If you need a new heating element you can find an exact match on our website: www.amresupply.com/catalog/Elements-Bake-and-Broil - Enter your model number into the main search to find the exact OEM replacement.
You're welcome, thank you for the subscription! If you're curious we have more oven repair videos here: czcams.com/play/PLCo9SMjkdWBysYYCcg5xQLiVh_cW0JQvt.html
You're welcome! As well we've just released a few new videos on oven and stove repairs that you might find helpful. Oven won't heat- Troubleshooting: czcams.com/video/96s7maybHlY/video.html Oven element testing & replacement - czcams.com/video/ABope7vl5IY/video.html
Thanks for watching. If you test on the bare metal then you'll get a similar resistance. If you test the part that glows (which is the cover) then you won't get a resistance reading. The heating element is actually a small wire inside and the outside is not the path for electricity to flow through. If you do get resistance between the terminal and the frame or the outside of the heating element, then that means that it has shorted.
*Note* Some higher wattage elements can have lower resistance values than 30 ohms. You can use the wattage and the power (240V) to determine the resistance value of your heating element: www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/ohms-law-calculator.html Formula for manual calculations: Voltage Squared / Wattage = Resistance 240 x 240 / 3500 = 16.46 ohms
Thank you for watching. As long as you unplug the unit from the wall, and the power is disconnected then you can remove the wires and test the element from the terminals on the back without remove the heating element.
I have a Faberware 1500w double cooktop. The large burner & indicator light stopped working so I opened it up to check things with my digital VOM. I got .2 resistance on the working small element and 0 on the inoperative large element. The small element works like a champ so what's with the low reading?
Hi Bill thank you for watching. Non-load components like switches or thermostats will have resistances of 0-1 ohms while heating elements are around 20 - 40. If you get a reading of less than 1 ohm first make sure that the element is completely isolated, disconnect all wires etc, so that you are not getting any interference. Also it is worth checking to see if the element has shorted to ground. Test from each terminal to the outside of the heating element to see if you have continuity. If there's continuity then the element has shorted to ground.
@@AmreSupply I isolated the element and it shows zero resistance with no short to ground. Can't locate a replacement so am considering replacing it with a standard stove top element and drip pan .
@@billwilson3609 yes those replacement burners are not commonly sold. Keep in mind a standard stove top element requires 240v and might not work as a replacement as most portable cooktops run off 120v.
Hi Charles, thank you for watching. Good question. Using the continuity setting works great but not all multimeters have the continuity setting, so in this case we decided to show the test by just using the resistance setting.
Some digital multi-meters will not alert/give off an audible tone is the circuit has too much resistance. For example, the one I have at work will not emit a tone at anything above 10 ohms. The one I have at home (different brand) will emit a 'good circuit' with up to about 1kohm. By using the resistance reading, you won't get a 'false open' if your DMM is a bit finicky.
My oven made sparks and smoked, the bake setting doesn't work, but the broil setting and all 4 stove top elements work, what would be the problem?? Single mom, needs a handy man suggestions!
Hi Marlene, thanks for watching! What you are describing is that your bake element likely burnt out. If you notice any visible blistering or defects on the side of the element, then that's a good indicator that it failed as well you can test the element following the steps in this video. If you need a replacement bake element then you can enter your oven model number into the AMRE Website to get a parts breakdown with your exact match listed on the side. www.amresupply.com/findmodel/range
Hi my oven stays on till i turn the temperature dial. Abt 5mins into heating it breaks the circuit to the hse. So is it the element or the dial? I have tested for both the top n bottom elements n it happens for both of it. Pls advice.
Hi Steven, it sounds like the temperature control switch is malfunctioning or it could be a problem with the control board. The switch can be tested for continuity but is a little less straight forward than a heating element, you would likely have to remove the whole panel to access the switch. As for the control board, they are generally pretty expensive and it would be best to verify with a professional before replacing.
Can I infer from your suggestion of 30-100 ohms that 100 is the max reasonable resistence? If it is more than that (say 200+) does that also mean it is bad?
