BEST EXTERIOR WOOD PAINT - Could this be it?
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 10. 11. 2020
- We all like to 'try before we buy' but you can't really do that with paint, or at least you have no idea how well it will last. There are lots of things I have learnt from the original house, great joinery, quality timber, breathable materials, so why not use the same type of paint? đ€
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#exteriorwoodpaint #linseedoilpaint #traditionalpaint - Jak na to + styl
The old ones are the best,,, I should know im 72,,, Your Analogy of the job was spot on, Good Luck.
I used linseed paint on exterior woodwork 14 years ago (4 coats) and still good
Mixing turpentine linseed oil and beeswax is great for protecting metal and tool handles. Works great for furniture also.
I am removing cement board siding from an old home that I recently purchased and discovered the original linseed paint beneath - over 120 years old and boards are rock solid. I am so impresed that I am strongly considering replying linseed paint despite the high initial costs. This video has helped me confirm that this is the right thing to do.
It's incredible stuff. And they guy that makes (Mr. Brouns) is a really nice chap and incredibly helpful.
Nice job, I'll have a look into linseed based paints for the sash windows I'm building. I recently dismantled as restored my cast iron soil pipe and down pipes. I didn't try a nibbler, but I found the best way to strip any loose flaking paint was to use a twist wire cup brush on an angle grinder. Anything that the grinder couldn't get off I figured was well bonded enough to last another 100 years. This didn't leave a perfectly flat surface, but after a couple of coats of black paint you can only see the difference if you are up close and looking for it.
Great video, thanks. I was looking to use linseed oil paint on the exterior of my house, this has convinced me đ
Linseed oil paint is amazing. Started using it last year. Great on wood with tannins such as oak and cedar, coats metal beautifully, smells nice and a long working time so no problem keepng a wet edge even in hot weather. Yes it has a very long drying time but I'm happy to live with that.
I used Brouns on shed in the summer and somehow it âfeelsâ nice to use, didnât mind the faff of thinning and drying time. But I did make much more mess than usual from touching paint and then my clothes - should have used old school overalls! Already regretting the few parts where I didnât go back to bare wood. Looking forward to using it on metal canopy next year.
Hi Tim a good choice paint wise I live in a house around a hundred years old.
I used Brouns on my facias soffits and barge boards in 1978 Also the front door etc. I have just sold this house and the timber work is just fine.
Interesting, I've been focusing on replacing cement render with lime on our old stone house, then gone for Dulux weathershield on some fascia boards I've replaced. I'll definitely be using linseed oil paints in future đ
I found Beeck Stand Oil exterior wood paint to be similar. Will be trying it this year for new soffits and gable ends. Similar price but easy for me to obtain from Ty Mawr Lime in Brecon (just up the road). Many thanks for the videos, have been an avid watcher the past year since we moved into our Welsh stone cottage, a work-in-progress project!
Tim, an office today with a view, thankfully it was dry. You do a fantastic job and hopefully we wont be seeing you up near the roof for a long time to come.
The correct choice IMO. It'll last for another 100 years all being good. No way that'd be the case with a non breathable paint. I used linseed paint from the same company on my sash window. The modern paint I used on the sash I did about 5 years back is already splitting in places and trapping water beneath, that will only get worse. BTW *DON'T* throw the rags away without soaking in water or allowing the oil to evaporate safely first. It's when they're bunched up and binned that they are most likely to ignite, as the heat builds. Better to lay the rag out on something non flammable for a day or so and *then* bin. Or soak with water. ;) Great channel.
Thatâs good to hear. Well not that your previous paint failed! I went with the leave it in the rain option with the rags! đ
@@TheRestorationCouple Haha! Yep, that'll also work đ
Lovely job and great video, I hope it last another 40 years!
I have been waiting for this video. Sadolin Superdec has been my paint of choice which I have found to be very good. My place in not a modern 200 year gaff it is 480 years old. A real mishmash of stuff.
I donât have any high painted timber because I donât have any soffits or fascias
I can really see why you would want as long lasting a possible in as many places as you can. Two reasons:
1. Who likes repainting anything? Prep is 90% of the job and boring as anything (my least favourite job).
2. Painting outside is a nightmare with flies and bits everywhere đ€Ż and at height, prep and repainting makes things even harder
Really like the idea of breathing paint. Due to the drying times does not look like the way forward for painting windows.
