Camera Setting for Capturing Street Photos - Sony Alpha
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- Optimum Settings for Shooting Street Photography with the A9 and A7RIII cameras.
⬇️more info below⬇️
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Mark Galer is a Sony Alpha Ambassador for Australia.
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Many thanks Mark. This is the really very best, clear and professional explanation anybody can find in the internet on this subject
Love the easy flow practicality. Mr. Galen was one of the reasons I have adopted Sony mirrorless along with my original Nikon dslr. Keep the a1 videos coming. Thank you
Great to hear!
Useful, informative and I like the term:" The settings have your back". Thank you for another really good video.
BAM!!! What a great turtorial again! I’m just gonna by a Sony, just for your fantastic information. The most of it, when it comes to photography I already know but you are explaining very well how the (weird) Sony menu works. I just have to get used to it, coming from Nikon.
Thank you so much for this video. The information is incredibly clear and easy to follow, and the advice is very different from what us amateurs would think to do by experimenting on our own. I can't wait to use these techniques on the street.
The best Sony expert do far! Fantastic job 👌
@13:37 invaluable words.
I realized this after several failed attempt to capture some street moment. I thought the streets are ready for me to get there and capture, wrong! Well, sometimes they do but often, u need to discover and organize them through your viewfinder
Hi Mark, A great video and really useful, informative, and encouraging. Thank you.
Thank you so much for your reply. Its very admirable that you take the time to respond to many of the questions and comments I see in this thread. Greatly appreciated Mark.
Great Videos, helped me a lot in understanding my Gear, approving my workflow and get better results.
Awesome video - thanks for taking the time to make it. I've set up one of my custom memories with these settings.
Great tutorial! I use ISO Auto for street photography. I generally find 100-400 ISO Enough to cover all the light/action scenarios.
Really informative and helpful videos. Thank you for taking the time to do them. Gonna try these settings during a trip to Tokyo in a few weeks
learnt so much from this, not just the settings, but also finer points of focus and depth of field, thank-you
Thanks Mark! Another informative video.
Without your instructional video, I will be so confused with the Sony menu :)
Amazing content, need today to buy my memory card, and after that I'll deep dive again into this video, tons of useful information, thanks again! 👍🙏😎🤗
Brilliant!!! My number one setting!!! (before PAL😁)
Fantastic video yet again Mark, your videos teach me so much I just wish you was on call 24/7 but that’s me desperate for your knowledge. Thanks for your work.
Man. That was phenomenal. Thank you.
LOVE this video Mark as Street Photography is one of my fave genres to shoot. I only have the a6000 but many of these tips are helpful even to those on the APSC cameras (a6xxx series). Hope to upgrade to the a6500 or a6700 when it comes out so I can get the very helpful and needed silent mode for street photography as the 5 axis IBIS. Those were the only 2 options I really miss in my a6000 that are needed for street 'togs. Keep it up. BTW LOVE all the street shot images. Please keep posting those. Your skills are amazing as always. Cheers from California USA
SteadyShot (IBIS) is useful for low light shooting - but this street genre keeps the shutter speed high so steadyshot is not essential in this instance.
Thanks for the tips. I’m in Tokyo atm so will try these out
These settings are ideal when the ambient light is constant but you may need to look for an alternative if the weather is cloudy one minute and sunny the next.
Thanks Mark. So is the only thing I’m changing is the ISO depending on the light conditions in the range of 400 - 3200?
Another excellent tutorial just for the info on 16 rule!
I always shoot in Aperture Priority mode at 1.8 and let the camera do the rest :) does a grea job an got very sharp photos
Fantastic Mark. Thank you.
Excellent content and presentation style -- thank you!
Thanks a lot for your entire work about camera settings for a7riii. i do know well my a7riii but learn a bit more with your videos. kind regards
Another great insight for us amateurs 👍🏼
After saving the selected settings to a memory position, it may be a good idea to reset the custom settings menus back to their default values in Setup7 > Settings Reset > Camera Settings Reset. This will baseline the settings, but preserve the settings you saved to memory position 1, 2 or 3.
...otherwise you may forget, as I did, that all my settings were currently set based on the process of saving a custom 'landscape' memory position, and find myself on an indoor event shoot scrambling at the last second to get the settings back to default and then set up for the environment at hand.
On an aside, any intention to create a settings recommendation video for indoor, ~low light event photography? Lots of holiday parties going on at the moment ;)
This will actually wipe *everything* including the memory positions, be careful!
that was great Mark
I really appreciate these videos! Happy Holidays!
