Oh ya, the reason I like the long format stuff is there are a LOT of little details that you just couldn't script which will come up live. And you might end up answering questions you didn't even know we had. All the best to you and yours.
The hood alignment with the header can be adjusted by backing off the core support bolts and moving it left or right. I ran into the same problem on a '69 Z-28 and it worked for me.
8 year old video but really helped with fender gaps on 67 Camaro. I also had issue with the heater block of plate causing too big of gap on passenger door
Great work as always. I will definitely be referencing these gaping vids when I get to this point in my project. I'm always down for some metal working vids. It would be cool to find an old fender that was busted up and metal work it.
Thanks, I imagine you are correct about that, I am so ready to get color on it at least all one color, it will make it seem like I am getting something done
yea i would like to see that video about metal working.Also i have a question.When you stick the motor and trans and all the other stuff in the engine bay will that change any of the gaps because of the weight on the front of the car just curious what you think. later
+265chevy no it should just lower the weight down on the springs . now if the subframe bolts aren't torqued up good that could cause it move for sure. He also bought sub frame connectors that I will weld in to keep the frame from moving and flexing, should be nice and solid . Thanks for the great question
Aren't Camaro front ends great to align, I've used a 2x4 many times! lol The Camaro I'm doing doesn't get inner fenders put back in so we'll see if that makes it easier or worse. Silver looks great...lol
I'm putting aftermarket fenders on a '99 Dodge Ram plow truck. It seems that the front frame around the radiator is too high and the results are major gaps at the bottom of the doors. I shimmed the fenders up at the hinge, but have lost the body line. Any tips? Great channel. Thanks.
Dean Winchell very hard to say without seeing the issue, I would make sure the body lines are right with everything and go from there since you can’t really modify them and they need to line up to look right , then I would look to the radiator support if that is what is out of whack and see how you can adjust it or modify to fit the fenders, or send them back and go to a salvage and pull original dodge parts if the fit right and the problem seems to be with the aftermarket parts .
Great metalworking, thanks for your explanations and advice given. I have the exact same situation as shown from 21:22 onwards. Which size are these solder rods? Thanks
So I'm still far behind on your videos and catching up when I can. If you haven't done your detailed dent video, let us know how we can encourage it. I would surely watch a multiple hours long live stream on Roger's How to Un-fuck Your Shit. For sure!
GET YER HOOD WARE IT NEEDS TO BE THEN WORK YOUR FENDERS AND HEADER OFF OF IT,ITS GOT TO LINE UP WITH YOUR COWL FIRST OTHER WISE YOU'LL BE CHASING YOUR GAPS ALL OVER FOR DAYS.
Oh ya, the reason I like the long format stuff is there are a LOT of little details that you just couldn't script which will come up live. And you might end up answering questions you didn't even know we had. All the best to you and yours.
The hood alignment with the header can be adjusted by backing off the core support bolts and moving it left or right. I ran into the same problem on a '69 Z-28 and it worked for me.
8 year old video but really helped with fender gaps on 67 Camaro. I also had issue with the heater block of plate causing too big of gap on passenger door
Glad it helped
Great vid Roger, gaps are looking good. Lots of work for sure. Would also enjoy watching a metal working video.
Thanks I may stop by the collision shop and pick up a damaged fender
Great work as always. I will definitely be referencing these gaping vids when I get to this point in my project. I'm always down for some metal working vids. It would be cool to find an old fender that was busted up and metal work it.
Thanks Russ, been watching your vid , I'm watching a bit at a time:)
Yea, Its a long one. Probably should have done a part 1 and 2
The fender gap looks real good now . I would like to see a vid on how to remove a dint by realising the bresear it makes sense should work real good
It could happen
Just curious what kind of thermostat is that and where to get it? Sorry if you have answered that before. Thanks
Gaps are looking good Roger. Oh I suspect that car will come apart several times before color is applied.
Thanks, I imagine you are correct about that, I am so ready to get color on it at least all one color, it will make it seem like I am getting something done
Primary damage and secondary damage removing tension heat shrinking and a body file u can do it
Do the dent removal video.
yea i would like to see that video about metal working.Also i have a question.When you stick the motor and trans and all the other stuff in the engine bay will that change any of the gaps because of the weight on the front of the car just curious what you think. later
+265chevy no it should just lower the weight down on the springs . now if the subframe bolts aren't torqued up good that could cause it move for sure. He also bought sub frame connectors that I will weld in to keep the frame from moving and flexing, should be nice and solid . Thanks for the great question
I'd love to see the metal working vids as well.
+rindress czcams.com/video/93xmkS-KxKg/video.html
Nice
Nice video Roger. Curious though, what is the proper name for that rod? I have been calling it welding rod, but I am not sure that is right.
E6013 welding electrodes
Here in Northern California its been in the 30's in the morning.
Brr
Take the hood latch out, line up your hood then line the latch up to the hood
I vote for the video
Cool
What’s the title of the book from the 60s you referenced?
Automotive sheet metal repair by Robert sergeant
Aren't Camaro front ends great to align, I've used a 2x4 many times! lol The Camaro I'm doing doesn't get inner fenders put back in so we'll see if that makes it easier or worse. Silver looks great...lol
Lol, thanks for watching Wendell
I'm putting aftermarket fenders on a '99 Dodge Ram plow truck. It seems that the front frame around the radiator is too high and the results are major gaps at the bottom of the doors. I shimmed the fenders up at the hinge, but have lost the body line. Any tips? Great channel. Thanks.
Dean Winchell very hard to say without seeing the issue, I would make sure the body lines are right with everything and go from there since you can’t really modify them and they need to line up to look right , then I would look to the radiator support if that is what is out of whack and see how you can adjust it or modify to fit the fenders, or send them back and go to a salvage and pull original dodge parts if the fit right and the problem seems to be with the aftermarket parts .
I can use some metal working tips.
Cool
easier to watch if the radio was turned off.
Yeah, I have a handicapped child that stays with me in the shop sometimes and she watches tv.
Great metalworking, thanks for your explanations and advice given. I have the exact same situation as shown from 21:22 onwards. Which size are these solder rods? Thanks
I believe they are 1/8” and 1/16” er6013 bought at Home Depot, knocked the flux off red scotch brighted them and good to go
@@MrFireman164 thanks man, heading for the shop now. Greatly admire your work on the '68
@@stevecanyon23 thanks 🙏🏻
So I'm still far behind on your videos and catching up when I can. If you haven't done your detailed dent video, let us know how we can encourage it. I would surely watch a multiple hours long live stream on Roger's How to Un-fuck Your Shit. For sure!
GET YER HOOD WARE IT NEEDS TO BE THEN WORK YOUR FENDERS AND HEADER OFF OF IT,ITS GOT TO LINE UP WITH YOUR COWL FIRST OTHER WISE YOU'LL BE CHASING YOUR GAPS ALL OVER FOR DAYS.
Thanks I think it's looking pretty good at this point, just need to tweek by he latch a bit