4R44E 4R55E 5R55E Rebuild
Vložit
- čas přidán 23. 08. 2024
- 2005 Explorer Sport Trac
PATREON: / curmudgeontransmission
Supplier Links:
Superior: superiortransm...
Transtar: www.transtar1....
WIT: www.wittrans.com/
Sonnax: www.sonnax.com/
Teckpak/Fitzall: www.teckpak-fi...
Transgo: transgo.com/
Precision of New Hampton: gopnh.com/
Atec Transtool: www.toolsource...
This is currently my meditation. I can watch this man build for hours. So thankful. Wish me many miles.
Thanks for watching them!
Was doing an in-vehicle service and valve body gasket replacement on my Ford Ranger. Between 1:17:30 and 1:19:08 was invaluable information! Had to pull out the parking pawl actuating rod so I could replace the manual valve detent lever (I broke the hardened pin off the side - long story). Couldn't figure out why it wouldn't go back into the hole in the tail shaft. That specific section of this video showed me why. A piece of coat hanger bent in an "L" allowed me to pull the parking pawl to the side and slide the actuating rod into place without having to remove the tail shaft. Other parts of this video were very helpful as well. I VERY MUCH appreciate you taking the time to make this to help and guide others like me. Many, many thanks for this awesomely detailed video!
Glad I could help. Thanks for watching.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission The transmission I spoke of above is working very well except for one thing: the 2-3 shift is a bit hard. I hesitate to say it is harsh, but compared to the 1-2 shift, it hits much harder. Anyway, you mentioned that the spec on band adjustment is two turns out, but you always do 1 1/2 turns. I did the 1 1/2 like you said. Should I go 2 turns on the intermediate to resolve the harder 2-3 shift?
Thank you
My overdrive sprag took a dump at 297k... Factory never been worked on 5r55e
I replaced it with a junk yard unit with 50k on the clock.. So far so good.
Now to rebuild the old one with this video.
Don't worry.. I can do almost anything to a vehicle except rebuild an automatic transmission until now.
Glad I could help, good luck on it. Thanks for watching.
Just pay attention how you make your part you have to take pictures or video whatever works for you there not that difficult once you run the fundamentals
Watched the whole thing. Thank you. I have rebuilt transmissions for a living, mostly heavy duty power shifts. I have never done one of these but have one to do in my retirement hobby. Thanks again..
Thanks for watching!
I7
Excellent instructive video. Thanks for posting. Rebuilding a 4r443 for a 3.0L Ranger. Curious what the measurement of the stack on reassembly should be for this transmission. You did not mention what the measurement should be in the video.
.051-.079 for all 3 drums. If ever in doubt the general rule is .008-.010 per friction for almost any transmission. Some transmissions there is no information on that. Not true for 100% of them but the great majority. Usually get you there if you can not find the information.
Great Video. Big help! Thank you very much.
Glad it helped, thanks for watching.
Thanks a million for this video. Just tore one down to replace the reverse band and was wondering if I would get it together right the first time. This was a great help.
Glad I could help, thanks for watching.
