Guys, I love my job working with cars, finding a career that makes you happy is life changing ! If you want to work in the Automotive industry or fancy a change, speak to ASi who can help you out. asirecruitment.co.uk/contact-us/ Or email: terry@asirecruitment.co.uk
Nyalic Nyalic is the shiznit for protecting bare metal. It's not a paint, but it is a clear surface coating. The UK dealer apparently is oceanfootprint.
I Scott. You shouldn't have to press those pistons in with a press! If they don't go in by hand then there is an issue. I always soak the seals in seal conditioning fluid for 24 hours before you fit them (Brembo make it) using red rubber grease to put the pistons in would have made things easier. Just make sure those tight pistons move in and out nicely when the brakes are bled. Pump them out with no pads and check each pair of pistons come out evenly and that you can push them back in by hand.
If some went in easy and some didn't, then I have to wonder if the seals are shaped on the face that seals to the piston, it can be very hard to see the chamfer, did you check them,???
@@Mr57blackbeauty I expect the seals will be square, the chamfer will be machined into the base of the seal groove. This is what makes the seal sit at an angle so that the piston retracts very slightly when brake pressure is released.
The other side of those measurement calipers is for inside measurement. As far as the pins a machine shop could put those on a lathe and make them the proper size relatively quickly and cheaply.
Scott - I'd also check with Alfaholics. They might have some pins laying around that could help you out. Alfas of the era also used the ATE calipers (my Montreal's calipers look nearly the same as those on your BBi, though I'd guess a bit smaller if placed side-by-side).@@Ratarossa
Fellow CZcamsr ‘Delboy’s Garage’ (@moonfleet41) does some fantastic lathe work, creating one off work/ modifications for his motorbikes in uk. Maybe another opportunity for CZcamsr collaborations 😊
Hi Scott. Nice work as always mate. Just a side note. When it comes to lubing up those seals prior to installing the pistons, I was advised from a reliable source to not use brake fluid but rather a castor oil based Red Rubber grease. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and can introduce corrosion while the finished part lays in wait for the rest of the build to catch up. Also, the red rubber grease protects the seal much better and prolong its service life.
I did read about the red rubber grease and actually you might have even spotted a tub on the table. So basically what i need to do is get this finished very quickly !
Just a thought, why don't you take the longer pins to a local engineering firm and see if they can reduce them on a lathe? Great to see you back on the BBi as well!
Take care pushing pistons in like that. They should slide in, and a fair chance if not then they are catching on the seals. The piston can then guillotine a piece of the inside of the seal off (and no chance of bleeding them after that!)
@@Ratarossado you think the pistons being that hard to push in that the braking system will have enough pressure to push the pistons out to make the brakes work?
@Ratarossa The dedication to keep these older cars on the road and do it well is just phenomenal! Your Mrs is much more understanding than mine, she’d kill me working in my kitchen like that. 😆😆👍🤪
For anti corrosion you can try XCP Rust Blocker Clear Coat. Readily available in the UK. A lot of bike owners use it to protect the exposed metal parts on their bikes. It's also very easy to apply.
I have also applied a marine grade lanolin based protection to the running gear of my cars. Using a combination of spray, brush and cloth depending upon the application. These cars were made and are best driven, not squirrelled away.
Clear coat! I've gone through the same process, restoring front/rear ATE calipers on my 105 Alfa. Been two pot calipers, I didn't have the dramas you experienced, phew! I used VHT High Temp Clear on on my newly Yellow Zn plated parts. Wiped them down, hung on wires and if it's getting cool in UK, apply a bit of heat. Great vid!
The callipers look very very similar to. 2wd Sierra rs cosworth front 4 pot callipers. I Have done many cosworth ones. Just make sure the piston hasn’t pinched the seals as you pressed them inn. Fiddly job but well worth doing. Keep up the great videos.
Put clearcoat over the yellow zinc parts. It will help to keep them yellow for longer. They will fade really quickly if you don't do so. That is because a couple of years ago someone decided to ban Chrome VI / 6 which was the older plating they used. There are new alternatives that are being used but they don't even come close to the quality of older yellow zinc plating.
You should be using rubber grease for assembly and to stop the pistons from corrosion. Turn down the pins on a lathe. Split washers are usually installed under nuts, not bolt heads if there's a nut. Might be worth checking the front disc assembly order.
When I did my brakes, the seals had to be installed in the correct orientation. They had a very sleightly tapered shape. This pushes the piston clear of the disk I think.
