1964 Evinrude Fastwin 18hp Outboard Motor Lake Test
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
- Bought this motor at Tomahawk AOMCI meet in 2019. It was a runner as purchased but needed a tune up. After an extensive tune up and a new upper crankshaft seal and a clutch dog, it is a GREAT runner! I really like this one and it will be a regular go to motor for me. I couldn't be happier with it!
Can’t get enough of these videos! Cleansing my boredom! It was a beautiful day out today! Had a successful fishing trip.
Glad you are enjoying the videos. Great to hear you had a successful fishing trip. The weather was super here today. So happy to have been able to get to the lake. Thanks for watching!
I bought a 1966 Evinrude fastwin 18 HP motor from a friend back in 2000. It ran, however there was a fuel leak so I replaced all of the fuel lines both sets of points and threw in new plugs and had to fix the choke which was missing a piece of linkage. I actually made my own piece of linkage which works great!! I also have a 1997 Evinrude 30 HP motor that I purchased brand new and it is still hardly broken in since I favor my old 18 fastwin for boating and fishing!! Love your videos brother!! Keep EM’ coming!👍👍
I eventually want to get all the years of this style fiberglass cowl Evinrude Fastwins. These are my favorite motors to run and use. This one turned out great and it will be a go to motor for me. It's a bit scuffed up, but it runs like a new one. I really couldn't be happier with it. Thanks for watching!
Old JohnnyRude 👍👍
@@northwoodsmanbybobolink336 is this a link to old Johnny rude, I m interested in his motors.Ashton Roby
Greetings from southern Ontario Canada I really enjoyed the video you obviously enjoyed the making of the video I have a 1973 chrysler outboard 18hp and is running like it was the day after purchase an everyday user except winter
Glad you enjoyed the video. Yes, I always enjoy making them too. I have wanted an 18hp West Bend for some time now. Still looking for one. I don't think I have ever seen one that was Chrysler branded. They're great motors. Glad yours is still getting regular use. Keep 'em alive! Thanks for watching!
Dang chief, looked up this old motor I found in grandpa's shed just to find out your only a couple lakes south. Cool stuff.
These are my favorite motors. I love these 60s Fastwins. It's cool that you're close by too. Thanks for watching!
Will do, when I get this one tackled, I will be heading back to my realm.. back to the 70s 80s 90s motors, where its all routine for me.. thanks for all your advice
Martin
It's all about what you're familiar with. 50's and 60's motors are the ones that are routine for me. You're welcome amd good luck. Thanks for watching!
Runs like brand new Ben! Awesome video. Smoooooth runner for sure.
Thanks, Bill! Yes, this one is like running a brand new motor. It runs smooth and strong, no funny noises or rattles, smoth power all the way from idle to top end and 24mph in my 14 foot FD Alumacraft. I couldn't be happier with this motor. It has been used quite a lot in its life, but it still runs like a new one after a tune up. Thanks for watching!
Gotcha, sounds like its going to be hard see or for that matter find, will figure out what tool to come up with when I find it, first I'm going to hook a water hose with a adaptor up to the water tube and see if its leaking with that test first, if it test good will leave it alone,
Martin
The upper grommet is not difficult to see or to find. The small hole in the port side of the midsection about halfway up is one of the locking holes that the nubs on the grommet snap into to hold it in place. It has to be removed from below after removing the lower unit and the water tube. The water tube just pulls out of the upper grommet. Sometimes the tube comes out with the lower unit.
When I dive into it, will see if its leaking there. If so that could be the heating up problem
Martin
That is possible. I would also check for any partial blockages in the cooling passages too. Small chunks of old impellers sometimes get out of the water pump and get lodged in the passages. I have gotten various things out of cooling passages, water jackets, etc that were impeding water flow and causing motors to run hot. They're usually not a lot of fun to track down and remove. Other times something will just fall out and all is happy again. Always check the water tube first. I have seen things stuck at the upper grommet on a few different occasions.
That is a beauty, and I love that boat also
Thanks Don! I am very pleased with how this motor turned out and it will surely be a go to for a regular runner for me. I love this boat also. It is my favorite of all the boats I own or have owned so far. It is just about perfect for everything I do with my boats. Small enough to be easy to handle and launch at the shore by myself. Big enough to bring my wife and daughter along. Runs along at a decent clip even with a 5.5 if it's balanced right and will handle a 40 horse outboard with the remote controls. What's not to love? Thanks for watching!
