Oven Won’t Heat? Bake/Broil Element Testing, Troubleshooting
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
- Oven won’t heat, won’t bake evenly or won’t turn off or on? This video demonstrates how to test a bake element and/or a broil element on an electric oven. The bake element and the broil element are the most commonly replaced parts for an electric oven that is not working, won't heat or not baking properly.
Other commonly replaced parts for an electric oven that is not working properly are:
Oven main control board
Oven thermostat
Click here to purchase a replacement oven heating element:
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How to disassemble your oven:
• Frigidaire Electric St...
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All of the information provided in this part testing video is applicable to the following brands:
Frigidaire, GE, Jenn Air, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Magic Chef, Maytag, Thermador, Whirlpool
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It would probably be helpful to watch the electric range video that is linked in this video's description. It will give you an understanding of how the range works and will help you troubleshoot your problem.
Please help PLease please..... I have a bosch HEI7282U/09
Problem - Conv Broil, conv Roast, broil does not heat up (very slow)
- Bake works fine
- Conv Fan works
Work Done - Replaced back round element (new=56 ohms, no Continuity), seller says that is the expected range
- Replaced Top Element (new=17.5 ohms, good continuity)
What should could be the problem? Many thanks
Lily Jameson, If neither the broil or bake elements heat up then the oven control may have been damaged when the broil element shorted out. We would start with replacing the element that you saw fail and retest.
My element only shows 16-17 ohms, while the other element and another new one I tried both show 24-25. The problem I'm having is low heating of the bake element; most of the heat seems to be coming from the upper element.
LG convection oven from 2012. This has been an intermittent problem for years, this being the first time I have noticed a low resistance in that element (I have tested it before).
1:25 -- That's what I wanted to know. Someone, or some video, (or my imagination??) suggested that elements can be tested from the back of the range without removing them. After checking for faulty wiring at the back I'll move on to removing the elements.
It's rough keeping an old stove going ...
- Reg
Really good video. Helped me out testing these heating elements. Thanks.
Thank you for explaining it in such easy way.
Glad you liked it!
One of the wire terminals burned off the light bulb wire (someone didn't turn off the breaker after i told them to!) I have a 16 gauge terminal, but it looks like the light wire actually has a 22 gauge. The terminal fits but the wire doesn't look as snug. Also the terminals look like a different color, not sure if the old terminal color due to oxidation. Does the new terminal have to be a special type, or are any terminals okay?
Kenmore Electric Dual Oven/Broiler. ( Small Broiler works, Small oven element does not) + Big Oven AND Bib Broiler don't work. Is this a control panel issue in back of stove? Separate switches for each? Agree still need to remove elements and test for continuity.
Hello Thank you for the video I replaced my element put it back in and test the oven in the lower element in the oven still doesn't work it's a Frigidaire what would be the next step sir
What element did you replace - the broil or the bake element? I may be having the same problem with my Frigidaire stove. The broil element works fine, but the lower one does not. I took the lower one out and it tested out fine with an ohm meter reading. I'm thinking it may be the oven thermostat that's half bad. I'm not sure how to test it, though, as it's working fine for the broil element fine, it seems, but the bake element is not coming on at all. Did you ever figure you're out?
Thanks.
Clear and directly to the point. thank you sir
other videoS says must read between 30 to 100 ohms , WHOM WE HAVE TO RELY?
How to open a diffy bottom oven element
Great video!!!! Very helpful but what do you So when the wires go back in the panel. I disconnected the bad heating element but the connecting wires went back in the panel.
Okay, my element has a reading of 20 ohms, and it works, but something is causing my terminal block on the back of the oven to melt at the black wire. I get the smell of melting plastic when the oven is used, and no smell when the stove top or broiler is used. Another video just told me that my continuity should be between 30 to 100 ohms for good continuity. Is there a specific sweet spot for continuity to be at on certain heating elements?
The oven is 20 years old, and the oven has been used at least once to twice a week religiously. The oven in the past two years seems to take longer to heat up. Could my heating element for my oven be bad event though the multi meter reads the heating element at 20 ohms?
I have an old Kenmore range. Broil works fine but when I try to bake the lower element won't get hot until I turn the temp knob to around 425 degrees and it stays on. In other words, it acts like its "broiling". What would this indicate? Thanks
I have a dbl oven. the bottom works well but the top doesn't. I set to the temp and it doesn't glow even on broil the top element doesn't turn on. if one is bad will the other turn on or no???
Can a faulty broil element cause the bake element not to heat?
