and here I just bought the Harbor Freight wheel balancing tool. Now I feel like a fool. Oh well. I guess I assumed that the wheel needed to be able to spin super free on little wheels in the tool. Love your videos, mate. You rock. You are the best at explaining things
Very true Del, I've mention the paint dot 'trick' to many fitters including one at a race meeting who had no idea what I was talking about!! I totally agree with you regarding the fancy red machine used by fitters, really not that accurate. I used to fit tyres for my mates son and after finding the heavy point of the wheel and marking it I never used a weight no matter what brand of tyre I fitted!
I thought I had this all figured out and I was ready to do it. I watched your video just cuz I like watching your videos. But I'm glad I did cuz I didn't even know that I was to divide the weight between both sides of the wheel! Thanx again
The proper tool for static balance practice is always better then axle stands and a bar.. so you did right to buy one... Thanks for watching and ride safe.. Del.
Many tyres come with a paint dot, this is the lightest part. Align this opposite the heavy point of the wheel, usually the valve but not always, this will reduce the amount of weights needed to balance the wheel. On some of the wheels I have balanced using this method alone results in perfect balance without adding weight. I balance and mark my wheels on my track bike without the tyre on first and then fit the tyre to suit. All the best Del, Steve
gamcelt Cheers Steve, good point, well made... and I know the dots you mean, but not too many people fit their own tyres, so you tend to get what you're given... the paint dot is designed to oppose the valve core, but all too often I see them way out of sync where the fitter hasn't bothered !
Very cool info Del. As I mentioned before I'm in the process of rebuilding an 883 and the last thing I need to do is put a set of tires on it. I was thinking of buying the tires off the internet and was running into problems with shops not wanting to mount them if I didn't buy them from them. I don't mind undertaking the task of mounting the tires, I figure I can do that but I was a bit concerned over balancing the wheels so this was a good find!👍🏻. Thanks for the information. I should be done with the build this week. I'd love to show you when I get it done thanks in large part to the information you have provided. All the best, Steve
nice vids del - your informational and practical everyday rider diy vids - good info always well presented. makes me miss jolly olde england. nice old dodge in the credits .
Thanks buddy, sounds like you made the break and left for sunnier climes, thought of that myself a few times when you stare out at the rain on a grey day, and yeah we loved the ol' Dodge, '67 Coronet R/T , a genuine 440 big block car, picked it up for lousy £6k , I'd probably need 4x that money to buy it back today! Don't we always wish we'd kept them!!
Excellent tips as usual Del. .. I have started going through some steps as you suggested. The tires are in excellent shape, sidewalls, etc. are all good. The weights are still stuck on the wheel and have not fallen off. I need to check the front end and then take the wheel off. I will let you know how I make out.
Moonfleet41 Had the bike out yesterday on the highway. I was in the 80-90 MPH range with no noticeable vibration but the speedo jumps back and forth like crazy. Any idea what that might be?
fivefootsixtriumph Hi Jeff....busy week, only just got near this....ok, when a speedo waves about like that, it usually indicates that the inner magnetic drive is shot, perhaps the impact did more damage than first thought....but if the cable drive is intact and spinning freely, then the speedo will be at fault.. its a ring magnet around a central drive post. and if its cracked ot damaged at all, then the force that hold the needle still will be interrupted.....if you can get your hands on another, then just swap it out buddy.. easy fix. !
Boycie Swindon I came to Swindon once and I know what you mean, it took me hours to exit the roundabout near Manchester Road, I started losing the will to live after about an hour lol!
Nice one Del, Handy to know as I'm getting new whitewalls on my spare spoked wheels next month & the guy doing it said he can't balance them. Cheers, R.S. Al.
Samuel Mccoy Don't waste your money Sam, I'll bet the one you were gonna buy was red and marketed as a 'special tool'... been using this method since I was 16... the only tool will be the bloke who pays out for a 'special machine' lol ...
First place to start is by removing all old weights. Thanks Del boy. I've had my bikes up to 165mph after static balancing, fine. The one time I took it to a "pro" they cocked it up and spoiled my day out.
Blimey, bet that was scary, the tyre guy I use does dynamic balancing in his van, but said more than once, that static balancing is often more accurate and certainly just as good.
@@Moonfleet41 I used to static balance 300mm grinding wheels to run at 2000rpm for gear tooth grinding in a previous life. Yes it looks crude, but done properly it's completely effective.
Hi I really enjoy all you videos and the information you're giving to the riding community. I just wanted to know what you think of tire balancing beads( Dynabeads). I've read that they are easy to use and just as effective as static balancing.
I get a wine when I let go of the handlebars. At low speed the bike will do s turns repeatedly at highway speed I get a fast wobble that gets progressively worse similar to what happens when setting down after a wheelie that can only be corrected if I throttle up. Been wondering how to correct that
Dear Del,I don't know if this is in your line , but I have a harley softail fxst standard , and .have just bought a heritage style front mudguard .The thing is ,that the front wheel (21 x2.5) looks kind of skinny so do you think i could put a 21x 3.5 on ? If i can ,what would i have to do regarding spacers etc ? I have looked on the net ,But i can't seem to get any satisfactory answers.As always ,love your channel.Keep the videos coming ,especially the basic skills .Cheers
I actually have a couple in the w rkshop needing this treatment! I built a few mtb wheels back in the day. just so happen to have some axle stands too. How hard can it be haha. Cool vid man, I pulled apart the 39mm FCR the other day I got, what a fucking mess. I'l post vids when done. Have a mountain of vids to edit when the time comes ;
I made my own static balancer but the car stands too easy! I check horizontal with level just to make sure my world is level then work with wheel. How level stand need to be?
Great video thanks. Curiosity question if wheel is still on bike and you jack it up will it if in proper balance sit where you put it? as mine if you sit wheel with valve at 12 o'clock and let go it drops and settles with valve around 5 o'clock
Great video! In the 2 months I've been subscribed you've taught me how to change the oil in my forks, how to properly plastic-dip my panniers and now I can try this out on my friends bike that's currently in my garage and has a very severe wobble in the front. Have you by any chance considered doing a video on how to change tyres yourself? ;) Looking forward to more tutorial vids in the future!
***** Hi mate, I would never change tyres myself, it's a waste of time and effort without a machine... fine on a bicycle, but for motorbikes, specially with alloy wheels, I'd just take it to a tyre shop and get them to pop them on in a minute ... Glad the videos have helped you out, mate, exactly why we do them - cheers!
