"You see this curve here is going to make it much more precise for small holds" "oh interesting so tell us the advantage of having this curve" "well it's going to be much more precise on smaller holds due to the curve you see here which will make it more precise on small holds"
Just want to point out that the last is not the sole of the shoe, instead it is the mould the shoe is made on. An asymmetric last means an asymmetric sole, but they are not the same thing. Hope this clears up some confusion.
You should do a search feature that says expert and when you flip it open you can type in all of these features abd how you want them to find the right shoe.
I think a huge point about the differences in asymmetry was missed. For example, people that have Morton's toe typically will gravitate towards shoes that have a more symmetric toe box. The reason why is because more asymmetric toe boxes will either leave you in incredible pain due to hotspots or they'll have big air spaces.
Not only that, but also the difference between high volume and low volume feet/shoes. I can't for the life of me squeeze into a pair of hi-angles, I also can't fit my feet into the Red Chili Atomyc without cutting off blood flow and ankle mobility. However, the Skwama's fit like a glove/sock and are comfy AF. Not to mention different heel constructions and types of rubber (edging rubber vs smearing rubber).
Very useful information. Will it be possible to use filters for these attributes? It would be nice if every shoe available had a complete set of attributes (if I use any "Recommended Use" - filter, e.g. "Bouldering and Rock Climbing", the Andrea Boldrini Apache 5 disappears). So I still have to look at every single shoe because a filtered list might not contain every relevant shoe.
Nice, man. I'm also a copywriter that describes climbing shoes. It's a quite nice extra job I appreciate after writing about ham, milk or garden accessories. If only I could try all that stuff on, it could be even my full time job ;)
Hey MAtt, i don't know if you can help me. I have wide size 12 feet with Moton's toe (second toe longer than big toe)...pretty much all the things you don't want when looking for climbing shoes. (not to mention a couple of broken toes with a funny shape on one foot!) I have a pair of Boreal joker size 49 that fit (ish) but i would like something better and there seems to be nothing for me and my duck feet. They are really crapilly made and the stitching inside on the tongue hurts. Can you suggest some custom shoe makers this side of the Atlantic? I don't mind paying more, i'd just like a good pair that fit. - Or even make a video. Thanks for your help. keep up the climbing daily. me and my wife dig the show.
'volume' is the internal space inside the shoe, sometimes also a reference to how wide the shoe is. Have a narrow thin foot? you need a low volume shoe, broader fuller wider feet need a higher volume shoe.
Ok, quite interesting...BUT if you're a full time climber (i mean climb 3-4 days a week) shoes getting old so even the sensitivity change (from a 4mm sole after 2months you get a ~2 mm sole shoe ..). Also I learn some things from this video that i didn't know or worry about..(but i think they don't make much of a difference :) )
Justin B Pick the most comfortable (least painful) climbing shoes you can find. I found all climbing shoes kinda uncomfortable. In the beginning it’s all about getting used to putting body weight on our toes and shifting body weights around on the wall anyways. The shoes matter more at higher levels of climbing/bouldering routes.
5:28 it becomes quite noticeable that perhaps both mics are picking up his voice. I could be going crazy but I think there are sources being played simultaneously.
Hi Niels. They're the prAna Goldrush Pant. They're really comfortable and stretchy, and they come with a handy side zip-pocket as well as a cool design on the bottom hems when you roll them up. The only grievance I have is that they don't have an internal belt loop, so I have to wear my (one and only) belt with them! Cheers
... well with size 13UK/13,5US .... there is not much more than BEGINNERS Shoes ... that is discriminating! Q__Q Most "aggressive" Shoe I found so far was the SCARPA MAESTRO ...
Hahaha, all those specifics and choices are but a mirage. I hunt the entire world for months just hoping to find a climbing shoe in my size. It's literally take it or leave it.
WHY WHY WHY is the size of your foot depending on the time of the day never talked about? My foot in the morning is much, much smaller than my foot after hours of romping around. When we are talking about "sensitivity" and $H!T, we should be talking about having multiple sizes for different times. If I go to the gym in the morning, the sensitive shoe that fits if far different than the shoe that fits after an hour long approach up f'd up terrain... Just sayin'
Yeah, this video left a lot to be desired.You can't just say that "more asymmetric shoe = less comfortable". It depends on the shape of your foot, of course! In the end, it's whatever fits you that is best.
"You see this curve here is going to make it much more precise for small holds"
"oh interesting so tell us the advantage of having this curve"
"well it's going to be much more precise on smaller holds due to the curve you see here which will make it more precise on small holds"
ikr 😂
When you are turned out on a wall, your big toe (and all the rest) is raked forward to allow for easier placement.
Just want to point out that the last is not the sole of the shoe, instead it is the mould the shoe is made on. An asymmetric last means an asymmetric sole, but they are not the same thing. Hope this clears up some confusion.
It shapes the sole of the shoe and (ideally) conforms to the user's foot shape.
You should do a search feature that says expert and when you flip it open you can type in all of these features abd how you want them to find the right shoe.
I think a huge point about the differences in asymmetry was missed. For example, people that have Morton's toe typically will gravitate towards shoes that have a more symmetric toe box. The reason why is because more asymmetric toe boxes will either leave you in incredible pain due to hotspots or they'll have big air spaces.
Not only that, but also the difference between high volume and low volume feet/shoes. I can't for the life of me squeeze into a pair of hi-angles, I also can't fit my feet into the Red Chili Atomyc without cutting off blood flow and ankle mobility. However, the Skwama's fit like a glove/sock and are comfy AF. Not to mention different heel constructions and types of rubber (edging rubber vs smearing rubber).