Thanks for the positive feedback - I will be back in the new year with many more.
Another really helpful and thought-provoking video! Can't wait to try this (on my a6400). BTW I did contribute a while ago and [update: now have]! Thank you.
Thanks for this video, do you really need another video for street shooting in the night, bright and dim areas?
I have a full schedule but will get around to it eventually. Not all of my videos are public as I have reserved 25 hours plus of video content for my Patrons over at Patreon.com/markgaler
@@AlphaCreativeSkills Thanks for the response, if you have a public Photography class in Melb I am keen to attend. You speak from experience and are reserved with your comments.
Very helpful.. Great content altogether 👍
Thanks, I love your input each time, very nice sunny 16 tip.
Glad it was helpful!
Move the whole Sunny 16 rule to f/11 or f/8 if you are using a cropped sensor or just don't need depth of focus to extend to infinity or are using a lens wider than 35mm.
There should be a setting on all Sony cameras: 'The Galer Settings' with a quick summary and description of all the modes.
You are a great teacher - clear, detailed and great advice in every other sentence. One question though - these settings seem great for daylight, but what are the ideal comparable settings for night?
Oh, and one thing I learned which I've never heard mentioned is that in my a6400 for example there are four separate memory slots in both PAL and NTSC, making 8 in total.
I keep my three on-camera modes for video and have so far amassed the following on my memory card across PAL & NTSC: Portraits; Action; Landscapes - Handheld; Landscapes - Tripod; Street - Day.
Apart from "Street - Night", are there any other modes you might advise in order to get maximum use out of the camera.
Have you downloaded my free A6400 eBook?
Hi Mark. I certainly have, but the videos are unquestionably easier to follow when you're sitting with the camera. Been doing solid research for over a month so time to start using the camera properly outside. I will up the ISO and lower the shutter as required at night and see how it goes. Thanks so much and it's great to know you are listening.
Thank you for this great tutorial. I have had my Sony for a number of years and I decided to finally learn the ins and outs of it better.
2 questions:
1. Would it be a good idea to ALWAYS have the camera set at "Steady shot - on?"
2. When you set the Fn key to no audio signals etc., did you group all the settings into the Fn key? I was sure what Fn upper 1 etc. meant.
Thank you again
1) Watch my SteadyShot video tutorial. Sony would not add an option to switch it Off if it was always best left On.
2) The Fn key accessed the Fn menu where I had added Audio Signals. This allows me to enable and disable audio signals as required.
For ongoing support check out my support channel at Patreon.com/markgaler - but it's best to join on or shortly after the 1st of the month.
This is great thank you
I've been here before, super helpful
Glad it was helpful! - Please subscribe to the channel to support my work.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills Subscribed, its a pleasure
Dear Mark... I have recently brought a A7RIII couple of months back...your videos & tutorials are really helpful & outstanding... your in depth knowledge about Sony camera operations & settings are simply Fabulous....always keep looking forward to your new videos... would like to understand if I can set M1, 2 or 3 settings on Camera dial with these pre sets to quickly get into Street Photography mode on A7RIII as well if possible....Please keep up the great work..Best Wishes & Big Thank you !!
Yes that's possible and I have a video tutorial called Total Recall on my channel to showcase the workflow.
Nice .... One clarification ... Shall I use this settings for any Sony Alpha 7iii Camera
Yes
Yes, 35mm f1.8 is my favorite lense.
Awesome!!!! Thank You, very helpful
Terrific video Mark. Thank you. In it you reference the A9 and using the control dials on its upper left. I wish to God they had made the A7Riii with these same control dials as the A9. Please if you have any input with Sony ask them for that when they update the A7Riii to whatever they’re going to the next update.Also, you reference setting up the camera for back button focus, and uncoupling the shutter release from the focus function. In the A9, can’t you effectively do the same thing by taking it off balanced emphasis and putting the shutter release on release (and not on focus emphasis) I may be using the wrong terms here, but I hope you know what i am referring to. I absolutely love your videos.I wish you had a paid instructional video for each the A9 and A7Riii - I’d be willing to buy it. Thanks Mark.
Paindoctor - The Focus Mode and Drive mode dials are indeed good to have on the A9. Adding them to the A7Rlll would have increased the price point but I am sure many photographers who are interested in the A7Rlll would have been happy to pay the extra. One of the disadvantages at having these functions controlled by hard dials is that the drive mode and focus mode can’t be registered to the memory recall options on the Mode dial. The workaround for A9 users is to register them to the Custom Shoot Settings and assign a Custom Button to recall them. This workaround, however, requires the custom button to be held down continuously to activate these settings.