Bake element shows continuity. Oven quit after a loud pop.
Asking for someone else. Told him to check broiler also.
Nice work. Chinese Heating Tube Manufacturer says hello to everyone.
Took an resistance and connected to 220v why it isn't glowing as it would on the oven, know why? Trying to built a cocktop to my shed... it heats but not much as normally would. Also didn't saw any capacitor on the oven I scraped it from... any clue?
Hi. Is it ok to test the elements while still in the stove? I can access the ends of the elements from the back of the stove. Thanks for your help.
If the wire connectors burnt off your old element than you can replace them with our item #240984.
My broiler element sparked, and I even saw flames for a few seconds the other day. It freaked me out. ;) Now when I tried to use it again, neither the light nor the broiler element work. The oven element still seems to be working fine, as well as the stove top. Do you have any idea why this would've happened? Do you think it's safe to just replace it? I'm worried that it could happen again, and that I won't see the flames right away the next time. And what about the light? Thanks!
The broiler on my accubake oven wouldn’t work for years. But yesterday I noticed it was on and I didn’t put it on, and I can’t get the broiler to go off unless I unplug the oven itself Any ideas ?
Will it raise your electric bill if you use the top part while the oven is burnt out
Nice lesson.
Continuity tests. Lesson numero uno/ichi.
👍👍 Thanks
You're welcome!
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I replaced the electric oven bake element and the new one only glows about 3/4 way around. Cannot figure out why. I replaced it with another new one and the same problem existed. Is there something else wrong with it?
Scott McKimmy We would suspect that you have an incoming power problem. Electric ovens and ranges use 240VAC to operate the heating elements. Check out our How it Works video for additional information. www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/Range-Stove-Oven-Repair-Help?TLSID=1773
I get it, the testing, but everything is according your video, but the minute I switch the oven the power " earth leakage" trips out. A normal tester says there is nothing wrong, but cannot read the problem going to earth. I have been told to throw them out. He used another gadget that says they are faulty.
I am somewhat surprised checkibg for a short in the elements was not shown.
That just linked back to an identical video.
How do you remove the element from the oven? I removed the screws from the plate holding the element to the wall of my GE oven, but when I pull it comes out a bit but is still attached behind some sort of insulation or batting.
Hi my oven stays on till i turn the temp dial. Once turned, it will heat up the element for 5 mins n trip the whole hse. I have tested for both top n bottom elements n it happens for both elements. So is it the dial? I have checked for continuity for the elemtnts n there is reading for both elements. Pls advice its a brandt oven.
We had an electric problem and had to replace our electric boxes outside.When our electric flickered one morning the oven and clock quit working on our stove, not sure what it is.This electric kenmore stove is about a year old.Any suggestions?
Thx!!
Thank you. This was very helpful. Now off to my oven for a test. :)
Good luck!
the wires that connect to the bottom element on my whirlpool oven are (1 of them) completely burnt and broken. the element is relatively new and tests fine with an ohms Metre. any ideas what's causing the burnt wires? should I simply replace them. There is no arching going on at the element. they don't touch anything.
+David M A burnt wire is often the result of a loose connection.
I have a amana oven and the bake does not function properly. I already replaced the burner and still does bpt work properly. when I set a desired temp it heats up but then it doesn't keep the temp. could it be the temperature sensor? or the thermo fuse?
+bahahopovac We would suspect a sensor problem. Most models don't have a fuse and if they do it causes a no heat symptom. czcams.com/video/vWJOLFW2aw0/video.html
My oven element looks physically very nice but when I do continuity check, I get a reading of 150ohm on the outside ring and 84,8 on the inner ring. Does this mean that the element is bad?
elliex20 No. That is good. Unless you had no continuity the element is probably fine.
***** Thanks
Our oven's element broke as in the video, but the whole oven/stove is not working now. No lights, nothing. Could something else also have broken or will it work again if I replace the element?
Nadia Jordaan The circuit breaker the oven is on may have tripped. If not, the oven control is likely defective.
Replaced the element and everything is working again. Thanks so much
Nadia Jordaan Good to hear. Thanks.
On our website there is a section that gives symptom and part driven repair help. This is in addition to our videos and should be able to help you determine what exactly is wrong with your range. Enter your range's model number into our website and you'll be on your way!