Hi. I have a 4R44E tranny out of a 97 3.0 L Ford Ranger. Before I tell you my story ,I just want to lyk that I grew up around my stepfathers auto repair shop and had the priviledge of his "theres the tools" wisdom everytime I brought my vehicles to him to be repaired. I have worked on many, many engine issues since then, however, trannys were not his expertise and , surprise,.. not mine either! I pulled this transmission out(my first automatic tranny ever...I can only guess what you"re thinking, shaking your head...why ,why ...among other things!! lol) but it is what it is ,and it sits in my bedroom disassembled, and has been there for a year because I cannot find the reason for the symptoms it was having. I researched and found a great vid on what should"ve been wrong. It was slipping in 3rd and 4th gear. According to my research, shouldve had a blown valve body metal gasket? please forgive if this is wrong...been a year! No shavings in the tranny ...nothing! Anyway, Im stuck now because buying new tranny is not an option and taking to a repair shop is not feesable either because of cost. Not paying more to repair than truck is worth!! ugh !! please help. !!! If you have new suggestions on troubleshooting, I would be ever grateful! If you dont have any advice except , "stop pulling trannys," I would understand!! Thanks
The metal separator plate is not what you should be looking at. It's the paper gaskets that blow out. Usually it is on the side that faces the case. Sometimes it is on the side that faces the valve body. Always replace the overdrive and intermediate bands, even if they look good. The servos for them tend to get hard. If you squeeze the rubber and it is firm or hard, replace them. For a 3.0 you should have at least an AB in the overdrive spot. It may have a ZC, which is better. Don't use less than an AB there. The intermediate should be an AB also. Don't use less than that there either. Both apply levers in the case use an A. Replace the sprag in the overdrive section. The planetary shims in the overdrive planet are probably coming out also, if not they will be. So, replace it also. If you are not seeing anything that is causing the slippage you may have a shift solenoid or valve body problem. The solenoid to look at would be the Coast Clutch. It is the 2nd one from the front on the side that has 4 in a row. Pay close attention to the wiring harness. If it has cracks in the insulation anywhere, replace it. Need any help just give me a shout.
15 minutes in and my anxiety is in OD.. My 03 Ranger will not move in Drive or reverse and the dipstick shows way overfilled, I bought the truck with a blown engine and replaced it only to find the transmission issue. These trans are expensive so I plan on pulling it in a couple of days and seeing what I can do, fixing to finish the video and probably have nightmares, lol.. Loving the details man, I'm not sure what my exact issue is but I'm figuring a complete rebuild but not looking forward to it. Thanks for the video !!
Thanks for watching. I think bare minimum your pump is broken.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you very much for your input sir.. I will definitely look into that !! I have thought of every possibility but admit my ignorance to these transmissions. The previous owner literally locked up the engine going down the Interstate and I honestly don't know what impact that would have on a transmission. I'm going to do my best, I've put too much time into it to give up now..
@b2addict561 what ended up being the problem with your forward and reverse?
Im having tge same problem and I just now working on pulling the transmission (5R) 97’ 4x4 myself.
@@jonathansherman549 Man, I wish I could tell you but I was in way over my head. After talking to a couple of transmission shops and finding out what they would charge, I just bit the bullet and threw the money on a reman transmission. Good luck getting yours going brother, wish I could have given you some info...
Great video, really appreciated. When you're air checking the forward and direct drums, you also check a third port. It's the one in the long worm track to your right. I've googled it and it appears to be for "lube". When I apply air to it I get no effect. What is this port for, and what am I checking for? The ports for the forward and direct drum actuate the pistons nicely when I put air to them.
Also must point out I'm working on a 4r44e, whereas it appears you're working on a 5r something
It is lube. Just making sure it does blow through. The 5R55E is the same internal make up as the 4R. The differences are in the planetary pinions and clutch capacity. What makes it a 5 speed is the computer strategy. You can put the beefier planets and larger capacity drums in the 4R44E and make it tougher.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks for the quick reply. This might be a dumb question, but lube for what? Just general pressurized ATF for the whole transmission? Or something specific? And where would I be checking for the air to be coming through? Again appreciate you sharing all your experience and knowledge with us noobs
For all the planets, bearings, bushings and such. It is more of an audible thing. If you have checked all of your shafts and made sure that the lube holes were not plugged in them then if it goes through there everything should be copasetic. It is not common for it to be plugged but I have run into it a couple of times. If it is it will take out all your hard parts in as little as 20 miles. Same thing with a restricted cooler, either a stand alone or the one in the radiator. Thanks for watching them.
Awesome video helped me rebuild my 4r55e, except i made a mistake some where and no longer have reverse. Any tips on how to go about diagnosing what i did wrong with out pulling it completely apart again ?