Just got through doing this very same thing on both wheels of my '06 Sportster. No farkin WAY was I paying a dealer $168 ($84 per tire) to change out my old tires for the new ones that I had already bought from another source. I'll do it myself and invest the savings in new gear for the bike.
Machinists have these stands (that in a way are similar to the jacks) where two wheels hold the shaft on either side. Once set (true to the world and all square) you can balance stuff within grams. Worth the pay, for any DIY-er with a small to medium garage, to either make or buy an older set of these balancer stands. They can also be made cheaper by using two precision straight rods on a U shaped stand on which the shaft rides. I have my own, made in the 30's, and man, it balances perfectly. Once i set my tire right, it can find stuff within grams. And honestly, that's what you want. The mark of a good balanced wheel is less weights. The more weights you see... the more you need to find another place to balance your stuff.
Brilliant video my back rear tire needs changing so I want to give this a go after I've changed the tire and tube I'm guessing you would do this with the sprocket on, Also what diameter is the tube you're using ? Thanks Del
Hi Luke, yes of course, you can balance with the disc and sprocket in place, or not, it doesn't really matter... but the best is to rebuild the wheel with the sprocket carrier and if you can, actually use the wheel axle... as long as you can get the axle stands close enough without rubbing the tyre, then the axle is best because it fills the hole in the wheel, as that's the best way to put the rod through, it should centre in the wheel, or fill it, for best results, so the bigger the rod the better, or use the axle... good luck with it buddy!
Recently I have been knocked off my 07 CBR and insurance company give me replacement 16 CBF. Now my CBR been written off with category N and I am able to ride it again but as I ride the almost new bike and my 11 years old honda is massive it doesnt feel as nice and responsive. I was wondering can you make a video showing to people how to make their old bike ride as new. I recently rebuild the calipers and after this video will check my wheels as well. But this is what I think is good idea for you to make that video.
Another fine video! Have you ever used a product like Ride-On that is a Hydrodynamic Balancing fluid and Tire Sealant all in one? I have also seen weighted stainless ball balls that go inside a tubeless tire to dynamically balance the wheel as it's rotating. I don't know squat about either, but I know the Speedy is going to need new tires after this season so I am considering my options. Cheers! Mike
Michael Rench Hey Mike....we have a product here called 'Dynabeads', they're minute hard rubber grains about 2mm round...and do much the same to auto balance the wheel in use...but TBH, they are only a final perfecting effect on an already balance wheel..as you saw, even the factory wheel it was still a little out...so they would work real well...also wheels go out of balance in a few months anyway, just pot holes and useage...so the beads are a great way to keep them in check... but its real important to get the as close as possible with a static balance first...only takes a few minutes as you saw, take care both.. L&R.. D&P
Have you ever noticed that on the Harley Davidson 21 inch front wheel there are no weights on any of those wheels just wondering if you know what is the reason for that and that's how they come from the factory.
Hello Del/Penny hope all is well! A question for the QnA, I like to ride with my earphones in, however when I speak to other riders, some say " Yeah I do too" or " O no that's dangerous.." I have the volume low enough to hear what's around me so I don't see it being a big deal, but would love to know what you guys think about using ear phones while riding listening to a little bit of Elvis, Foo Fighters, Stone Sour, you get the idea! :) look forward to the QnA and the many more videos to come! cheers guys!!!
Yes J, That dot on the sidewall is to line up with the valve stem. And just a side note, It's best starting it there then putting the tire on and trying to spin the tire around to get them to line up, Sometimes that's a pain because the tire don't always want to move.
Great vid again Del. Just a quick question about the amount of weights needed. I have just balanced my alloy wheels on my FJR1300 and found the rear needed 20g (10g each side) but the front is working out to be 40g (20g each side). Does that sound a bit excessive for a front wheel? I have looked over it to see if it's gone out of true but it's fine. The only other thing I can think of is the front tyre has become warped as I know the bearings are fine as they are only six months old and feels and sound great??? Your help would be greatly appreciated.
Hi mate, as a general rule of thumb, 30g is about the most you wanna add to a wheel, but with mass produced bikes, and mass produced tyres, you have to add what you have to add... just make sure that the tyre is fitted at the correct rotation, I don't mean the direction, I mean the balance dot must be opposite the valve, so I assume that's fitted correctly... all you can do then is put what weight you need on it and give it a ride and see how it feels... I've had to put 50g on in the past, and the bike rode fine afterwards...!
Thanks for taking the time to read my question and replying to it I really appreciate it. As for the red dot opposite the valve on my front tyre there isn't one unless it's been rubbed off. With the valve at the bottom the 40g weights are positioned between the 10 - 11 o'clock position. I have just had a new Pirelli Angel St fitted to the rear wheel and have just noticed the red dot is in the two o'clock position so should I go back and have it fitted with the red dot opposite the valve? He charged me £10 to fit it so hopefully he won't charge me again lol I static balanced the rear wheel and have put two 10g weights either side and it's balanced perfectly so should I have it refitted or just see how it feels? Really enjoyed part 1 and 2 of the helmet stand build and never even thought about doing something like that and I have everything I need to do it so new project on the horizon thanks to you lol Cheers Del
Hi James, so the rear wheel valve dot is off by a bit?? Well, that's a bit sloppy, but not uncommon... as long as it's not within the same half as the wheel as the valve (if that makes sense!), then it should be ok, and 20g to iron it out is normal, I wouldn't fret on that... it's more critical on the front, and they don't all have a dot, sometimes it takes the form of a little arrow, or triangle pointing towards the rim, moulded in to the rubber on the wall... usually no bigger than 5mm... thanks for your support buddy, and happy we could help!
I just purchased a Tusk torque spoke wrench. I want to check my spokes on my KTM 1290SA. Specifications for the bike is 45 ft/lbs. My question is that if the torque wrench already clics without even turning the nipple, should I back it out and then come back to the correct tension (clic)? I want to make sure they are all at 45 ft/lbs. If I turn back, could this throw off the truing of the wheel?
