@@borderlineiq I know for an engine block you can use a hammer to score the tape, I'm hoping its a trick like that cause I don't have the patience or skill to get that precise lol
How did you sand it? did you put 2 layers of clear THEN sand it then add another coat, or did you sand the color coat to remove the orange peel? When i sand the colour coat it removes the tint and ruins it...
Hey man awesome video very informative, how do you think regular acrylic paint would hold up if I first did a layer of the high temp stuff then another of the high temp varnish after?
Thanks man! You would probably be fine but it’s hard to say as there are many variables. Worse comes to worse it doesn’t workout and you have to strip it again. I tried wrinkle paint on this valve cover and it didn’t come out well so I stripped it and did this 👆🏻
I see people run those 2 AN fittings all the time just as breathers to a vented catch can, but normally the pcv valve and breather runs the vacuum evac system so did you run both of them back to their places after the catch can? (breather to intake pipe and pcv to intake manifold). I'm aiming 400hp and want to run only breathers to a vented catch can, so no blowby mixtures go back into the intake (no emissions testing here). But I heard breather only setups cause engine sludge since there's no vacuum on the crankcase, only ventilation so blowby contaminants just mix with the oil -- could be a myth/negligible effect on normal blowby levels though. But If you're 600hp on breathers only without any oil or sludge problems, I'm definitely doing that 😂otherwise I'll just have to connect them back in but run them through catch cans first.
So the concept of running a breather from the valve cover is to allow crank case ventilation. With a positively pressurized engine setup (not under engine vacuum) from a turbo charger or super charger you want crank case ventilation because the intake and combustion chamber are filled with dense air and some of this makes it past the rings into the crank case. If you didn’t have this ventilation you would be blowing crank seals, valve cover seals, cam seals as the engine fills with air. You also don’t want to use the pcv for similar reasons as the pcv will most likely not function properly and bleed of air under 10+psi making it hard for your engine management components to have consistent pressure/airflow.
How did the paint job hold up? I used some of the dupicolor metallic silver for the base. Looks great never thought of using different color metallic flakes. Looks great 👍
can you make a video of setting timing with the obd1 setup my cars been sitting for so long and i have no idea how to set timing on it properly please help your video helped me with swaping the distributor to obd1 but the timing and ignition timing is helllll
It all comes down to what motor and cams (aftermarket cams) you have and what ecu your using. First check mechanical timing between the cams and crank to make sure all of the arrows are aligned properly. Next if you have an obd2 stock ecu you need to jump the blue service plug connector (under the glove box) with a paper clip and get a timing light to shoot at the flywheel right by the transmission. You adjust the ignition timing by loosening the bolts on the dizzy and rotate it one direction or the other to get the cross hairs to match the TDC line. Then you tighten the dizzy up and the obd2 ecu automatically adjusts everything else. The operation is similar for obd1 except you have to set your own ignition advance to about 15-17 degrees (there are lines on the fly wheel for this) then tighten down the dizzy. For obd1 with Hondata, there is a provision in setting that you have to select to set ignition timing (after mechanical timing is set). Hondata does not require you to jump the blue service connector.
Hey Brian thank you for the input! Engine vacuum timing is only for say my 390 FE motor with a carburetor as you know. We were talking about fuel injected engines that come with an externally ignition coiled distributor instead of the more common internally coiled distributors. Certain ECU’s automatically change ignition timing based off other electronic inputs like crank and or cam position sensors, rpm, and air fuel ratio. A lot of us like to revert to an OBD1 distributor because it has an internal cam sensor that replaces the crank position sensors that go bad due to stone stokes and are super annoying to change, it’s internally coiled and there is more aftermarket coils available, and it cleans up the engine bay and allows more room for aftermarket upgrades. This is a more reliable and economical step before moving to an expensive coil on plug waste spark setup or sequential spark ignition.
Because the gold gives it a base metallic color and metallic flake. The anodized spray paint is more “see through” than paint…was looking for a rich red candy color. You can do the same with metallic grey but the shade of red will be different.
Hahaha thanks brother. I will tell you what, these Tesla surprise you. They feel like cars when almost nothing on the road can keep up. At the end of the day I love to drive and they make it uniquely fun.