Thank you Mark. That's a great point. I went to your website, MarkGaler.com and found a terrific opportunity to train with your guidance via Skype, so I can get some of these questions I have answered directly, which is much appreciated. I sent you an email with some of these issues, so hopefully we'll get to do a training session together shortly. Thank you for helping not only me, but the many Sony users, both new and well-seasoned. I must say that of all the places I have searched (high and low :-) for tutorials on these new and high tech cameras, your videos are probably the best, in my opinion. Talk to you soon Mark and again many thanks.
Paindoctor - In reference to your comment about back button AF, The options for Priority Set in AF-C does not disable the AF function from the shutter release. If set to Release the camera will take the image while the camera is focussing, even if the cameras has not yet achieved critical sharpness. When set to AF the camera will delay the shutter release until the camera has confirmed focus. Balanced emphasis’s is a compromise settings where the camera will wait a little longer while achieving focus but then prioritize Release. Some sports shooters will often notice they are missing the first frame or two in the sequence when set to Balanced Emphasis as the camera goes through this waiting period. Using the AF On button prior to release will ensure the full sequence is captured. Back Button AF users want to remove any AF operation from the release so focus is either on or off - depending whether the AF-On button is being depressed. The options for Priority Set in AF-C would be redundant if this option to use back-button AF was chosen.
OK, I get it (more than before, anyway). I am hoping to get some more in depth insight into how I can set up my two cameras (A9 and A7Riii) before going to the Venice workshop in 8 days, along with a few other agenda items I will email you when we set up the training session. Thanks again Mark.
Paindoctor I have answered you via email.
great ! Thank you Mark.
Glad you liked it!
I absolutely love your videos Mark. I have especially enjoyed the ones on how to set up your camera for different types of shooting. That being said, do you set up your camera differently every time you go out? If you shoot action one day do you then change your settings the next day if you do street photography? Thanks.
Watch my Memory Mastermind video tutorial and will be clear.
Hi Mark, great video! Do you have a tutorial on how to take low light photography without flash? That is something I've been trying to master but my images gets too noisy or too blurred 😕
Your tutorials are the best out there. Thank you! 🙌
I have a low light video and I can provided ongoing support via my Patreon support site - Patreon.com
Hi Mark,
I am a big fan of your youtube channel. It's helping me to know my alpha camera(a6300) better. I am not sure if any of your videos already covered this but I was curious how metering mode setting changes the exposure of the image with alpha cameras and which mode I should use in different settings. Also, can you demonstrate how to use spot metering in portraits? Thank you.
preshit ambade - Multi is the most reliable - in the 5% of instances where Multi gets it wrong (due to the presence of predominantly light or dark tones) the EVF and Monitor will display the mistake and this can be quickly rectified using Exposure Compensation as guided by the observed scene and also the live histogram. This is perhaps the primary advantage about using a Mirrorless camera - the what-You-see-is-what-You-get view. The most unreliable metering mode is spot and as we don’t all share the same skin tone you would then have to continually compensate for this fact.
That make sense. Thank you so much for your reply. Look forward to meet you some day. :)
excellent!
Keep up the good work !
Great video!!!
Mark, do you have any hints about knowing when a silent shooting photo is taken? I find myself hitting the sitter multiple times to make sure I got it...
On all cameras except the A9 the screen will momentarily black out. If you have All Info displaying for the Monitor you will also see the total number of frames available (top left-hand corner) drop by one shot. This Info is always displayed in the Finder (top-left)
Thanks Mark, Now, I've got it...
Such a useful guides sir, keep sharing the secrets of high paid of pro's images ;)
Hi Mark, i just suscribe to your patreon, awsome contents, but i was wondering if it's possible to have camset or settings (capturing street) for Sony A7RV ? Thnaks in advance !
Patrons are advised to ask all question on the Patreon platform as I only get to answer a small proportion of the questions asked of me on CZcams. I have had to disable CZcams notifications otherwise my phone would ping constantly.
I have CAMSET files available on Patreon for both the A7RV and A7RVA.
I only register my PAL settings in the CAMSETs I provide, but have included tables of settings in the eBook so users can add an additional MR to their memory card (M1 to M4) or replace one of my MR settings. I have included a video link to modifying one of my memories in the video index.