Hey Thanks for this video on this 18. Also for letting us know what the fuel mix is. I have a 63 Evinrude 18hp which I put seals in the lower unit, water pump, etc. Guess I better not run it 50/1. They have all the boat ramps closed in Oregon at this time but I'll be out there as soon as they open them up again.
I'm glad you liked the video. I'm an advocate for sticking with the factory recommended mix ratio on these motors. 1964 was the first year for the factory to recommend 50:1 in their motors across the line other than the 3hp. That said, in the 18 hp OMCs there is no mechanical difference between the 1963 and 1964 powerheads. I still prefer to not run a drier oil mix than 40:1 in these, and normally still stay with 24:1 in anything built prior to 1964. There is, however, no sensible reason why the '63 won't safely use the same oil mix as the '64 as the 18s go. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 honestly i run 50:1 synthetic on these old motors . have been doing it for a decade now and zero issues. run nice n cool. the old oil was horrendous back then. just something to consider!
@@ct1762 On the 18s, although I don't recommend it, with fully synthetic I don't doubt you could get away with 50:1. They are fully jeweled motors and any coatings used on the pistons in the '64 and later models is likely gone anyway. The 10hp OMC motors did not get needles on the wristpins until 1961. The 50s and 60s 5.5s didn't get any needle bearings at all until 1961, and the 50s 7.5s were always plain bearing motors. Those will not live a long life on 50:1. Fully synthetic may extend it some, but I have seen a lot of these motors that fell victim to being run on 50:1 mix. I have considered all of this and I will continue to recommend the factory mix ratios for the sake of trying to keep these motors running as long as possible. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 hey thanks for the reply and explanation! I actually have never gone back farther than 61'. I have heard that about the plain bearings... maybe that's why they used 30w automotive oil for some of these haha .Take care!
Awesome!
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Didn't know there is another grommet half way up the other side, good to know, also forgot to mentioned she is also heating up, impeller kit installed with new impeller, new housing gasket, new water tube gromment, new thermostat, also pulled thermostat cover off , removed
Thermostat, stared it up, water is flowing out of the housing like it should, do you think if the plate gasket is leaking like it is, it would be causing motor to heat up? Its also flowing water good out of the rear water ports like its suppose to..
The cover plate gasket will have no effect on the temperature of the powerhead. The motor can be run without that cover in place and I just makes a little mess and is louder. It is possible that your upper grommet is not sealing well enough and it is losing enough water out of that connection to affect the temperature of the powerhead. Do you know how hot it is running? I use an infrared thermometer to check them while running to see what temperature they are getting to. The thermostat motors do run warmer than the older non-Tstat motors. Still it should be terribly hot. The powerhead may run a little above 170°f with a thermostat. If it was ever a saltwater motor or even run in sand a lot, the water jacket may become partially clogged and cause the engine to not cool properly.
Picked up a 68 in one of these, I've noticed i have water spraying out of the exhaust housing cover plate, gasket behind the plate is good, impeller is new, thermostat good, lower water tube gromment looks good, is there a upper water tube gromment that goes into the block? That could be leaking spraying down? The motor diagram is not showing one? Thanks martin
Hi Martin. Congratulations on your motor. I am assuming you are referring to the access cover over the shift rod coupling. If this is the case I would suggest checking / replacing the gasket behind that plate. I know you said the gasket is good, but if it was sealing it would not be letting water out. The upper water tube grommet is in the exhaust housing about midway up on the opposite side of the midsection from the cover plate. There is not one in the block.. the base gasket seals the water passage between the midsection and the powerhead. If the upper grommet is leaking it often ends up dripping or spraying out of the small round hole on the port side of the exhaust housing. If it was only spraying down from the top if the water tube it would be less water than is already coming down the inside of the housing by design. The cooling water dumps out of the powerhead with the exhaust and there is lost of water pouring down inside the housing. It is not uncommon for those access cover gaskets to leak if they have been reused a few times. Sometimes part of the gasket sticks to one side or the other and will leak after the cover is put back on. Any time I get these that leak I cut a new one out of gasket sheet and replace it. Thanks for watching!