OK, good point, first thing though is why are you doing this? Do you believe that in some way the spokes need attention and why? You are correct, whenever you're doing a fasteners check it's important to back off the fastener before you attempt to re-torque it, it's the only way to get a true reading, but it's not just done any old how, it has to be backed off in the correct way and then re-torqued in stages................. in the Harley Davidson critical fasteners procedures for instance, many fasteners suggest back off 1/2 turn and re-torque to 50% and then 100%, but the biggest issue, and you said it right, is that backing off spokes you could mis-align the rim,,, not sure if you have a specific reason for doing this, but the very best and most straightforward spoke check is to do a 'ring test'... with the wheel off the ground, take a large screwdriver and with the blade of the screwdriver just tap each spoke in turn and listen for the 'ring' it makes... each spoke should ring the same tone, like a tuning fork, if there is slight variation in the ring tone, then it's not the end of the world, but if there's a dull 'thud' or 'clunk' you've a broken spoke, or it's very loose and needs attention, check that out before you bother loosening them off.
@@Moonfleet41 one of the reasons I wanted to re-torque the wheels is just to have them all at spec numbers. Bought the bike at mid summer last year and put 7000km on it. Most say that it's a good practice to always check your spoke tension. But when using a Torque spoke wrench, if the tension is over the recommended tension (45inch/lbs in my case), the torque wrench is a bit useless. Maybe I'm being to picky on the spoke tension but i'm always the type of guy that likes to make sure all nuts and bolts on my bike are at their specific torque values. Thx for your feedback. I'll do the ring test first and then see what I get. You're the best!
Question: I've heard the balance is affected as the tyre wears also. Is that the case? If so, wouldn't the same principle - i.e. the need to balance - apply? Good video. I live by "use what you have".
2002RM Certainly mate, if you really wanted to be pedantic you should check the wheel balance at least every 3 months (but nobody does!) , as the tyres wear, they don't really affect balancing, but miles on the road with potholes and bumps certainly do, as you saw my wheel was a little out of balance and it's only 3000 miles !
Have you ever used DynoBeads? I have them in my busa which also has CF wheels...which is probably a waste of time, as the guy at the Tyre shop said they where perfectly balanced, but did say as the Tyre wears it could go out. That's the only reason i put DynoBeads in.
I was going to do this manually when I changed my tyres, but I ended up going with DynaBeads instead, they work great and were so easy to use, quick and are always 100% balanced! Good video though Del! :)
be4t.nl On cast wheels its less sensative, specially if they're wider, so you can just fit the weight it needs on one side...but spoked wheels benefit from equalizing the weight both sides...
I been wondering for years bout balanace , you mention hearing the right tune on spokes... I can’t do.. I’m deaf, I have to feel and visually each spokes, starting at valve stem each go around. Also watch for bent rim.
Hi there, that's a good solution, a friend of mine is a guitarist, and uses a little gizmo he bought from a music shop for tuning his guitar, you clip it on to the fret board and it listens to the note and gives a green light as correct, not being a musician, I don't know much about it, but it might be an option if you wanted to check your spokes regularly, perhaps this item could help, sorry I'm not even sure what it's called, but a music shop would know from description.
Depending on the width of the wheel rim, and design, it helps to get them in the middle if you can, like with spoke weights... but if you can't, then evening them out isn't a bad idea !
Can this be done If the motorcycle is on it's centre stand, obviously with front wheel if off the ground. And then removing the front brake calipers so the wheel rotates freely.
Hi Simon, in theory yes it can, but it oculd be beneficial to back off the axle nut and remove the pressure from the bearings and centre tube, just to give it every chance to run freely... I've never actually done it this way myself, but there's nothing to say it doesn't work, because any motorcycle wheel hung between it's fork legs with the axle nut finger tight should spin perfectly smooth and free, in which case you should be able to balance it... good luck with it mate, and let us know how you get on.
It always matters buddy, if you can balance it, then it will give you that peace of mind that it's safe, am sure the bike still does 70mph, which means that wheel is spinning at a mighty speed, so balance is important, maybe not vital on a bike like that, but it's most important that it's not wildly out, so at least check it, if you can.
Richard one very simple rule of thumb: If it rotate, balance it. ;-) A smooth riding bike, either 50cc or 1000cc, it´s always preferable. Beside comfort it last longer. So... Just the other day a mate was complaining is 125 bike was shacking his teeth to death. Curiously among other things complained he couldn´t make use of the rear view mirrors. He was quite "surprised" that after alignment and wheel balanced the shacking was gone and could use the mirrors. Something he never did before. Chinese bike assembly I should say, with less than 1000km. ;-)
please help! !! no one can agree hope u can help ... does a rear motorcycle wheel need balancing ..? I understand the front does .but with the rear doesn't the chain effect the balance as it moves about ???
Hi Matt... yes, your back wheel does need to be in balance, it's never acceptable to have a wheel out of balance.. it can effect braking, cornering, and long term wear... its maybe not as critical as the front. but it does need to be as close as you can get it to balanced mate..!
I know many track guys love the gravity balance, I have a stand that I do my tires on as well, plus its fun to see how static you can get the tire and how still so it wont track at all,,,,How accurate do you think a gravity balancer is VS a new digital machine? Great channel man
Well if it's the chosen favourite of the track guys.. i recon it's more than good enough for the road aye..! And i don't have a dynamic machine to compare it with.. so can't give an opinion on which is best !
For a second I thought you were gonna show how to correct run out on spokes. Also, no mention of spoke weights? They usually look much cleaner than a band of weights stuck on the rim itself and much less chance of "flying" off.
Samuel Feguer Hi Samuel, I tend not to bother with spoke weights, as anything over 10grams, they will be pulling too hard on the end of the spoke... and also, they harbour water in around the base of the nipple, but perfectly fine to use if you prefer... I wouldn't suggest correcting 'run out' yourself, wheel building is an acquired skill...
I just use the actual axle bolt between saw horses, but same technique.....I've got jack stands like that I bought 45 years ago, look exactly the same except they're red...
@@timbarnett3898 Check out my latest video "Astro van front brake pad replacement...." and you'll see them in use! I saw them in the garage and decided to use them just because.... and also because I wasn't getting under the van and I still had the jack under the front!
Great video Del but you really need a conical bearing on the axle tube to hold the wheel central. If you look at your wheel, it is eccentric because the tube is not the exact same diameter as the bearing. My good friend Pete balances my wheels ( and those on his many top spec track bikes) and uses a simple jig, but he has conical bearings. These can be cheaply and easily turned on a lathe. Well done on the top 5. What an achievement. Be good and enjoy the weather:-)
DEL, DEL, DELBOY, I've got to know about that Beautiful bobber that you are on! Is it something that you made or is it a factory build, what year is it? Is it a FatBoy or Bob? And how can I get one!
Best way to balance your motorcycle tire is to use the same axel that is installed on your bike plus the wheel bearings. This way you are using all the elements that will be involved when installation is complete.