Now, this what we're here for, Scott. Fantastic stuff and great to see you doing what you do best. Merry Christmas to you and your family and thanks sharing for your Ferrari-tastic passion. By the way, when the BBi is up and running, my offer of a cup of tea and a West Yorkshire welcome is still open to you and your lovely creation.
Happy holidays! Thanks buddy, very much appreciate the offer. A nice drive out and a cuppa. My friend is in the midlands and has just bought a Boxer so hopefully some drive outs this summer
If you clear coat zinc plate instead of gradually getting a uniform weathering you will find that the coating gets damaged in places ( stone chip etc.) and corrosion will get underneath and cause crusty flaking patches while other parts stay shiny longer. Also if you want to keep it looking nice as long as possible DO NOT go any where near those wheels with wheel cleaner will eat the plating in short order , even the ones marked PH neutral are still based on a chelating acid ( but buffered) which will still do the same thing , just takes longer so limiting exposure time is key.
The BBi (BB comes after the name of the famous actress Brigitte Bardot... very few know this) is by far my favourite project of all your Ferrari projects. Keep going!
You can preserve your zinc plating with Shark Hide. Brush it on. It is clear and will not peel. It does make things shiny if they were dull. I've used it for 10 years on my old BMW. It works on bare aluminum too.
I always pull the caliper pistons in with a G clamp, regarding the pad retaining pins just get a local engineering firm to machine them down to suit on a lathe
What I've found is pushing the pistons directly in like that, can really put stress on the rubber seal inside and in a rare case, even tear it... even with brake fluid. Had that happen to me doing some Evo 123 twin pots on my lancer project. It really is better to find a way to twist em in a circular motion and work it slowly.
Smashing project. Anti-seize needs to be wiped on the hub carriers before you tighten everything down. Also on the calipers for the backs of the pads so you can change them easily in the future. Just a thin layer-dab-on-wipe-smooth with a rag. Some of those bolts need loc-tite too. Those missing bits will turn up just as everything is finishing up-Murphy's Law.
I just had the same issue with those darned springs absolutely not wanting to stay on. Ate calipers for 1994 Mercedes SL. Factory originals were a harder rubber boot with no clip, just a snug strong fit. Luckily I found another repair kit with "hard boot". No annoying springs.
Hi Scott there's alot of mercedes use ate calipers w202 rears and w203 front brembos not sure of the sizes but I bet.some mercedes ones from one particular model will work
Owning a classic car dilemma, as someone that lives near the coast. Drive it, will actually be good to maintain the powertrain in working condition, but compromising the body panels, not only due to rust as potential damage.
Just did my brembo piston seals on my ktm, I would try some rubber grease ...works a treat won't damage the seals and makes for smoother braking for the piston to move in and out
straight forward solution to the pins problem. Bring the correct and incorrect pins to your friendly machine shop. They can reduce the size of the wrong pins on a lathe.
Put the long pins in the chuck of a pillar drill, select an appropriate speed, then use a fine square section file to reduce the shank of the pin to the required length. Finish off with fine emery cloth or abranet paper for a good finish. A bit sketchy but you could even do it by holding an ordinary household electric hand drill in a big vice.
When rebuilding brakes using red brake rubber grease, better and safer than straight brake fluid (stops corrosion behind the seals etc) and doesn’t effect the fluid/braking performance Surprised the pistons needed a press to get in, as long as they are not cock-eyed they should push in by hand… are the seals or pistons the correct size, looks like they binding and might work but would hold the pistons causing the brakes to bind on
Always use silicone grease for caliper rebuilds Scott! Expensive but saves on the blood and bruises and those pistons just slide home, providing those piston seals are oriented the correct way as they are cut in a Specific manner.
I feel your pain. Only last weekend we were doing a 'simple' job on my car that only needed some simple tools. Four hours later we were using a 60-ton hydraulic press to remove a really simple part.
The only thing I can think of to help protect everything without applying a permanent or oily coating is wax/ceramic spray. A wax coating will prevent moisture ingress while a ceramic detailer spray will apply a hydrophobic coating and allow less water to sit on surfaces. Otherwise, the only way to keep it all pristine is indoor storage and climate control.
ATE makes great lube called Bremzzylinderpaste which is brake fluid compatible and works very well as the assembly and maintenance grease. Try using it next time. You won't need to use brutal force.