With the rapid AF I now tend to shoot a lot of my street photography with the aperture wide open rather than following the traditional sunny 16 rule.
thank you a lot for your time to answer !@@AlphaCreativeSkills
HI Mark, thanks for all the good info - I am finding 400th really dark even with the ISO 800 & F11 - would you lower shutter/raise ISO or go wider? cheers
The Sunny 16 settings require that you have well defined shadows from your subjects. if the shadows have less well-defined edges you would raise the ISO to 800 and if the shadows disappear due to thin cloud cover you would be at 1600 ISO. If the clouds are grey you would be at ISO 3200. If you are still underexposing in these conditions it is worth double-checking the metadata to make sure everting conforms to the Sunny 16 rule. If you are still underexposing I would set the aperture at f/11. If you are still underexposing your camera or lens could possibly be at fault as the Sunny 16 rule is possibly more than a hundred years old. Also check you do not have a polarising filter on the lens.
I have just been lent an a6000 pending the arrival of an a6400; I had been hoping that this tutorial would apply to the mega-popular a6000-6500 range. In the past, have you made a video or series of videos dealing with these settings for the a6000 and later iterations? Also, I was a little unclear as to why you set menu settings to have the camera believe you were using a 50mm focal length when you were using the classic street focal length of 35 mm.
There is no doubt that this is the Best video, although not applicable to the camera I own, that I have seen in some years. Congratulations.
I have an APS-C playlist that includes many movies using the A6000. Its only since 2017, however, that I have been able to find the time to make extended coverage of setting up cameras for specific genres in greater detail.
Sony APS-C Cameras (A6K) czcams.com/play/PLWC-IgKORdDErROJqPi4MZxPLuxZBoNkr.html
As most of the principles in this movie apply to ALL cameras you could adapt this to the A6000.
Many thanks for your very prompt reply.
Hi Mark, thank you for the awesome video. Have a question, what if I'm using a 55mm/F1.8 lens? Do I still need to set the Super 35mm? Also, does that affect the aperture and depth of field setting?
The standard focal length for Street is 35mm. Moving to APS-C mode is an option not a prerequisite. If you are using a focal length longer than 35mm depth of field will decrease in full-frame mode, so your choice of focus distance will be a little more critical.
This is great, clear (as always) and very helpful. ONe small query: when I set the 'AF w/shutter to off', as suggested, record these various settings to M1 (Memory 1), then go to, say, Aperture or P mode, 'AF w/shutter' there too is 'off'. I can of course change it to 'on' but when I check the M1 settings, it is now 'on' there as well. This happens with 'AF w/shutter' and with the setting for 'Sunny weather' on the monitor brightness. Are these settings independent of the mode the camera is in, meaning I have to change them every time I switch modes, whether or not I use memory settings. Hope the question is even half as clear as your tutorial! Many thanks
You are right, the “AF w/shutter” setting is independent of your memory settings. If you want to use back-button focus, I find its best to leave “AF w/shutter” to “on”, and put the camera into manual focus mode. Then, define the “AF ON” button as a custom hold function button that overrides manual focus and puts the camera into AF-C or AF-S. This way, turning BBF on or off is achieved by setting the focus mode to manual or AF-C/AF-S, and the focus mode *is* recorded in your memory settings.
Great stuff thanks Mark, gonna give this a crack next time I head to the city to do some street stuff.
Question: Can you commit all of these settings to memory including back button focus?
Most of these settings can be committed to the memory. There are some settings that can't such as the 'Sunny' setting on the Monitor.
Thanks for the reply Mark.
That's cool as I normally have my monitor set to it's brightest setting anyway; if anything I'm more curious about whether or not you can commit a back button focus setup to memory or if you would have to physically go into the menu system to assign a custom button for use with BBF?
I cant remember if BBAF (Back Button AF) is a global setting affecting all memory modes or if its independent and can be turned on/off for each memory slot) but you could try to test it and see. I would think its memory dependent
I really like Mark Galen’s videos. But I have a SonyA7 Mark II. Did he do any videos using this camera instead of the newest, most expensive Sony cameras?
Robert Giguere - I started making movies with the first generation of Sony Alpha Mirrorless cameras so most of the movies in my channel feature the older models. The movies are less about the specific cameras and more about how to use menu items to gain control over your camera. I labelled the recent movies with the third generation cameras as the menu layout changed from the previous versions. Most movies can still be helpful for photographers using the older models - including this one.
Great video. Thanks! If using a polorizing filter would you just up the ISO a bit? So, if bright sunlight, 1/400 at F16, ISO 600? Sorry if a dumb question.