Great question. It does vary slightly but you are right that excessive resistance is bad. If the resistance is 200+ then the amp draw would be cut in half and the heat dissipation would decrease, so the element won't be as effective in warming up the oven. You can see here by plugging in voltage and resistance into this calculator www.ohmslawcalculator.com/ohms-law-calculator
Hi Kyran, thank you for watching. The readings do vary with different manufacturers, so a reading of 20 ohms may not necessarily mean that the element needs to be replaced. To be certain its best to check your manual for your particular model.
@@kapilyadav8226 If your manual doesn't state the average resistance you can plug your wattage into this Watts calculator to find out what resistance the element will need. www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/watt-volt-amp-calculator.html For example a 2500 watt bake element will be running off 220 volts. If you plug these values into the calculator you get a resistance reading of 20 ohms. So this depends on the wattage of the element. If the resistance is significantly off then you know the element will need to be replaced.
Hi Aslam, thank you for watching. Its best to use dedicated heat lamp for an incubator. Oven heating elements get very hot and its not recommended to retrofit them for any other use than an oven.
Thanks for watching Joe! We are currently in production of a more in-depth series on ovens and stoves, including a video on how it works. To put it simply, the oven control board is connected to a temperature sensor. When you turn bake or broil on, the control board sends power to the heating elements preheat the oven. Once the temperature is reached, the oven elements turn off. Once the oven temperature drops, the elements will turn on again to raise the temperature. The timing of the elements depends on the model. Some models use both the bake and broil elements during baking, about with about 80% of the heat coming from the bake and about 20% coming from the broil element. In some models only the bake element is used during baking, and only the broil element is used during broil.
Thanks for watching. If you're still getting a normal resistance reading then don't worry about the buzzer as this has different thresholds depending on the model of multimeter. What matters is that the resistance is within normal values.
Took an resistance and connected to 220v why it isn't glowing as it would on the oven, know why? Trying to built a cocktop to my shed... it heats but not much as normally would. Also didn't saw any capacitor on the oven I scraped it from... any clue?
Thanks for watching. We don't recommend ever to modify existing components to work outside of their specific designed use cases. There are lot of factors that can effect safety, so it is best to contact an electrician for guidance.
If the element appears fine and connections are good but element does not heat up, it could be the relay on the control board. That was my issue. I had to resolder the relay connection to the circuit board.
Thanks for watching. You are right that after eliminating the element as a potential failure, that it could be an issue with the relay. Most people don't have the knowledge or skill to resolder a relay so they end up replacing the entire control board. We're glad to hear that you were able to repair it and get it running again.
I am trying to diagnose a broiler element that is not turning on. I measured the resistance of the broil element and the thermostat, they both tested fine at 15.6Ω and 1082Ω respectively. When I turn on the oven a relay clicks, the fan turns on but the broil element does not get energized (reads 0 V on a multimeter) The bake element is energized with 238 V. Is there any fuse or protection circuit between the electronic control board and the element I can check? I am hoping I can find something easy to diagnose and replace that is broken like a fuse, a relay or a thermal switch. How can I diagnose the electronic control board before ordering a new one?
Thanks for watching. If your model has a thermal fuse then it can be tested for continuity: czcams.com/video/96s7maybHlY/video.html This is generally only on the bake element or near the power supply. Since the broil element is only used partially during a bake cycle, it does not make sense to have a thermal fuse or limit switch on the broil element. If it has a limit switch or fuse it should be listed on the parts breakdown: www.amresupply.com/lookup/70191 Based on your tests (which seems like it was done on a bake cycle), you hear a relay but that is likely the bake relay. Try the test again but on a broil cycle as only the broil element is used. In some models it might preheat with both elements so wait until after the preheat is done and listen to see if the broil relay clicks on and off. After the preheat the broil element should be hot and will continue to cycle on and off. If the broil relay doesn't click at all within a 10 minute run time, then it's likely a faulty control board. If the relay clicks but the element isn't receiving voltage. then check the wires between the control board and the broil element. See if there are any burn marks or melted wires. Then check the wires for continuity.
