound.
Current and resistance works just the same as how water flows through a hose/pipe. Attaching a low pressure hose/pipe (with a bigger diameter) AFTER a high pressure hose/pipe doesn't lower the pressure of the overall system. It allows for the same amount of water to flow trough etc.
"Quality" speaker wire ... a myth.
At least don't buy speaker cable worth hundreds of dollars/euro's/lira's etc. EVER...
why use the techflex at all , it adds nothing to the sound quality.
100% correct. It's completely unnecessary - purely aesthetics but some folks like the "premium" look so this video helps them learn how it's done. The only objectively premium thing here is the cable - 99.9% oxygen-free copper.
You should never tin wires that you are going to screw, heat expansion and contraction will weaken the connection over time
This cable is overkill... You don't need 2 wires each channel... Maybe unless you are pumping more than 3kW each ...
Never put solder on iron then iron to wire,always heat wire t
Solder strait to wire
Yeah, they say that but that can also melt the surrounding materials. They also say that doing it my way doesn't create a good solder joint but that's not true. You can see it's nice and shiny and I've hung a 5-pound weight off of solder joints like this so it all boils down to technique.
Talk about over kill!!
Glad you liked it! 😜
I hate when people don't know the difference between silicon and silicone.
LOL, as a software engineer I do know the difference - it’s just a typo. I’ll fix it shortly.
You may want to use 2 conductor wire, unless you really want both of your speakers that close! (inb4 bi-amp'ing - only an idiot would do that off one amp/avr/receiver)
Not bi-amping and not running both speaker through one set of cables so not sure what the concern is. This is to effectively get 11AWG for less $ and more flexibility. This is modeled after BlueJean’s Canare 4S11 cable and the advice of Audioholics.
That’s not how you solder wires.
Yep, agreed! It’s not, that’s why I say “contrary to convention.” I find that it covers better this way when using rosin flux.
Convention is to apply the iron to the wire, heat it and then have the solder make contact with the wire. I find that burn the rosin and you’re left with burnt brown solder joint. This is truer the thicker the gauge you use.
Your free to do it the conventional way if you like - it’s just my preference.
Thanks for the feedback.
@@JackofAllTech Why would you need to solder, and would this work without soldering? Thanks.
The soldering is to prevent oxidation and to provide better contact but no, you don’t have to.
@@JackofAllTech Hmm... I'm not a electrician. But, would introducing solder iron provide better contact?
Correct
"Snake oil" is such a ridiculous trope. Isn't "premium" an antithesis to "snake oil" to begin with? You can't accuse 3rd party cables of being "snake oil" and dare to suggest that your DYI is premium and not "snake oil." The fact that you have those fancy meshes, gold plating, and carbon fiber on the connector are triggers for calling "premium" cables as "snake oil."
About the only viable argument that exists is whether or not the COST of those "snake oil," "premium cables" are worth the gains they give you. I am pretty sure if someone on this forum asked you to build THEM a pair of your non-snake oil, "Premium" speaker cables, you will charge them the cost of the parts only, right? No way you'd charge more for your time and effort, right? If you charged more money than the cost of the parts to make it...does that suddenly make your cable "snake oil?"
Understand this, if anything else. Conductivity and signal strength is at the very heart of what you're trying to achieve. If better cable geometry or better conductive materials are what help you do that, then it isn't "snake oil." Otherwise, you could just cut your entire video short and simply buy JUST the Mediabridge 14 Awg wire and call it a day.
tl;dr
Premium in this video has two dimensions - cable quality and aesthetics. Snake oil refers to Co. applying pseudoscience, not to reputable Co. earning an honest buck. Net-rage misplaced.
Long-form
Haha, your passion is commendable, but some of your arguments are flawed, and that passion is misplaced. Snake oil was, in fact, a real thing. A little homework is in order, but I won't waste time rehashing its entire history here, so Wikipedia is your friend.
Despite its origin, the term is drawn from a period where "Snake Oil Salesmen" would sell concoctions in the guise of medicine. The modern relevance here is cable companies adding all sorts of contraptions (e.g., batteries, etc.) to a cable and charging hundreds of dollars for them. There's nothing wrong with making money by charging for your hard work, but there's definitely something wrong with making false claims of improvements to sound and charging a small fortune for those lies - in fact, it's illegal.
Concerning the word "premium" in the video, the only material/objectively premium thing in it is the quality of the cable: 99.9% oxygen-free copper as opposed to copper clad tin. With respect to the (subjective) aesthetics, then the other components are lower-cost alternative window dressing. Said window dressing gives it (subjectively) a premium look. That's it - no more - no less.
Now your fictitious and contrived argument about me making a cable for someone charging for parts and labor is a fallacy or false argument. See previous paragraphs and the following.
This video is targeted at someone looking for quality (hence premium - see the previous definition) cables but does not want to shell out a ton of cash. They may also be interested in replicating the look and feel of a genuinely premium cable from a reputable company (looking at you Bluejeans) and either don't want to shell out so much for the aforementioned labor or just likes to tinker and want to try and make it themselves - for funsies. Hence, the parts listed are all low-cost but quality parts.
It's clear you are not the target audience for this video, and that's okay. If your time is better spent elsewhere, then, by all means, I encourage you to buy your cables. Again, Bluejeans is a fantastic company making fantastic cables. In fact, this build was inspired by one of their cables - which I actually own and use.
You didn't even cryotreat it
🤣😂
waste of time and money. The only thing that matters is the gauge for bass response. Just buy 14 gauge from Monoprice
Clearly didn’t watch or you’d realize that’s what I’m essentially saying. LOL
That shrinktube packaging is a joke. What a waste of plastic. I can buy it in 1m lengths without any fucking packaging as it doesn't need any.
Agreed.
what a load of rubbish, you're taking a cheap low quality cable and wrapping it in heat shrink and braid. This is not a premium cable it is a cable covered in braid to look hi-end.. much like most chinese hifi !