Is this the FASTEST way to scribe a skirting board??
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- čas přidán 26. 01. 2022
- A how to guide on How to scribe a skirting board in 1 minute 14 seconds. Coping / scribing skirting / base boards can be done in a variety of ways. This is the way that I use. Maybe you can scribe a skirting board more efficiently? If so, I would love to hear about it in the comments. What do you think is the fastest way to scribe a skirting board?
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A grinder with a 40/60 grit flap disc is 3 times faster.
@@TheShockndrop Thank you for your reply. I have seen that done before. It certainly is faster and I believe that the reason a lot of people don't use that method is purely because of the dust. Doing it outside would be fine but when people work inside, this would be catastrophic 😂. Some grinders have guards with a built in dust port but this would need to be removed to sand the intricate profiles of the skirting. Maybe I might build a dust box which fits over the end of the board that the dust port connects to and do a video on this. This is one of the reasons why I started this channel. To get feedback from people so we can then all develop and improve. Many thanks.
Brilliant! I tried using a coping saw, results were ok, but your method sooooo much better!
This is so much faster than the coping method that I always see people using.
In production base you'll see guys cut upside down so they don't have to twirl long pieces of material around and upside down to make that second cut with the saw. Also there's no need to back cut so far - you can think about it like a profiled butt joint. Theoretically you can make that cut at 90 but I usually swing about 5 degrees over which accounts for the wall being out of square. Also I take the triangular point off the top with a square cut as well.
If you cut crown in position, which is upside down and backwards, it also helps to cut base upside down so you aren't turning your brain around all the time. So your left hand cuts are always made on the right and vice versa. Helps those of us that need all the help we can get.
Brill thanks alot, couldn't get on with a coping saw, after watching your video and buying myself a file this method was a doddle, excellent cheers
Nice tips. I like the flap disc option instead of jigsaw also. Sands it all on one also.
How do you find it is regarding dust? It is something that I want to try.
@@christopherinteriors6521 To be fare its a mess, but just do it outside when the neighbours have their washing hung out to dry and you'll be fine. I like the idea of making the cut on the saw. Would make that even quicker on the disc.
I always used to do two 45 angle ends. This is only one end to cut, im gonna try this!
Excellent technique and outcome.... I subcribed and liked your vid.... I'm running a bunch of base today and plan to use your cutting technique..... RJ
Thank you so much sir. This is exactly what I have created a CZcams channel for, to show different ways of doing things and hope that people might take something from the videos every so often. Good luck with the base boards, rather you than me 😂
Love this! I like the old school coping saw for skill share. I use a small grinder that does what the jigsaw and file do in one. Drooping that upside down cut on the miter box is sweet.
coping saw often quicker than the jigger, cleaner too, but I guess we must be close to 200 ways to peel a moggy by now. nice vid.
I like to back cut with the miter saw too; all the way down the straight part. Then I just finish with a coping saw. Unless I have a table saw set up too for some reason, then I use the table saw to cope the details. That way is super fast and clean
I think I get what you mean. So for the scribe you take the fence out of the way and freehand it head on into the blade? I guess as the blade makes a rounded cut then it would be back cutting too! I might give that a go if I have my table saw set up at a job next time.
Thanks for sharing! Defo' faster than I am with a coping saw. I have to say, though, that do most of the cut like you - using the mitre saw, or a hand saw to avoid hassle with the 'dust police' - and then finish with the coping saw. I've seen guys onsite using the jigsaw with that funky base, but just couldn't get on with it. I'll have a go at trying your technique and see how it goes.👍
Thank you for the comment. I have tried one of those bases before but I didn't get on with using a jigsaw from underneath. I don't do a huge amount of skirting as I make and fit kitchens/furniture. I don't even own a coping saw. It seems like a lot of carpenters are doing it the way that you say with using the mitre saw and then the coping saw. If I get hold of a coping saw I might have a try with one and see how I get on.
Good one dude, I always use this method, v. quick, great vid , thanks
I do it the same way, except for the profile part i still use a coping saw. I find i can get a finished scribe easier and quicker than using a jigsaw/ file etc.