DEL! Hey brother, I can't thank you enough for what you do and more so How you do it. I really dig the, make the tool your self parts of your video's. So let me ask, did you get your knowledge through an Institution, or, the school of hard knocks and shade trees? And Two, How come you don't have Miss Penny wobble, wobble herself out from behind the camera so we can meet and get to know her also? that would be nice of you to let her out of that photo box for some fresh air now and then. Just Asking :>}. Again, Thank You! I'd be lost in so many ways and spent so much more money on my H-D 2000 FXSTD Softail Deuce then I needed to if it wasn't for your contribution to your fellow Rider.
Thanks for your kind feedback mate, am glad you enjoy the videos... I picked up my lifetime of knowledge from many sources, right from childhood, we never stop learning aye? Take care and look after that Deuce, they're a rare bike now!
Hi, can you balance the wheel by leaving it on the bike, either removing the chain and backing off the brake pads and loosening the axle nut, great videos by the way, cheers
I have never done that myself...but you'd need the wheel totally naked.. caliper itself off...chain off and even then, im not so sure you'll get a real free spin with the axle bolted up tight..!?? good luck with it.. Del.
DYNABEADS! Little ceramic balls, you pour 'em into the valve with the valve-stem removed. Once you start the wheel spinning, they find their way into the correct places and the wheel is balanced automatically.....
How hard did Pen slap you when you said, " even she could do it"? Give her your credit card to make up so she can go buy a new dress or something. Just funning you mate. As always good video.
I used to work for a 'fast fit' garage, the blue and yellow rob dogs, anyway, you wouldn't believe the folk that could get it so wrong using one of them expensive red machines!!! Those machines are only as good as the bloke calibrating them and the monkey using them. I was only happy when I was within a gram or 2, according to the machine lol.
This method will only balance a wheel axially. On high performance bikes i'd suggest taking it to a shop to get it balanced both axially and laterally. But brilliant video, as always!
You could do as long as you take everything off that will rub on it like brake calipers, and as long as the wheel bearings are perfect and really free rolling.. then you will get some form of reading..!
The friction and loose fit on that funky piece of tubing would probably make a difference to the process and reduce accuracy. the whole point of having the balancing stand is to reduce that friction with bearings centered at the axle point.
1000s of people have found otherwise. Myself included. You don't have to spend money on fancy overpriced gimmicks to get a job done. You can balance car wheels with a pole and a cone shaped jobbie with a circular spirit level on. This isn't rocket surgery, it's balance.
The chrome wheel is even LESS acceptable to use the screwdriver to scratch it as it spins. Always use a sharpie marker - preferably use a few colours so you can tell which marks were made via which tests. Hell - even I knew this as a 16yr-old building my own wheels without so much as a library book to help me. I hybridized a '69 CB100 with '70 SL100, using both rear rims spokes tires on swapped hubs, such that the CB rear wheel was up front with the SL front drum in it, while the SL100 rear wheel ran with the cush-drive type CB rear hub in it! Shrouded the SL fork, combined the exhausts, etc etc. A cool lil' cafe racer even before I'd heard the term. Found them at a garage sale, $125 for the SL then another $60 for the CB as a "parts bike" - It was stolen, and I even know who stole it. Almost 30yrs on, but I'll track 'em down eventually..... ANYWAY yeah - without any guide to wheel building, and I knew not to scratch the shite out of that chrome.....
This video may be old, but my bike is even older and has given me the confidence to give it a go myself!
I would say one of the simplest but detailed explanation about balancing. Brilliant staff! Simply the best. Thanks a lot for sharing!
Thank you for your kind words my friend, thats very much appreciated..
You've just made my weekend mate. No garage in the area wanted to swap the tyres on my bike 😂
and here I just bought the Harbor Freight wheel balancing tool. Now I feel like a fool. Oh well. I guess I assumed that the wheel needed to be able to spin super free on little wheels in the tool. Love your videos, mate. You rock. You are the best at explaining things
Delboy you are amazing for sharing your knowledge, thank you. You are educating and saving people so much money
Classic Delboy's Garage stuff! Really well explained! Cheers Del!
Very true Del, I've mention the paint dot 'trick' to many fitters including one at a race meeting who had no idea what I was talking about!! I totally agree with you regarding the fancy red machine used by fitters, really not that accurate. I used to fit tyres for my mates son and after finding the heavy point of the wheel and marking it I never used a weight no matter what brand of tyre I fitted!
Great video.
And good timing too, I am changing my tyres next week and going to balance them as well..
i learn something new with every video, thanks for everything youve done delboy
matthew wyatt Thanks Matt, glad you liked it.
I thought I had this all figured out and I was ready to do it. I watched your video just cuz I like watching your videos. But I'm glad I did cuz I didn't even know that I was to divide the weight between both sides of the wheel! Thanx again
The proper tool for static balance practice is always better then axle stands and a bar.. so you did right to buy one... Thanks for watching and ride safe.. Del.
Thank you much for sharing this experience. Would seriously help me, to work on my bike myself.
Many tyres come with a paint dot, this is the lightest part. Align this opposite the heavy point of the wheel, usually the valve but not always, this will reduce the amount of weights needed to balance the wheel. On some of the wheels I have balanced using this method alone results in perfect balance without adding weight. I balance and mark my wheels on my track bike without the tyre on first and then fit the tyre to suit. All the best Del, Steve
gamcelt Cheers Steve, good point, well made... and I know the dots you mean, but not too many people fit their own tyres, so you tend to get what you're given... the paint dot is designed to oppose the valve core, but all too often I see them way out of sync where the fitter hasn't bothered !
Very cool info Del. As I mentioned before I'm in the process of rebuilding an 883 and the last thing I need to do is put a set of tires on it. I was thinking of buying the tires off the internet and was running into problems with shops not wanting to mount them if I didn't buy them from them. I don't mind undertaking the task of mounting the tires, I figure I can do that but I was a bit concerned over balancing the wheels so this was a good find!👍🏻. Thanks for the information. I should be done with the build this week. I'd love to show you when I get it done thanks in large part to the information you have provided.
All the best,
Steve
+Steve Miller Nice going Steve, im glad you're getting stuck in there yourself, good luck with it, and thanks for watching the video..take care.. Del.
nice vids del - your informational and practical everyday rider diy vids - good info always well presented. makes me miss jolly olde england. nice old dodge in the credits .