Another brilliant update Scott. As ever, the amount of hard work and dedication you put into getting this project perfect shines through. However, I don't doubt that it's also a lot of work filming and editing these videos, especially since they're always so very polished. Not only is this channel the best car one out there for content, the quality of your videos is consistently excellent as well. So thank you for entertaining us all with your hard graft, knowledge and skill. It's really appreciated and we love you for it 🙂
I find it unbelievable how many have sent parts for plating or ither treatments and had the guy put them off and lose parts. I sent a bunch of rare BMW C9 parts to a nationally known plater. I photographed everything, inventoried them and tagged each with its number. After 4 weeks I called and got a recording. A week laterI called other platers in that city and they told me the shop burned up. It was a terrible loss. I persisted in calling and finally the Owner picked up. I gave him my condolences and he said he would look for my stuff. Astonishingly, my box was still in the receiving area that did not burn. He sent it back right away.
6:35 Get a flat thick piece of wood, and a brass hammer, a small one, level it off and tap it in, or just use the wood to keep the pressure up and push it in, main thing is its something softer than the metal that isnt textured or rough so you dont break it or screw up the surface
absolutely love the level of detail going into this car! but.. i was mortified to see a press being used to fit caliper pistons, they should really only be hand pressure tight, otherwise they likely wont move correctly (and could be a nightmare to remove on the next rebuild); remember that they move out under pressure but also back inwards slightly when you come off the brakes. this is achieved by the natural motion of the seal (thickness( being able to flex in and out. too tight a fit and there is no movement to be had. i can see major brake binding issues in the future for these 😬
The brake parts would have to have a heat resistant clearcoat. I guess you would need to find out max operating temperature and get a clear lacquer that wouldn’t discolour or fall off, and adhere to the plates coating. Sounds simple. Good luck Scott
Use either Dinitrol clear spray wax to protect the parts or use K2 spray on cavity wax, it is a slight gold / honey colour so doesn't show on the gold zinc pasiphated parts.
Take those longer pins to a machine shop & have them remilled to correct length & taper.. Done, screw trying to find the correct one's in the catacombs pf Pompei...
Just drive it and then when your up to have it cleaned to factory spec new, have it cleaned using DRY ICE....it will bring the undercarriage and all parts to factory new with no damage. This would have saved you a lot of money then sending off to refinish. Look into outsourcing the dry ice cleaning.
Your best protection I'd do NOT drive it in the rain. I know living in UK that is extremely difficult but it's the only way. Any protection would take away from the original look that you want. Great Job
To break a reply out into the general chat: Nyalic - distributed by oceanfootprint I believe in the UK, is an Apollo era clear-coat protectant used on spacecraft that should be just perfect to keep the luster/finish put on those fresh metal parts. It's both clear, not thick, and can withstand just about any non-exhaust level temperatures.
Finally….another ‘REAL’ Ferrari episode….sorry but i’m a 60’s sport prototype lemans fan! This is going to be the nicest on the planet..👍👍👍👍👍….well done so far! As i recall SAAB used ATE perhaps you could cross reference something.
Really enjoying this project. I agree with the many comments; there is something wrong with the seals if you need a press to get them in. They may already not be coming back out without sacrificing them. I suggest custom stainless pistons courtesy of your local machine shop. Same for the pins. I suggest a regime of maintenance using ceramic coating products for preserving your finishes. It will need updating maybe every spring, for example
Nice! I wish there was such a thing as an affordable barn find Ferrari BB here in Australia! Even a burnt out rust bucket with a missing engine would be quarter of a million here.
Greetings Scott. Next time you do calipers just brace an old pad on the pots and use a C-clamp. That’s what I’ve done for years. Never had an issue. Take care.
Protektion of the underbody is difficult but if you keep the car you can iceblast it once a year. The pins… Take the ones that are TPO long and mill them to spec.
The suspension and brakes look absolutely gorgeous Scott and I feel you when you'd like to preserve that look. There must be lots of clear coats out there for sure. Having rebuild a lot of brakes myself, most of them on motorcycles but also on cars and even ATI brakes (Alfa Romeo), I recognise the parts. Those clips won't come off, at least not in my experience but the Ferrari solution looks clean and solid. When I buy any kind of brake kit, there's always a (tomato sauces like) container with special grease to install the kit. Brake fluid won't work and will only make it harder.