First thing I would check is the band. Pull the rear servo and see if it is out of position. You can usually move it back into position.
@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you very much for tip ! The band in fact did move the servo wasn't hitting the tab on the band !
Great video! Was wondering if you could provide a little assistance. I recently bought a 2000 ford ranger with a 4r44e 4x4 120k miles, and found what look like bearing needles in the pan (normal fluid and trace metal accumulations). Can you give me an educated guess which bearing may have failed? Tranny seem to operate ok, but something is not correct. The needle OD is 3.45 mm (0.136") and the length is 1.85mm (0.073"). Can't seem to find any bearing specs; is there a document with this info? Thanks...Jim
Sorry for the long delay, this just showed up in my spam. I responded to it on the main page when you first asked about it as it would not let me answer you directly. Don't know if you have seen it but it is at the top of the comments. Don't know why some are sent to spam, and why it takes so long to get there.
Great tutorial! I wonder. In the superior valve body kit. There is a pressure riser component. Do You have a video on where it goes?
No I don't. Have never used it. It will be installed in the wiring harness. I will see if I can get my hands on an instruction sheet.
Great video!
Thanks!
a question on this case for you. have the atsg manual for the 5r55e and it states to replace the 8 pump bolts but the torque spec doesn't indicate a torque to yield spec, and pretty much every rebuild video i have seen does not mention this. they come with o-rings, which you pointed out in this video, and i would gather these would need to be replaced. but the bolts themselves? it just seems odd to me. what is your take on it?
I have never replaced the bolts on these. Yes, the o-rings need to be replaced. You can also use the earlier washers that were used on the A4LD instaed, and usually come in the kit also.
Question regarding the cooler bypass modification you were showing.
If that tip pops out at all after pressing in the vice it should be ground down?
And you mention removing the spring behind the piston and then adding a 1/4in check ball on the other end? Is the check ball just used as a spacer or is there a hole that needs to be drilled for it to "check"?
Thanks in advance, had the dreaded no drive or reverse and I've used your teardown and assembly videos to go through everything and get Mt ranger back on the road. You're incredibly knowledgeable
Yes, if the tip pops out grind it down. No drilling needed, just add the ball. Thanks for watching.
Wow this is going to prove invaluable to me in a few months. These being older now there was really no assembly vids for this trans. Loads of 5r55 s/w/n but not the e's. Thanks for the close-up and detail. This is what I need to actually have any confidence in being able to tackle mine. What type of assembly lube were you using there?
Two different brands, Dr.Tranny and Transjel. They both make the same ones. I use Gold ( the thinnest ) and Green ( the thickest ). Thanks for watching.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission. Thanks, Hopefully between your Vids, a couple others, and an ATSG manual I'll manage. BTW It was very helpful how you showed the order of the parts stacking (drums/gears etc) outside the case first before filling it. I know that adds nonproductive time for you to the video. But for those actually needing to replicate it ... it's great. Thx
Thanks. I am sure you will do fine. Although I have not tried it yet, the plastic tool that comes in the Transgo 5R55S,W,N kit to line up the pump should work on this unit as well, they are basically the same. I just have always lined mine up in the torque converter and seems to work well for me, and it is free. Lining up the pump and the valve body are the hardest things on this unit.
Great video tons of usefull information, i really appreciate that you share your knowledge with everyone... i just rebuilt the transmission on my ford explorer 96, the problem is that it will only go forward on first gear, does not shift and does not go on reverse, what could be the cause of that?
When you say it will only go forward on first gear are you meaning it will not move forward except when you put it in manual low? For reverse, is there no engagement, go forward in reverse also or no engagement?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks for your quick answer, when i put it in drive it will go forward but wil not go past 10 MPH, and reverse will not engage at all.
