How to Paint Deathwatch Kill Team
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- čas přidán 7. 11. 2020
- In this video I'll show you how to paint a Deathwatch kill team! This is a pretty straight forward scheme and should enable you to get your deathwatch kill team on the table in no time at all! This scheme can also be applied to vehicles so all your xenos hunting needs are covered!
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Redgrass Games Wet Palette: www.redgrassgames.com/
My recommended equipment:
I use Makeup Brushes for Drybrushing:
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I use Winsor and Newton Series 7 brushes, size 00, 0 and 1 - you can get them here:
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Paints List:
Primer: Chaos Black
Abaddon Black
Dark Reaper
Thunderhawk Blue
Fenrisian Grey
Rhinox Hide
Doombull Brown
Skrag Brown
Agrax Earthshade
Reikland Fleshshade
Iron Hands Steel
Chrome
Nuln Oil
Retributor Armour
Liberator Gold
Aethermatic Blue
Blood Angels Red
Corax White
White Scar
Khorne Red
Wazdakka Red
Rakarth Flesh
Paint Conversion Chart:
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#deathwatch #spacemarines #warhammer - Jak na to + styl
That lens effect is so simple and easy, and looks great! Glad you can make things look doable to novices.
Cheers Ducky - that's the aim!
Ive watched so many Videos of yours. I started out with Warhammer by building the Silent King (and yes I know that I should have started with something smaller). I will give it my best shot cause so far the building was already very enjoyable and relaxing and I bet painting will be as well. Your explanations are very nice and straight forward so I trust that I'll paint many many more figurines thanks to your help. I will obviously show off my first paint job when its done.
Thank you so much! That is great to hear! Please feel free to ask any questions you have - welcome to the hobby!
Love the video but getting a weird audio issue around the 22:20 mark. Is it just me?
Cheers mate will have a look!
Brilliant as always my man 🙌🏻🙌🏻
Thank you kindly!
Superb as always 👍👍
Thanks Matthew!
I considered starting DW but they have way too many loadout choices etc that I would never be finished before deciding on what to do with them. Love the paintjob!
Thanks! Yes you're right I have no idea what to do about the other 4 haha
@@ThePaintingCoach I ended up getting a few custodes. At least that way I have only to choose between 1-3 weapons depending on unit. Same goes for Necron with even fewer choices most times.
Fair enough - I have fancied custodes for a while
Another great video my friend, I've painted so many Deathwatch over the last few years. Do you ever use any other paints other than GW? Ive recently fallen in love with Scale75
Thanks Colin - appreciate it! Yes - I use Vallejo and really like the Scale 75 golds!
Do u know how to fix citadel paints ive got some from a friend and shaking them wont fix em my khorne red is almost like u poke jelly and has this purple liquid in it and my white is like chalky
Hmm I'm not sure to be honest - other than giving it a good stir - i think Greenstuff World do a paint restorer of sorts, not sure how good it is
@@ThePaintingCoach ok ty
Paint is made up of pigment (the colour), binder (the stuff that helps the pigment stick to things) and a solvent (to make sure the pigment and binder don't become a gloopy lump). The solvent in Citadel paints is water-based, and that water-based solvent evaporates. You can sometimes rehydrate an acrylic paint where its solvent has evaporated by adding warm water one drop at a time and stirring the paint with a toothpick. Don't flood it - one drop at a time - and warm, not hot or cold. If you wanted to do this properly, use something like a few drops of Revel Aqua Color thinners, Humbrol Acrylic thinners or Vallejo airbrush thinners... but it might be cheaper to just buy some new pots of paint.
This only works if the solvent has evaporated, meaning both pigment and binder are still viable. If the paint has gone from 'jelly' to 'solid rock of colour' you are most likely out of luck and need new paint.
Don't use white spirit, turpentine or naptha-based thinners used for enamel paints, and I wouldn't recommend alcohol-based acrylic thinners (Tamiya X-20A, Mr Hobby, isopropyl alcohol) as the former will just turn the paint into a weird watery smelly mess. The latter might turn it into an even thicker goop.
White is a difficult paint to work as it's inherently chalky and tends to separate. A LOT of shaking or mixing can fix that, and dropping a stainless-steel ball bearing in the paint can speed up that process in the future.
Thanks for sharing! Great info!
As a child, my friendly local toy and model shop often gave me tins of Humbrol enamel paint that had been in stock too long and I got quite adept at recovering them using the techniques Alan describes.
In addition to Alan’s advice, all of which is really good, it might be worth buying something like a Badger paint mixer. It will help break up the jelly you describe and the smaller you can get the pieces, the easier it is to combine them with the solvent you put in. (That is because the surface area is greater in proportion to the volume of the pigment and binder.) It helps reduce the amount of stirring needed and should make it easier for you to judge early on if the paint is recoverable, but do not use the mixer with the ball bearing in the pot(!) I echo Alan’s advice about one drop at a time because base or layer paints, in common with many acrylic paints, generally have a low proportion of solvent and a high ratio of pigment to binder, which is why it is so easy to thin them.
One other thing to do, once recovered and if needed, is to ensure the rims and hinge of the pot are clean. Dried and drying paint can prevent an airtight seal and if there is no seal, the solvent will simply evaporate again. Citadel pots are more prone than some to this problem.
Now, if only I knew how to paint instead of mixing them!
It is way more enjoyable watching other people paint.
I have zero patience left. 😂😂😂😅
Haha hopefully my video helps!
@@ThePaintingCoach yes.... 😁😁😁
Haha good!