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DIY Drum Sander part 1
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- čas přidán 14. 08. 2024
- I've embarked on my most ambitious tool build yet - a drum sander. In this video I create the drum.
In the next video I'll be creating the table and the stand. The feed will be manual, although I might consider a mechanised belt feed as a later improvement.
![HOMEMADE DRUM SANDER THICKNESS SANDER [아빠네공방, 다율나무공방]](/img/n.gif)
I didn't want to build a drum sander but the fact that you are a female with a mechanical aptitude (and surprisingly knowledgeable) grabbed my attention.
You must be an engineer... you're certainly qualified, and I'm looking forward to seeing what else you might be designing.
Keep up the good work. You're a breath of fresh air.
This is the first video, from this gal, I have watched. She's good. A woodworker, an engineer and a
stop motion animator. I loved the stop motion. Very imaginative.
That is the smoothest motor I have ever heard, and it looks beat to hell. Nice find! Great video!
I love the simplicity of your jigs Susie, you have a wonderful approach to engineering. Please come back!
Ciao. Jestem Jurek. Oglądałem wszstkie twoje film. Bardzo mi imponujesz jako kobieta pomimo że nie rozumiem ani iednego słowa co mówisz rozumiem cie doskonale. Pełen szacun. Jestem mechanikiem samochodowym. Ale stolarstwo zawsze było i jest mią pasią. I jak ty konstruje maszyny stolarskie i nie tylko. Dla mnie jesteś mega super dziewczyną. Życzę Ci wszystkiego najlepszego samych sukcesów durzo zdrowia. Trzymam kciuki. Miei komtynuacj tego co robisz❤❤❤❤
I know this video series is old, but I think it's a well-done project. Well thought out and very clever execution. Looking forward to watching your other project series.
You're in Congratulations it's one of the Best Video I've Ever Seen with step by step well explained in the Sander project. I learned everything I wanted to know.
Sue, when you first start something electrical, don`t just put the plug in to make contact. Plug it in through a switch , Like a switch on a main wall socket. Then stand back and switch on . This gives you the ability to instantly switch off if all hell breaks loose. Doing what you did with such a short flex , on the opposite side of the machine. I could hear all the people watching screaming Noooooooooo, saw your vid because I am about to do the same for making tapered bamboo for bow building. Great effort, wish you well.
Use a piece of PVC pipe..That way you only need to make two wooden ends to fit on each end....Make a couple of them...A couple of different grits...That way all you do is change the drum out instead of changing the paper when you want to change grits.. Saves you from making two hundred disks..but all in all my hats off to this woman for giving it a go
using the rotor like that is brilliant. Nicely done Susan
Who els was waiting for that damn thing to jump off that table 😆🤣 great work though
How funny I was just looking for the threaded inserts from screwfix and I looked in the questions and answers, and you had asked what metal they are made from-small world! Great videos by the way👍
Hi Susan, I just discovered you, wish I would have done so sooner. Thanks so much for sharing the video! I'll be catching up watching this series and likely all your vids. Great stuff - Cheers, Peter.
I just discovered your channel. I really like it. As a woodworker and struggling guitar learner, I'm sure I'll enjoy being subscribed. Thanks.
Following along and your engineering is impressive. On to part 2.
A good woman builds her own guitars! Super, amazing, nice!
I read the comments about what kind of adhesive would suit your purpose, they all sound
like they would work. If I was making this for myself I would
probably use small countersunk screws, perhaps three on each side in
the direction of work piece travel. The advantage in my opinion is that it
would be easy to remove it if it were damaged for some reason. I
could see myself inadvertently gouging the surface in some way or
another, you would than be able to replace it or turn it over a lot
easier. I also admire your ability to work with a hand saw, I'm
guessing I have been doing these kinds of projects twice as long as
you and I still don't produce that kind of accuracy. Looking forward
to the next installment.
I am building my own drum sander. Rather than cutting dozens of plywood disks and trying to true them up, I bought a wooden rolling pin from a local home equipment shop. It's a bit smaller but should work just fine. It has a 10mm hole drilled right through the center with nylon bushings for a piece of 8mm steel rod, on which the two handles are mounted. I tapped the bushings and threaded a length of 8mm threaded studding through the middle. It spins perfectly true.
