LS Turbo DIY options using stock manifolds
Vložit
- čas přidán 12. 02. 2020
- Today we're looking at what your different options are to build a turbo hotside using stock LS manifolds.
You can find me on www.thedrivewayengineer.com, or everyone on Facebook at / 887277178144274 - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Love your stuff, keep making it man. Thanks for sharing all your knowledge. P.S. I donated for first time ever on YT to your thank you button, you get us motivated to wrench
You crack me up! You keep mentioning, plenty of clearance for your A/C. And your video starts off like you just landed in Alaska after an avalanche. Great stuff. All joking aside, good info. Thank you from South Florida.
I really like the stock manifold turned forward and down. Most of the time you see them turned up. Looking forward to the rest of this series 👍
People seem to like that one, so that's the one I'll show.
I'm a man of the people
Exactly the video I needed. Thank you
Thanks!
Awesome video, thanks
I too am a " hoarder of Things". it's nice out not having to "run out" to grab a bolt or piece of ...(whatever). Keep doin the videos 👍. Also I feel blessed to be in the South and not have to dig my hoard out from under the snow😁
What's even worse is when you have to run the torch over everything before you can touch it without your hand sticking to it 😂
The coil packs are totally sexy on the valve covers ! I'll work around them !
I agree, and once everything is on, all that paint get's covered up lol
Well damn I thought they were cast iron. Thanks for the info 👍🏽
Nice :)
Thanks for the video, I bought some up and forward headers from another guy that would not work for him, and I dont see how they would work for me either, fortunately I am only in them for $60 so no biggie. With what you are showing I may be able to modify my stock truck shit to clear and have something workable and cheap as well! Thanks!
Idk how they work for anyone lol.
People out there claim they do for them though.
@@TheDrivewayEngineer not so loud, I would still like to get my money back out of em! LOL
Great video, as always! I was looking at the options for either 2 passenger or 2 driver manifolds, both down, but one turned forward. Do a turbo in the front (either steering box or AC side, whichever has more room). Run the crossover in back. Sort of a DIY turn-down Holley style, if you will. Interested to hear your thoughts, for a 70s Datsun, originally with an inline six.
That could also work, I mean, since you can weld to them, the possibilities are endless. I've seen people cut them almost down to the bare flange and build from there.
Running the truck manifolds on my 1998 gmc Sonoma they hit the frame had to mod the stock manifolds to work .
How hard was it to swap it I have a '98 s10 I want to do a 4.8 swap.
@@BattleOfBowties I drop in a 5.3 the mounts I used it drop right in had to drill and tap frame fro the mount in the frame .changed out the steering shaft with a jeep Cherokee to clear the exhaust . Notbad at all. I bought the adjustable mounts. It even cleared the heater box.
@@BattleOfBowties Will be doing updates on exhaust build soon . If you watch the trans build I have finished the turbo build . Been working in the exhaust .if you sub to my channel you can check on the other videos on truck .
Looks like the side swap would be best, and cut the flanges off far back enough the pipe can be turned up, like a fairly tight radius 90° welded on. To turn up at about 75°-80°
Something like 2.5" thicker wass pipe if possible. Either twin turbo, or run a reach around pipe and go in in the side of the 90° elbow, making a kinda Y/T fitting, a few vbands could make it easy to remove, most engine bays have a bit of room out on the sides, just in front of the engine and inner fenders. This is what I'm thinking of doing in a few projects, 88firebird formula, 68Gmc, and 96 S-truck, the GMC will have 2tons of room!
Yeah, the options are literally endless
I have some speed engineering turbo forward headers and they clear everything, factory accessories, can get to my plugs easily, no relocation needed and they were like not even $100 shipped. I do want to try a log style manifold soon though
Maybe Speed Engineering got it right finally, I've never seen a set that don't hit everything
@@TheDrivewayEngineer yeah that's what I was worried about. I was ready to do the whole fbody accessory swap but didnt have to and it's worked out for me. I've posted pics in the fb group before I think...blue firebird formula with a turbo 5.3
With truck accesories?
@@TheDrivewayEngineer yeah 100%, I have some pictures of everything on.
I can't find them now, I did find someone else showing they cleared the accesories.
For 100 bucks I might order a set and see, yours are Speed Engineering brand specifically?
You can weld cast iron with a mug welder it’ll crack out but u can do it
This doesn't crack, it's fine, thousands of people running thousands of miles, no issues.