@@thestateofreal2533 Awesome, I'm getting ready to paint the frame of my motorcycle. Its just a little chopper/bobber I built. Im just curious how durable/hard it actually is, but if its lasting under your hood it may be fine for me. Thanks for the reply bro.
I used gold because I was looking for a darker red similar to the JDM red. The red I used is a anodized red which is a lot lighter so the gold allows it be assume a darker share with a warmth to it.
As I recall from the olden days the gold base makes a warmer color and a silver base a cooler color when shooting candy type colors.
Sounds about right!
Came out 🔥🔥🔥
It looks fantastic man!
Thank you for this vid!!! That anodized red was the exact can of paint I was also thinking about using as well, nice work!
Thanks brother! For long term abuse I suggest a 2k clear two part can from Amazon.
Tape job is on point! Nice work. Looks amazing. 👍🏻
Thanks brother! I certainly took my time.
Ah hell yes, next project babyyy! Thanks dude, you’re a real one for real.
Looks great for rattle can!
Look at the GL🐴🐴🐴🐴ss haha
😂😂😂
Looks good!
Thanks brother!
That homeboy Tom is so fresh.
He carries it well, doesn't he?
Looks so good
I want to make my engine bay that exact red metallic color it looks so nice
Did you clear it at all, it looks really good!
Yes watch till the end
That came out amazing, how'd you get the tape so precise around the lettering?
@@borderlineiq I know for an engine block you can use a hammer to score the tape, I'm hoping its a trick like that cause I don't have the patience or skill to get that precise lol
Paint over everything and take a small grinder where it’s DOHC and VTEC
Hitting these aluminum valve covers with a hammer to cut the tape will dent them. I used a razor. Perfection takes patients most times 😣
I did that before and it caused some of my paint to chip off 🙁
Did you wet sand with 2k grit then buff with a product?
What was the clear you added at the end after the cut out? Looks amazing
2k rattle can clear: a.co/d/a1zhRT0
How did you sand it? did you put 2 layers of clear THEN sand it then add another coat, or did you sand the color coat to remove the orange peel? When i sand the colour coat it removes the tint and ruins it...
Nice! How many layers of clear did you use? And did you buff it prior?
Two
Hey man awesome video very informative, how do you think regular acrylic paint would hold up if I first did a layer of the high temp stuff then another of the high temp varnish after?
Thanks man! You would probably be fine but it’s hard to say as there are many variables. Worse comes to worse it doesn’t workout and you have to strip it again. I tried wrinkle paint on this valve cover and it didn’t come out well so I stripped it and did this 👆🏻
@@thestateofreal2533 awesome dude thank you I’m gonna go ahead and give it a try then
High heat paint?
How many layers of each did you use?
I see people run those 2 AN fittings all the time just as breathers to a vented catch can, but normally the pcv valve and breather runs the vacuum evac system so did you run both of them back to their places after the catch can? (breather to intake pipe and pcv to intake manifold).
I'm aiming 400hp and want to run only breathers to a vented catch can, so no blowby mixtures go back into the intake (no emissions testing here). But I heard breather only setups cause engine sludge since there's no vacuum on the crankcase, only ventilation so blowby contaminants just mix with the oil -- could be a myth/negligible effect on normal blowby levels though. But If you're 600hp on breathers only without any oil or sludge problems, I'm definitely doing that 😂otherwise I'll just have to connect them back in but run them through catch cans first.
So the concept of running a breather from the valve cover is to allow crank case ventilation.
With a positively pressurized engine setup (not under engine vacuum) from a turbo charger or super charger you want crank case ventilation because the intake and combustion chamber are filled with dense air and some of this makes it past the rings into the crank case. If you didn’t have this ventilation you would be blowing crank seals, valve cover seals, cam seals as the engine fills with air.
You also don’t want to use the pcv for similar reasons as the pcv will most likely not function properly and bleed of air under 10+psi making it hard for your engine management components to have consistent pressure/airflow.