Hi Susan, I am in we of the projects you take on and the quality you get is great. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos. Ben
Very good and very strong
Nice build, and the sanding drum looks great too! Nice photography as well. Well engineered.
The motor appears to have been a nice find, congrats! At first, I thought that you were making a thickness sander due to the pillow blocks and the length of the drum arbor. However, once I read the video description I learned otherwise. I gather from some things you have said that your shop does not have the floor space for a thickness sander though I am certain you would make good use of one and it would be nice for sanding some book matched instrument backs. What we both need are bigger shops with a lot of space for loads of tools. Anyway, my dear lady, this is a great start to a worthwhile project. Thank you for taking us along with you on this adventure.
Peaace!
+Jeffrey Vastine it is a thickness sander. If I had some plans I could have shown them. I'm being 'inspired' by the Jet 22-44 Oscillating Drum Sander but without a motorised feed.
Okay, I thought the "manual lifting system" was a way to adjust the height of the vertical spindle due to the project being labeled as a drum sander which created an image of an oscillating spindle sander in my mind. I have seen sanders like the Jet model, but never heard them called an oscillating drum sander. Now things make a lot more sense. I thought that was a bit of an overkill for an oscillating spindle sander. lol The open-ended design like that of the Jet 22-44 is nice because you are not as restricted as you can effectively process stock up to twice the width of the drum. The only drawback to the design is rigidity as even the cast iron and steel frames will flex. However, if you are not going to be processing hardwoods and making light passes the flex should not be an issue -especially when it comes to making musical instruments. Do you have any idea what material you will be using to support the drum?
Just found your channel and love the first video I have watched. Extremely helpful. I have a similar motor, might be a 1 1/2 ha but looks the same. The clunk on start up is the starter capacitor so perfectly normal. They do run so smooth and quiet which is great. As I have been maki some chopping boards I think I need to make one of these so on to the next video and thanks for sharing. Andy UK
i like how you used an of-set block on your fence so the wood wouldn't bind as you crosscut it.. iv'e seen rookies use the fence itself to crosscut narrow pieces only to have them violently kick back causing hand injuries. i wish high schools still offered wood, metal, and auto shop classes.
I liked your intro, “ I’m going to build a drum sander.” Not try, but going to.👍
Bonjour Susan,
Je découvre ta chaîne tout à fait par hasard car je cherche des idées pour me fabriquer un ponceuse/calibreuse à rouleau et je dois dire que je suis comblé par toutes tes vidéos sur le sujet
Tu as donc un abonné supplémentaire ! 😉
Merci pour tes partages
Des bisous de Corse 😊😊😊
Real good idea. The motor looks great.
Woww You handled the saw smoothly like handling a butter knife
Just found your channel Susan. Fantastic content... all signed up!!
The cut outs to lock the sandpaper great idea 👍
Great Work and Video. Greetings from Austria.
Can't wait to see this progress.
Beautiful lady and smart too!! Nice combination!!
The jumping you hear/feel is the centrifugal switch kicking in and out. When the motor comes up to speed the centrifugal switch disconnects the start winding circuit.
Nice project Sue! Lookong forward to seeing how it all comea together....
My congratulations, my friend, you're d + at your job.
Praise indeed
Beautiful table your working on.
Great project. I tried it once, but attempted the 'open ended drum' design in a wooden frame. Failed miserably. Looks like you're doing it right, but I expect no less from you! Thanks for all the vids, I haven't missed a one.
+Tim Smoot I'm impressed Jet can do an open ended design even with a cast iron frame!
I am very impressed good job Jacques Lacasse Quebec City Canada
Awesome engineering
Hi Susan,I know you have already made your sandpaper drum, but have a look at "Stumpy Nubs" you tube about his latest drum sander. He used thick walled drain pipe but the best thing was how he connected the drums that meant he made more than 1 drum and had different sandpaper grits on each drum instead of having to change out the sandpaper each time. PS I live in the UK also but don't have a good second hand shop where I can get the goodies you have here. Good luck with your channel.
Very good!