@AmreSupply Sorry I was not clear that I did test the broil and the bake cycles. The broil element was never energized in any test. I will take appart the control panel and check the wires. Also, the broil element stopped working after a self clean - could be the cause or just a coincidence??
@@jett01000010 Thanks for the update. It is possible that after a self clean that it tripped a thermal fuse or damaged the control board. It is hard to know for sure though.
Hi Farhan, thank you for watching. If the element has continuity, the multimeter should show a resistance reading continuously. If you don't get a reading for more than a second, either the leads aren't making good contact with the terminals, or the element is faulty.
Thanks for watching. If it is an electric smoker than the element will also be a resistor. You can test it for resistance in the same way. The resistance rating will also likely be similar to an oven element. If there is no resistance or if it seems very high or very low, then the smoker will not work.
Thanks for watching. If the oven is tripping the breaker then there is most likely a short. From the back of the oven you can test the oven elements to see if it is shorted through the oven frame. czcams.com/video/10ezc3LNQP4/video.html Other than that short circuits can be difficult to narrow down, it is one area where it can be helpful to call a professional.
Thanks for watching. That is within a normal range so the element is good. If you want to troubleshoot further we have other videos on this: czcams.com/play/PLCo9SMjkdWBzSdZB9Un3GKKI0Iohlpf9a.html
Update: elements were fine, checked the plug and apparently that was broken... so that was an simple fix.. but thanks to the video I did find it using the multimeter and was testing it all out. So thanks anyways!
AMRE Supply ive cut the plug open and its an warzone, it was exploded and also Made My ground wire life, at least i knew now why only 46 voltage came trough the Cable and it was broken
Thanks for watching. Air will heat up faster than water or oil. You can see this in the fact that lakes in summer are often many degrees colder than the surrounding air.
Thanks for watching. You can use the Wattage rating and the power (240V) to determine the resistance value of your heating element: www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/ohms-law-calculator.html which will be the Voltage Squared / Wattage = Resistance Some elements with high wattage ratings might have a lower resistance. If both elements are good and the oven is not heating up all the way then it's likely a faulty temperature sensor. You can see more in this video: czcams.com/video/96s7maybHlY/video.htmlsi=N-P7M5CSklBWDb9N&t=311
@@valeriehofmann2615 Thanks for the update. If both heating elements are good, and the temperature sensor is 100% good, and the oven is still not heating up properly then check the wires between the temperature sensor and the control board. Make sure there is no carbon or dirt or grease that might interfere with the electricity of the sensor. As well try a normal bake cycle as well as broil and see how it heats up. You should be able to feel some heat off of the bake as well as the broil elements. Make sure that the elements are actually turning on. If this doesn't help then it could be a faulty control board.
Hi thank you for watching. 13.3 ohms should be fine depending on the wattage of your element. If your manual doesn't state the average resistance you can plug your element wattage into this Watts calculator to find out what resistance the element will need. www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/watt-volt-amp-calculator.html For example a 3400 watt bake element will be running off 220 volts. If you plug these values into the calculator you get a resistance reading of 14.2 ohms. So this depends on the wattage of the element. 13.3 ohms is within a healthy range but if you tested 5 ohms then that would be a sign that it was defective.
Thanks for watching. No you can't use a heating element designed for 240v on 120v power. The current will be too high and you'll trip the breaker. For example a 3500 watt heating element run off 240v will draw 12.5 amps of current. If that same element is run off of 120v then it will draw 25 amps of current which is much higher than the circuit can handle. You can plug those numbers in yourself to see it here: www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/ohms-law-calculator.html
That is a little lower than average but might be ok if you have a higher wattage heating element, something around 3400 watts: You can check using this calculator. Enter the wattage & voltage of your system (240V) and you'll get the resistance that the element should have. www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/ohms-law-calculator.html
Thanks for watching. An oven element is a resistor and needs resistance to create heat, it should be anywhere between 10 - 40 ohms. Switches, wires and fuses will have a resistance of 0 - 1 ohms as they provide a path for electricity to flow through.
can we please talk about this fake shop thats strictly used for videos?? like come on those brand new tools were bought 5 years ago and only admin staff can go in their to read off a script only the service guys understand
Hi John, thank you for watching. This set was put together when we first started filming videos. It gave us a place to film that allowed us to control lighting, audio and to get good quality video shots of testing or repairs. We opted for this set over filming against a green-screen. We've adapted it over time and we use currently a different set for narration and occasionally film on location. Hopefully you still found this video helpful.
