Hunger 9a: a fourteen year journey
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- čas přidán 16. 06. 2024
- In 2007 I gave up on the idea of climbing Hunger, 9a. Over ten years later, I returned as a better climber and finished the job. But not without a carefully planned and executed preparation.
My book on training for climbing:
www.davemacleod.com/shop/9out... - Sport
Thanks for all the kind comments folks. Lots of you asked on here and in private how I did the 'leg muscle trim'. I'll make a dedicated episode on this shortly. Do subscribe if you want to see it.
I'm so glad to hear this, I've been kind of struggling with this issue for a while. Actually, this year I was directly asked by a girl in Céüse if I was doing leg sports :D (I don't ).
I am also curious about the single carabiner used on the redpoint. Did you choose to forego the dogbone for a specific reason?
Thank you Dave, your hard work is eternally motivating. Would mind sharing your device set-up for how you self belayed to work the crux? Much respect...
@@terenceoneill8306 There is a spiky boulder below the main crux and there's a chance you could land on it with a quickdraw on that bolt.
@@Climbmoore Thanks. See Vlog #4 for the self-belay setup.
Dave you are an absolute gem. Your vlog is one of the greatest gifts to the climbing community. Thank you for sharing this story.... this is a beautiful video.
This channel is simply THE premier rock climbing video content of the decade
So what you're saying is that all I have to do to climb 9a is not eat raspberry cheesecake? Tis too high a price.
Just ate one last weekend 😳
So Hunger turned out to be the right name for it.
Dave that was amazing!! Stellar work and commitment on the project!
I get upset when I can't complete a project before my gym resets.... and here you are working them for years with starry eyes. So inspiring.
It can be really frustrating, indeed, when that happens, specially when you were getting really close of sending the route.
But don't forget that outdoors never resets, so this doesn't mean we're not putting enough effort or dedication in our projects, they're just temporary.
Ah man, absolutely magnificent Dave! Really loved the build up to the climb as well as the explanation through your training regiment. Also the silence of the climb really made it all feel so impactful. Great video, thanks!
This is a man dedicated to his craft. What an honor to watch the process and celebrate with you in your success! Thank you Dave!
Great video, and congrats on the send!
Amazing work. Congratulations!
Okey that's it. I declare this the best climbing channel on CZcams. I held out for a while because I love Magnus, but with this video there's no dispute really. Intercutting the board training with the route is brilliant.
What an incredible inspiration .
Thank you Dave !
Well done Dave! Great video, too!
awesome video!!! keep learning so much from you! thanks for going through all the trouble and putting these out there!!!
congratulations Dave, great work, great video!
Congrats! Really inspiring vlog. Thank you for your effort in making these videos.
Massive Congrats Dave!! keep crushing
Absolutely incredible, congratulations!
Great climbing - Love your videos!
Awesome moves, thanks for showing us. Congratulations!
Dave, you're crushing it! Keep up the awesome work :D
Brilliant really enjoyed the process leading up to the send
Congratulations! Amazing dedication and grit. Your channel is so inspiring. 🙂
Your patience and dedication is inspiring. Keep up the good work!
Wow, congrats! Inspiring to watch!
thanks for videos like this! Dave your vlogs are just the best! never stop
Extremely well told, so moving ! 👏
Congratulations mate ! You are such an inspiration.
Absolute animal, that was some incredibly precise movement. Congrats!
Congratulation Dave! :) Awesome done
You’re an amazing source of inspiration.
How good is this. Great climb Dave...
So classy, so inspiring, keep up the good work Dave!
10/10 amazing job!! Love keeping up Dave, big ups from Brasil
Wow! Really well done man. You have a real dedication to the craft. Keep it up!
Absolutely superb Dave! Such an inspiration for so many people :)
Great video! And congrats on the ascent!
Just absolute butter! Excellent job, and terrific video. I've been a big fan of your books, and other media you've put out. Always high quality.
Genuinely inspiring as usual to see your process Dave. My climbing has improved quicker than ever since I got stuck into your channel a few months ago.
Dave's dedication and the way he passionately talks about his project makes this such a pleasure to watch!