Thanks buddy, sounds like you made the break and left for sunnier climes, thought of that myself a few times when you stare out at the rain on a grey day, and yeah we loved the ol' Dodge, '67 Coronet R/T , a genuine 440 big block car, picked it up for lousy £6k , I'd probably need 4x that money to buy it back today! Don't we always wish we'd kept them!!
Great video Del not going to do it on my BMW GS rear wheel though. Definitely going to try it on the front though.
Great info to get out, even to the older riders who have never done this !!! Great vid,,
Ride Safe......
hdfatboy329 Simple and effective on any wheels buddy... thanks for watching!
Excellent tips as usual Del. .. I have started going through some steps as you suggested. The tires are in excellent shape, sidewalls, etc. are all good. The weights are still stuck on the wheel and have not fallen off. I need to check the front end and then take the wheel off. I will let you know how I make out.
fivefootsixtriumph Good call Jeff, it's never wrong to get stuck in and give it a good check... you must be about ready for the road now mate??
Moonfleet41 Had the bike out yesterday on the highway. I was in the 80-90 MPH range with no noticeable vibration but the speedo jumps back and forth like crazy. Any idea what that might be?
fivefootsixtriumph Hi Jeff....busy week, only just got near this....ok, when a speedo waves about like that, it usually indicates that the inner magnetic drive is shot, perhaps the impact did more damage than first thought....but if the cable drive is intact and spinning freely, then the speedo will be at fault.. its a ring magnet around a central drive post. and if its cracked ot damaged at all, then the force that hold the needle still will be interrupted.....if you can get your hands on another, then just swap it out buddy.. easy fix. !
Brilliant as usual Del 👍
Glad you enjoyed it mate, thanks for your feedback.
thank you for sharing your experience.
Thanks Del,great wizardry now downloaded..
Once again... thanks! Saved me $$$!
Thanks Buddy this is real good tip to save a a little money :)
Now I know why I can't exit roundabouts lol. I'll be putting that great advice into action very soon, thanks for sharing Del 😊
Boycie Swindon I came to Swindon once and I know what you mean, it took me hours to exit the roundabout near Manchester Road, I started losing the will to live after about an hour lol!
Got to love the famous Magic Roundabout 😎
Great job old chap! 👍😎
Nice one Del, Handy to know as I'm getting new whitewalls on my spare spoked wheels next month & the guy doing it said he can't balance them. Cheers,
R.S. Al.
Awesome video , I was going to buy a 50.00 harbor freight static balance tool. Well I have plenty of jack stands. Thanks a bunch.
Sam AKA Big Q.
Samuel Mccoy Don't waste your money Sam, I'll bet the one you were gonna buy was red and marketed as a 'special tool'... been using this method since I was 16... the only tool will be the bloke who pays out for a 'special machine' lol ...
Thanks for the top tip fella,
Fixed my wobble thanks for the help
First place to start is by removing all old weights. Thanks Del boy. I've had my bikes up to 165mph after static balancing, fine. The one time I took it to a "pro" they cocked it up and spoiled my day out.
Blimey, bet that was scary, the tyre guy I use does dynamic balancing in his van, but said more than once, that static balancing is often more accurate and certainly just as good.
@@Moonfleet41 I used to static balance 300mm grinding wheels to run at 2000rpm for gear tooth grinding in a previous life.
Yes it looks crude, but done properly it's completely effective.
Awesome video... I greatly appreciate you
Thank you kindly Sir, we really appreciate your long term support!
Hi I really enjoy all you videos and the information you're giving to the riding community. I just wanted to know what you think of tire balancing beads( Dynabeads). I've read that they are easy to use and just as effective as static balancing.
Hi Del What is the Offset on the rear bonni im about to relace the rear wheel on my 02 bonni, but i need the rear Offset.!
good job mate, hello from austin texas
Good to hear from you all the way from Austin!
how about the front of the bike bouncy as ride it.. Any recommendations?
I get a wine when I let go of the handlebars. At low speed the bike will do s turns repeatedly at highway speed I get a fast wobble that gets progressively worse similar to what happens when setting down after a wheelie that can only be corrected if I throttle up. Been wondering how to correct that
Dear Del,I don't know if this is in your line , but I have a harley softail fxst standard , and .have just bought a heritage style front mudguard .The thing is ,that the front wheel (21 x2.5) looks kind of skinny so do you think i could put a 21x 3.5 on ? If i can ,what would i have to do regarding spacers etc ? I have looked on the net ,But i can't seem to get any satisfactory answers.As always ,love your channel.Keep the videos coming ,especially the basic skills .Cheers
I actually have a couple in the w rkshop needing this treatment! I built a few mtb wheels back in the day. just so happen to have some axle stands too. How hard can it be haha. Cool vid man, I pulled apart the 39mm FCR the other day I got, what a fucking mess. I'l post vids when done. Have a mountain of vids to edit when the time comes ;
cheers mate good video very helpful
No problem 👍
I made my own static balancer but the car stands too easy! I check horizontal with level just to make sure my world is level then work with wheel. How level stand need to be?
Great video thanks. Curiosity question if wheel is still on bike and you jack it up will it if in proper balance sit where you put it? as mine if you sit wheel with valve at 12 o'clock and let go it drops and settles with valve around 5 o'clock
If you're worried buddy, just drop it out of the bike and check it free from any hindrance...
Nice job - thanks.
Great video! In the 2 months I've been subscribed you've taught me how to change the oil in my forks, how to properly plastic-dip my panniers and now I can try this out on my friends bike that's currently in my garage and has a very severe wobble in the front. Have you by any chance considered doing a video on how to change tyres yourself? ;)
Looking forward to more tutorial vids in the future!
***** Hi mate, I would never change tyres myself, it's a waste of time and effort without a machine... fine on a bicycle, but for motorbikes, specially with alloy wheels, I'd just take it to a tyre shop and get them to pop them on in a minute ... Glad the videos have helped you out, mate, exactly why we do them - cheers!
Just got through doing this very same thing on both wheels of my '06 Sportster. No farkin WAY was I paying a dealer $168 ($84 per tire) to change out my old tires for the new ones that I had already bought from another source. I'll do it myself and invest the savings in new gear for the bike.
Hi, can you please advise me about tyre changes. I have a 2023 RE INTERCEPTOR and was wondering if I can change my Bias tyres to Radials?