**NEW VIDEO POSTED** Learn how to test and replace a bake or broil element here: czcams.com/video/ABope7vl5IY/video.html
If you need a new heating element you can find an exact match on our website: www.amresupply.com/catalog/Elements-Bake-and-Broil - Enter your model number into the main search to find the exact OEM replacement.
new sub earned! excellent pace and explanation 👍
You're welcome, thank you for the subscription! If you're curious we have more oven repair videos here: czcams.com/play/PLCo9SMjkdWBysYYCcg5xQLiVh_cW0JQvt.html
Thank you Stephanie!
You're welcome! As well we've just released a few new videos on oven and stove repairs that you might find helpful.
Oven won't heat- Troubleshooting: czcams.com/video/96s7maybHlY/video.html
Oven element testing & replacement - czcams.com/video/ABope7vl5IY/video.html
Thank you very much
You're welcome Tavy!
Clear explanation
Thanks for watching!
thanks
You're welcome William! Thanks for watching.
Can you expect to get a similar reading in resistance if you contact your probes to the actual heating element, near the terminals?
Thanks for watching. If you test on the bare metal then you'll get a similar resistance. If you test the part that glows (which is the cover) then you won't get a resistance reading. The heating element is actually a small wire inside and the outside is not the path for electricity to flow through. If you do get resistance between the terminal and the frame or the outside of the heating element, then that means that it has shorted.
@@AmreSupply👍
*Note* Some higher wattage elements can have lower resistance values than 30 ohms. You can use the wattage and the power (240V) to determine the resistance value of your heating element:
www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/ohms-law-calculator.html
Formula for manual calculations:
Voltage Squared / Wattage = Resistance
240 x 240 / 3500 = 16.46 ohms
Nice
Thank you!
Nice👍
Thanks for watching!
Köszönöm
Thanks for watching.
Hi . Is it acceptable to check continuity while still in the stove if you have access to the ends from the back of the stove? Thanks.
Thank you for watching. As long as you unplug the unit from the wall, and the power is disconnected then you can remove the wires and test the element from the terminals on the back without remove the heating element.
@@AmreSupply Thanks!
@@JamesGodish You're welcome!
I have a Faberware 1500w double cooktop. The large burner & indicator light stopped working so I opened it up to check things with my digital VOM. I got .2 resistance on the working small element and 0 on the inoperative large element. The small element works like a champ so what's with the low reading?
Hi Bill thank you for watching. Non-load components like switches or thermostats will have resistances of 0-1 ohms while heating elements are around 20 - 40. If you get a reading of less than 1 ohm first make sure that the element is completely isolated, disconnect all wires etc, so that you are not getting any interference. Also it is worth checking to see if the element has shorted to ground. Test from each terminal to the outside of the heating element to see if you have continuity. If there's continuity then the element has shorted to ground.
@@AmreSupply I isolated the element and it shows zero resistance with no short to ground. Can't locate a replacement so am considering replacing it with a standard stove top element and drip pan .
@@billwilson3609 yes those replacement burners are not commonly sold. Keep in mind a standard stove top element requires 240v and might not work as a replacement as most portable cooktops run off 120v.
Why did you use resistant on the meter to check continuity instead of continuity setting which beeps when detects?
Hi Charles, thank you for watching. Good question. Using the continuity setting works great but not all multimeters have the continuity setting, so in this case we decided to show the test by just using the resistance setting.
Some digital multi-meters will not alert/give off an audible tone is the circuit has too much resistance. For example, the one I have at work will not emit a tone at anything above 10 ohms. The one I have at home (different brand) will emit a 'good circuit' with up to about 1kohm. By using the resistance reading, you won't get a 'false open' if your DMM is a bit finicky.