that finish was on ALL ATE calipers PMB performance in utah would have had these fixed and back in a jiffy, NONE of these are Ferrari only components, ATE supplied many companies with calipers including HD and aircraft. the car makers shopped their parts bins basically back then. I have been selling ATE parts for over 25 years
machine the ferrari pins or have someone machine new ones. I know its a pain now, but gotta love the process and in the end, its worth it. its like when i go and cut a check when i did the 30k service (early) on my TR, which can be hefty, it all went away once i started the car lol I can work on all my cars and do the basics on the TR but she is one that i will take in for i just don't have the time. lol . Love the channel. (btw yes, i would go with a clear coat but that anodized should protect and wear well)
Great content Scott, but you should have used a "G" clamp to put in those caliper pistons, so you could tell exactly how much pressure you were applying! They have to be free floating to avoid binding brakes! Happy Christmas 🥂
Use a high temp clear lacquer on the suspension and brake callipers, then use Built Hambers Dynax UC clear wax spray on the suspension and under arches, chassis etc…cheap and stops corrosion
Lots of caliper build kits include a special grease to enable assembly.. The pistons should have pushed in easily once past the seal. I think you need to carefully check that the pads don't bind or stick , due to the seals not being able to retract the pistons when the pedal is released.
Another option to protect the callipers is Dinitrol Corroheat - it's an anti corrosion wax for engines that withstands high temperatures and sets quite hard , but will lose the shine and needs redoing from time to time.
Lovely work as always. If you need information or parts for classic ATE brakes be sure to reach out to PMB Performance in the US. They are specialists in old ATE restoration and will be able to help you out. As for the yellow zinc coating in order to protect it at MOST spray it with a light coating of oil but nothing more. Clear coat will fail quickly and look terrible. If the zinc was done well it can last decades. It is the exposure to salt and water that destroys the coating and so long as you wash and dry the car you will not have issues with the coating looking bad over time.
Guys, I love my job working with cars, finding a career that makes you happy is life changing !
If you want to work in the Automotive industry or fancy a change, speak to ASi who can help you out.
asirecruitment.co.uk/contact-us/
Or email: terry@asirecruitment.co.uk
Nyalic Nyalic is the shiznit for protecting bare metal. It's not a paint, but it is a clear surface coating. The UK dealer apparently is oceanfootprint.
the spring goes inside the rubber dust cover
I Scott. You shouldn't have to press those pistons in with a press! If they don't go in by hand then there is an issue. I always soak the seals in seal conditioning fluid for 24 hours before you fit them (Brembo make it) using red rubber grease to put the pistons in would have made things easier. Just make sure those tight pistons move in and out nicely when the brakes are bled. Pump them out with no pads and check each pair of pistons come out evenly and that you can push them back in by hand.
Julian is spot on
If some went in easy and some didn't, then I have to wonder if the seals are shaped on the face that seals to the piston, it can be very hard to see the chamfer, did you check them,???
Great info, that freaked me out also. Hopefully it works.
Will be really interesting to see if the brakes work correctly after they were put on the press. I would have thought no way.
@@Mr57blackbeauty I expect the seals will be square, the chamfer will be machined into the base of the seal groove. This is what makes the seal sit at an angle so that the piston retracts very slightly when brake pressure is released.
The other side of those measurement calipers is for inside measurement. As far as the pins a machine shop could put those on a lathe and make them the proper size relatively quickly and cheaply.
That was my idea, but surely there must be some pins out there available at the same size
My 1971 BMW 2002 uses those style pins , check later BMW calipers for replacement pins . @@Ratarossa
Scott - I'd also check with Alfaholics. They might have some pins laying around that could help you out. Alfas of the era also used the ATE calipers (my Montreal's calipers look nearly the same as those on your BBi, though I'd guess a bit smaller if placed side-by-side).@@Ratarossa
Fellow CZcamsr ‘Delboy’s Garage’ (@moonfleet41) does some fantastic lathe work, creating one off work/ modifications for his motorbikes in uk. Maybe another opportunity for CZcamsr collaborations 😊
Hi Scott. Nice work as always mate.
Just a side note. When it comes to lubing up those seals prior to installing the pistons, I was advised from a reliable source to not use brake fluid but rather a castor oil based Red Rubber grease. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and can introduce corrosion while the finished part lays in wait for the rest of the build to catch up.
Also, the red rubber grease protects the seal much better and prolong its service life.
I did read about the red rubber grease and actually you might have even spotted a tub on the table. So basically what i need to do is get this finished very quickly !
Totally agree, I've never found brake fluid a very good lubricant for the job.
@@Ratarossa I missed that actually. I'll have another look
Hellerine M grade is a fungistatic lubricating oil designed to dry slowly so that the components stay lubricated longer, 94% Castor Oil 6% Ethanol.
Just a thought, why don't you take the longer pins to a local engineering firm and see if they can reduce them on a lathe?
Great to see you back on the BBi as well!