Machinists have these stands (that in a way are similar to the jacks) where two wheels hold the shaft on either side. Once set (true to the world and all square) you can balance stuff within grams. Worth the pay, for any DIY-er with a small to medium garage, to either make or buy an older set of these balancer stands. They can also be made cheaper by using two precision straight rods on a U shaped stand on which the shaft rides.
I have my own, made in the 30's, and man, it balances perfectly. Once i set my tire right, it can find stuff within grams. And honestly, that's what you want. The mark of a good balanced wheel is less weights. The more weights you see... the more you need to find another place to balance your stuff.
Saw u driving a big yellow bus earlier I was thinking where do I know that face then it clicked (Delboys garage) keep up the good work matey
Andrew james Damn.....Bus'ted....(did you see what i did there.?) where did you see me mate..?
Subway in wallis down quite a lot of traffic I was filtering and saw you
best montage ever
Yonatan Ofek Thanks mate... very kind.
Brilliant video my back rear tire needs changing so I want to give this a go after I've changed the tire and tube I'm guessing you would do this with the sprocket on, Also what diameter is the tube you're using ? Thanks Del
Hi Luke, yes of course, you can balance with the disc and sprocket in place, or not, it doesn't really matter... but the best is to rebuild the wheel with the sprocket carrier and if you can, actually use the wheel axle... as long as you can get the axle stands close enough without rubbing the tyre, then the axle is best because it fills the hole in the wheel, as that's the best way to put the rod through, it should centre in the wheel, or fill it, for best results, so the bigger the rod the better, or use the axle... good luck with it buddy!
Recently I have been knocked off my 07 CBR and insurance company give me replacement 16 CBF. Now my CBR been written off with category N and I am able to ride it again but as I ride the almost new bike and my 11 years old honda is massive it doesnt feel as nice and responsive. I was wondering can you make a video showing to people how to make their old bike ride as new. I recently rebuild the calipers and after this video will check my wheels as well. But this is what I think is good idea for you to make that video.
Another fine video! Have you ever used a product like Ride-On that is a Hydrodynamic Balancing fluid and Tire Sealant all in one? I have also seen weighted stainless ball balls that go inside a tubeless tire to dynamically balance the wheel as it's rotating. I don't know squat about either, but I know the Speedy is going to need new tires after this season so I am considering my options.
Cheers!
Mike
Michael Rench Hey Mike....we have a product here called 'Dynabeads', they're minute hard rubber grains about 2mm round...and do much the same to auto balance the wheel in use...but TBH, they are only a final perfecting effect on an already balance wheel..as you saw, even the factory wheel it was still a little out...so they would work real well...also wheels go out of balance in a few months anyway, just pot holes and useage...so the beads are a great way to keep them in check... but its real important to get the as close as possible with a static balance first...only takes a few minutes as you saw, take care both.. L&R.. D&P
Hello! Do I have to balance spoke wheels on a Sportster if I change my tubes and tires?
Well it's certainly worth checking them my friend, they shouldn't be too far out as long as the tyres were mounted correctly...
👍👍👍👍 thank you
Have been wondering, how closely does that bar through the axle hole need to fit the hole or is that not an issue?
Neil Pieterse Not an issue Neil, the bar will stay still and the bearings to the work either way!
Have you ever noticed that on the Harley Davidson 21 inch front wheel there are no weights on any of those wheels just wondering if you know what is the reason for that and that's how they come from the factory.
Hello Del/Penny hope all is well! A question for the QnA, I like to ride with my earphones in, however when I speak to other riders, some say " Yeah I do too" or " O no that's dangerous.." I have the volume low enough to hear what's around me so I don't see it being a big deal, but would love to know what you guys think about using ear phones while riding listening to a little bit of Elvis, Foo Fighters, Stone Sour, you get the idea! :) look forward to the QnA and the many more videos to come! cheers guys!!!
Do you know if the circle that is imprinted on a new tire is supposed to go by the valve stem? Is that a sort of pre-mounting balance at the factory?
Yes J,
That dot on the sidewall is to line up with the valve stem.
And just a side note, It's best starting it there then putting the tire on and trying to spin the tire around to get them to line up, Sometimes that's a pain because the tire don't always want to move.
Thanks so much! 🙏🏽
Great vid again Del. Just a quick question about the amount of weights needed. I have just balanced my alloy wheels on my FJR1300 and found the rear needed 20g (10g each side) but the front is working out to be 40g (20g each side). Does that sound a bit excessive for a front wheel? I have looked over it to see if it's gone out of true but it's fine. The only other thing I can think of is the front tyre has become warped as I know the bearings are fine as they are only six months old and feels and sound great??? Your help would be greatly appreciated.
Hi mate, as a general rule of thumb, 30g is about the most you wanna add to a wheel, but with mass produced bikes, and mass produced tyres, you have to add what you have to add... just make sure that the tyre is fitted at the correct rotation, I don't mean the direction, I mean the balance dot must be opposite the valve, so I assume that's fitted correctly... all you can do then is put what weight you need on it and give it a ride and see how it feels... I've had to put 50g on in the past, and the bike rode fine afterwards...!
Thanks for taking the time to read my question and replying to it I really appreciate it. As for the red dot opposite the valve on my front tyre there isn't one unless it's been rubbed off. With the valve at the bottom the 40g weights are positioned between the 10 - 11 o'clock position. I have just had a new Pirelli Angel St fitted to the rear wheel and have just noticed the red dot is in the two o'clock position so should I go back and have it fitted with the red dot opposite the valve? He charged me £10 to fit it so hopefully he won't charge me again lol I static balanced the rear wheel and have put two 10g weights either side and it's balanced perfectly so should I have it refitted or just see how it feels? Really enjoyed part 1 and 2 of the helmet stand build and never even thought about doing something like that and I have everything I need to do it so new project on the horizon thanks to you lol Cheers Del
Hi James, so the rear wheel valve dot is off by a bit?? Well, that's a bit sloppy, but not uncommon... as long as it's not within the same half as the wheel as the valve (if that makes sense!), then it should be ok, and 20g to iron it out is normal, I wouldn't fret on that... it's more critical on the front, and they don't all have a dot, sometimes it takes the form of a little arrow, or triangle pointing towards the rim, moulded in to the rubber on the wall... usually no bigger than 5mm... thanks for your support buddy, and happy we could help!
I just purchased a Tusk torque spoke wrench. I want to check my spokes on my KTM 1290SA. Specifications for the bike is 45 ft/lbs. My question is that if the torque wrench already clics without even turning the nipple, should I back it out and then come back to the correct tension (clic)? I want to make sure they are all at 45 ft/lbs. If I turn back, could this throw off the truing of the wheel?