I have had some skirting boards which the profile is just too intricate to get a jig saw in there. It took me a long time though. This is the beauty of woodworking, there are so many different ways to achieve the same result. We need to find the best way that works for ourselves.
Nice video mate. I do it exactly the same way . The only difference is I use a barrel grip jigsaw with a coping foot on it which I highly recommend.
I agree that they are good. If I did more skirting then I would look at a coping foot myself. Although I make kitchens, clients are wanting me to do more and more skirting and other carpentry work so I'll see how I go with that. Thanks for the great comment.
@@christopherinteriors6521 Ever tried a trim router?
@@markbernier8434 not for scribing skirting boards I haven't. Does it work well? I assume you would still cut the straight part on the mitre saw and then use the trim router on the profile?
I like it
Thank you Mr Orwell
just draw the profile on the back of the board instead and cut it that flat side with a jigsaw(even basic hand saws and a junior saw can do it)... job done! :)
no need to faff about making mitre joints to find the profile. even a template can be made cutting just a couple mm's off the end of the board if needed
countless same mitre saw scribing technique videos on youtube yet I can't find one that does it the super quick and easy way I do it as described
my way literally outlines what needs to be done I can't believe it's not the norm lol
It would still need to be back cut otherwise it would only work if the wall is exactly 90 degrees. In that case you might as well mitre the joint.
I do get your concept and for a new build home, built by decent builders then the corners would likely be around 90 degrees when using drywall.
I specialise in old farmhouses where the corners could be 60 degrees with a curved wall which runs uphill.
Maybe I will do a video on that when I need have to do some skirting so people can see.
@@christopherinteriors6521 ???? ...thats the whole point of a scribe cut instead of a mitre cut for joining 2 boards... to compensate for movement and angles lmao
just tilt the blade or(and) draw the lines appropriately to the angle needed to compensate for the vertical join then cut the line. if anything you get a more correct join scribing the back.
I've seen chipys faff about doing your way and I've just took over doing the multiple joints and got them on the chop saws or easier stuff as they waste the work time for others.
I've ripped out old victorian and older(old houses are known for unevenness(not all walls are 90 degrees) and as to why scribe joints are often used) boards with the pencil lines still on the backs from where they readjusted it for the length of the boards for the final cut with past chipys doing it the way I've always known how.. I've done many curved corners where I've had to steam bend/form boards. at the end of the day the final cut no mater the angle of the joint is just just the same as a 90 degree if the line angled free cut is prepared/done right. I usually just tilt my scroll bladed jigsaw left or right for the whole cut for the joint needed and I get a snug perfect cut fit every time in under 30 seconds, if that. as I can run it along the flat surface.
doing this inefficient mitre technique on more detailed intricate routings must be a headache involving loads of sanding doing it that way. asking for a bodge job done with caulk/wood filler needed lol
I guess I'm oldskool and experienced. too many novices on youtube these days claiming to be experts
like the old saying 'if you want to find a quicker and more efficient way of doing something then just get a lazy person to do it'
get yourself some high quality thin scroll blades for your jigsaw. as you used chunky standard blades for the cut in the video
as it sounds like you need to often do bespoke cuts on old places as you said then this type of blade is a god send
@@datboi380 I don't often as I am not a carpenter as such, more of a bespoke furniture maker. Thanks for the advice though. Sorry I was getting a bit confused and thought you meant do a straight cut on the back of the board.
Could you please tell me what model Dewalt mitre saw that is please? Fantastic video and very helpful, I’m really struggling to choose a mitre saw to in my skirting, I want to be able to cut with enough clearance so the skirting is placed in the upright position the same you cut in your video.
If you could recommend a few mitre saws I’d be ever so grateful.
I’m almost about to buy a Festool KS 120 but it’s so expensive, I just really want a mitre saw with enough clearance and cuts perfect mitred out of the box, that’s under £500.
Ideally I’d prefer a mitre saw that has the handle facing the opposite way than yours is facing.
Thank you, all the best.
this is the Dewalt dws780 mitre saw. They are amazing saws but a bit heavy if you are taking it out of the van, up a driveway, through a house and into the garden to make one cut 😂
The best thing I ever saw for this is the angle grinder especially on MDF.