@@emiliogaitan Are you sure you got the check balls in the valve body in the right spot? There are a couple of L shaped keepers that like to fall out also. Are you sure those are in there also?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission hello again! i went back to my transmission, uninstalled the valve body and found that we put an incorrect gasket, we will be installing the correct one this weekend, hopefully that will fix the problem. i did check for the keepers and the check balls, all that is OK. i will keep in touch, thanks a lot for your suport.
We rebuil our ford ranger transmission for the reverse and then when we were putting in the transmission fluid it leaked all, now just doesn't go any where. For a second went reverse and it hardly wants to go to the front.
Sounds like you did something wrong. To leak that fast you are probably looking at the front seal or cooler line.
Thanks!
Thanks for watching.
Thanks for supporting the channel.
hey great video very insightful - how would you recommend replacing the transmission fluid inlet pipe without dropping the tranny? mine is loose and seeping fluid. the new one I have is way too tight and without much room I cant get any leverage to press it into the trans. the pipe is the one at approximately 1:14:29 when youre working on the cooler o-rings
Thanks. You're probably going to have to at least remove the exhaust, they are some what tight. You are going to need the upper part of the tube to get it at the right angle to line up. Might be able to drive it in with it. Use a block of wood to keep from messing up the end of it. Probably will take two people, one up top driving it in while the other is underneath lining it up and keeping it at the right angle.
Where can I find that spring for mercury mountaineer for them have discontinued that spring on that pawl
globaltransmissionparts.com/c3-a4ld-4r44e-4r55e-5r44e-5r55e-parking-pawl-assembly-1974-up-oem/
Thanks! Great video, very well done. I have never tackled an automatic transmission, and I appreciate your video. Quick question, how do you get the transmissions that clean before the rebuild?
Thanks for the donation and for watching. We have a machine that is like a giant dishwasher. Has high pressure jets and gets to about 180 degrees with a special soap for aluminum. They don't always come out that clean on the outside, but most do. The inside is what is most important. Depends on what the vehicle has been put through. Red clay dirt and oil field ones never come clean on the outside. They need to be put through an acid bath first that I don't have access to.
I have a Ford Explorer 4.0 95 4r55e transmission, we did a complete rebuild, but after installing it in the car, it only engages reverse and second gear, what could have happened?
Bad or Installed backwards overdrive sprag. Or forward modulator valve bore plug mispositioned or in backwards.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you very much for the information, congratulations on the video.
Need some advice. Just replacing the overdrive sprag and plantery, got them used. Both look identical, but can't get the overdrive drum back on the overdrive plantery. In the video 35:20 you just slid it right on any tips?
I bet the planetary is mis-shapen where the clutches spline. Take the clutches out of the drum and try to fit them on the planet.
I found a ply pin in my transmission pan on my 96 explorer. What would cause this?
Hard to say without seeing the part. But more than likely it is an apply pin from either the overdrive or intermediate bands. So probably one of the bands has broken.
My reverse servo doesn’t go down all the it’s like crooked to where like one side is in more then the other and I notice that is not flat all around the hole and like it it has damage on the sides
They do sit at a slight angle. Look in the hole and make sure your band has not moved out of position. Happens sometimes when the transmission gets moved around.
I rebuild and reinstall the transmission on my Ford ranger 3.0 V6 this is my third day driving it and I noticed that in 40 mph it started to shutter a bit could be that is breaking in the transmission or is there a issue
It may be an engine misfire. It is hard to tell the difference between a torque converter shudder and an engine misfire. You can watch it on a scanner if you have one. Some Ford's do not have a PID for engine misfire, so in that case you need to find cylinder balance test and watch it there.