Great work Dave as usual! Just shows the level of tenacity and commitment it takes to climb at such a high level
Can't get enough of your content mate.
the way your making your video's is all in all well made, the way you exsplain what you had to do in order of doing this old time project of yours congratz on the send sounds like its well deserved
Unreal. That looked so insanely hard and technical. Great job
This channel just keeps spitting out gems after gems. You, MacLeod, are a foundation of the climbing community!
Thank you for sharing this Save. Yet another one of your videos inspires and fuels me to climb hard and fall further in love with this persuit. As someone new to climbing I really enjoy your videos and they are extremely helpful and motivating. Thank you again.
Congratulations David! Love the ‘Rocky’ finish after the send (just close the stage curtains and let it speak for itself). So inspiring.
Great route, great climber, great video. :) Thumbs up!!
You are an amazing human ! So much respect ...
You make such great videos. I even felt a rush of joy when you made it to the top. Absolutely brilliant 👍🏻👍🏻🇳🇴
Love the editing, esp. the comparison between the replicas on your board with the climb, and also the no BS, no cuts, no music full ascent!
Congrats Dave! What a savage move to end the route :) Really enjoy your vlogs, the amount of likes vs dislikes speak for themselves :)
Fantastic realisation and very good your progression. I know Scotland and really like 😃👌
Wonderful, thank you Dave!
this is how a climbing video should be! Well done :)
Awesome Dave, well done. I’m glad you said you climbed better in your forties than in your thirties. This gives me hope in the face of long gaps between climbing for various reasons. My psyche isn’t one of them though. Thanks for the inspiration.
What an absolute champion. I love your focus on real rock. So few channels dedicated to outdoor climbing. Love your cinematography too. Great video
Wonderful episode. Amazing send. The dedication to your trade...task...project....journey... just amazing. Really enjoying watching your vlogs.
I think about the best out there, all cut their teeth in sunny climates and then you have managed to climb like this in Scotland!! Challenge accepted...challenge completed.
loving the music on this, awsome vid ;)
Just echoing what others have said, in that this is in the top tier of climbing vlogs, if not the best one out at the moment. Keep at it, Dave.
Route looks amazing
The sneaky bat hang! What a rest idea! So well done Dave, love this and pretty much all of your videos.
Awesome video! A redpoint or onsight video without any generous editing is the best! Keeps it relatable to the weak, human climbers like us lol! Proud send, Dave! Keep it up!
I love your blogs and videos Dave. I can feel genuine love for climbing from your creations, unlike all soulless modern sponsored media.
Brilliant! Awesome send!! Inspiring stuff!!! It would be great to see a video on how you work routes this steep and hard with rope solo gear. Like - how you get back on the rock after a fall etc. I'm familiar with rope soloing, but for working hard steep projects I seem to be missing a few tricks.
You are a never ending source of inspiration Dave, thank you! Somehow I hadn‘t considered rope soloing as an option in all these years. After watching your videos I‘m blown away by the possibilities this might offer for me!!! Literally couldn‘t sleep last night thinking about all the roupes I might be able to project on my own throughout this summer!! Psyched!!
Amazing effort!
This is just a beautiful performance to watch Dave! So inspiring! I would really appreciate if you did a Vlog (or perhaps just write back on here)on what specifically you did to lose muscle weight. I am from a bodybuilding background and although I've tuned my muscles to climbing now over the last 3+ years I am struggling to lose muscle more than losing fat...!
I really appreciate hearing the entire background of what it took for you to bag this one. It seems like with a lot of the climbing media out there, it’s just young punks (both chicks and dudes) sending stuff but that’s not me. I’m older, stiffer, and way less talented. I appreciate knowing that even for someone as accomplished as yourself, it still takes a tremendous amount of work and determination. Thanks for highlighting those traits!
'mon Dave! Brilliant video, so inspiring. Would be interesting if you could get Malcolm Smith on sometime or go into more detail about him in one of your videos. He has always been a mysterious but fascinating climber for me.
I love this vlog. Your videos are a huge inspiration for me. I started climbing about a year ago, and it has completely changed my life. Thank you for what you do.