In that case I'm thinking it is in that area of the housing because the tube is in 2 pieces is the gromment there to connect them together? If not what is the purpose of it being there. Its To low to connect to the block, sorry for the confusion I haven't been in the 50s 60s motors much..
Martin
The upper half of the water passage is cast into the midsection. The water connection to the powerhead is through the base gasket. There is only one piece of water tube.the grommet connects the copper tune to the passage in the aluminum housing.
Nice vídeo. That was my father’s first motor and I love the memories when we were kids. I still have the motor and I would like to bring it up to service again. Please tell me where did you find the spare parts? Thanks for sharing and keep enjoying it.
Thank you. That's great that you still have your dad's first motor. I wish I still had the 58 Johnson 35hp my dad had on his Wagemaker Wolverine when I was a kid. The parts are available through your local BRP Evinrude dealer and online. I use Marineengine.com for many of my parts needs. I bought the new clutch dog for this one on Ebay for a decent price. These are some of my favorite motors. The OMC 18s are my favorite. I enjoy running and using these second generation fiberglass cowl Evinrude Fastwins most of all. I have a soft spot for the Golden Jubilees but if I had to have one motor it would be a 61-67 Evinrude Fastwin. Thanks for watching!
I have replaced several 1974 on up 9.9 15hp water tube grommets over the years, does this motor have them or no? Not seeing any on the diagrams, looks like a shove in water tube fitting at the top, not unless the bottom of the block has a gromment I'm not seeing, sounds and looks like powerhead removed time 🤨
Martin
The upper water tube grommet is about midway up the exhaust housing toward the port side. It is not in the same place, nor is it the same style as the upper grommet in a 9.9/15. The powerhead does not need to come off to replace the upper grommet in one of these. You do need some kind of inserting tool to get them in the pocket where they fit. It is the same grommet that fits into the water pump.
Nice motor Ben, do you know what pitch prop is on that baby? She really scoots!
dale
Thanks, Dale! I believe this motor has a Michigan PJ-18 prop on it. It's a 9.5 x 11P 3-blade aluminum prop. Same specs as stock but a slightly different blade profile. That is the prop that came on the motor when I bought it. Thanks for watching!
Do you restore and sell? Or just collect? Or do you restore and service for customers? Me and my dad found an old small outboard motor that belonged to my grandfather,don’t know much at all about it or what it could be,wanted to find someone who could possibly bring life back to it
I mostly collect, but the longer I collect the more I have to sell off a few. I do occasionally work on motors for others as well. Do you know what this motor is that was your grandfather's?
Nice motor... I have the same motor on a 12 foot v hull and it won’t go over 12 mph .... it does have a battery in front but doesn’t like to get on plane ... any suggestions?
You have an 18hp Evinrude on a 12 footer and it won't go over 12mph? Is it just an open 12 foot aluminum fishing boat? If so, it is not running correctly. Either running on one cylinder or not getting enough fuel through the high speed circuit of the carb, or the throttle is not advancing completely.
Old JohnnyRude I ran it on wide open for about 30 minutes the other day and it shot off like a rocket and hit 20 right at as I ran out of fuel...then I refueled and I was cruising at 17-19... I guess the sea foam I had put in the first tank of gas helped clear a blockage
OMC was the best
I agree. Thanks for watching!
I'm trying to convert the same motor to remote control. Do you by any chance know the part number for the shifter bracket?
Which bracket are you asking about? Is it the one under the front of the lower pan? The one the cable anchor attaches to in front of the shift handle?
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 yes
@@filexshtorper846 0204809 is the number of that bracket. I currently have two of these motors with that bracket broken also.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 thank you.
@@filexshtorper846 You're welcome.
Looking to buy one of these, for sure don’t want to get ripped off lol would anyone be willing to tell me what is a high price and what is a fair price for a motor exactly the same as this one?
If it is of unknown condition and not a proven runner with the service work done, then it would be assumed a non-runner. The price for that motor would be much less than this one which has had many hours and hundreds of dollars in parts put into it. One exactly like this one with all the service work done, I would have to charge $600+ to make it worth while for me to sell one like this after servicing it. Since I do all the work myself, I'm usually not happy with it until I have been through it myself so I often by my motors cheaper in non-running condition. That way I know what I have when I'm finished with it. Thanks for watching!