I’m tackling a 5r55e rebuild. Long story short, the reluctor wheel snapped off from the planetary, causing a p0715 trouble code. No visible damage to other parts other than some nicks to the friction plate guides where the reluctor wheel was welded. Brass washers in the planetary are still in tact, no bearing damage, the sprag even still looks good. The bands are all but worn out but all the clutches look pretty good, no burning or signs they locked up. I’m replacing the planetary assembly with reluctor, new sprag, new TSS sensor and master rebuild kit. Is there anything else you would recommend adding to the build and what brand kit would you recommend? Also, what special tools are required to complete the job? I know a spring compressor is needed to remove the pistons. Snap ring pliers, but which type? Blue and green assembly lube. Seal and bearing drivers/pullers. Anything else I’m missing? Thank you so much, your videos are life savers and great for DIYers like me who love to learn new things!
Also, I was reading the ATSG assembly manual and it said that the torque converter bearing that’s pressed into the bell housing, behind the converter seal isn’t serviceable? Said that you have to buy a new housing? Is that correct or am I misinterpreting it?
Thanks again
Transtec kit with Raybestos clutches. Put a pump bushing in also. Always replace the overdrive and intermediate bands, horrible about breaking. Reverse breaks also but is not as bad as the others. No special tools needed, besides the spring compressor. I use the torque converter to line up the pump. Without seeing what you got that sounds like what I would do.
Excellent sir! Thank you again for your wealth of knowledge and taking the time to help.
One last question on the valve body separator plate. Mine has the bonded gaskets, do I need to buy another with the bonded gaskets, or are the individual paper gaskets that come in the kits good? I’m assuming Ford did that in later years to stop the blowouts. I haven’t done any modifications to the valve body, I wouldn’t be losing any progress by buying a new plate. Just looking for the same stock setup I had, the transmission shifted great up until the TSS reluctor wheel broke. I have the whole transmission broken down and I haven’t found any other failures other than worn out clutches and bands. Your help has been invaluable, thanks again!
@@russellmccarty4287 If the bonded plate looks ok you can reuse it. If not, personally I would get a new bonded one. If you don't want to do that you can put the plate in a solution of drain cleaner and water. Probably need to leave it overnight. The bonded gaskets will peal off. Rinse it off well. Then you can use the ones that come in the kit.
I got a jag 2003 s type with that lincoln ford tranny j gate. The tranny runs great yet when om in the lowest gear and it goes up or down from the next shift it makes slight thud and then a gearbox fault comes on and the tranny goes into limp mode and you cant go over 20 miles a hr. You turn the car off wait a minute start it up and it resets and drives fine. it never does it anywhere else the car pulls strong up to 100 mph on the freeway shifts great in every gear. Now the Jag mechanics on line say it could be a ignition coil tripping it for jag put that in so if it misfires it goes to limp mode to save the engine? So do I go to a regular mechanic or to a tranny guy. The jag mechanics say some people got suckered into rebuilding thier tranny when it was the coil only....any help?
This is for Jim DeWald. Your comment did not show up here and it won't let me respond to you, so hopefully you see this. The only bearing that has rollers that short is behind the rear ring gear. Between it and the Sprag race. It has probably ruined that surface so you will be looking at replacing the case or doing the repair on the race I think I have a video showing that. I will have to figure out which one it is in. If you see this try reposting and I will get you that info.
Is that called the lock up seal at 54:38?
Yes It is.
I rebuilt my transmission but the torque converter does not spin on the bell housing. Gears seems to be pressed up against the pump plate. Spins before I tighten down the pump bolts. Freezes after tightening the bolts down Followed your directions in the video to rebuild and align the pump on the torque converter. I spun the drive shaft in the Torque converter before mounting so all the parts move freely (not a faulty converter). Rear drive shaft moves in the transmission Any suggestions?
There probably is a slight ridge on the bell housing where the bushing is. Take a knife or a file and clean up the edge there.
I feel more confident in rebuilding my own.