I am looking to replace my frames which are currently softwood with accoya as a spring job. Will be expensive to buy timber for these I am going to go with Sadolin due to drying
I've used sadolin with great long lasting results but my brain moves towards the linseed paint.
Sadolin is convenient as the local shed does it but you vid makes me wish I'd researched.
It would have saved me moving to pvc as I'm sure it would have given me more confidence of longevity
Great choice, a very sympathetic finish for all quality of timber. I use a 5 layer system from Remmers Germany. That being said, you could use the perfect coatings system , but have premature structural and coatings failure due to poor design and situation of exposed elements. For example, poor substrate preparation, edges of wood chamfered and not rounded etc.
Maintenance coats are key, period buildings are testament.
Another great video, very informative. I have three massive barn doors to paint, is that paint suitable for spraying?
What brushes did you use, they looked very good?
Really helpful vid thanks
On a similar style of outdoor paint that I think is amazing.. osmo country colour. I strongly recommend it.
Very interesting...couple of patches of wet rot on the sash windows cills and I can see what you mean about trapping moisure. Wonder how tolerant the paint is of expansion? Good assuming it soaks in?
is good to know old paint still exist.
I'm not sure it helps, but I wash my paint/oil rags before throwing them away to try and prevent the self-combustion happening elsewhere, and I put them straight in a bucket of water after use. This could also be because I'm paranoid about starting a bushfire ....
Woohoo two uploads in one week
Superb Presentation
A lot more prep involved as linseed wont hide bad prep but we just painted our original Victorian timber door in a custom Ingilby linseed. Spoke to several suppliers and they were the only supplier that could match the bright colour we wanted - the chap I spoke is still working into his 80s and couldnt of been more helpful. Legend. Brouns & Co didnt even bother to reply to my emails or answer phone messages.
I totally agree with your thought process on the paint most modern paints don't last anywhere near the time stated on the tin and as you said you could see the linseed paint soaking in that has to be a good thing, I would not recommend using the air nibbler on the cast iron vent pipe it is likely to break it cast pipes can be very brittle.
I thought the same however with some fairly extensive testing on downpipes and brackets it seems gentle enough. I would not use it on guttering or thinner cast as like you say, it would likely cause issues. It may be that I just end up using abrasives though.
Sounds like the paint I used in my garden, a Swedish paint called Moose Farg. Good stuff, lasts for years and years!
Great name! đ
@@TheRestorationCouple Just a centimetre higher with a type error on the last character and that would be a better name - LOL
Thanks. As a dedicated contrarion (for better or worse) Iâm very interested in trying linseed based paints.
Very interesting video. Your point about new building products/technologies being inherently unproven in their longevity is most thought-provoking.
Presumably the difference in drying time outside compared to in the workshop is likely to be sure in part to more air movement, as well as UV light?
Yea, no doubt the autumn breeze has helped. There are several ânewerâ trends we have jumped at to only realise our mistake a few years later. Sometimes install issues but often longevity of the item itself. Perhaps a video in itself, Restoration Couple Fails! đ
Great video. I'd agree with your reasons for paint choice but didnt realise oil based was infact linseed oil and that proper old school type oil based paint still existed. đ
Neither did I to be honest. I thought linseed oil based paints were more of a new trendy natural paint but apparently not. đ
ââ@@TheRestorationCouple.... Hey there, is it possible to add a small amount of linseed oil to modern tech paints ???
Just a side note, an old bloke back in the late 1970s told a story from an earlier time about a bloke who, while chatting would peel of a paint flake and sort chew while chatting.... He died of lead poisoning.... ???
Don't forget my linseed Question !!!
@@broderickwallis25if you mean latex paint, then no, because latex paint is water based. The two wonât mix and itâll be weird.
Awesome video and work! How does that paint seem to be holding up? After 2 years do you see any wear?
I have a TON of cedar siding to protect and Im trying to decide what to do.
I think you made a great choice there. Did you ever consider a Sikkens stain system?
Great , hopefully I can move forward with the fascia board , however the weather is against me , anyway you mentioned the primer , so what did you use and is this also linseed oil based
The âprimerâ is just the thinner down coat as I described. The only primer I will be using is red oxide on the bare cast iron.