Same here mate I’m 42 years young and stated climbing 2 years ago and I’m absolutely hooked🧗♂️💪🏻👌🏻
Very inspiring video. I especially appreciate the uncut video. In the Snapchat/Twitter era even boulder sends get sped up and chopped up, which is the most annoying thing. Seeing the whole send of Hunger allows us to see everything, even the way you rest. Thank you.
you sir are an inspiration!
Nice one Dave!
Top man Dave, you’re a legend
Congrats!!!
You absolutely smashed that. Also huge style points for the bat-hangish rest. Would love to see a collab with you and Magnus Midtbo!
YESS!!!
Congratulations!
Fantastic and inspirational
Those moves were immense !
Any plans to grow the mullet back? Great vid as always though.
After 16.638 views still no dislike ? I love that community. Congrats for achieving your goal ! Regards !
Congrats Dave! It inspires me to know that you feel stronger at 40 than you did at 30. I know im no where near 9A. But if you can do 9A at 40, i can tell myself that ill be able to get there if i just stick to it.
That was sick to see how long you worked for that just gave me chill Dave! Well done!! Whats next? 9B?
So Epic! Had Sweating hands and a racing hart watching this! Such mastery of moving on rock
I would also like to add that my previous comment was not at all intended to be any kind of disrespectful to Mr. MacLeod. Sir, your climbing and personality are a shining inspiration to the rest of us amateurs and your content is tip-top. I doff my cap to you sir and I would humbly beseech you for your opinion on the extraordinary abilities of young climbers and thank you for sharing your personal experiences on your climbing journey.
Sorry i wasn't there for the send go! Got me psyched for getting the shunt out for the Scottish sport projects though
Yep the shunt is such a killer tool for getting these thing wired. I was on it on The Force project yesterday. New methods were found!
😭 That's where my family is from. So beautiful 🥰❤
That´s how a higher level of motivation looks like - dedication. Perfect work :)
Dave can You maybe try to grade the climb from the ground, to "the rest" and then to the top? Bouldering or route grades? Thank You
Inspirational!
Your a freaking monster!!!!!!! keep it up!!!!!!!
Hi Dave, I'm super interested in how you managed to drop muscle from your legs. Did you lower your protein intake? What is a general principle to follow? All of the diet videos on youtube assume that the viewer wants to hold on to every gram of muscle, but as you know, that is not always the best for sport performance. Thanks for this video! Super inspiring!
You're such a freaking badass. That's all that needs to be said
Great video! Loved the detail on the process and your strategies. Could you explain a bit further what was your approach in terms of nutrition?
Thanks, I will follow up with more detail on that in a specific episode.
Super impressive
Nice one!
Sweet send! I appreciate seeing how much rest goes into climbing a hard route.
Do you do any regular testing of body composition with a BIA device, or do you solely rely on DEXA scans?
No I don't usually track anything at all apart from how I feel and perform. I never weigh myself or directly monitor body comp unless doing a specific experiment. This autumn was the first time I've tried to lower my weight since 2016. BIA has too much error anyway. An occasional DEXA (two in the last several years) while doing specific experiments gives me a reference of how my body looks at different compositions of lean and fat mass. This means I have a pretty good idea just by looking.
Big congratulations on your resent FA E10 and this sport 9a, I'm truly inspired! I'm really interested in whether you feel that your change of diet to include more plant based food of late has had a impact on your performance? Have you seen The Game Changers Film? Just some food for thought and it would be cool to to see your view on this subject!
Thanks. I did a very time limited (6 weeks total) near vegan but definitely not completely vegan diet for a very specific purpose, to lose excess muscle mass. So it had an impact on my performance in that context. I certainly would not recommend this an approach for sustained periods of time and the evidence is quite clear that it is not healthy unless heavily supplemented and even then far from optimal. Yes I have watched the game changers movie. I had many messages from climbers asking me what I thought of it and as I write I am editing an episode of me watching through it and addressing the main points raised in the film. Spoiler alert, it is bs from start to finish.
@@climbermacleod Brillant! It will be very interesting to hear your opinion on the compelling 'facts' in the film, that go against everything I have ever known. I did find the film a bit grey in areas, but it still had me thinking! Really looking forward to your video on this and keep up the good work! Loving the content! 👍
So sick!!