Modify your own Standalone LS Wiring Harness into an LS Swap Chevy GMC OBS Truck
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
- Part 23: The Chevy OBS Project Truck needs wiring! What are your choices?: 1) Buy a new LS swap harness, 2) Send your existing harness off to someone else to modify or 3) Do the work yourself. The first 2 options are great options to have, but, they also come with a higher price tag. I chose to go with option 3.
There are a number of videos out there that cover the main points of the process. I decided to make this more general and what I did specifically for my swap into a 1991 Chevy OBS. However, the tips and things I did are applicable to most any other project vehicle. My project was specifically needing to be for 1) Drive by wire, 2) include a 1 wire sanden a/c compressor, 3) cruise control to work, 4) 3 wire temp sensor, and 5) No electric fans, but with wiring to install in the future if I change my mind.
While this process looks very intimidating, it is not so bad. Keep an eye on your overall project, but focus on smaller parts so it does not become overwhelming until you get familiar with the process. It always takes more time (at least for me) than most videos actually show. Take your time, relax, get comfortable and get a beverage. If I can do this, I promise you can do it as well. BUT before you just jump in, do your research about each part you can think of. Have some answers before you start cutting. You will need a soldering iron/gun and solder, heat gun or other way to shrink the heat shrink (always use marine heat shrink, it seals on the inside as well to keep moisture out), wire cutters, ice pick or very small screw driver for pin removal, an ohm meter is very handy to have, masking tape, sharpee, electrical tape and or cloth tape. If you get all this together before you begin, you will have fewer interruptions as you work. GOOD LUCK AND HAVE FUN!!
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Parts used for harness modifications:
1) cloth tape, various sizes of plastic wiring loom, 2 relays, 2 relay holders, a 4 fuse box, assortment of spades, some additional 12 ga and 16 ga wire, moisture resistant marine heat shrink tubing. approx $75
2) PCM reprogrammed $75
Total: ~$150.00
Running total of $$ for project Shop Truck:
Part 1 Truck total price $1,308.00
Part 2 and 3 (control arms) $230.76
Part 4 Front brake/spindle rebuild $196.93
Part 5 Cost of Donor + parts sold $265.00
Part 6 Engine parts $438.93
Part 7 oil pan issues $45.04
Part 8 oil diverter $27.01
Part 9 Truck bed removal $00.00
Part 10 Rear suspension lowering/rebuild $226.84
Part 11 LS fuel pump/hose upgrade $99.99
Part 12 Rear disk brake conversion $544.16
Part 13 Pulling engine/trans + clutch/flywheel $316.47
Part 14 Steering shaft upgrade -$17.64
Part 15 Front suspension removal + LS motor mounts $113.99
Part 16 New front suspension/steering install parts $359.02
Part 17 OBS to NBS master cylinder upgrade $99.97
Part 18 DBW modifications $0
Part 19 NBS rear sway bar install $63.91
Part 20-21 A/C install not included
Part 22 P/S, fuel, a/c hoses modified or made $180.06
Part 23 Wiring harness mods $150.00
TOTAL PROJECT $5070.84
Disclaimer: This video is intended for entertainment use only, if in doubt as to your mechanical ability, consult a professional to perform the needed work. Thank you for watching this video on the Laurenceville Garage channel, if you would like to help support this channel you can do so through the following links. Thank you! Donate - CahApp- @$Laurencevillegarage Paypal - paypal.me/LaurencevilleGarage Venmo - LaurencevilleGarage Zelle - laurencevillegarage@yahoo.com Email: laurencevillegarage@yahoo.com
#lsswap #lsobs #obs #88-98chevytruck #ls #lsx #laurencevillegarage
I’m glad that you took the initiative to simplify the harness and do your own wiring on that truck. I know that with your blue one, you mentioned that you had someone else do it for you. Wiring can indeed be intimidating but as you go through and learn it becomes easier to comprehend and then certain things will just begin to “click” your brain and you begin to realize that it is not so bad at all and that wiring can actually be kind of fun and wiring is Definitely a skill worth possessing especially in today’s “modern” world of EFI and electronically controlled everything.
Thank you for the kind words. It was a bit intimidating at first. However, after I got into it and gained confidence, I enjoyed doing it! I'll be doing my own in the future.
Getting ready to pull my old 5.7 and 4l60 out of my 98. Your video made me feel better about the process. Thank you.
Great video man, from mesquite Texas 😮💨keep it up
Awesome! Thank you!
Watching from east texas, keep up the good work
Awesome! Thank you!
Thanks man. your videos have helped me so much.
Glad to hear it!
Great Video from Fate Tx👍🏽 very informative thank you,
Glad it was helpful!
Sweet!
NICE INFO ,thank you for making the harness video.Can I ask where you got the color coded pinout sheet showing what pins stay and what pins go ? I had found one like that but it was not for my truck .Doing a 96 GMC with a 99 6.0 4l80e 4x4
Go to lt1swap.com, all the info for your engine is there. For your ‘96 I suggest going to eBay to find a electrical wiring and diagnosis manual. GM made them and are an excellent resource for your truck. Starting around ‘95, the manuals changed a bit from the previous 88-94 ones. A good one can run from $35-75. They are worth it, but if your budget is tight or you cannot find one, they are available on disc for about $30. Autozone does have several online for free. You can check one of my earlier videos for a “how to” find them. Check the “top 3questions” one first, I think it is there.
