Honeywell Radiator Circuit Board Repair and Fault Determination
Vložit
- čas přidán 2. 08. 2024
- In this video, I share the repair of a Honeywell-branded portable, electric, digitally-controlled, oil-filled radiator, Model: HZ-709.
The failure symptom was simply that it would no longer turn on. It seems that its circuit board was cracked during a move to a new home, so I replace the damaged components and repair the broken traces to get it in working order again and identify a design weakness.
00:00 intro
02:03 teardown/disassembly and finding the failure
07:33 on the bench, review of the PCB repairs
13:43 second try (finishing the repair)
16:00 discussing the design problem
Related:
Repairing broken traces on a circuit board (Branchus Creations)
• Repairing broken trace...
How to Repair a Cracked or Broken Circuit Board (The Lightning Stalker)
• How to Repair a Cracke...
Repairing a Minor Crack On A Circuit Board PCB. Fix Repair Printed Circuit Board (NorCal715)
• Repairing a Minor Crac...
Honeywell Oil Radiator Heater Wouldn't Turn On. (Very) Easy Fix! (Measure Once Cuss Twice)
• Honeywell Oil Radiator... - Věda a technologie
Great repair! It is interesting how much these simple circuit boards resemble the traces and components of vintage motherboards!
True! Still, I was really glad it was just one layer. :)
I've repaired a couple Bose Wave radios that look a lot like contemporary computers (c. 2005).
Good stuff Dave! It's a good feeling to have thr skills and effect a repair. I love fixing things.
Thanks, TO - was a fun one - not too hard (just time ;) ), and glad it's not in the landfill.
Nice repair. I guess your friend owes you another lunch for fixing the radiator 🙂
He actually had no need for it anymore with the kids moved out and the new home they moved to, so I bought it for half the cost of replacement and now our guests will be cozy... if the house doesn't burn down. ;)
Lunch is his turn next time though. :)
Excellent!! Great job with the repairs and pointing out how it got damaged. I didn't see any fuses, if so it should be modified to have one. Thanks for sharing and will send my toaster to you :)
@@RudysRetroIntel Ha, one of the first things I ever repaired was a toaster [for my parents] when I was a child. :)
I cut it out for time, but notice how this is the *exact* same problem as with the Commodore 1702 monitor's cover for its controls... unprotected from impact from a common direction.
Even though I didn't understand EVERYTHING you were talking about, I really enjoyed watching the process unfold. I also enjoyed your thoughts on the design at the end. I found a beautiful looking INSIGNIA TV (packed neatly in its box) that powers on, but the screen does not illuminate. There appears to be a signal to the display (I can see images, very faintly, with a flashlight), and so I suspect there is a failure in the backlights somewhere. I have to pop it open to test it, but it's been sitting in my entryway for about a month now... watching this has definitely inspired me to give it a try!
Hi Matt - a pleasure to hear from you. Re: the TV, cool that you already did some diagnostic work; it is a common failure mode for these flat panel TVs that their LED backlights don't come on. There are videos on CZcams showing this repair including Adrian's Digital Basement "Trashpicked Samsung LCD TV Part 2: New LED Modules"
czcams.com/video/b9JjYIW2klE/video.html
BTW, I will be in your area for about 10 days from mid-next week. I'll see if you can meet up!
@@DrDavesDiversions, thanks! Yes, I did SOME work to diagnose the issue, and I THINK that's it. I have to take it apart and test the circuit on the strips, however. I don't actually have a tester, though, so I'll have to get one first... and I'm dragging my feet on that.
And, yeah, message me when you're in the area. I should have some time one of those evenings, or on the weekend, to get burgers and beer!
I've got to do some work on one of my HX-20s, I think the rs232c port isn't working and there's some pcb damage.
Do you happen to subscribe to "Hey Birt!" (channel)? He has done some nice hand-held computer-specific diagnosis and repairs that I've enjoyed learning from.
@@DrDavesDiversions Yes, his videos have helped me get started on fixing it up. Now I have to figure out how many bodge wires I need to fix the traces on my MOSU board, it's going to be quite a job. Hopefully I'll get it done next week.
@@DerekWilsonProgrammer Good luck! I have lots of projects swimming around for the holidays too.
I have a similar Honeywel unit vut mine does not have that safety switch that cam be reset...when I push the power switch an F appears on the left...I assume that means Fahreheit...that F. Stays in for 5 secinds and goes out and nothing else works...there are no cracks in the curcuit board and there slso is not s safety switch like the one on yours...any ideas?