You would have to factor in the transmission value of the filter which could be 2 EV or more.
Hi Mark thank for sharing this video, is the settings you discribe here is valid with my Sony a7ii .Thx !
By the way happy new year !!!
Yes - the camera is being put into a basic manual camera that most cameras can achieve.
I feel dumb for asking this, but since we switched to the APS-C C35 mode, shouldn't we also choose CF (instead of Full-frame) in the cambridgecinolour depth of field calculator?
That is correct
Hey Mark, thanks for your great Video. I love your Channel. I am a Beginner and i am a little bit confused. Would you advice to use the sunny 16 rule for other types of Photography as well. Is it better to use than the Automatic exposure?
As a beginner I would recommend using Program or Aperture Priority Mode for most subjects. The Sunny 16 Rule suits Street Photography on sunny days but would be too complex to implement quickly when you want to keep varying your aperture to manage depth of field and the ambient light is constantly changing.
Hello Mark
You short videos are really simple to follow. So, thanks for that.
A question: you mention "iAF" - would you please tell me what that is? Is it a setting in the SONY A7r m3?
Thanks again
Eye-AF - it can be assigned to a Custom Button. Check out the Eye-AF movie on my channel.
Mark has another (a few) videos on his channel that cover the Eye-AF function in detail (I think for the a6000 but applies to all Sony mirrorless cameras). Check out the one on portrait photography or the other ones where he shoots with a female model some shots. Go back a few months/years to find it.
Thank you very much for the video, Mark! So insightful! I have a question, though: I recently switched from Canon to Sony, and still carry my expensive lens with me. I'm using the Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM Lens with a Metabones (V) adapter. When you get to the Focus Mode (5:28) section in the video, it won't let me choose Manual Focus. Is there an alternative you recommend? Thank you!
That is mighty strange - presumably you are in Manual Shoot Mode and not Auto. If this is the case you should direct your question to Metabones. Not allowing Manual Focus would be an oversight I am sure Metabones would not have made.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills Thank you! I'll try to go through the workflow you presented again.
On a personal note: this is by far my favorite photography channel! Thank you for taking the time to share with us your insightful knowledge!
According with my calculations 4m corresponds at f10 .Am I wrong?
Mark, with my RX100m7 I set it to f5 and 1/500 for daylight and ISO is 100 (400 for a cloudy day). Question: Why wouldn't I leave my ISO at AUTO instead of selecting 100, 400, 800 as you suggested somewhere I read? Is it because I am attempting to illuminate the subject 'in the sunlight' and not the overall scene?
OIt's to avoid having to do unnecessary exposure compensations when using Auto Exposure. If the level of ambient light is a consistent value there is no need for Auto Exposure. When using full manual mode, exposure is determined by the level of the ambient light and not the amount of light being reflected from the light and dark surfaces in the frame.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills Is ambient light, in my context, just the available natural light...that would be therefore on my subject, as opposed to, like you said, the light reflected from the light and dark surfaces making up the entire frame. So, the ISO of, say 100 would be a constant and better than an Auto? I'm pretty new. Thanks.
Yes - that’s what I am saying. I offer personal support and guidance + you can download an eBook for your camera from my Patreon.com/markgaler support channel
Hi Mark. If one decides to use AF instead of Manual Focus, why did you set the Focus Mode to Continuous AF, when you are not using a Lock-On focus area? What is the advantage of using Continuous AF, rather than Single-shot AF? Thanks.
zoe20641 - there is always a pause between pressing the shutter release and the camera taking a photo when using AF-S. this defeats the purpose of capturing the decisive moment. Accuracy of focus is also not important when using an aperture where the depth of field will cover any minor focussing errors.
i understand that youshould be sharp from 1.5m to infinity. is it true in practice, 100% sharp everywhere ? do you mean that you don't turn the 35mm lens ring at all in F16/iso 400/1/400sec during all the shoots you show here ???
When I learnt photography (back in the analog days) we didn't have menus on the cameras, we used manual focus lenses and guessed the exposure from the ambient light conditions or a hand-held meter. We did however learn from the likes of Henri Cartier Bresson that the decisive moment was more important than what settings you were using. There was a street photographer in the USA called 'Weegee' who only ever used one camera setting and taped these settings down. His style of flash photography gave rise to a whole genre in film.
Use an online a depth of field calculator to the confirm what is considered to be acceptable sharpness. This figure is a variable because viewing distance, image size and the visual acuity of the viewer has to be factored in.