Glad you typed it..His main problem is finding a local engineering firm....;D Maybe you need a little second hand lathe Scott?
Yeah a good machinist would make short work of getting those pins to the right size.
I worried about those tight pistons Scott….if you need a press to get them in, something is very wrong I’d say.
Would be worth pressure testing the calliper seals before you bolt everything up as they may have torn with the press.
Thats a brilliant suggestion !!
Take care pushing pistons in like that. They should slide in, and a fair chance if not then they are catching on the seals. The piston can then guillotine a piece of the inside of the seal off (and no chance of bleeding them after that!)
Noted
@@Ratarossado you think the pistons being that hard to push in that the braking system will have enough pressure to push the pistons out to make the brakes work?
@joeysweet9045 it will defo push them out its if they will release that's the problem!
I’m afraid the pistons scratched the cilinders when pressing in. My guess is that the coating created the fitment problem.
@@Ratarossa The inner seals maybe incorrect, like the dust caps and springs 🤷♂
Great update Scott. I like how you're showing the long process everything takes to do it correctly. Can't wait for the next update.
@Ratarossa The dedication to keep these older cars on the road and do it well is just phenomenal! Your Mrs is much more understanding than mine, she’d kill me working in my kitchen like that. 😆😆👍🤪
Ha ha ha I did think the same as i spilled brake fluid on the table !
For anti corrosion you can try XCP Rust Blocker Clear Coat. Readily available in the UK. A lot of bike owners use it to protect the exposed metal parts on their bikes. It's also very easy to apply.
I've used ACF50 on my bikes for decades, easily applied from a cloth near brakes and elsewhere. Works extremely well.
I have also applied a marine grade lanolin based protection to the running gear of my cars. Using a combination of spray, brush and cloth depending upon the application. These cars were made and are best driven, not squirrelled away.
Clear coat!
I've gone through the same process, restoring front/rear ATE calipers on my 105 Alfa. Been two pot calipers, I didn't have the dramas you experienced, phew! I used VHT High Temp Clear on on my newly Yellow Zn plated parts. Wiped them down, hung on wires and if it's getting cool in UK, apply a bit of heat. Great vid!
The callipers look very very similar to. 2wd Sierra rs cosworth front 4 pot callipers. I Have done many cosworth ones. Just make sure the piston hasn’t pinched the seals as you pressed them inn.
Fiddly job but well worth
doing.
Keep up the great videos.
Put clearcoat over the yellow zinc parts. It will help to keep them yellow for longer. They will fade really quickly if you don't do so. That is because a couple of years ago someone decided to ban Chrome VI / 6 which was the older plating they used. There are new alternatives that are being used but they don't even come close to the quality of older yellow zinc plating.
Your joy and skill bringing Ferraris back to life is infectious and makes for brilliant videos! Thank you
You should be using rubber grease for assembly and to stop the pistons from corrosion. Turn down the pins on a lathe. Split washers are usually installed under nuts, not bolt heads if there's a nut. Might be worth checking the front disc assembly order.
When I did my brakes, the seals had to be installed in the correct orientation. They had a very sleightly tapered shape. This pushes the piston clear of the disk I think.
Now, this what we're here for, Scott. Fantastic stuff and great to see you doing what you do best. Merry Christmas to you and your family and thanks sharing for your Ferrari-tastic passion. By the way, when the BBi is up and running, my offer of a cup of tea and a West Yorkshire welcome is still open to you and your lovely creation.
Happy holidays! Thanks buddy, very much appreciate the offer. A nice drive out and a cuppa. My friend is in the midlands and has just bought a Boxer so hopefully some drive outs this summer
If you clear coat zinc plate instead of gradually getting a uniform weathering you will find that the coating gets damaged in places ( stone chip etc.) and corrosion will get underneath and cause crusty flaking patches while other parts stay shiny longer. Also if you want to keep it looking nice as long as possible DO NOT go any where near those wheels with wheel cleaner will eat the plating in short order , even the ones marked PH neutral are still based on a chelating acid ( but buffered) which will still do the same thing , just takes longer so limiting exposure time is key.
I’ve been waiting for more 512BBi videos
amazing work...i can't wait to see it finished...plz go to a prestigious car show with it after u finish rebuilding it....Cheers from Cyprus...
The BBi (BB comes after the name of the famous actress Brigitte Bardot... very few know this) is by far my favourite project of all your Ferrari projects. Keep going!
Thanks buddy
You can preserve your zinc plating with Shark Hide. Brush it on. It is clear and will not peel. It does make things shiny if they were dull. I've used it for 10 years on my old BMW. It works on bare aluminum too.