Hi Bob - Hmm, it likely has some other kind of safety switch, possibly even mounted on the circuit board (to determine its orientation. The safety switch mine has is pretty janky and could fail to detect tip-over since it can get stuck). If it doesn't allow you to set the desired temperature or time until it shuts off, it sounds like a malfunctioning control board or a safety switch.
Please add another comment if you find the tip-over detection or make any headway. Good luck!
I kept trying to figure things out ...I gave up and took it to recycling this morning.
By mistake I've wrongly plugged in 220v. And now it's not working. Any possible component to be change and make it alive again? Is there any fuse that I can replace? I owned honeywell hz 789
Hi Azmer! Hmm, I didn't notice any fuses when I disassembled it.
4:36 At 4m36s in the video, I show the AC board which, from my understanding, does two things: (1) produces the DC voltage for the electronics and front panel (the DC board) and (2) contains the relays that send the electricity to the heating elements.
You could take a look at that board to see if any components are visibly fried. Also, you could test for the DC voltage from it at connector CN1. It would also be possible to remove/test/replace any of the small number of components on that board. The transistors and capacitors seem likely points of failure with the too high voltage input, but I a power supply expert.
All that said, I don't consider the AC portion safe for a novice to repair. I found the radiators cost about $80 to replace with a new model. With a working AC board, it would be easier to isolate which component(s) failed on the other one, and then repair it so you'd have two that worked.
That indeed is mechanically a very poor design. But it could've been made very sturdy if they'd used fiberglass PCB instead of this cheap brown stuff (Phenolic paper).
This was actually why fiber glass PCBs were invented, to resist flexing better, as it bends more than the Phenolic paper.
Interesting! Just the making of this video caused me to search online for, and read a bit about, the inventor/history of PCBs. I hadn't read about the materials beyond the initial inventions.
Aside: the project also taught me about "stop drilling" (from one of the PCB repair video links in description) to prevent the advancing of a crack: "A method of stopping the growth of a crack in a piece of metal or transparent plastic by drilling a small hole at the end of the crack. The stresses are spread out all around the circumference of the hole rather than concentrated at the end of the crack.
source: FAA Aviation Maintenance Technician Airframe Handbook (FAA-H-8083-31)"
Speaking of materials, do you happen to know why non-conductive insulating materials, like the card-board or card-board-like insulating sheets are often silver in color? e.g., between the AC and DC boards here, or, say, in some Commodore computers?
Is the silver coating to make it non-flammable? Or maybe its dielectric characteristics, I guess, e.g. for EMI.
It always seems funny to me to have a non-conductive layer be metallic looking. :)
@@DrDavesDiversions For electro magnetic radiation the colour isn't of any importance. I think that those aluminum foil covered cardboard shields were cheapest to make. Aluminium foil (actually it's very very thin rolled sheet metal I think) is cheap and it comes in silver colour. Atari for example actually uses sheet metal, which also is silver when not painted.
Painting it would cost money and using copper would be far more expensive and more prone to oxidization so you would need a coating on it, even aluminium is more expensive than that sheet metal.
The irony is, that these stupid RF shields are an American law. In Europe we didn't have that requirement, for computers, that's why you don't RF shields on Speccies and the Oddysees. This is why on the TIMEX ZX80 there's literally a big sheet of sticky aluminium foil on the top cover :D
FYI The colour of heatsinks does matter, black heatsinks sink about 33% more energy than just aluminium. This is why black heat sinks tend be used more in highend stuff (you pay for the anodyzing) but it does actually provide benefit.
@@DrDavesDiversions Fascinating! Makes sense! But I wasn't taught that in college.
Then again in 1990 when I started EE, we only used the fiberglass PCBs. And that is nasty stuff when you saw it, I once had what I thought a "metal splinter in my eye" . So I went to the doctor. She rolled up my eyelid and dropped some stuff into my eye that would apparently change colour when in contact with metal. That didn't happen. But she saw little abrasions on the white of the eye and look at the eye lid. And there was a sliver of fiber glass stuck in the eye lid. That she (eventually) plucked out with tweezers.
Funny side story she was a substitute and she was literally shaking when she was coming with the tweezers so close to my eyes and whispering: "I always hate being so close to the eye, always unnerves me". I wanted to say: "couldn't you just pretend to be cool about it?", but I was afraid I would move and get tweezers in my eye :D
@@CallousCoder hahaha .. Right, don't discuss how you are in the wrong line of work with your clientele! :)
Dentistry and soldering has some parallels; I was recently talking to my dentist about it. :)