How To Choose The Correct Assembly Lube - Reduce Engine Wear During Break-in
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- čas přidán 15. 06. 2022
- Did you know that engines experience wear before they even start up for the first time? The engine assembly process requires certain parts to experience high loads at low speeds, so the chemistry of your engine assembly lube can make a difference. Certified Lubrication Specialist, Lake Speed Jr, visits the folks at Driven Racing Oil to discuss how to choose the proper engine assembly lube (hint: there's more than one) in order to reduce wear during assembly and at initial start up.
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Outstanding! I've wondered about this for 50 years. Many cam makers have their own, though it doesn't explain the interaction with whatever oil was poured in. This speaks volumes about the Driven System of lubricants.
two guys who know what are talking about, nice, thank you for the conscience generated
Thank you!
I would like to see a video on upgrades to the pistons oil ring ringland
Pa100 is magical stuff. Hard to find in consumer quantities but 100 centistokes of pure PAO is awesome.
Absolutely!
What happens to the assembly lube when priming the oiling system for the first time prior to start up? Thanks for the informative videos🏆
It gets mixed in the oil and caught in the oil filter.
@@TotalSeal i need to clarify the question... If the assembly lube gets mixed with the oil and caught in the filter during oil priming, does that give engine more or less protection for actual start-up? Thanks again💪
Not for nothing, and I know what your saying is important, but if it is so critical, why don’t you run an electro-mechanical pre-lube oil system on new engines for at least the first oil change? An accurate-sump set up with a small electric motor to build and hold oil pressure before and during engine run and after if needed be. I know the main reason is it’s a pain and costs money and you don’t want to spend it, but the benefits seem worth it to protect the engine.
I find this subject interesting, my question is I have watched numerous clips on CZcams showing factory engine assembly and i am yet to see any distinctive use of any engine assembly lube at engine factory assembly plants, for example I watched a Ferrari factory tour and the engine assembler clearly squirted engine oil onto the crankshaft bearings and into the bores and a clip of a Bentley rocker cover going on showed no grease on the camshafts, thus what are factory engine assembly plants using?
We agree that you should never put grease on the cylinder walls. A very light coating of oil is all that is needed.
In regards to the factory assembly, it is important to understand that factory built engines are started when they are completed. In that scenario, oil is good for the bearings and other components.
In the majority of shop built engines, they could sit for days or even years before being started. As such, grease is ideal for the bearings and valve train components.
@@TotalSeal Thank you for the response, interesting subject.
@@guysoceanharmonics on a side note,I always pre-lube my summer car that sits all winter.
A modified bug sprayer works great for a home brew pre-luber.
I use butter, lard or beef dripping. Works a treat
LOL
I just spit on it 🤣
You can do this on those engines that run on restaurant grease, you’ll have all kinds of dogs chasing you
This didnt teach me how to choose assembly lube, this was just a commercial for one specific brand.... misleading title.
So, buy every kind of product we have for all different applications since they're all compatible and can be used in different applications, but shouldn't be used in different applications. Got it. No confusion here. Might want to talk to your marketing dept.
Hi Guys. I'm currently building up my Mercedes engine. I have done a dummy build with a light motor oil. With main bearings installed caps torqued it spun beautifully by hand. No hint of obstruction or problems. I have double checked clearances with bore gauge and plastigauge. all within spec Today I cleaned everything up and re installed using the HVL lube. Now it is significantly harder to turn when all torqued as before. Once I get it to break away it turns like butter but I do have concerns. Now is the time to sort it. Could I have put too much HVL on the surf\aces? I was quite generous. What would you advise? I'm thinking when the rods and pistons go in the drag will only increase and I am worried.
The HVL is a great lube. The higher viscosity is the reason, but that is a good thing. Don’t worry about it.
What happened?
@@markm0000 I assembled the rotating assembly and it feels great now.
Thought i was watching QVC for a moment, is there an assembly product for diesels
*Pity that Junior's enthusiasm gives off that vibe. I run these at 0.75x to capture the info and reduce the "QVC effect"*
@@blackrifle6736 QVC effect lol, ye Lake really really likes his job and good for him i say, my earlier comment was not meant to be disparaging in any way just a bit of fun, he has some great content and sound advice backed up with real science, hey im starting to feel the QVC effect coming on id better shut up
I used to use 50% hyper lube to 50% 30 sae oil
How do you guys feel about the absolute best, most unbiased, most rigorous and thorough oil testing done by 540ratblog? And his real world educated conclusion that no break in is needed and all this talk is mostly mythology and mfgrs using zddp and other nonsense as simply scapegoats to avoid liability for poor QC and/or product material inferiority?
Thanks for the question. Unfortunately, 540ratblog's testing fails to incorporate all three stages of lubrication - Boundary, Mixed and Hydrodynamic. It also fails to incorporate the variables of material, coatings and contact geometries. In our 50 plus years of experience with real engines, his conclusions don't hold water.
@@TotalSeal 🤣🤣🤣enough said.....I see you really have a serious lack of understanding of lubrication properties in relation to protection..... and I'm pretty sure he has PLENTY of real world experience with engines.....
Do you have any FACTUAL reason for your statements that would show that any of his data is indeed incorrect? I would honestly like an answer to this question.....I have no Allegiance either way, I simply like to look at the FACTS and baee my actions on that...... so again I'll ask you to disclose any factual information that would lead me to discount any of his findings
@@freemanfornow264 As we stated in our initial reply, a single wear test (which uses a Timken tapered roller bearing against a bearing race in a pure sliding environment) does not and can not replicate all three stages of lubrication (which an engine experiences during operation). Again, the metallurgy, the contact geometry, the surface finish and the coatings on those surfaces are all variables that impact which chemistries will provide the best protection.
We honestly wish engine lubrication was as simple as his testing indicates, but it is much more complex than that because of the variables listed above. We do extensive testing with the world's leading Tribology lab (Southwest Research Institute) and even then, we have to compare those results to what we see in engine testing.
For example, the Joe Gibbs BR30 rates poorly on the 540ratblog test, but it is one of the best performing oils in engine dyno testing (in terms of piston ring break-in / ring seal).
To see what we are doing at Southwest Research, check out this video: czcams.com/video/1saWPRHdpwM/video.html
Good useful video, horrible sound!
ABSOLUTELY HORRIBLE sound.
*Hard rear wall surfaces are the problem. Production values are not a priority here.*
Lapel mics.....make your voices sound much clearer 👍
you cant see them on the shirts?
We do have lapel mics, unfortunately the room was really bad with echoes.
@@idiotburns nope....small screen on my phone
@@jonsingle1614 oh yeah, same, 1.5" wide
That’s just how Lake sounds. No mic issues
Use ATF...no mess and nothing works better.
Zinc fighting zinc what great science here.
It is true, different additives compete for the same surfaces, so the chemical balance is the key to building and maintaining a healthy anti wear film.
Redline is better
Why?
Break-in is not necessary.
We will agree to disagree on that one.
You need help