Good point. I think I'll add this to the article. Thanks Ryan!
Hey Matt, do you have any videos about resoling your shoes?
Very useful information. Will it be possible to use filters for these attributes? It would be nice if every shoe available had a complete set of attributes (if I use any "Recommended Use" - filter, e.g. "Bouldering and Rock Climbing", the Andrea Boldrini Apache 5 disappears). So I still have to look at every single shoe because a filtered list might not contain every relevant shoe.
Hey something to know: rock shoes are not going to be comfortable. Just make sure that they aren’t painful
Nice, man. I'm also a copywriter that describes climbing shoes. It's a quite nice extra job I appreciate after writing about ham, milk or garden accessories. If only I could try all that stuff on, it could be even my full time job ;)
Great vid Matt, learned a lot. Loving my new Skwama. Now I understand a bit better why.
Very informative! Thank you!
Hey MAtt, i don't know if you can help me. I have wide size 12 feet with Moton's toe (second toe longer than big toe)...pretty much all the things you don't want when looking for climbing shoes. (not to mention a couple of broken toes with a funny shape on one foot!) I have a pair of Boreal joker size 49 that fit (ish) but i would like something better and there seems to be nothing for me and my duck feet. They are really crapilly made and the stitching inside on the tongue hurts. Can you suggest some custom shoe makers this side of the Atlantic? I don't mind paying more, i'd just like a good pair that fit. - Or even make a video. Thanks for your help. keep up the climbing daily. me and my wife dig the show.
I think that session told me everything I need to know. Nicely done, thanks
Lots of amazing information in this video, thank you!
amazing! so much information! love it. thanks so much
This video came out about a week too late XD
Just bought my new shoes from the EpicTV shop... still, even without the advice, very happy with them :)
I think it would have been nice for them to explain the differences between low and high volume, I seem to find different responses whenever I search
'volume' is the internal space inside the shoe, sometimes also a reference to how wide the shoe is. Have a narrow thin foot? you need a low volume shoe, broader fuller wider feet need a higher volume shoe.
Really interesting video, so many details brands put into their shoes I never thoguht about!
Ok, quite interesting...BUT if you're a full time climber (i mean climb 3-4 days a week) shoes getting old so even the sensitivity change (from a 4mm sole after 2months you get a ~2 mm sole shoe ..). Also I learn some things from this video that i didn't know or worry about..(but i think they don't make much of a difference :) )
So as a beginner what shoes should I get if I want to start practicing every type of climbing?
Justin B Pick the most comfortable (least painful) climbing shoes you can find. I found all climbing shoes kinda uncomfortable. In the beginning it’s all about getting used to putting body weight on our toes and shifting body weights around on the wall anyways. The shoes matter more at higher levels of climbing/bouldering routes.
It always makes me sad to see those Moonboard holds in the background on a normal wall. :(
? explain
good advice for my next buy!
great advice , thanks
What trousers is Jake wearing please - they look cool...
Great video!!
Hey Jake Which 5.10 shoes did you showed in the second example ,I mean the blue one?
The 5.10 hiangles, the women's are pink and yellow now, but the men's are still blue.
So the last shoe is ideal for bouldering? Im looking to purchase a pair of shoes strictly for bouldering. Anyone recommend a decent pair?
Get some nike janoskis
5:28 it becomes quite noticeable that perhaps both mics are picking up his voice. I could be going crazy but I think there are sources being played simultaneously.
If someone is a new to mid-level climber, what would you guys recommend???
Hey Jake, what kind of pants do you have? :P I think they look really cool and I'm looking for a pair of climbing pants.
Thanks in advance!
Hi Niels. They're the prAna Goldrush Pant. They're really comfortable and stretchy, and they come with a handy side zip-pocket as well as a cool design on the bottom hems when you roll them up. The only grievance I have is that they don't have an internal belt loop, so I have to wear my (one and only) belt with them! Cheers
... well with size 13UK/13,5US .... there is not much more than BEGINNERS Shoes ... that is discriminating! Q__Q
Most "aggressive" Shoe I found so far was the SCARPA MAESTRO ...
Classy host, mic the guests first. We already know what you sound like.
First things first...the last!
Hahaha, all those specifics and choices are but a mirage. I hunt the entire world for months just hoping to find a climbing shoe in my size. It's literally take it or leave it.
WHY WHY WHY is the size of your foot depending on the time of the day never talked about? My foot in the morning is much, much smaller than my foot after hours of romping around. When we are talking about "sensitivity" and $H!T, we should be talking about having multiple sizes for different times. If I go to the gym in the morning, the sensitive shoe that fits if far different than the shoe that fits after an hour long approach up f'd up terrain... Just sayin'
He talks about sensitivity.. what kind of socks do I wear some are thick asf I feel like it could make a difference
don't wear socks for max results.
No socks! They're supposed to fit like gloves
oh boy! Some very confusing and miss-leading terms here about basic shoe and climbing shoe terminology.
A Last is NOT the sole :D
your intro sound is pretty creepy
Yeah, this video left a lot to be desired.You can't just say that "more asymmetric shoe = less comfortable". It depends on the shape of your foot, of course! In the end, it's whatever fits you that is best.
LOL. he said the high angles are comfortable. Sorry i can not agree witht that. Good video though.
They feel great to me. Only Five Tens that aren't horrific imho ;)
guess it depends on the foot the shoe fits.. what is your "Cinderella" shoe?
Exactly. I have a very high arch so for me they are comfy, low arch feet people would probably disagree
You don't wear mittens to climb why wear shoes?
Fuck knows, I climb naked