My oven made sparks and smoked, the bake setting doesn't work, but the broil setting and all 4 stove top elements work, what would be the problem?? Single mom, needs a handy man suggestions!
Hi Marlene, thanks for watching! What you are describing is that your bake element likely burnt out. If you notice any visible blistering or defects on the side of the element, then that's a good indicator that it failed as well you can test the element following the steps in this video. If you need a replacement bake element then you can enter your oven model number into the AMRE Website to get a parts breakdown with your exact match listed on the side. www.amresupply.com/findmodel/range
Hi my oven stays on till i turn the temperature dial. Abt 5mins into heating it breaks the circuit to the hse. So is it the element or the dial? I have tested for both the top n bottom elements n it happens for both of it. Pls advice.
Hi Steven, it sounds like the temperature control switch is malfunctioning or it could be a problem with the control board. The switch can be tested for continuity but is a little less straight forward than a heating element, you would likely have to remove the whole panel to access the switch. As for the control board, they are generally pretty expensive and it would be best to verify with a professional before replacing.
AMRE Supply ok thanks il try that.
Can I infer from your suggestion of 30-100 ohms that 100 is the max reasonable resistence? If it is more than that (say 200+) does that also mean it is bad?
Great question. It does vary slightly but you are right that excessive resistance is bad. If the resistance is 200+ then the amp draw would be cut in half and the heat dissipation would decrease, so the element won't be as effective in warming up the oven. You can see here by plugging in voltage and resistance into this calculator www.ohmslawcalculator.com/ohms-law-calculator
Thanks for the great video.....Quick question... My Bake Element has an Ohms reading of 20, does that mean I have a bad element?
Hi Kyran, thank you for watching. The readings do vary with different manufacturers, so a reading of 20 ohms may not necessarily mean that the element needs to be replaced. To be certain its best to check your manual for your particular model.
@@AmreSupply is it better to check continuity only then??
@@kapilyadav8226 If your manual doesn't state the average resistance you can plug your wattage into this Watts calculator to find out what resistance the element will need. www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/watt-volt-amp-calculator.html For example a 2500 watt bake element will be running off 220 volts. If you plug these values into the calculator you get a resistance reading of 20 ohms. So this depends on the wattage of the element. If the resistance is significantly off then you know the element will need to be replaced.
hello mem we use this element in incubator ?
Hi Aslam, thank you for watching. Its best to use dedicated heat lamp for an incubator. Oven heating elements get very hot and its not recommended to retrofit them for any other use than an oven.
Hi can you please explain how does the elements are connected to tempreture and the timing or will be appreciated shown diagram tq
Thanks for watching Joe! We are currently in production of a more in-depth series on ovens and stoves, including a video on how it works. To put it simply, the oven control board is connected to a temperature sensor. When you turn bake or broil on, the control board sends power to the heating elements preheat the oven. Once the temperature is reached, the oven elements turn off. Once the oven temperature drops, the elements will turn on again to raise the temperature. The timing of the elements depends on the model. Some models use both the bake and broil elements during baking, about with about 80% of the heat coming from the bake and about 20% coming from the broil element. In some models only the bake element is used during baking, and only the broil element is used during broil.
@@AmreSupply you explain very clear thank you.
@@joesam8113 You're welcome Joe, we're happy to help!
We've finally release the series on oven and stove troubleshooting: This video explains how it all works: czcams.com/video/L9ZI5GyON9I/video.html
I'm in confusion,i done continuity through buzzer,it does not produce sound at all,when i do ohm,it goes to 50-60 ohm..which one should i go for.? 😅
Thanks for watching. If you're still getting a normal resistance reading then don't worry about the buzzer as this has different thresholds depending on the model of multimeter. What matters is that the resistance is within normal values.
great (Y)
Thank you!
Took an resistance and connected to 220v why it isn't glowing as it would on the oven, know why? Trying to built a cocktop to my shed... it heats but not much as normally would. Also didn't saw any capacitor on the oven I scraped it from... any clue?