You want a press fit on the bearings. Ideally the shaft would be slightly larger by a thou or so, that the ID on the bearing. It would be worth checking out the manufacturers recommendation fro the bearingsThat was the bearing goes around with the shaft. If the shaft is the same size exactly, it will slip with the torque of the motor. I presume that the diameter of the sanding drum is related to the speed the motor runs at, as well as the pulley diameter. Might be worth checking out Matthias Wandel's channel. He has made loads of machinery, or John Heinze. Wondering how the plywood will stand up over time.
Very adventurous build. Looking forward to part two.
+Stephen Gent There's a grub screw on the bearing, but I'll see if I can freeze the shaft and warm (not heat) the bearing.
i will follow this project thank you for sharing ... God bless :)
Nice build, can't wait to see the next one.
Oh , I love the sound of the wood discks going down the tube...! But my little can go crazy!! (I wonder why...)
Excelente trabajo. Felicitaciones.
Hace días quiero hacer una lijadora, pero no he conseguido los materiales necesarios.
Saludos cordiales desde Costa Rica.
Cool trick raising the router bit!
nice vid. really like that vertical drilling arrangement. thanks for sharing.
I love you from America!
Congratulations Susan're amazing.
I enjoyed your video! I hope you don't have any problems with your roller being out of balance. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you!
+Lyle Stoneman I anticipate having to do a balancing after the trying. I've tried to keep the metalwork symmetrical, but I failed to get the bolts exactly opposite each other
I like your bar clamps better than mine. yours have toggles... mine have screwdriver handles.
Nice find on that motor. I wish I could find something like that.
Great video and an interesting build - I particularly like the method to hold the sandpaper. I've seen others try something similar (and report that it didn't hold up with use), but it would be my preferred method if it does last.
I would though really advise against the router table technique starting around the 6 minute mark. I have one thumb shorter than the other as testament to that. I was doing a similar operation some years ago, and the cutter "bit" into the work piece, spinning it suddenly, and pulled my thumb into the cutter. Blink of an eye stuff - no chance to react. I spent about 3 months with limited use of one hand.
A slightly safer alternative would be to do the trimming to a shallow depth (perhaps 1/8" / 3mm of the wheel thickness), as that's unlikely to catch and spin the whole wheel. Then use a bearing guided trimming bit to trim the rest of the wheel thickness to that 3mm guide cut. For that latter operation, the wheel can be manoeuvred on the router table using a push block (like the GRR-RIPPER) - so little chance of injury.
Even better - just make a circle cutting jig for the bandsaw. They can be sanded perfectly round later when they're on the drum (with a sheet of sandpaper on the drum sander's table). I'm assuming you've probably done that sanding step in a later video, but I haven't watched them yet.
+gbspikyfish Good general points. In my case I was very careful to pre-cut the disks close to the pencil line so that I only had to take a millimetre or 2 off with the router. The spindle was close fitting so the disk was being fed firmly with no chatter. I always had 2 hands on the disk and I tried to keep my hands well back from the cutter. Was it safe? I always felt in control and the disk never got away from me. What I would say, is you must ALWAYS feed against the rotation of the cutter or you could have a situation like you describe. Keeping your distance from the work is a good idea too.
I don't think a bandsaw, or at least my bandsaw, could cut a circle with the same accuracy, so you end up spending more time truing the drum later.
I felt I was safe too... right until I found myself driving to hospital with one hand raised in the air, wrapped in a rag. At least the nurse got me through quickly - though probably because I was bleeding all over their waiting room floor ;)
For the bandsaw circle jig; granted you wouldn't get an amazingly smooth circle; but probably good enough for sanding it later. I've just finished watching the rest of the series, and I see you did that sanding step.
The tip on how to cut the taper on the sandpaper (in part 5) is very useful (thanks) - it's something I've wondered about before. I suppose that once you've cut one length, it can be used as a template for future sheets.
I have seen some comments (about these machines in general - including commercial models) that the paper tends to stretch just a bit in use - which is maybe what caused the slack. Whether it will stretch further I don't know, but I guess it's not that big a deal to just tighten it back up now and then.
As noted above - I'd be interested to hear how the holding mechanism stands up to use. It certainly seems like a good solution if it continues working, and the machine overall looks great!