OK, good point, first thing though is why are you doing this? Do you believe that in some way the spokes need attention and why? You are correct, whenever you're doing a fasteners check it's important to back off the fastener before you attempt to re-torque it, it's the only way to get a true reading, but it's not just done any old how, it has to be backed off in the correct way and then re-torqued in stages................. in the Harley Davidson critical fasteners procedures for instance, many fasteners suggest back off 1/2 turn and re-torque to 50% and then 100%, but the biggest issue, and you said it right, is that backing off spokes you could mis-align the rim,,, not sure if you have a specific reason for doing this, but the very best and most straightforward spoke check is to do a 'ring test'... with the wheel off the ground, take a large screwdriver and with the blade of the screwdriver just tap each spoke in turn and listen for the 'ring' it makes... each spoke should ring the same tone, like a tuning fork, if there is slight variation in the ring tone, then it's not the end of the world, but if there's a dull 'thud' or 'clunk' you've a broken spoke, or it's very loose and needs attention, check that out before you bother loosening them off.
@@Moonfleet41 one of the reasons I wanted to re-torque the wheels is just to have them all at spec numbers. Bought the bike at mid summer last year and put 7000km on it. Most say that it's a good practice to always check your spoke tension. But when using a Torque spoke wrench, if the tension is over the recommended tension (45inch/lbs in my case), the torque wrench is a bit useless. Maybe I'm being to picky on the spoke tension but i'm always the type of guy that likes to make sure all nuts and bolts on my bike are at their specific torque values. Thx for your feedback. I'll do the ring test first and then see what I get. You're the best!
Question: I've heard the balance is affected as the tyre wears also. Is that the case? If so, wouldn't the same principle - i.e. the need to balance - apply? Good video. I live by "use what you have".
2002RM Certainly mate, if you really wanted to be pedantic you should check the wheel balance at least every 3 months (but nobody does!) , as the tyres wear, they don't really affect balancing, but miles on the road with potholes and bumps certainly do, as you saw my wheel was a little out of balance and it's only 3000 miles !
Do you need to make sure the axle is level when you do this?
one of my wheel weights came off the other day it made some noise when it hit the car behind me
Alister armstrong haha, I like that !
Have you ever used DynoBeads? I have them in my busa which also has CF wheels...which is probably a waste of time, as the guy at the Tyre shop said they where perfectly balanced, but did say as the Tyre wears it could go out. That's the only reason i put DynoBeads in.
Keith Smale Hi Keith, never used Dynabeads, but i hear lots of good reports about them.. Carbon rims your your Busa?....kewl..!
I was going to do this manually when I changed my tyres, but I ended up going with DynaBeads instead, they work great and were so easy to use, quick and are always 100% balanced! Good video though Del! :)
Josh Bonfield Dyna beads are great for tubelsee boots...but naturally dont work in tubes...which are most likely to be badly balanced. good tip mate.
So why do they put weights on one side sometime..can test that with axle stands as well?
be4t.nl On cast wheels its less sensative, specially if they're wider, so you can just fit the weight it needs on one side...but spoked wheels benefit from equalizing the weight both sides...
I been wondering for years bout balanace , you mention hearing the right tune on spokes... I can’t do.. I’m deaf, I have to feel and visually each spokes, starting at valve stem each go around. Also watch for bent rim.
Hi there, that's a good solution, a friend of mine is a guitarist, and uses a little gizmo he bought from a music shop for tuning his guitar, you clip it on to the fret board and it listens to the note and gives a green light as correct, not being a musician, I don't know much about it, but it might be an option if you wanted to check your spokes regularly, perhaps this item could help, sorry I'm not even sure what it's called, but a music shop would know from description.
Quick question
With alloy rims do u put half the weights either side .would just one side cause issues ?
Depending on the width of the wheel rim, and design, it helps to get them in the middle if you can, like with spoke weights... but if you can't, then evening them out isn't a bad idea !
So I have dual disk brakes , do you balance with the disk on or off ?
Always with discs ON buddy..
Can this be done If the motorcycle is on it's centre stand, obviously with front wheel if off the ground. And then removing the front brake calipers so the wheel rotates freely.
Hi Simon, in theory yes it can, but it oculd be beneficial to back off the axle nut and remove the pressure from the bearings and centre tube, just to give it every chance to run freely... I've never actually done it this way myself, but there's nothing to say it doesn't work, because any motorcycle wheel hung between it's fork legs with the axle nut finger tight should spin perfectly smooth and free, in which case you should be able to balance it... good luck with it mate, and let us know how you get on.
@@Moonfleet41 cool, I will give it a try👍😊 a great video thx
Thanks Del .
hi should you balance a 125 tire as well or does it not matter as much? thanks
It always matters buddy, if you can balance it, then it will give you that peace of mind that it's safe, am sure the bike still does 70mph, which means that wheel is spinning at a mighty speed, so balance is important, maybe not vital on a bike like that, but it's most important that it's not wildly out, so at least check it, if you can.
Richard one very simple rule of thumb:
If it rotate, balance it. ;-)
A smooth riding bike, either 50cc or 1000cc, it´s always preferable. Beside comfort it last longer. So...
Just the other day a mate was complaining is 125 bike was shacking his teeth to death. Curiously among other things complained he couldn´t make use of the rear view mirrors. He was quite "surprised" that after alignment and wheel balanced the shacking was gone and could use the mirrors. Something he never did before. Chinese bike assembly I should say, with less than 1000km. ;-)
Hi, what do you think about the balancing ceramic beads?
"Dynabeads" if i remember rightly.. i absolutely love the simple physics of that system !
please help! !! no one can agree hope u can help ... does a rear motorcycle wheel need balancing ..? I understand the front does .but with the rear doesn't the chain effect the balance as it moves about ???
Hi Matt... yes, your back wheel does need to be in balance, it's never acceptable to have a wheel out of balance.. it can effect braking, cornering, and long term wear... its maybe not as critical as the front. but it does need to be as close as you can get it to balanced mate..!
Moonfleet41 cheers for taking the time to respond ...why do some not bother to balance rear though ...I just done understand their logic??!
I know many track guys love the gravity balance, I have a stand that I do my tires on as well, plus its fun to see how static you can get the tire and how still so it wont track at all,,,,How accurate do you think a gravity balancer is VS a new digital machine? Great channel man
Well if it's the chosen favourite of the track guys.. i recon it's more than good enough for the road aye..! And i don't have a dynamic machine to compare it with.. so can't give an opinion on which is best !