Hey JR whats your opinion of those flexible exhaust coupling things? you know the steel braided things.
i have to chop up narrow and shorten/rebuild my stock Ypipe anyways to fit onto my modified stock manifolds and already cut off the stock cats and need 12 inch extension pieces so i was wondering if i used those flexible things, one on each side would help not break manifold bolts in future since engine tqing from side to side that little bit wont be transferrred to exhaust placing less stress on manifold bolts and hopefully not break any .?
i had 2 broke off when i bought it and got one out easy and had to use a kral type clamp on the other and i broke one off Tqing it too high from erroneou info on the internet who said 40 ft lbs, lol. that much popped off the bolt instantly. now Gm techs are telling me 22-25 ft lbs and someone else even said 11 -20 ftlbs. my tq wrench starts at 20.
Which is it? why doesnt anyone sell those bolts that come with c-clips to stop them from turning out? that way the lowest tq setting that doesnt leak could be used w/o worry of losing bolts.
Flex couplings definitely help keep stress off the manifold bolts. I've never broken a Dorman bolt though.
I've also read the manifold spec as 22 ft/lbs
Anyone try this on the older SBC?
Not gonna work, those manifolds don't weld as easily
@@TheDrivewayEngineer
Thanks for the reply.
I was looking for your injector video but can’t find it. I’ve got a bored .30 over 6.0 in my truck that came with a 4.8. I’m using stock intake and injectors and I think it’s been hurting my motor honestly. The header primaries on the driver side run hotter than the passenger side. On 93 octane cyl#1 would get up to 600*+! I have since had my tuner adjust it for 87 and it brought the temps down. Anyway I was wondering if the 33lb flex fuel injectors would be the best option and if so could I just drop them in and go no tuning?
czcams.com/video/DARkk0h_820/video.html
No you can't drop 33/lb injectors in place of 23's and go with no tuning.
When welding up a turbo hot side to prevent warping , does it need to be all bolted up to the engine and welded or can you tack it up and finish weld it on a bench ?
If you're talking about the piping, just tack it and weld it.
I usually put a flex in to deal with misalignment anyway.
Would it be possible to use a 4.8L Truck LS and have factory manifolds turned back an up? I was thinking about using the snorkel fender style intake routed to a pair or compound turbos.
They're symmetrical, you can flip them a bunch of ways
Something I've been looking into is using a ls4 rear manifold as a log for the passenger side. Anyone seen this done for a rwd application?
They all interchange, so as far as bolting it up, no problem.
I bet it tucks really tight though, could be a problem
I need ls7 log
Can cast iron be welded?
This can, I did it in the video to demonstrate
@@TheDrivewayEngineer I have the hooker cast iron manifolds and they not fitting, so I was wondering if I should try to weld or just sell
Sell them to some other sucker, they suck
@@TheDrivewayEngineer lol
I need some opinions from you and anyone that happens to read this.
Let's say you have $1000 to spend, and really want some boost in your life. I currently drive an 05 Canyon with an i5 engine (yeah its weird) runs good but not in the greatest shape.
2 option... 1.) Invest in it and add boost to what I think is the original engine with over 240,000 miles.
Or 2.) just buy a little Golf gti that comes with a factory turbo and just make it faster over time.
Unfortunately HP Tuners isn't compatible with VW and my only option for turning is what the stage 1,2 and 3 which are upwards of almost $700 and they just are what they are. No adjusting spark or VE or anything.
I'm not at all familiar with Golf's... But I will say if you're not into what you have, don't throw good money after bad, get something you like
How much boost are you planning to run with stock ring gaps?
All of it
@@TheDrivewayEngineer lol
My GT45 is tapped out around 14 psi
So 14 psi
@@TheDrivewayEngineer this gives me the ok to run all of it as well. I did check top ring on 1 piston and it was .26
Are you trying to say that 14psi from a GT45 results in a different amount of manifold pressure than 14psi from an S480?
Can someone help me how much should I be paying for a lq4 block? Then how much for one from lkq online or is it cheaper to go in a local junkyard and get a lq4?
You clearly have internet access.. I have no idea where you are, why can't you figure this out?
The Driveway Engineer because you do this and I watch your videos I wanted first hand experience
I don't know what your local yard charges...
Well how much does one go for you compete or not
Romero call your local junkyard and just ask. you’re going to want to buy the engine complete with manifolds and computer and wiring if you can
Why are you welding on your nice green tool cart, sparks burning it up. Jw
Because it's a tool cart, not a piece of art
@@TheDrivewayEngineer good answear