Great advice in your custom settings recommendations. Should the settings be reset after using custom settings? Is there a simple way to do this and if I need to use custom settings again, will they remain in the memory?
I don't reset the settings I have been using - I will either move to one of the other two custom memories or simply move back to my Aperture priority or Movie shooting modes using the Shooting Mode dial. All my basic settings can then be accessed via my Fn menu and/or Control Wheel. The Memories will override most, if not all, settings you dial in when you are not using the memories as they are saved settings. If you change a setting while in the memory they will not be saved.
Do you have any videos on event photography?
It is a popular request so maybe I should make one. Problems people encounter at these events is appropriate choice of flash and focus settings. I would typically use a wide aperture prime such as the FE 1.4/35 or 1.8/55 to ensure fast AF or use an f/8 aperture and set a manual focus distance (and let the depth of field cover any issues with focus - same as in this Street movie). I would also set a manual ISO setting such as 1600 or 3200 so the flash is not having to work too hard and increase the amount of ambient atmosphere in the location.
This is a very old video, but still useful. I do have 2 question, though. At those ISO’s, there will be a lot of noise. How do you sell these images (more to the point...who will buy them) with so much noise and no model release. 8 personally don’t know anyplace that will buy them.
You don’t need a model release for street photography - never have. Nobody has the right to privacy in a public space. You can’t use the images for advertising but you can use them for editorial and journalism. If you don’t like the high ISO because you are using a crop sensor use f/11 and double the shutter speed. I have been selling images for 40 years since I was taught the Sunny 16 rule at college.
Mark Galer's Alpha Creative Skills I’m using a D850, although I do use a D500 for those situations where it is advantageous. I seem to have stepped on your toes, which I don’t understand, but if I did, I apologize. I sell a lot of stock images, so I’ve become overly sensitive to noise. In fact, I’ve gotten so sensitive to it that I’m having a really hard time just shooting. If the image isn’t noise free, or nearly so, it’s gone. I need to try to allow a bit of compromise into my work. I’m binge watching your older videos right now and enjoying them very much. Thank you for your reply and your videos!
According with my DOF calculator the A7 III at f16 with a 35 mm has an hiperfocal of 2,59 m. You talk about 4 meters. Its probably I had misunderstood something?
Depth of field is often calculated with ‘acceptable sharpness’ decrease the viewing distance, increase the output dimensions or the fact that you may have 30:20 vision and the calculations and resulting hyperfocal distance all change.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills you has been very kind with your answer, faster and rational. One thing that I like very much is learning something new every day. Many thanks and greetings from Barcelona.
I have the A7R3 with the 24-70 f4. When switched to manual focus I dont get a distance shown on screen as per your video. Is there another setting to switch it on or are you on the A9? (Great tutorials by the way, thanks)
Roger Cuthbert - The distance scale appears on all the Alpha camera in manual focus mode but only when you move the focussing ring.
Integrating the new features of 2018 new breed with the rules of street photography.
Hi Mark, can I use Prime lens 85mm 1.4G?
I sometimes use an 85mm wide open but this is a completely different approach to street than the one outlines in this video
Hi Mark, I’m wondering where you got the depth of field calculator? I tried the App Store but they didn’t list it.
Cambridgeincolour.com
1 other question Mark do you ever shoot in B&W (black and white) picture mode to better visualize the street shots? (RAW+JPEG mode) so that you can still get the full raw to edit later but have the B&W high contrast image pop up on the back to the camera and during playback?
It's not something I do but I am aware that it helps some photographers to set the Picture Style to black and white to help them 'see the light' as well as the subjects when shooting.
Hi Mark, why don't you use Auto ISO with a lower threshold of 400 ISO and high threshold of 3200 ISO?
I have known the exposure for sunny weather since I was 11 years old. I don't need to use Auto Exposure to guess a setting that I already know, with the added task of using exposure compensation when the camera guesses incorrectly.
nice tuto. is 1.5m min distance for sharpness remains unchanged with that 35mm when set to APS-C S35 mode ?
in 2022 with A74, would you still use that method ? I am using mode A, AF-C, half shutter (you recommend now vs AFON), min 1/200 sec, auto iso and F4...F5.6 with eye detection wide area. what do you advise ?
For extended support and guidance (things that can not be answered in a few sentences because the topic being discussed is complex) I recommend heading over to my Patreon support group Patreon.com/markgaler
@@AlphaCreativeSkills I m patreon now, I am going to look how to ask questions :-)
Hi - thanks for joining Patreon - please use the Patreon Q&A forum for future questions - you will have received an email when you joined Patreon with a video link that will show you how to navigate the Patreon site.