Thanks for watching. We don't recommend ever to modify existing components to work outside of their specific designed use cases. There are lot of factors that can effect safety, so it is best to contact an electrician for guidance.
@@AmreSupply it's a curiosity question, from Brazil.
If the element appears fine and connections are good but element does not heat up, it could be the relay on the control board. That was my issue. I had to resolder the relay connection to the circuit board.
Thanks for watching. You are right that after eliminating the element as a potential failure, that it could be an issue with the relay. Most people don't have the knowledge or skill to resolder a relay so they end up replacing the entire control board. We're glad to hear that you were able to repair it and get it running again.
I am trying to diagnose a broiler element that is not turning on. I measured the resistance of the broil element and the thermostat, they both tested fine at 15.6Ω and 1082Ω respectively. When I turn on the oven a relay clicks, the fan turns on but the broil element does not get energized (reads 0 V on a multimeter) The bake element is energized with 238 V. Is there any fuse or protection circuit between the electronic control board and the element I can check? I am hoping I can find something easy to diagnose and replace that is broken like a fuse, a relay or a thermal switch. How can I diagnose the electronic control board before ordering a new one?
P.S. My oven is a Jenn-Air® JES8860CCS00 Range.
Thanks for watching. If your model has a thermal fuse then it can be tested for continuity: czcams.com/video/96s7maybHlY/video.html This is generally only on the bake element or near the power supply. Since the broil element is only used partially during a bake cycle, it does not make sense to have a thermal fuse or limit switch on the broil element. If it has a limit switch or fuse it should be listed on the parts breakdown: www.amresupply.com/lookup/70191
Based on your tests (which seems like it was done on a bake cycle), you hear a relay but that is likely the bake relay. Try the test again but on a broil cycle as only the broil element is used. In some models it might preheat with both elements so wait until after the preheat is done and listen to see if the broil relay clicks on and off. After the preheat the broil element should be hot and will continue to cycle on and off. If the broil relay doesn't click at all within a 10 minute run time, then it's likely a faulty control board.
If the relay clicks but the element isn't receiving voltage. then check the wires between the control board and the broil element. See if there are any burn marks or melted wires. Then check the wires for continuity.
@AmreSupply Sorry I was not clear that I did test the broil and the bake cycles. The broil element was never energized in any test. I will take appart the control panel and check the wires. Also, the broil element stopped working after a self clean - could be the cause or just a coincidence??
@@jett01000010 Thanks for the update. It is possible that after a self clean that it tripped a thermal fuse or damaged the control board. It is hard to know for sure though.
This is the same principle for the top element right?
Thanks for watching. Yes it's the same principle as the top (broil) element. This video goes into more detail: czcams.com/video/ABope7vl5IY/video.html
If conectivity comes for a second then elemnt is ok or not
Hi Farhan, thank you for watching. If the element has continuity, the multimeter should show a resistance reading continuously. If you don't get a reading for more than a second, either the leads aren't making good contact with the terminals, or the element is faulty.
Is an oven heating element polarized?
Thanks for watching. An oven element is a resistor and is not polarized. Any current flowing through will create heat.
Charbroil smoker element test
Thanks for watching. If it is an electric smoker than the element will also be a resistor. You can test it for resistance in the same way. The resistance rating will also likely be similar to an oven element. If there is no resistance or if it seems very high or very low, then the smoker will not work.
my oven heat up for a minute or two then trip the circuit any suggestion ?
Thanks for watching. If the oven is tripping the breaker then there is most likely a short. From the back of the oven you can test the oven elements to see if it is shorted through the oven frame. czcams.com/video/10ezc3LNQP4/video.html
Other than that short circuits can be difficult to narrow down, it is one area where it can be helpful to call a professional.
So i got 33.32 is this a good reading?
Thanks for watching. That is within a normal range so the element is good. If you want to troubleshoot further we have other videos on this: czcams.com/play/PLCo9SMjkdWBzSdZB9Un3GKKI0Iohlpf9a.html
You might of Made My day today, we Will see if thats the problem with our pizza oven, it might be As it kind of exploded..