❤❤❤❤❤
"Even she could do this" LOL. Love the early vids DEl
Cheers Stewart, glad you enjoyed mate !
Nice one
For a second I thought you were gonna show how to correct run out on spokes. Also, no mention of spoke weights? They usually look much cleaner than a band of weights stuck on the rim itself and much less chance of "flying" off.
Samuel Feguer Hi Samuel, I tend not to bother with spoke weights, as anything over 10grams, they will be pulling too hard on the end of the spoke... and also, they harbour water in around the base of the nipple, but perfectly fine to use if you prefer... I wouldn't suggest correcting 'run out' yourself, wheel building is an acquired skill...
I just use the actual axle bolt between saw horses, but same technique.....I've got jack stands like that I bought 45 years ago, look exactly the same except they're red...
Bob's Barn Workshop mine are red too, haha
@@timbarnett3898 Check out my latest video "Astro van front brake pad replacement...." and you'll see them in use! I saw them in the garage and decided to use them just because.... and also because I wasn't getting under the van and I still had the jack under the front!
Nice
what about using spoke weights instead of the flat weights
A weight is a weight buddy, use whatever works for you...
Great video Del but you really need a conical bearing on the axle tube to hold the wheel central. If you look at your wheel, it is eccentric because the tube is not the exact same diameter as the bearing. My good friend Pete balances my wheels ( and those on his many top spec track bikes) and uses a simple jig, but he has conical bearings. These can be cheaply and easily turned on a lathe. Well done on the top 5. What an achievement. Be good and enjoy the weather:-)
DEL, DEL, DELBOY,
I've got to know about that Beautiful bobber that you are on!
Is it something that you made or is it a factory build, what year is it? Is it a FatBoy or Bob?
And how can I get one!
If you mean the green one, it was a 2000 FatBoy, bought it as an unfinished project many years ago and finished it off with some cool touches!
Best way to balance your motorcycle tire is to use the same axel that is installed on your bike plus the wheel bearings. This way you are using all the elements that will be involved when installation is complete.
DEL!
Hey brother, I can't thank you enough for what you do and more so How you do it.
I really dig the, make the tool your self parts of your video's.
So let me ask, did you get your knowledge through an Institution, or, the school of hard knocks and shade trees?
And Two, How come you don't have Miss Penny wobble, wobble herself out from behind the camera so we can meet and get to know her also? that would be nice of you to let her out of that photo box for some fresh air now and then. Just Asking :>}.
Again, Thank You! I'd be lost in so many ways and spent so much more money on my
H-D 2000 FXSTD Softail Deuce then I needed to if it wasn't for your contribution to your fellow Rider.
Thanks for your kind feedback mate, am glad you enjoy the videos... I picked up my lifetime of knowledge from many sources, right from childhood, we never stop learning aye? Take care and look after that Deuce, they're a rare bike now!
excellent video. Your superb for this tutorial stuff ! thank you ( get a mic ( clip on or of sorts ;) ) )
Check our current videos, this is very old... thanks for your kind words.
I got a static balancing frame from eBay for about 20 quid. Cheap and Chinese but doesn't really matter.
Hi, can you balance the wheel by leaving it on the bike, either removing the chain and backing off the brake pads and loosening the axle nut, great videos by the way, cheers
I have never done that myself...but you'd need the wheel totally naked.. caliper itself off...chain off and even then, im not so sure you'll get a real free spin with the axle bolted up tight..!?? good luck with it.. Del.
DYNABEADS! Little ceramic balls, you pour 'em into the valve with the valve-stem removed. Once you start the wheel spinning, they find their way into the correct places and the wheel is balanced automatically.....
Can you not just use the original wheel spindle bolt instead of a piece of bar?
as long as it protrudes out enough to reach the stands and nothing rubs such as the tyre on the frames etc.
@@Moonfleet41 Cheers Delboy
How hard did Pen slap you when you said, " even she could do it"? Give her your credit card to make up so she can go buy a new dress or something. Just funning you mate. As always good video.
Wire wheels in Warwickshire will never wobble --- if they are balanced.
I used to work for a 'fast fit' garage, the blue and yellow rob dogs, anyway, you wouldn't believe the folk that could get it so wrong using one of them expensive red machines!!! Those machines are only as good as the bloke calibrating them and the monkey using them. I was only happy when I was within a gram or 2, according to the machine lol.
Terry 'Turbotez' Grainger Blue and yellow rob dogs lol !... how come I know exactly what company you mean !!
ice
That looks kinda therapeutic. Do you know how to fix my wifi while you're at it? :p
The Gentleman Biker Your 'wife'...did you mean?..
Hahaha! No, but she does have a bad back at the moment if you can handle some heavy swearing!
Weebles wobble but they Don't fall down...
This method will only balance a wheel axially. On high performance bikes i'd suggest taking it to a shop to get it balanced both axially and laterally. But brilliant video, as always!
Why can't a person just balance the wheel while it's on the bike?
You could do as long as you take everything off that will rub on it like brake calipers, and as long as the wheel bearings are perfect and really free rolling.. then you will get some form of reading..!
The friction and loose fit on that funky piece of tubing would probably make a difference to the process and reduce accuracy. the whole point of having the balancing stand is to reduce that friction with bearings centered at the axle point.
1000s of people have found otherwise. Myself included.
You don't have to spend money on fancy overpriced gimmicks to get a job done.
You can balance car wheels with a pole and a cone shaped jobbie with a circular spirit level on.
This isn't rocket surgery, it's balance.
The chrome wheel is even LESS acceptable to use the screwdriver to scratch it as it spins. Always use a sharpie marker - preferably use a few colours so you can tell which marks were made via which tests. Hell - even I knew this as a 16yr-old building my own wheels without so much as a library book to help me. I hybridized a '69 CB100 with '70 SL100, using both rear rims spokes tires on swapped hubs, such that the CB rear wheel was up front with the SL front drum in it, while the SL100 rear wheel ran with the cush-drive type CB rear hub in it! Shrouded the SL fork, combined the exhausts, etc etc. A cool lil' cafe racer even before I'd heard the term. Found them at a garage sale, $125 for the SL then another $60 for the CB as a "parts bike" - It was stolen, and I even know who stole it. Almost 30yrs on, but I'll track 'em down eventually..... ANYWAY yeah - without any guide to wheel building, and I knew not to scratch the shite out of that chrome.....