What If I have a 24-70mm ? the settings change?
These settings are weather dependent and don't have anything to do with choice of lens. If using a crop sensor you can use wider apertures. You can even use f/8 and f/11 and adjust the Iso and Shutter speed accordingly if the depth of field from using a wide angle lens is sufficient.
How do u c the back screen when the aperture is set at 16. I followed your instructions I was trying to shoot under cloudy conditions
If the screen was dark and the weather was cloudy the ISO had not been raised enough. Use the histogram for a ball park guide to when the ISO is correct if you are inexperienced at judging exposure by weather.
I’ve watched this more than once and get more out of it each time. But let’s say I want to set the lens focus distance and can only do so by rotating the barrel. It is very hard to pick gradations from about 3 meters and farther. Even picking 4 meters was hard. Any advice?
It is easier on some lenses compared to others - wish it was easy across the range.
Hi Mark, the shutter button on my A7Riii fell off. It must have been a replacement button when I bought it refurbished. Before I have time to get it repaired, could you tell me how I could change the settings to use a different button as my shutter? I unfortunately need to pull the button out of my pocket and place it in whenever I want to take a photo otherwise it will fall out. Thanks
You can’t assign another button as a shutter release so you will need to get the camera repaired
@@AlphaCreativeSkills thanks
Mark, do you know if its possible to tether an a7riii to an iPad Pro? I don't want to use WiFi as its so much slower than a cable connection. But so far I haven't been able to get the cable connect to work. Checked your website but didn't find it there. Thanks.
The remote software that is part of the Imaging Edge may not like some other software on your computer- I believe it doesn’t like some cloud services. As a location shooter I rarely tether and the last time I had to I went through Capture One.
good video. What about WBS?... Select auto?.. Thanks
If you are photographing in sunlight you may as well just pick daylight- as a Raw shooter there is no loss in quality by just picking it in post.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills thanks
Hi Mark. I have a question about the APS C S35 mode you mentioned in the video. Since I only own the Sony 24-105 f4 G lens at present and do mostly landscape photography, I was thinking of using the above-mentioned mode to increase the lenses reach to 150mm. Would the only negative effect be the lowering of the MP to 18, or are there others? Thanks.
zoe20641 - megapixel count is lowered from 42.4 to 18 and equivalent focal length and aperture are magnified by a factor of 1.5 - that’s all.
Why not just crop afterwards?
zoe20641 The SEL18-105 lens is already a crop lens so shooting in full-frame is not an option.
Hi Mark, What's the difference to setting the focus point to show infinity instead of 4 meters? Thanks
There is nothing at infinity in the street (unless it is a very long street). To maximise the depth if field when using a wide angle lens and the aperture stopped down you use the hyperfocal distance which is most likely to be at 7 meters or closer. The hyperfocal distance will provide you with a much closer focusing distance that extends to infinity.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills thank you
I’m going to try this today, a little scary.
Yes I have found this can be quite daunting for some to let go of all the auto settings but quite liberating when you realise that for certain things we really can just go back to Manual basics while speeding up our ability to capture a decisive moment.
Hi Mark. Under these settings I find a continuous blink of -2.0 on the MM. Is that OK? Thanks
That would indicate it is is not Sunny or something very dark is in front of the camera. If it's not sunny you have to raise the ISO.
My ISO is always 100-400. I like it that way.
How about the Camera Setting for Capturing Travel photo? Many of us take trip photo. The photo must be included the Portraits and Landscape etc. Thanks!
czcams.com/video/YyBdOnn-fws/video.html
Oh! Actually we really prefer the video style like Camera Setting for Capturing Street Photos, to explain more detail about the camera setting rather than only focus on what tripod, bag etc use in the trip. Thanks!
Travel is a broad topic so I use my landscape, portrait, action, movie and settings - not sure if you watched all the movie but there is more to it than just the packing.
I'm just a bit confused. If you're using manual focus, why do you also set autofocus settings?
It was an alternative option for people who don’t want to use Manual Focus
@@AlphaCreativeSkills Oh, cool - thanks for letting me know. Great videos, I'm just learning to use my A7ii, and have found them really helpful.
Hi . What happens when it's dark. What settings would one follow ? Thanks
I would switch to my Portrait settings which I outline in my eBooks and my Portrait settings video tutorials. My eBooks can be downloaded any becoming a premium Member of my Patreon support service: www.patreon.com/markgaler
Alright Mark. One thing though in both modes I find that the colour gets a bit dull ( on buildings etc) vis-a-vis the auto mode. This is in daylight ofcourse . Any suggestions?