+gbspikyfish I've used it maybe 6 times since the build and did quite a heavy session of thicknessing mahogany boards for the guitar stand video. The Abranet did stretch a little, but it was easy to tighten. As it stretches you notice that the drum bites a bit more at the right hand edge, but it still works fine. The Abranet still looks as new - great stuff. I've only had to tighten by a few millimetres so the stretching is very slight.
Good to hear - thanks. I really must get around to building one... along with all the other projects that need doing :)
great use of the flush trim bit less the bearing! like it!! :-)
Hi I don't own a scroll saw to cut out the paper holders any alternatives thanks. Your skills are impressive. Thanks
What an excellent way to make a sanding drum! The only query would be using plywood, as it can have voids and differing density throughout, which may lead to a bit of rattle or vibration, but that looks like good quality ply which should cut down on that potential. Looking forward to part two! ☺️
That was brilliant! Thanks! Can't wait to see the next part! :)
Quite the process. I like your paper lock better than the one on my Grizzly drum sander which is a lame little spring clip on one end and duct tape on the other.
a little bit clumsy and shy BUT overall a great job . and guys look close !!!! that is how you glue wood :D not to much and well done . thumbs up from germany berlin. big like and an abo from me ;) women building tools i love it
Hi- I really enjoyed watching your sander build- I must say you are a very meticulous woodworker, with more patience than I have. Now that you've had time to live with it, i'm wondering if you have thought about adding a motorized feed belt I pan to build your sander but I think I want to include that feature in mine.
Nice vid Susan. Such a refreshing change to see a fellow Brit on YT. Just one thing occurred to me at the start was i thought it would be easier to drill a smaller hole in the square blanks which would have enabled you to run on a small spindle on the band saw and get a more accurate circle to start with. You could then have lined up later on the pillar drill with the original smaller drill bit and a V jig then drill out the bigger centre hole.
Not a criticism as you are doing a great job.
Keep going, liked and subscribed. Mark
+Mark Valentine valid points. My pillar drill has a load of play and has a habit of jumping a mm. I decided to reference everything to the large hole and then I didn't have to worry about getting the hole accurately placed. Of course the last step was always going to be the router table, so as long as you cut 2mm outside the circle then the pillar drill error might be recoverable. Even with a better pillar drill though I have trouble over-drilling holes accurately
I Understand. i'm really enjoying your vids. just found you this morning. Keep up the good work. Mark
Just saw your Spark Talk. You are one awesome lady!! Mark
I'm curious why you didn't consider pvc pipe for your drum? It's perfectly round, 100-150 mm and you could have still used some of the circular pieces inside the tube for the drive shaft.
PVC pipe explodes when it gets older, or subjected to shock, is prone to cracking when put under tensile strength.
Also it is not very round, and tends to deform over time and exposure to heat.
nice one, i try this but im using zinc shaft 12mm with pvc for sanders placement.
Very well Susie !!!
You certainly are an intrepid maker!
kudos.
Very impressive!
All right miss Gardener, after some years i'm about to look at your videos, wondering how is it possible to have a so small sense of recap, i reaaaaally hope it will be worth the effort. I mean the time. I'll let you know (even if you say "plz no")
Try putting the shaft in ice it might help it slide into the bearings, you could also warm up the bearings as well, not too hot though you'll melt the grease out.
+OldManTony That's the exact advice I got in the tool shop :-)
You could use some 'T" handle allen/hex wrenches.
Starting @ about 5:39 you didn't need to use the router. I put the discs on the shaft and put the sander together then made the whole thing into a lathe. Then I trued up the drum w/ a lathe tool then sand paper.
Where have you gone!!
Jealous that you have a local second-hand tool shop ... transport costs usually kill buying interesting stuff on-line.
Just a point, doesn't the abrasive on these drum sanders usually go on in a spiral pattern, so you actually use a standard 100mm - 150mm roll of abrasive.
+Barry Hopwood I think 100mm might be a little wide to spiral easily. I've ordered a roll of 76mm Abranet Max
great stuff. subscribed a few days ago.
Hi! So I see... Another great idea!! I got a few wood issues about wood work I'd love to discuss with you. Could that be possible?? Thank you in advance, and thank you so much for all your great videos!