Glad to help, thanks for watching.
great video man im having an problem with mine it will go forward but have to rev to hi in order to move also on reverse if i put it on first gear it will move i toke it a part and my od sprag is bad it supposed to be one way bearing right if so now it moves boths ways and also i check the od center shaft and the od planet and they both have little damage should i replace all of them thanks and again great video
Thanks, yes all of that will need to be replaced. Common problem on these.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you for you response another question do you know where can i het the parts my local store don't have any of the parts they are on back order is no telling wen can they get them thanks again
Try WIT or Transtar, links are in the description of every video.
When replacing the servo piston while the transmission is still in the vehicle is it neccessary to adjust bands after?
It would be wise. I set mine @ 1 & 1/2 turns.
I have a 2003 Ranger with the 5r55e and it doesn’t move in first but fine in reverse, 2nd and all other gears any idea what it would be?
Input sprag, usually takes the overdrive planet and hub with it, if it is before a rebuild. If after, that or the bore plug for the forward modulator valve is backwards or the valve is stuck.
Does the sun shell and drum supposed to mesh in those teeth?
The direct drum lugs should mesh with the sunshell, yes.
What if you drive the front pump / torque converter seal a little past flush maybe 1/8 of an inch?
Should not be a problem.
The only other difference in a 4 r44e and 5 r55 transmission is the 5 R's use a five pinion planet where the 4r44 use a 4 pinion planetary the rest is almost identical besides a clutch capacity and torque converter size and stall speed
Correct about the clutch capacities and stall speed. The 4R44 uses a 3 pinion, 4R44 uses a 4 pinion and a 5R55 uses a 6 pinion, as well as a different computer strategy that makes it a 5 speed. The only other differences are the amount of speed sensors and the parts they would read off of and the sizes of the servos and their levers. Thanks for watching.
@@CurmudgeonTransmissionI realize computer strategy different and seen 6 pinion 6 pinion planetaries and my comment was general was on general first overall case design that if someone built a 4r44e besides minor differences they could in theory build 5 r55 and in case didn't say in last comment great video
Otimo
Thanks
Hi, great video, maybe someone can give me some advice. I recently replaced the front pump gasket, ring, and bushing on my 5r55e because the torque converter was slipping. I also replaced the torque converter. When I installed everything back on the truck, the transmission wouldn't even engage. I have taken everything back out and the front pump apart again. 1. I found that my bushing was blocking the recess hole (seen in 31:03) by being flush with the back of the bell housing. 2. My inner gear on the pump had wear on it, not enough to pinch the o-ring but a good amount of wear/chewing (not caused by this converter, just went unseen by me the first time). 3. I did not use an alignment tool or the procedure you did to put it all back together the first time..... So could any of that cause the transmission not to engage AND the pump to not work (fluid did not get warm). Thanks for any help.
It's possible. Never blocked one totally off but I do know that partially blocking it will cause the converter clutch to try and apply in gear. Maybe totally blocking it would cause the converter not to charge. Was it dry when you pulled it out?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Barely had any fluid in the the pump, basically none in the converter too, even though I put 1 quart and a half before install. I'm finding it hard to get the bellhousing to spin freely while holding the converter. Seems to lock up as soon as I hand tighten the bolts. I thoroughly cleaned it and used white lithium grease, its actually spinning a decent amount now but not as much as yours. Can the pump be bad itself? I am unsure of what can go bad on this pump, the gears seem fine. And it worked great and the trans shifted throughout every gear before I removed it. My next plan is getting it to spin the best I can, put fluid in the converter, and re install the trans. If it doesn't work should I just get a new pump?
Take a ridge cutter or pocket knife and scrape around the hole in the bellhousing where it fits against the plate and I bet it will turn freely after that.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Followed your advice. I greased it up after I cleaned around the hole, and it spun freely. I decided to put the trans back on without installing the unnecessary to test it..... Pump still isn't pumping... It can't be the overdrive sprag right? If fluid isn't pumping does it directly point back to the pump?