@@laurencevillegarage Thank you for the info sir ,it is appreciated
Most people I see don’t use the OBS harness at all. What’s the advantage of using both harnesses? Is it only for the gauges? I’d like to keep the stick gauges. I’m doing a similar swap 1990 k1500 manual, to 04 5.3ls
Depends on how your truck was equipped, what you are putting into it, what gauges you choose to use, etc. In your swap you may not use any of the obs wiring. I find the best way (for me) is to make everything works, THEN thin out all the unused wiring. If it all comes out, great, if not that's fine too. Do whatever way makes sense to you and you can stay organized and keep track of what is what.
did you have a picture of the pins that you removed on the red an blue ones i also am building a 90 obs chevy and am using a manual transmission curious if you remember which pins. or if youve posted the ones you removed from your build somewhere
Go to lt1swap.com. Excellent site that will show you the complete pin outs for your pcm. Will show you which ones to keep and get rid of. Take note before removing every pin to see what its function is. If running a manual trans, you can go ahead and remove the pins associated with the automatic transmission. Good luck!
New subscriber 🔥🔥🔥
Welcome!! Thanks for the sub! Hope you enjoy.
So I have racking my brain trying get this part started. I want to have a plan before I tear into it. Do you want some side work? I have a hard time with wiring. I am actually thinking of just go back to the 5.7. I am good at the mechanics side just not wiring.
Wiring can be very intimidating, its really not that bad. You can email me or use messenger on Facebook and I'll try to help out. Thanks for reaching out!
Another excellent video series is on Ucandoit2
Did you use any of the fuse box from the donor or build a new fuse box?
I did keep the original fuse box. There is more in there than just the engine relays/fuses. I had a smaller fuse/relay panel for the engine harness and a separate one for the a/c and fans.
I'm getting to put 08 Chevy van 5.3 in my 94 I have the donor but was told I'm wasting my time and because it's a gen4 do I need to get a gen 3 instead before I do anything else
Whoever told you that is very misinformed or wants to buy your van for cheap $. There are definite differences in gen 3 to gen 4. A lot of parts don’t interchange. Since you have a complete donor, you are ahead of the game. It may cost a bit more to go with gen 4, but when finished it’s probably a wash. You should do your research and get familiar what you have and come up w a plan for your project. Learn all you can about the differences so you are informed and don’t buy the wrong parts or give out poor advice. Then go for it! Have fun w your LS swapped vehicle!
@@laurencevillegarage thanks for the advice I kind figured they was trying to get my donor I've been doing research
on the 3 pin temp sensor, i thought the gauge wire was the extra one, the 1 by itself, ,
It is. On the '95 it was as well. I have not been able to run the engine long enough yet to check the temp gauge. Currently no radiator installed yet. I will let you know once all is hooked up and I can let it run for a while.
I’ve been educating myself as much as I can about swapping 88-94 I have a 91 4x4 it’s manual the only thing I’m struggling to find information on is what difference is their in swapping into a k1500 instead of c1500? Are the dirty dingo adjustable mounts going to work?
I'm sure DD has what you need, there are other companies that sell the correct mounts you need. Be sure you check they are for 4wd swaps when ordering. I have not swapped a 4wd truck yet. I don't want to lead yo in the wrong direction, but, the main items I would research for your swap are the mounts and exhaust manifolds. If you plan to modify the late model truck manifolds, it can be done, I have done several.
What's the name of the company that deleted the VATS , EVAP and rear oxygen sensors ?
For the '91, I sent my pcm to Brandon at lt1swap.com, for the '95 I sent to Chris at easyefisolutions.com. In both cases, they did a good job. But, ultimately you may need more tuning than just a vats/emission delete. I had the '95 tuned on a dyno and the '91 I had a guy come to me and we drove around while he tweaked the settings while driving. Depends on what you are after. The initial "delete" will allow you to get the engine running, but a static work bench tune is no substiture for making adjustments while the vehicle is running/driving.
Need the links 😢 can’t seem to find the correct ones
Most of those items I got off Amazon. I'm sure others would work as well, those are the ones I used. Use this link for the fuse box amzn.to/3MXwfgV, and these 2 for pins amzn.to/3X2nW7V and amzn.to/3CjFinv.
@@laurencevillegarage my bad I meant for the pin outs for the harness!
@@elguacho302 lT1swap.com
Its that a red/ blue drive by wire set up? Or the harness was originally drive by cable?🤔
Nope, it is an original drive by wire harness.
@@laurencevillegarage @ o ok, What headers u using on the white truck? Do u have room to use stock exhaust manifolds?
I am using stock manifolds. I cut and ground off all the extra material that mounted the heat shields and emissions stuff. Welded on enough pipe for the O2 sensors. They look like mid length headers. Not very hard to do. I took pictures, but didn't do a video. I'll shoot some footage and add it to an upcoming video to show what they look like. I literally only paid for paint.
What brand stand alone harness did you use?
I did not use someone else's standalone harness. The video shows how I modified the 2001 Suburban stock harness for the 5.3. So, I guess the brand is GM and I did the work.
You showed nothing on the obs harness just skipped to the ls stand-alone being in and starting…
For a standalone harness, you don't have to do anything to the old harness. It's all laying there (the stuff that was disconnected from the old engine), BUT to make it run, you only need to hook up your red constant power wire (went to terminal on firewall), fuel pump wire (also on terminal on firewall) and hook pink "key on" to a pink wire that came off of the terminal block on firewall. You don't have to "tie in" a bunch of wires to the OBS wiring to start the truck. I will cover the gauges later, my goal was to make it run. It is a lot simpler than a lot of people think to make it run. Also, each year can be just a bit different in where you go to for the battery hot and key on power.
@@laurencevillegarage gotcha I was like what the hell man lol you skipped a lot of steps! I’ve got my factory harness in my 94 stripped down. You used the ls harness to start the motor I’m using the trucks harness to crank it over.
A whole day on just the power steering cooler, man that’s not good for productivity or progress. You should really consider having a 2nd opinion standing around helping ya out
Well, thank you for the advice.