I always pull the caliper pistons in with a G clamp, regarding the pad retaining pins just get a local engineering firm to machine them down to suit on a lathe
This is a good suggestion, someone else also commented with the same. i'm going to buy a bigger G Clamp to be able to do that in future
What I've found is pushing the pistons directly in like that, can really put stress on the rubber seal inside and in a rare case, even tear it... even with brake fluid. Had that happen to me doing some Evo 123 twin pots on my lancer project. It really is better to find a way to twist em in a circular motion and work it slowly.
Dude, put the pistons in the freezer and caliper halves under low heat in the oven (or outside in the sun) and they’ll slide together a lot easier.
Not much Sun in the UK ATM.
Smashing project. Anti-seize needs to be wiped on the hub carriers before you tighten everything down. Also on the calipers for the backs of the pads so you can change them easily in the future. Just a thin layer-dab-on-wipe-smooth with a rag. Some of those bolts need loc-tite too. Those missing bits will turn up just as everything is finishing up-Murphy's Law.
+1
I just had the same issue with those darned springs absolutely not wanting to stay on. Ate calipers for 1994 Mercedes SL. Factory originals were a harder rubber boot with no clip, just a snug strong fit. Luckily I found another repair kit with "hard boot". No annoying springs.
Hi Scott there's alot of mercedes use ate calipers w202 rears and w203 front brembos not sure of the sizes but I bet.some mercedes ones from one particular model will work
+1
That bbi will be worth a bomb when it’s done, great investment but sure at times u wanna take a sledge to it!
I sure do mate !
For the pad pins u could contact ebc in Northampton. I’m sure they will be able to help
You can try and put the new Ferrari pins on a lathe and mill them down to size.
OMG i've been watching the BBI build for 2 years!
I love the hands on approach.
Owning a classic car dilemma, as someone that lives near the coast. Drive it, will actually be good to maintain the powertrain in working condition, but compromising the body panels, not only due to rust as potential damage.
Even relatively new cars already show rust. Too thin modern paint jobs, as usually starts to appear near the front grille.
Oh yeah!!! This whip right here!!🔥🔥🔥🔥 I like new things, but this is an epic historic car!
Just did my brembo piston seals on my ktm, I would try some rubber grease ...works a treat won't damage the seals and makes for smoother braking for the piston to move in and out
straight forward solution to the pins problem. Bring the correct and incorrect pins to your friendly machine shop. They can reduce the size of the wrong pins on a lathe.
you know its a good day when Ratarossa uploads a video 😊🎉
Put the long pins in the chuck of a pillar drill, select an appropriate speed, then use a fine square section file to reduce the shank of the pin to the required length. Finish off with fine emery cloth or abranet paper for a good finish.
A bit sketchy but you could even do it by holding an ordinary household electric hand drill in a big vice.
When rebuilding brakes using red brake rubber grease, better and safer than straight brake fluid (stops corrosion behind the seals etc) and doesn’t effect the fluid/braking performance
Surprised the pistons needed a press to get in, as long as they are not cock-eyed they should push in by hand… are the seals or pistons the correct size, looks like they binding and might work but would hold the pistons causing the brakes to bind on
The red brake grease is literally made for the job👍.
Hope he did it all so it all last and don't dry out and so on👍
Always use silicone grease for caliper rebuilds Scott! Expensive but saves on the blood and bruises and those pistons just slide home, providing those piston seals are oriented the correct way as they are cut in a Specific manner.
Such a welcome sight seeing you upload. Great timing to take my mind off things at the moment! Love your videos as always ❤
I feel your pain. Only last weekend we were doing a 'simple' job on my car that only needed some simple tools. Four hours later we were using a 60-ton hydraulic press to remove a really simple part.
The only thing I can think of to help protect everything without applying a permanent or oily coating is wax/ceramic spray. A wax coating will prevent moisture ingress while a ceramic detailer spray will apply a hydrophobic coating and allow less water to sit on surfaces. Otherwise, the only way to keep it all pristine is indoor storage and climate control.
Why not get the shoulder length on the long pins machined back till they fit the calipers ? Thats what I would do
it is the obvious answer. I need someone with a lathe.
I've got 4 of various sizes, just a shame Iam up in the North West or I would have gladly done them 👍
Scott if you get stuck you could get the over length pins machined to fit. I know it’s a faff but maybe the solution.
ATE makes great lube called Bremzzylinderpaste which is brake fluid compatible and works very well as the assembly and maintenance grease. Try using it next time. You won't need to use brutal force.