Update: elements were fine, checked the plug and apparently that was broken... so that was an simple fix.. but thanks to the video I did find it using the multimeter and was testing it all out. So thanks anyways!
You're welcome!! The multimeter is definitely helpful for narrowing it all down, we're glad you found the video helpful!
AMRE Supply ive cut the plug open and its an warzone, it was exploded and also Made My ground wire life, at least i knew now why only 46 voltage came trough the Cable and it was broken
Its good that you were able to confirm and support what was shown on the multimeter. It sounds like there was a short somewhere in there.
AMRE Supply if I could send pictures in the comments I would show you the broken charred cables
the easiest element to be warmed up - water , air or oil?
Thanks for watching. Air will heat up faster than water or oil. You can see this in the fact that lakes in summer are often many degrees colder than the surrounding air.
What if its at the low end? Put in a new element and oven isn't heating all the way up. Dh said ohms on new element is on the low end
Thanks for watching. You can use the Wattage rating and the power (240V) to determine the resistance value of your heating element:
www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/ohms-law-calculator.html which will be the Voltage Squared / Wattage = Resistance
Some elements with high wattage ratings might have a lower resistance.
If both elements are good and the oven is not heating up all the way then it's likely a faulty temperature sensor. You can see more in this video: czcams.com/video/96s7maybHlY/video.htmlsi=N-P7M5CSklBWDb9N&t=311
@@AmreSupply thanks took over an hour tonight to get to 340 with convection bake. Never got to set temp of 350. Thermostat in oven was correct though
@@valeriehofmann2615 Thanks for the update. If both heating elements are good, and the temperature sensor is 100% good, and the oven is still not heating up properly then check the wires between the temperature sensor and the control board. Make sure there is no carbon or dirt or grease that might interfere with the electricity of the sensor.
As well try a normal bake cycle as well as broil and see how it heats up. You should be able to feel some heat off of the bake as well as the broil elements. Make sure that the elements are actually turning on.
If this doesn't help then it could be a faulty control board.
My readout is 13.3 ohms.
Hi thank you for watching. 13.3 ohms should be fine depending on the wattage of your element. If your manual doesn't state the average resistance you can plug your element wattage into this Watts calculator to find out what resistance the element will need. www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/watt-volt-amp-calculator.html For example a 3400 watt bake element will be running off 220 volts. If you plug these values into the calculator you get a resistance reading of 14.2 ohms. So this depends on the wattage of the element. 13.3 ohms is within a healthy range but if you tested 5 ohms then that would be a sign that it was defective.
Can you put 220v in to a 110v element?
Thanks for watching. No you can't use a heating element designed for 240v on 120v power. The current will be too high and you'll trip the breaker. For example a 3500 watt heating element run off 240v will draw 12.5 amps of current. If that same element is run off of 120v then it will draw 25 amps of current which is much higher than the circuit can handle. You can plug those numbers in yourself to see it here: www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/ohms-law-calculator.html
My reading was 13 ohms?
That is a little lower than average but might be ok if you have a higher wattage heating element, something around 3400 watts: You can check using this calculator. Enter the wattage & voltage of your system (240V) and you'll get the resistance that the element should have. www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/ohms-law-calculator.html
I'm single and would like to bake for someone special,,LOL
Its a well known fact that the fastest way to someones heart is through the stomach haha
Should read zero if its any good. Anything higher replace
Thanks for watching. An oven element is a resistor and needs resistance to create heat, it should be anywhere between 10 - 40 ohms. Switches, wires and fuses will have a resistance of 0 - 1 ohms as they provide a path for electricity to flow through.
can we please talk about this fake shop thats strictly used for videos?? like come on those brand new tools were bought 5 years ago and only admin staff can go in their to read off a script only the service guys understand
Hi John, thank you for watching. This set was put together when we first started filming videos. It gave us a place to film that allowed us to control lighting, audio and to get good quality video shots of testing or repairs. We opted for this set over filming against a green-screen. We've adapted it over time and we use currently a different set for narration and occasionally film on location. Hopefully you still found this video helpful.
thanks
You're welcome!