The SIMPLE Way To Get SHARP Photos in Any Situation | Landscape Photography

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  • čas přidán 21. 08. 2024
  • One of my biggest problems when I first started out in landscape photography, was coming away with sharp photos every time. I often didn't know where to focus, didn't understand whether it was a camera problem, my issue, or my settings.
    After years of trial and error, I've been able to develop a simple way to get sharp photos in any situation. A very easy process that I use on every trip, so that I don't come home, get the photos on the computer, and realize that I have a bunch of blurry photos. I also talk about hyperlocal distance, where to focus, and a cool hack I use to make sure I get everything sharp in my image.
    #landscapephotography #camerasettings
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Komentáře • 75

  • @shaddring
    @shaddring Před 2 lety +2

    You explain things so much better than 90% of the CZcamsrs out there. Well done !

  • @cameraprepper7938
    @cameraprepper7938 Před 2 lety

    I use focus magnification for focusing and app for calculating DOF (Depth Of Field), because you cannot trust focus peaking for DOF ! Some Lenses have diffraction from aperture 5.6.

  • @RT-rt9rt
    @RT-rt9rt Před 2 lety +4

    Mike, truly a great video. I often struggle with Hyper focal sharpness. This video makes it very clear for me. For that I thank you...

  • @Lelandphotography
    @Lelandphotography Před 2 lety +1

    When I want front to back in focus, I use my DOF button and manually focus on something far in the background (infinity). It will almost always work. I found it easier than using those charts. And always check the picture :).....

  • @scottman895
    @scottman895 Před 2 lety

    I never think about the 2-second timer tip! That itself can be very useful as I know the camera can sometimes shake when you go to take the photo instantaneously. I'll have to keep these other tips in mind too! Thanks for the video!

  • @markjensen663
    @markjensen663 Před 2 lety +1

    I recently left the VR on from a previous use and composed and shot a landscape scene with the camera locked down on the tripod. I realized it too late when I was doing my 2nd comp.
    Sure enough when I later viewed the images in computer the first composition was soft. The high megapixel D850 with VR on and tripod mounted is not recommended. Of course I didn’t check my focus close enough before moving on like I should have.
    And as luck would have it that would have been the shot of the day.

  • @roadshoulderphotography683

    Great video.... very good tips. I will definitely be using them.

  • @RobertSE6
    @RobertSE6 Před 2 lety

    Thanks for the video. One small thing I find useful - you can set the OK button on the Z7ii to zoom in to 100% with one press to check focus - and one more press to zoom back out

  • @stew8584
    @stew8584 Před 2 lety

    Straight forward and easy enough. Cheers.

  • @dougnelson423
    @dougnelson423 Před rokem

    Great video Mike. Thanks

  • @ddbrazeale
    @ddbrazeale Před 2 lety

    Thanks for the information. Very helpful.

  • @MSACoachMike
    @MSACoachMike Před 2 lety +3

    Interesting that your zoom lens maintains focus when zoomed in and out. Not all zoom lenses maintain focus when the focal length is adjusted. Some cameras enable you, in live view, to zoom in so that you can fine tune the focus before making the image.

    • @PereaPhotography
      @PereaPhotography  Před 2 lety

      I’ve never had a problem with maintaining focus in any of my cameras doing this method. Both dslr and mirrorless.

    • @MSACoachMike
      @MSACoachMike Před 2 lety

      My Sigma lenses change focus when I alter the focal length.

  • @roberthennessey5702
    @roberthennessey5702 Před 2 lety

    Thank you Mike , great explanation, and hands on, will watch the focus stack next .

  • @andreaspetershtc
    @andreaspetershtc Před 2 lety +2

    you forgot one point that is also often the reason for unsharp focus (even when using a tripod). That is wind which minimally shakes your camera (especially a problem when using a tele lens). That can basically just be "Solved" by using a short shutter speed (even on the tripod)

  • @RichardBO9
    @RichardBO9 Před 2 lety

    Great video. "Acceptably sharp" varies with what image sensor is in your camera. Hyper focal distance works great on my Nikon F100 film camera. I have found hyper focal distance to be absolutely useless on a 45 MP Z7ii. On the Z7ii I tend to turn the focus peaking on and overlap the focus band across the composition and stack the images.

  • @DarrenJSpoonley
    @DarrenJSpoonley Před 2 lety

    Crushed it once again Pal !!

  • @tyeeggleston6159
    @tyeeggleston6159 Před 2 lety

    Great video Mike...for me its really super important to use a tripod. Its so much easier to "focus" on subjects if i dont have to hold my camera. I do understand that there are times a tripod would not be conveinent. I really have to try that "Focus stacking"..one more thing to add to the arsenal of sharp photos. Thanks......

  • @phynx2006
    @phynx2006 Před 2 lety +1

    Great tips Mike 👍😎👍

    • @PereaPhotography
      @PereaPhotography  Před 2 lety +1

      Thanks Dave! Really appreciate it there, eh!!