Bro that is amazing 💀 would be nice to do the same to calipers
Do you have a video on how you covered up the PCV hole/pit and made it line up smooth with the valve cover? what material was used to fill it up?
Lol OMG
How did the paint job hold up? I used some of the dupicolor metallic silver for the base. Looks great never thought of using different color metallic flakes. Looks great 👍
No issues so far! Everything is holding up great!
can you make a video of setting timing with the obd1 setup my cars been sitting for so long and i have no idea how to set timing on it properly please help your video helped me with swaping the distributor to obd1 but the timing and ignition timing is helllll
It all comes down to what motor and cams (aftermarket cams) you have and what ecu your using. First check mechanical timing between the cams and crank to make sure all of the arrows are aligned properly.
Next if you have an obd2 stock ecu you need to jump the blue service plug connector (under the glove box) with a paper clip and get a timing light to shoot at the flywheel right by the transmission. You adjust the ignition timing by loosening the bolts on the dizzy and rotate it one direction or the other to get the cross hairs to match the TDC line. Then you tighten the dizzy up and the obd2 ecu automatically adjusts everything else.
The operation is similar for obd1 except you have to set your own ignition advance to about 15-17 degrees (there are lines on the fly wheel for this) then tighten down the dizzy.
For obd1 with Hondata, there is a provision in setting that you have to select to set ignition timing (after mechanical timing is set). Hondata does not require you to jump the blue service connector.
Look into setting timing by engine vacuum
Hey Brian thank you for the input! Engine vacuum timing is only for say my 390 FE motor with a carburetor as you know. We were talking about fuel injected engines that come with an externally ignition coiled distributor instead of the more common internally coiled distributors. Certain ECU’s automatically change ignition timing based off other electronic inputs like crank and or cam position sensors, rpm, and air fuel ratio. A lot of us like to revert to an OBD1 distributor because it has an internal cam sensor that replaces the crank position sensors that go bad due to stone stokes and are super annoying to change, it’s internally coiled and there is more aftermarket coils available, and it cleans up the engine bay and allows more room for aftermarket upgrades. This is a more reliable and economical step before moving to an expensive coil on plug waste spark setup or sequential spark ignition.
Why did u use the gold and not just go straight to paint? Just wondering what that does
Because the gold gives it a base metallic color and metallic flake. The anodized spray paint is more “see through” than paint…was looking for a rich red candy color. You can do the same with metallic grey but the shade of red will be different.
If I wanted a darker color I’d go with a darker chrome right?
Yes
Electric cars don’t count but the cover looks good I’ll give you that .
Hahaha thanks brother. I will tell you what, these Tesla surprise you. They feel like cars when almost nothing on the road can keep up. At the end of the day I love to drive and they make it uniquely fun.
Did you use spraymax 2k clear
Yes. Spray far away…almost like your wasting it.
@@thestateofreal2533 thank u 🙂
How is holding up with the heat from the engine
Holding up great! No change at all.
Hows it holding up
Good so far. I have been babying it!
@@thestateofreal2533
Awesome, I'm getting ready to paint the frame of my motorcycle. Its just a little chopper/bobber I built. Im just curious how durable/hard it actually is, but if its lasting under your hood it may be fine for me. Thanks for the reply bro.
What is the part number for that gold apart can
Cab you use any color primer
Never really would have thought of porn music with engine paint, but fair dinkum, nah yeah, time for a mid strength beer.
why did you use gold and not a regular silver? was it to get that goldish flake? it looks powder coated!!!
I used gold because I was looking for a darker red similar to the JDM red. The red I used is a anodized red which is a lot lighter so the gold allows it be assume a darker share with a warmth to it.
@@thestateofreal2533 yeah, i was curious why the gold, i ordered anodized green so will see how that is. Thanks!
@@charltonarmstrong9022 good luck man!
@@thestateofreal2533 thanks man! And your VC still looking clean? Heat not affecting it?
2k primer or 2x?
Self etching rustoleum primer.
Ima noob I need a swap guide. Someone link or make a video.
I reeeeeaaaaally need a 55mm crankshaft for my 5th gen bb6 prelude (h22a4)😅
Wish I had one for you but I sold them all