CRC makes a clear dry film that you can spray to protect the plated or bare aluminum parts.
Clear Wax oil like Bilt hamber on the underside and Lanoguard on all the running gear would be my advice to protect it
Bigg Red would have done a nice job with these calipers. A local machine shop will be able to reduce the pin length.
Another brilliant update Scott. As ever, the amount of hard work and dedication you put into getting this project perfect shines through. However, I don't doubt that it's also a lot of work filming and editing these videos, especially since they're always so very polished. Not only is this channel the best car one out there for content, the quality of your videos is consistently excellent as well. So thank you for entertaining us all with your hard graft, knowledge and skill. It's really appreciated and we love you for it 🙂
NEW VIDEO YEAH!
I find it unbelievable how many have sent parts for plating or ither treatments and had the guy put them off and lose parts. I sent a bunch of rare BMW C9 parts to a nationally known plater. I photographed everything, inventoried them and tagged each with its number. After 4 weeks I called and got a recording. A week laterI called other platers in that city and they told me the shop burned up. It was a terrible loss. I persisted in calling and finally the Owner picked up. I gave him my condolences and he said he would look for my stuff. Astonishingly, my box was still in the receiving area that did not burn. He sent it back right away.
It's starting to look like a stunning build. My dad had a 365 bb in Rosso Red. The most pretty car ever made. Only the xj220 can come close.
Looking forward to a future video on resolving brake binding issues on the BBi 🙂
6:35 Get a flat thick piece of wood, and a brass hammer, a small one, level it off and tap it in, or just use the wood to keep the pressure up and push it in, main thing is its something softer than the metal that isnt textured or rough so you dont break it or screw up the surface
absolutely love the level of detail going into this car! but.. i was mortified to see a press being used to fit caliper pistons, they should really only be hand pressure tight, otherwise they likely wont move correctly (and could be a nightmare to remove on the next rebuild); remember that they move out under pressure but also back inwards slightly when you come off the brakes. this is achieved by the natural motion of the seal (thickness( being able to flex in and out. too tight a fit and there is no movement to be had. i can see major brake binding issues in the future for these 😬
The brake parts would have to have a heat resistant clearcoat. I guess you would need to find out max operating temperature and get a clear lacquer that wouldn’t discolour or fall off, and adhere to the plates coating. Sounds simple. Good luck Scott
I always used a huge C clamp to push in brake caliper pistons
I did think of that but dont have one big enough here
Use either Dinitrol clear spray wax to protect the parts or use K2 spray on cavity wax, it is a slight gold / honey colour so doesn't show on the gold zinc pasiphated parts.
The BBi is sweet. The F40 is going to be EPIC!!!
The correct term for that Zink finishing is "Sherardising", knowing the correct term for the process may help find more suppliers who can do the work.
Take those longer pins to a machine shop & have them remilled to correct length & taper.. Done, screw trying to find the correct one's in the catacombs pf Pompei...
Just drive it and then when your up to have it cleaned to factory spec new, have it cleaned using DRY ICE....it will bring the undercarriage and all parts to factory new with no damage. This would have saved you a lot of money then sending off to refinish. Look into outsourcing the dry ice cleaning.
Your best protection I'd do NOT drive it in the rain. I know living in UK that is extremely difficult but it's the only way. Any protection would take away from the original look that you want. Great Job
To break a reply out into the general chat: Nyalic - distributed by oceanfootprint I believe in the UK, is an Apollo era clear-coat protectant used on spacecraft that should be just perfect to keep the luster/finish put on those fresh metal parts. It's both clear, not thick, and can withstand just about any non-exhaust level temperatures.
Finally….another ‘REAL’ Ferrari episode….sorry but i’m a 60’s sport prototype lemans fan! This is going to be the nicest on the planet..👍👍👍👍👍….well done so far! As i recall SAAB used ATE perhaps you could cross reference something.
If this F40 project is happening its going to be epic! Come on Scott put us out of our misery!!!
Take your pins to any precision engineering business and ask if they can turn them down to size. Looks pretty simple for a turning job.
Really enjoying this project. I agree with the many comments; there is something wrong with the seals if you need a press to get them in. They may already not be coming back out without sacrificing them.
I suggest custom stainless pistons courtesy of your local machine shop. Same for the pins.
I suggest a regime of maintenance using ceramic coating products for preserving your finishes. It will need updating maybe every spring, for example
Put the pistons in a freezer first. Wrap them in cloths with brake fluid - that’ll stop moisture on the pistons. They’ll drop straight in
Nice! I wish there was such a thing as an affordable barn find Ferrari BB here in Australia! Even a burnt out rust bucket with a missing engine would be quarter of a million here.