You sound like your from uk where is this second hand tool shop do thay have a website. Great video
Good morning Susan, I'm Brazilian, I used your video to build my sander, it's a bit similar to yours, of course your perfect, I'd like to know how to eliminate the vibration, I'm a little inexperienced with the joinery, that's the my first project. Sorry about my English
It sounds like you need to get the drum true. You need to glue sandpaper on a board and keep putting it through the sander until there is no variation in the surface of the drum. I did this in a later video. If that doesn’t fix the vibration then the distribution of the mass of the drum isn’t even. I was very careful to make sure if I had a clamping bolt on one side then I had a similar bolt on the other side across the diameter. You might need to add a screw to one side to balance the drum like you do with lead weights on the wheels of a car. If your bearings are low enough friction then you might find that the drum naturally rests with its heavy side down - in which case you can add weight to the top side to balance it. Good luck - I hope you can balance it. I wrote this in English as translating into Portuguese might not go too well :-)
thanks for answering me. I like to see your happiness when the service is good, the hugs of a Brazilian admirer
I enjoyed this video. Lots of ingenuity involved. Since I’m not as creative do you think a large , thick walled, pvc pipe would work for the drum?
Probably not rigid enough. You could probably reinforce it some way.
@@nathanbarnette1162 if you get the thicker “schedule” pipe you can park a car on it.
Where did you get the hose for you dust extractor? I could do with something similar for my smaller tools. Mine only fits my thicknesser and table saw.
+will kerswell the clear 100mm hose comes with the dust extractor. The smaller black hose that hooks up to hand tools is an accessory. I did a video on the dust extractor 2 months ago which shows all the bits. I find Axminster.co.uk good for dust extractor stuff
wow that motor passes the nickle test
thanks for your video! Question: why not use a aluminum or even steel tube, instead of plywood? thanks!
Others have suggested that, but centring and truing the drum would be very difficult
very clever
the clunk when it started was probably a manual starting / run capacitor engaging
Susan, what a great vid! You are a natural at this. I just subscribed! What do you have to teach me ?
The 127mms probably come from 5", that's the exact conversion. Anyways interesting to see you do this kind of stuff. Soon you will need a metal cutting lathe and a milling machine :p.
great series of videos, is that a Ryobi table saw??
What brand Forstner bits are you using. Mine don't cut anywhere near as well as yours and that's from when they were brand new.
+Fuzzy Johnson It's taken me a while to reply, but I needed to go back to the shop I bought it in to find out. They are Planet forstner bits from Leeside tools - user leeside0 on eBay
Thank you. I bought a cheap set at the home improvement place but they are good for a couple of holes at best. I've tried sharpening them as I need them without much success. I need a good set but I'm trying to avoid paying $400 for it.
How come you didn't use a large PVC pipe instead of stacking so many pieces of plywood to create the cylinder? Would have been easier and lighter.
slightly off topic: what kind of a workbench do you have in this video?
+eygloaradottir do you mean the indoor bench? VidaXL carpenter's bench. I did some videos about it - cheap but it had some issues which needed fixing.
yay! hurrah!!
When you say the axle is alloy, I take that to mean aluminium, but is it that or alloy steel?
It was way too light to be steel.
brilliant!
Nice!
Yes watching your doing a great job except I would use Velcro save yourselves hours of work
Now you need something to sand the wheels Dow. How about a drum sander?
+Pádraig Floyd A recursive drum sander
That's funny. :)
Did you consider drilling (@ 13:15) before sawing (@ 9:00) ?
I think the cutout helps stabilise the disc but I guess it would have been easier for the insert, although the size of the holes in each is different. I think I would have had difficulty getting the disc under the drill if it was whole - my drill press isn’t particularly big.
Don`t sand down the shaft . they are meant to be the same size.. A gentle push on fit, so it makes the bearing work and not , turn the shaft in the bearing, Tap it on with a mallet if ness`..
I would never buy a used electric anything without being able to plug it in before I paid for it. Most things will probably work but sometimes the owner believes it works but hasn't actually checked it for years and other times people will just straight-up lie to you.
127mm is exactly 5 inches. :-)
Papier sable sur tissus