    • @phynx2006
      @phynx2006 Před 2 lety

      @@PereaPhotography Real Canadian eh hahaha

  • @user-qe6dl6nb4y
    @user-qe6dl6nb4y Před 2 měsíci

    Very helpful! ❤

  • @bobsmurf1601
    @bobsmurf1601 Před 2 lety

    Mike refreshing to be learning something from a photography video as I am not picking anything up over the last year or so from other you tubers just about the latest gear and parts of the world I will never get to photograph..🤨

  • @kevinhancock761
    @kevinhancock761 Před 2 lety

    Great video Mike. I've always been hesitant to use focus stacking so I took a look at that video. Think I'll give it a go on my next trip. Really enjoying the channel 👍

  • @bobby350z
    @bobby350z Před 2 lety

    Nice video. One thing I would recommend for mirrorless cameras would be to use an electronic first curtain shutter. Dampens the vibrations big time.
    Personally I am not good at measuring distance so hyper focal distance doesn't work.
    Sometimes I try a TSE lens but they are harder to use.

  • @nightscapeimages.richard

    Really great advice as always Mike. Very well presented as well mate.

  • @UnterwegsmitBasti
    @UnterwegsmitBasti Před 2 lety

    Thanks a lot. It is exactly the informations I needed.
    Greetings from Germany.

  • @adrianalfordphotography

    Great video Mike you explained that really well. Good tips and I’m always a shocker for forgetting my shutter release cable. Thanks for sharing the video 👍🙏

  • @christian.irmler
    @christian.irmler Před 2 lety +2

    Hi Mike, a fantastic tutorial about getting sharp photos!
    On my experience, the most important point is actually to check sharpness out in the field. Just a tiny effort, but the best way to get save on sharpness :)
    Nice greetings,
    Christian

    • @PereaPhotography
      @PereaPhotography  Před 2 lety

      Something I make sure to do every time now. Always check before you leave haha. Thank you Christian!

  • @jcam783
    @jcam783 Před 2 lety +1

    Hey Mike ,another great tutorial, does the use of back button focus come into play here at all .

    • @PereaPhotography
      @PereaPhotography  Před 2 lety +1

      Yes absolutely. I didn’t cover it in this video, but it’s all I use. That’s one of the first settings I change when I get a new camera. Hmm…maybe a video topic!!

    • @jcam783
      @jcam783 Před 2 lety

      @@PereaPhotography That would be great 👍

  • @tjsinva
    @tjsinva Před 2 lety

    Good advice, as usual. 👍 🥂

  • @thomastuorto9929
    @thomastuorto9929 Před 2 lety +1

    Great info. As your intro , I didn't think you would mention focus stacking in this one. Good deal. Is there a way to get in focus from the hyper focal poit all the way to infinity without focus stacking? Just curious. Nice photo of the water/slot canyon!

    • @PereaPhotography
      @PereaPhotography  Před 2 lety +2

      It’s possible, but really it depends on the distance you are from the subjects in your image, as well as aperture and where you focus. 3 big variables there you have to consider. And thank you for watching!

  • @robroyig-robroyphotography9225

    Another great video Mike, thanks! This is something that I struggle with, and I have the Z7ii as well. It was interesting that you mentioned focusing on the mid-ground. I will give that a shot (no pun intended :-) ). For things like waterfalls, which is where I struggle sometimes, I have tried focusing 1/3 of the way in using the 24-70, and the falls end up being soft, although the foreground is sharp. And focus peaking is a bit difficult with water as most of the subject. Is there a way to get front to back without focus-stacking? And if you do have to FS, do you recommend usually 3 different shots? Thanks again!

  • @R.Hogarth
    @R.Hogarth Před 2 lety +1

    Great video, but I have a question. For those of us that wear glasses especially, do you recommend manually focusing, or using autofocus?

    • @A1P2
      @A1P2 Před 2 lety +1

      Just use view finder 😶

    • @PereaPhotography
      @PereaPhotography  Před 2 lety

      I would suggest trying both out. It’s hard for me to say which would be “better” but more of preference. It also depends on the resolution of your LCD. I honestly do a combination of AF and MF, using AF, but then zooming in and using MF… if needed. Then again, I generally don’t use the viewfinder since I’m on a tripod. So with the viewfinder, I’d say AF works best.

  • @reidnorthrup2688
    @reidnorthrup2688 Před 2 lety

    Very good video Mike. You mentioned focus stacking so of as the last resort. Why shouldn't it be used at first?

    • @PereaPhotography
      @PereaPhotography  Před 2 lety

      Thanks Reid! It isn’t a first resort because I find through experience I don’t need to use it most of the time. But it all depends on individual style and type of subject.

    • @reidnorthrup2688
      @reidnorthrup2688 Před 2 lety

      @@PereaPhotography Thanks for the quick reply. I'm not as seasoned as you, obviously, so that's probably it. Focus peaking is also helpful to me too.