Greetings Scott. Next time you do calipers just brace an old pad on the pots and use a C-clamp. That’s what I’ve done for years. Never had an issue. Take care.
Amazing he always does a spectacular job Ferrari all the way
A poor mans George Michael. Still a compliment Scott, best build on CZcams, congrats !
LOL
Protektion of the underbody is difficult but if you keep the car you can iceblast it once a year.
The pins…
Take the ones that are TPO long and mill them to spec.
Awesome!!! ACF 50 is a good way of protecting against corrosion. Designed for aircraft I believe, works well on my motorbike.
The suspension and brakes look absolutely gorgeous Scott and I feel you when you'd like to preserve that look. There must be lots of clear coats out there for sure.
Having rebuild a lot of brakes myself, most of them on motorcycles but also on cars and even ATI brakes (Alfa Romeo), I recognise the parts. Those clips won't come off, at least not in my experience but the Ferrari solution looks clean and solid. When I buy any kind of brake kit, there's always a (tomato sauces like) container with special grease to install the kit. Brake fluid won't work and will only make it harder.
that finish was on ALL ATE calipers PMB performance in utah would have had these fixed and back in a jiffy, NONE of these are Ferrari only components, ATE supplied many companies with calipers including HD and aircraft. the car makers shopped their parts bins basically back then. I have been selling ATE parts for over 25 years
machine the ferrari pins or have someone machine new ones. I know its a pain now, but gotta love the process and in the end, its worth it. its like when i go and cut a check when i did the 30k service (early) on my TR, which can be hefty, it all went away once i started the car lol I can work on all my cars and do the basics on the TR but she is one that i will take in for i just don't have the time. lol . Love the channel. (btw yes, i would go with a clear coat but that anodized should protect and wear well)
I have to do the belts on my TR as soon as i get some time
Boom
BBi is back. Well, so is Christmas. Thanx Scott. Was loosing faith. I wish you and family a beautiful X Mas and new year.
Clear coat on zinc parts never lasts in my experience. Best way to keep it tip top is regular and thorough cleaning, followed by regular coat of ACF50
Use XCP Rust blocker for the new undercarriage parts to protect them.
You could drill the caliper slightly to allow the larger pins
Those suspension arms in the zinc/gold look epic 👌
yer they did a great job on those
Great content Scott, but you should have used a "G" clamp to put in those caliper pistons, so you could tell exactly how much pressure you were applying! They have to be free floating to avoid binding brakes! Happy Christmas 🥂
Use a high temp clear lacquer on the suspension and brake callipers, then use Built Hambers Dynax UC clear wax spray on the suspension and under arches, chassis etc…cheap and stops corrosion
We use Poole technical plating when we get our E type carb components zinc plated
Ahhh yes they were also mentioned to me.
Lots of caliper build kits include a special grease to enable assembly..
The pistons should have pushed in easily once past the seal.
I think you need to carefully check that the pads don't bind or stick , due to the seals not being able to retract the pistons when the pedal is released.
Another option to protect the callipers is Dinitrol Corroheat - it's an anti corrosion wax for engines that withstands high temperatures and sets quite hard , but will lose the shine and needs redoing from time to time.
500 POUND FOR SOME RUBBERS AND RINGS?! Well that blew the budget for the entire night of fun.
ATE is still in business. You may be able to get in touch with them and see if they have the proper pins or other parts. Doubtful but you never know.
I've heard so many platers lose items which is why I've never done it, would love to though.
Ive learnt my lesson now .... I double check everything when I collect
If you cannot find the pins, get a machine shop to machine down the new front pins to suit the back calipers, easy job.. two minutes on lathe.
U r doing a awesome job on this car . Lv it
🥶🥶🥶Put the pistons in the freezer 😁 works every time 👍🏻🥶🥶🥶🥶🥶🥶
Lovely work as always. If you need information or parts for classic ATE brakes be sure to reach out to PMB Performance in the US. They are specialists in old ATE restoration and will be able to help you out. As for the yellow zinc coating in order to protect it at MOST spray it with a light coating of oil but nothing more. Clear coat will fail quickly and look terrible. If the zinc was done well it can last decades. It is the exposure to salt and water that destroys the coating and so long as you wash and dry the car you will not have issues with the coating looking bad over time.
Re: Pins get someone with a lathe to turn it down to make it shorter if it's the right diameter.