@@marvinellison7598 Pump, filter, stuck valve in the valve body. Primarily pressure regulator or lock up valve.
im working on a 5r44e and i rebuilt it and now i have whining coming from trans what did i do wrong
also which servos go where on my trans as well as springs
More than likely it is the pump. It requires a special tool to line it up. However, I use the torque converter to do it. There are several different sizes of servo's. I go through it in the video. ZC is the largest and goes in the overdrive bore with the lighter spring. I never use less than an AB there. For the Intermediate bore, either an AB or no less than a BB with the heavier spring.
I have an and bb servos . Would the pump cause it not to shift ?
No. Will cause it not to move. You will have to watch data on a scanner to determine why it is not shifting.
What should I check on the scanner
When you say take the spring out for delay in forward what does it do bc I removed my spring but I’m currently rebuilding transmission
I usually leave it in and only take it out if I have a delay, which is rare. "May" give you a firm forward.
My next question is when I pulled out the fwd drum and took out all the friction and steel plates. There were five frictions plates, and in the video I saw that you put six, but I tried to do the same thing, but the snap ring does not end up going in the groove of the drum and it’s just hanging on the side. Also for the direct drum it came with 4 friction plates but I saw you put 5 friction plates and just wondering if this normal or if something is wrong here because when I disassembled the drum originally they came the way I described
There are different clutch capacities depending on engine size, so put back what you had.
Copy thanks also will there be a fault in the pump for not putting new sealant rings since my kit did not come with it
I have reused them before with no problems.
Hey, it appears my overdrive drum is stuck onto the planetary gear. Any tips?
Put your input shaft into the overdrive planet and knock it out with a hammer. Odds are you will be replacing it all anyways.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Yeah, it was pretty gruesome when I got it apart. Thank you for the advice though!
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Not to be a bother but I have another question I'm hoping you can answer. Do you know what the difference between a 5r55e and a 5r44e OD drum is? Is it just how many clutch plates are in it? I bought a preassembled overdrive/planetary set for a 5r55e and it was only after that I realized I probably have a 5r44e. I've had an incorrect 5th gear ratio code since rebuilding and it was only just now that I realized this is where I probably screwed up. If that is the case, would simply adding/subtracting clutch plates be the fix? Is the drum itself the same size? Thanks!
The parts are interchangeable. There is less clutches in the forward and direct drums for the 4r44. I have only ever seen the drum for overdrive take 2 clutches for any of them. There is a difference between the early and late parts. The early drum had a bushing in the drum. The late one had a bearing on the pump in place of the bushing. The late clucthes are also directional. If you put them in the wrong way they will slip. Does it have 5th gear? If the reluctor is bent in any way it will also give you a code as it thinks its slipping. Do you remember how many teeth were on the sun gear they sent you? Maybe they sent you a W instead of an E. What year are we talking about?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission
It's from a 2011 2.3l Ford Ranger - Purchased set used a bushing. Never looked at the clutches, I'm pretty green to transmissions so I thought the less I touched the better. I assumed they assembled it correctly. I think the sun gear was the same as my old one, I vaguely remember interchanging them just to see. As far as I know it doesn't have 5th gear right now as it drives the same with OD off as it does with OD on. What has been tripping me up is that when I search this issue online it seems like whenever people get a P0735 (5th gear ratio) code they are accompanied with a P0732 (2nd gear ratio). That makes sense to me as 2nd gear and 5th gear both are using overdrive but I only pull P0735 and 2nd gear seems to be working as intended. I've looked at the band/clutch application chart and it seems like the only thing different between 2nd and 5th gear is that 5th gear has the direct drum applied? Does the issue being isolated to 5th gear mean anything to you?
What did you use for lube for the seals?
Transjel Gold.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks
What do u use for lube on the seals
In this video it was Transgel gold. No longer available. Now using Dr. Tranny blue.
When I was rebuilding transmissions in the 80s Vaseline for all the seals I still use it in a lot of seals and motors rear axles Evan motorcycle seals
Not a fan of torque wrenches eh?
كود جاب
Translation did not come through.