Question: I went to shoot in downtown Los Angeles and it's completely sunny over 200 days a year here. However, when I was between two large buildings the exposure was very dark and so even though it was still fully sunny, I take it that I still should have bumped up the ISO in this case (if I want to keep my shutter speed at 400)? Also, is there a reason why f/16 is the starting point? I honestly like how some of my shots looked between f/4 to f/8. But then that completely changes the formula for the Sunny 16 rule so any help in that would be appreciated. Would I just lower my ISO as I go down in stops or would it be better to increase shutter speed or both? Thank you in advance for your help Mark!
The idea of the Sunny 16 Rule (I didn't make this one up) is that you do not think about exposure, focus, depth of field or whether your shutter speed is fast enough to freeze the subject. The camera is set up for the weather. Thinking about your camera settings removes your focus from the subject and the photographer's ability to capture the decisive moment. If you would prefer to shoot at f/11 or f/8 in sunny weather just make an allowance on the ISO setting - your depth of field will be narrower so the distance or immediate foreground will be unsharp on a full frame camera. If you are shooting at f/4 you will have narrow depth of field and will have to track focus on your subject - this is OK if this is what you want but it is not the Sunny 16 Rule as now you will be thinking about focus and not the subject. When walking from sunshine and shooting subjects with clearly defined shadows into open shade this tutorial directs you to make allowances with the exposure. Narrow alleyways (not open shade) would have to be judged from experience, metering or by making one or two test images to assess the appropriate exposure.
Following your tutorials, Mark, I have already stored the presets 1, 2 and 3 (P-A-L) in the camera and as backups in M1, M2 and M3. In this case "L" is handhold landscape. The video setup is saved in M4. One problem is, that with the shooting mode on Movie the Recall option does not become active, so I cant get the movie settings back from M4, if the camera - a Sony A7M3 - was reset for some reason.
The second problem is that Landscape on tripod can't be stored as all options are used.
I have even noticed that you have a separate setting for street photography. That is 5 settings for 3-4 storing options.
How do you work around that problem?
Carry a cheap memory card in your camera bag saving and loading M1-M4 settings. As soon as you have loaded a camera setting you can eject the memory card. In this manner you do not write to this memory card and there is no need to format the card.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills Ok, thank you. I knew it would force me to take notes ;O)
Does picture profile not matter when taking pictures?
Picture Profiles are applied to JPEGs and Movies only. You apply Profiles to Raw images in post.
Mark Galer's Alpha Creative Skills so no matter what pp it shows on camera, it'll always look the same when i open it in Lightroom? The picture will be flat?
Correct
Hi Mark, I'm experimenting street photography with the latest Interval Shooting function with my A7R III. I set AF w/ shutter = ON and I expected that focus was reacquired before each shot, but it looks like the focus of the first shot is used and never reacquired in subsequent shots. Is there a workaround to update focus before each shot when using interval shooting?
Focus between shots when capturing images for a time lapse movie is something that is not usually desired as it makes the resulting movie ‘shake’. This is possible, however, with an external intervalometer.
Many thanks Mark for your prompt reply. The goal of this interval shooting is not to make a movie, but to have a bunch of photos of people that may be at unpredictable distance from the “hidden” camera. BTW can you suggest the name of the intervalometer you are mentioning?
I mean 35x35/16x0,03 =2,56
What do I do for street NIGHT photography? I'm having trouble with night time photography settings.
Use a wide aperture lens (typically a prime) and in the Live View Display menu switch the Setting Effect to OFF. You will not be able to shoot with smaller apertures if you want the ISO to stay reasonably low. I would even consider shooting wide open at f/1.8 or f/1.4.
@@AlphaCreativeSkills thank you. I'll give that a try.
Why should one hazzle with the aps-c mode when you can crop afterwards? Makes no sense to me.
It is perfectly reasonable to crop in post - but there are three advantages that some photographers may find when shooting in APS-C mode. 1. We tend the frame or compose what we can see - so compositions can be improved by shooting in APS-C mode if the need arises. 2. If shooting with Lock-On AF tracking the PDAF points cover the entire frame when shooting in APS-C Mode. 3.If the images you are shooting are only ever going to be viewed on a 4K screen then shooting in 18 Megapixels instead of 42.4 makes a lot more sense when you only need 8.3 megapixels to fill the 4K screen.