I totally agree. The only issue with that is the dust but I might make a contraption in a future video to combat that.
Would be really interesting and helpful to see a close up, to literally see the blade when it’s cutting the moulded part of the skirting, nobody on CZcams has done that yet I think, not that I’ve seen, would also make for a great short video, I recon it’d get quite a few views, if you gave it a catchy name. I know I’d really appreciate you posting a video like that. Out of all the methods and videos I’ve seen I’ll be watching and trying your method and video first.
It might take a bit of trial and error positioning the camera, but something nobody’s captured yet on film and posted.
Thanks for the video.
Personally I would say back cutting at 45 degrees is way too much especially on mdf as the edges are easily damaged, needs no more than a few degrees. The top of the scribe should just be cut straight down to butt up against adjacent section.
I agree there's more than one way to skin a cat but this method isn't significantly quicker than using a coping saw and creates a lot more dust!
Does the 45° cut still work with a cope when the top profile is set further in than the bottom straight part of the skirt
Yes as long as you still only back cut the flat portion of the skirting. On the particular skirting board that I cut in this video, parts of the profile were set in further than the straight part. For example, underneath the round on the profile, the v groove part underneath is further back than the straight bottom part. Hopefully that makes sense.
Cut it with a 45° angle with a miter saw then use a coping boot for your jigsaw
I did actually mention that in the video. I have tried one before with a Mafell jigsaw but I wasn't the biggest fan, mainly as the jigsaw weighs a ton. I am tempted on trying one again on whatever jigsaw I buy next time though. Thanks for the comment Jason.
I would rather use a copping saw
It is interesting to see so many people using a coping saw and so many using a jigsaw.
Do your best and caulk the rest
Your copes would look much better and it'd be even FASTER if you used a proper coping blade for that saw.
I think I mentioned the blade in the video. They could be faster although I would still fine tune the cut with the file.
@@christopherinteriors6521 Not that they "could" be faster. They ARE faster. WAY faster. Sorry I missed you mentioning the blade. I just viewed a couple clips as 8 minutes is way too much video for this subject.
@@SomeDumUsrName too long for you, too short for others. It is personal preference but out of interest, how long would you prefer my videos to be? The reason why it is longer than you wanted is because not everyone is a professional. A lot of people are attempting DIY and need as much info as possible. It isn't possible to make a video to suit everyone sadly. Many thanks
@@christopherinteriors6521 If your goal is to have as many views as possible - which, let's face it; it IS - then this video is TOO LONG. All the necessary information can be conveyed in under half the time. For one: One doesn't need to be a professional to understand it and, for two: They DIY public's attention span is very short. Your analytics will prove this to you.
You could be faster if you cut the base upside down
Thanks for the comment. I am interested to hear more about this?
Basically if you are right handed all copes will be on left side of the base. Cut the base on a 45 degree upside down. Swing the saw over to the first detent which I think is 15degree and cut down until the profile is not straight. Then finish the rest with coping saw. This way helps so you don’t have to flip long material in the house and scratch walls and ceiling.
Thank you. I will give this a try next time I do skirting, although it isn't that often. I don't often do much cutting inside houses as people are always living in them but I am glad that you pointed out the ceiling issue. This is one of the main reasons that I made this video, because I like to see other people's ways of doing things, in hope that I can add tweaks to my own techniques. Thank you very much.
Why not use a coping saw. Hate to be paying you by the hour to second fix my jobs
Because I find this faster and also using a file can help me fine tune scribes to get them absolutely perfect. You would never want to pay me by the hour anyway. My idea of woodworking is slower, with passion, care and accuracy. I have worked in the high-end kitchen industry for most of my life. It is a different game all together. You wouldn't ever catch me on a building site these days. It sounds like you have lost your passion in favour of fast money? Nothing wrong with that and I am not saying that my way is better, just it's a completely different style of woodworking.
@@christopherinteriors6521 I'm very passionate about my work and extremely busy . I'm ideal way of working is speed and accuracy.
@@endalynch6877 I am glad and the best of luck to you. Speed doesn't come into my line of work. I was just explaining a big difference between our industries.
@@christopherinteriors6521 j