Really it's going to be hard to diagnose what is going on without taking anything out. Use the repair help section of our website, input your model number, pick your symptoms and use that as a guide for what to test first. Let me know if you have any more questions!
brand is frigidaire. model, FFEF3043LSK. SERIAL, VF35172326. bake stopped heating in middle of cooking. tried broil, it didn't work either. lights work, clock, timer, and stove top all work. there is continuity for the three prong outlet and both heating elements. when I try to turn on both bake and broil I can hear a clicking sound behind the controls...like it's trying to kick on. I'm trying to narrow down the part. is it a fuse, thermostat, switch, or control panel?
+Stefan Juengst If the stove top element work, but the oven does not then the control board is likely defective. www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Oven-Control-Board/316455400/1194732?TLSID=1773
I have a kenmore elite double oven model 66598009701, ovens do not work, stove top does. Can the control panel be repaired or do i have to replace it with a new one.
Tom Waddell The oven control cannot be repaired. The control board will likely need replacement. www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Oven-Control-Board/5777M25160/1544022?TLSID=1773.
Our GE electric oven had a short while preheating the broiler. Strong burnt electrical smell afterwards. Lights and fan dimmed and flickered in a bathroom on the other end of the house on a seperate circuit. However there are no signs of damage anywhere in the cooking area of the oven and the clock and cooling fan still functioned before turning off the breaker. The broiler element tests at 16ohms, the heat sensor tests at 1.060kohms. Any ideas? I'm hesitant to turn the breaker on and try the broiler element again until I know why it shorted.
The ohm reading on the broil element is ok but you need to check from the terminals to the outer case of the element to see if the element is shorted. If you don’t show a short to the case or see a visible hole blown In the element I would trace the wires back and see if you can find a burnt or shorted wire. The sensor reading you gave also looks ok. Follow the smell. Find where the smell is coming from and you will find the problem.
The heater of my stove Don't whant to work
You missed a point. My oven bake element had continuity but the connectors had shorted to the outside metal part of the burner. AKA - Shorted to ground.
Nice video to learn. By the way. If you are looking for a supplier of heating pipes, contact me
If the ohms is zero, how would it even heat up. There should be some resistance.
Zero ohms represents no resistance, ie, full continuity of electrical flow - which is great! That means it's working properly with no break in it; it's not burnt out, but should be working normally.
@@steveandrews8301 : That isn't correct. All heaters should have some resistance, it's how they heat up. If there is nearly no resistance than it's shorted, which is bad.
@@noumenon6923 Good point. I stand corrected. Thank you.
@@noumenon6923 So what then is the lowest permissible resistance for an electric oven element, and it still be good, do you suppose? Mine is at 20ohms and is not working. I’m wondering what’s at fault, it, or perhaps the oven thermostat switch? Thanks.
@@steveandrews8301 : It depends on the oven wattage and how many heating elements there are. I think only one element heats up for normal use, and two for broiling or cleaning cycle. The normal range is between 20 to 50 ohms, so that 20ohm element should be getting hot if on. Ohms = volts^2 / watts,.... so assuming 220 volts and 20 ohms, the wattage should be about 2420. Your oven might list at full power with all heating elements on though.
help! the broil will work but bake won't and we replaced the element but still won't work
+fasial king The control is likely defective or there is a bad wire in the circuit.
Well the wire went black so that's what I need to fix.thanks
+fasial king You're welcome!
What to do when broil come on and bake won't i replaced the element
@@repairclinic I have the same problem with my Frigidaire oven; the top element works but the bake element doesn't. The ohm reading to the bake element is around 20 ohms, which I assume means it's good.. Volts to the baking element two wires, with oven off, is 26 volts and when switched on, is 40 volts (still not enough to power the lower element). What could be causing this, and why is there any voltage to it, at all, when off? Faulty thermostat that's only "half" working? Thank you.
Hi I have an oven Moulinex0x173230 and I have to replace the botton heating element. Cannot find it anywhere in the internet. Is it possible to fold (and cut, if needed) another model to fit in the original place?
You can view replacement videos on our website (link in the description). If you type in your model number you'll find the heating element for your range. There should be a replacement video on that page.
oven current le raha hai or plate bhi ghoom rahi hai but heat nahi
Kenmore Electric Stove(40 years old and not found in database). Updating Part # 30031 Receptacle repair kit that did not come sheet metal screws for bracket. Can you tell me the specification for the sheet metal screws for a Frigidaire/Kenmore Electric stove. Stove Part # 629 944 7910.
Damn oven isn't even 2 years old.....bought brand new..
You’ll find free, model-specific troubleshooting and how-to help in our advanced, easy-to-navigate Repair Help system on our website. Please see the link in this video’s description. We hope the repair goes well!
Cheaper to buy a new oven