  • @markwilliams1963
    @markwilliams1963 Před 2 lety

    I use hyperfocal 70-80% of the time, f10 at 10ft at 24mm, then simply walk to reframe. the only thing to remember is the nearest object need to be 5ft away

  • @Fun4me75
    @Fun4me75 Před 2 lety

    Great presentation…BTW, what kind of HD tripod and ball head are you using in this shooting … thank you 😎🌺🌈🤙🏽

    • @PereaPhotography
      @PereaPhotography  Před 2 lety +1

      Thank you! It’s the Benro 48CXL and g2 head lo profile head

  • @davidsutton7439
    @davidsutton7439 Před 2 lety

    Thanks Mike! Don’t know if you have a tilt shift lens, but instead of focus bracketing could you achieve the same thing by tilting the lens? Thus making that focal plane be at an angle? So the foreground is in focus as well as the background? Thanks again for the video!

    • @PereaPhotography
      @PereaPhotography  Před 2 lety

      Hey David! Yes that would work I would presume. One of these days I’ll have to get my hands on a tilt-shift lens and give it a go!

  • @ceezfotography
    @ceezfotography Před 2 lety

    How do you go about checking your sharpness front to back with the Z7ii when the max depth of preview is like 5.6? I assume you just take a quick test and check or do you just go straight to focus stack?

    • @PereaPhotography
      @PereaPhotography  Před 2 lety

      Yeah it’s generally just a quick check. If I’m unsure, I’ll choose a different focal point and take another exposure. I can always blend it later if needed. I’ve gotten to the point now where I’m pretty comfortable with knowing whether I need to focus stack or not, based on what focal length I’m using, and how far away I am from the nearest element I want sharp.

  • @andypigott3211
    @andypigott3211 Před 2 lety

    Mike thx for the video. For the second shot moving closer to the cactus but still more than the Hyperfocal away ie you were still focusing beyond the hyperfocal distance you did not explain why the mid ground was getting soft? any thoughts

    • @PereaPhotography
      @PereaPhotography  Před 2 lety +1

      The mid ground was soft because of where I was placing my focus point. Even though I was safely beyond that hyperfocal distance, it’s important to know that where you put the focus point is the 2nd part of that process. I always, if I’m unsure, take an exposure with my focus point on different parts of the scene, just to be safe. This is why I generally don’t use or calculate the hyperfocal distance. It’s a formula for “acceptably sharp” but there is room for error. With more and more practice/experience, you get a better feel for how the this works out in different situations. I hope that helps and doesn’t make it more complicated haha.

    • @andypigott3211
      @andypigott3211 Před 2 lety

      @@PereaPhotography thanks for sharing but have to admit still not clear .... focusing at a distance beyond the HFD may sacrifice some of the near foreground but I understood that everything beyond HF point would still be acceptably sharp. the bit I do not understand is the "where to put the focus point in 2nd part of process"... I take your point though its always best to check as small deviations of Focal Length and focus distance when trying to use Hyperfocal can make a big difference to Depth of Field

  • @chrisl1398
    @chrisl1398 Před 2 lety

    Lol. I’ve been around too long with you. I blurted out to the screen “just focus stack it!”

  • @paulgreen758
    @paulgreen758 Před 2 lety

    What if you use filters? I tend to use them most of the time to flatten water, I dont think ive ever used a 50mm at 1/100 I dont photo people more like 20 seconds to 4 minutes

  • @JordanExplores97
    @JordanExplores97 Před 2 lety

    Thanks for the great video! I actually ran into you on Saturday morning in Boulder. I didn’t know or think it was you but I noticed you had all the exact same gear and I’m kinda bummed I didn’t recognize you 😅

    • @PereaPhotography
      @PereaPhotography  Před 2 lety

      Haha nice man! It was cool meeting you. Hope it went well in the canyon. I lost my dead cat mic cover in the brush somewhere down there haha.

  • @VangelisMatosMedina
    @VangelisMatosMedina Před 2 lety

    The pain is find the correct distance on the field.

  • @jordanwheatley602
    @jordanwheatley602 Před 2 lety

    Zooming the lens to focus isn't the best tip, as some lenses aren't "par focal" meaning the focus will move as you zoom in or out, similar to focus breathing....

    • @PereaPhotography
      @PereaPhotography  Před 2 lety +1

      I’ve never had that problem when doing this with any of my dslr or mirrorless cameras, but great point. Thank you!

    • @jordanwheatley602
      @jordanwheatley602 Před 2 lety

      @@PereaPhotography yeah I’ve only had it happen with a few particle lenses like my tamron 70-200 (which I think you used to use on your 850?) I think wider lenses are more forgiving... but just something for some people to be aware of. Otherwise awesome video breaking down nailing “sharpness” and all that entails! Great explainer for those just starting or even those that need a refresher :)

    • @PereaPhotography
      @PereaPhotography  Před 2 lety +1

      @@jordanwheatley602 thanks man!! Yeah maybe it’s a 3rd party lens issue? I have another comment saying they had the same issue with a sigma lens. Maybe something to look into for sure. Thanks again and appreciate the insight!

  • @JeffStudley
    @JeffStudley Před 2 lety

    Those the Superstitions? I shoot them all the time!