@NextLevelAD Thanks! That's one of the things I love about this trade. Never stop learning new tips&tricks! It's actually pretty useful for relay testing. Pop out the relay and you should have good power on terminal 30. Test light should be nice and bright. Switch your test light lead over to battery positive and test terminal 87. It should find a path to ground through the device and your test light should also light. Probably not as bright though. But that will let you know your wiring is good. Not the full story of course but a quick step to give you an idea that things are looking good!
@walter.bellini Hey, sorry for the late reply. The thermal protection switch on these vehicles is just part of the control side. Here, I'm manually supplying power directly to the compressor's magnetic coil and seeing if it's capable of locking up. It wasn't able to lock up even with power directly to the coil so I know definitively it's bad and I don't need to look at anything else. If it did lock up then I would need to look at things like the thermal protection switch, evaporator temperature sensor, A/C pressure sensor, etc. I decided to go straight to the A/C compressor because they are so common to fail on these cars and easy to test.
@davemackenzie9393 Hey, sorry for the late reply. Nope. The thermal protection circuit for this compressor are the other two wires in that connector. They're actually part of the control circuit. The wire I'm on goes directly to the compressor's magnetic coil. So by manually powering it there you are already bypassing else. So by it not locking up you know it's a faulty compressor clutch.
I was looking at a friends car 2013 Honda crv and I did all the diagnosis and I check the magnetic clutch power wire and there’s power but the clutch won’t spin freely and it doesn’t turn when the car is in and call for cool is on. I’m assuming a bad Magnetic clutch. Any thoughts? Also on the gauges the low side goes to retard 110 psi plus and the high is at 175. This was with car on and off.
@torre3964 Correct. A 30 minute CZcams video explaining and showing the tools and techniques I use to diagnose an A/C complaint that happened to be a bad clutch. I could've made a two minute video of just finding the problem without saying or showing anything but I don't think that would have been very useful. Nor is it the kind of video I'm interested in making.
Very nice diagnostic approach. I especially like the info @ 26:08 which was a learning tip for me.
@NextLevelAD Thanks! That's one of the things I love about this trade. Never stop learning new tips&tricks! It's actually pretty useful for relay testing. Pop out the relay and you should have good power on terminal 30. Test light should be nice and bright. Switch your test light lead over to battery positive and test terminal 87. It should find a path to ground through the device and your test light should also light. Probably not as bright though. But that will let you know your wiring is good. Not the full story of course but a quick step to give you an idea that things are looking good!
@@eurbanautotech Thanks 👍
Also could have been the Thermal Protection Switch, so it should have been tested before replacing the compressor. Thank you
@walter.bellini Hey, sorry for the late reply. The thermal protection switch on these vehicles is just part of the control side. Here, I'm manually supplying power directly to the compressor's magnetic coil and seeing if it's capable of locking up. It wasn't able to lock up even with power directly to the coil so I know definitively it's bad and I don't need to look at anything else. If it did lock up then I would need to look at things like the thermal protection switch, evaporator temperature sensor, A/C pressure sensor, etc. I decided to go straight to the A/C compressor because they are so common to fail on these cars and easy to test.
Very useful information, thank you very much, God Bless.
Thank you for sharing this video.👍
Could it also have been the high limit switch and could it have been bypassed
@davemackenzie9393 Hey, sorry for the late reply. Nope. The thermal protection circuit for this compressor are the other two wires in that connector. They're actually part of the control circuit. The wire I'm on goes directly to the compressor's magnetic coil. So by manually powering it there you are already bypassing else. So by it not locking up you know it's a faulty compressor clutch.
Cost of ac lut 2007 honda crv
I was looking at a friends car 2013 Honda crv and I did all the diagnosis and I check the magnetic clutch power wire and there’s power but the clutch won’t spin freely and it doesn’t turn when the car is in and call for cool is on. I’m assuming a bad Magnetic clutch. Any thoughts? Also on the gauges the low side goes to retard 110 psi plus and the high is at 175. This was with car on and off.
You forgot to let us know how best to pull that sucker out!!!
30 Min. to diagnose a bad AC Clutch?
@torre3964 Correct. A 30 minute CZcams video explaining and showing the tools and techniques I use to diagnose an A/C complaint that happened to be a bad clutch. I could've made a two minute video of just finding the problem without saying or showing anything but I don't think that would have been very useful. Nor is it the kind of video I'm interested in making.
@@eurbanautotech theres always one dumb fk in the bunch. good job, thanks for the video is what torre3964 meant to say.