IIRC, Uula linseed oil paints come ready mixed.
Glad you mentioned linseed oil rags, but don't just throw them away, hang them to let them dry before disposal, or set them on fire in a safe place.
Linseed oil is tried and tested, just look at cricket bats
I think it's always best to dilute the first coat, many modern paints seem to expect you to use them neat.
It smells just like youâre oiling a cricket bat. đ
Hi, have you looked at cleaning your brushes and paint rollers, I found a system that fits into my drill and uses centrifugal force to remove the paint from your brushes and rollers and leave the as clean as when you bought them. I saw the advert and though if only, anyway I tried it and have not disposed of a brush or roller since. It is called the âDandy pro paint brush cleaner and paint roller cleanerâ and is on sale today for ÂŁ21:00, which is less than I paid for mine over 25 years ago. If you put the name as per the ââ you will find it. Love your channel and videos, I await your segment every week.
Looks interesting! Perhaps Iâll test one out. đ
The best part of linseseed oil paint, is how easy it is to maintain/refresh - for the most part it is a question of giving it a bit of boiled linsessed oil every 3-4 years. The paint slowly deteriorates, over time, not crack and flake of in large chunks as would oil- or waterbased paint. I never has to do a full cleaning and/or scrape down using linseseed paint. just add paint or oil ever so often.
I'm doing soffits and fascias which have previously been painted almost inevitably with modern gloss paint. I'll give it a thorough sanding but the sanded modern gloss paint will remain as the base. Is there any point in using Brouns linseed oil paint?
wee tip for your cast pipes build a big fire and throw all your cast on ,comes out like new ,fantastic job you have done on roof
Unless itâs still attached to the wall. đ
Would it be okay to paint gate with masonry paint? After primer
Great stuff! So our grandads werenât so far off the mark in wood preservation after all!
I think they knew their stuff!
We've been tricked into modern technology....
Hide the past masters of experience !!!
Osmo do an oil based exterior wood finish - country colour high solid. Has plant oils: sunflower, soya and thistle rather than linseed. Seems like a good alternative which may be slightly better value?
The wood finishing bible, but more focused on internal than external finishes - still good on external: Understanding Wood Finishing: How to Select and Apply the Right Finish Paperback by Bob Flexner. It was cheap on Amazon ($10 for Kindle) but Amazon has hiked the price a lot. Enter it into Camel Camel, then you'll know when it goes down in price again.
Another consideration is that back in the day the objective was to create the best solution but today there will be a marketing imp in the process saying how can we design this so it seems to last well but actually deteriorates quickly so that they have to buy it again and again and again. Just saying
100% spot on. It's all about ripping 'sheeple' off.
As people rarely use good old fashioned tradesmen who would take the time and effort to use these paints that are better suited to this type of application, the marketers favour diyers who basically want a job done asap and as cheap as possible. Plus there are tradesmen out there using these products and they cater for people who have the same aspirations as diyers but don't want to get their hands dirty. Can't say that I blame them, after all, time is money and it's a person's free choice which way they wish to go. The reasons given here for going a more traditional route are solid.
Iâm sorry if I missed it but what primer did you use on the wood?
He described a recipe of 50% paint, 35% raw linseed oil, and 15% turpentine. I've also seen suggestions w/o turpentine, in 50/50 and 30/70 paint/oil ratios.
I love linseed oil paint and have fully invested in using it where applicable. Some advise that I didnât catch you saying is to paint extremely thin apart from the first soaking layer. It looked like you did just that but itâs important as it can form a dry film with wet paint under that takes long to dry. And a correction - it does not dry from UV but from oxidation. Faster in dry weather and faster outside due to wind, heat from sun etc.
UV is an important aspect as it has positive and negative effects. It will over time break down the oil which is why it needs to be renewed every now and then with more oil. This is when the pigments start to chalk when you touch the paint. But in environments with no sunlight (uv) - a bathroom for example - the oil will yellow over time and change to a perhaps indesirable colour with previously white paint.
Use only natural fibre brushes.
Itâs an extremely runny paint that easily goes everywhere so wear stuff you can spare losing and invest in linseed soap which will dissolve the paint from brushes, remove stains from surfaces and clean your hands.
It adheres to everything Iâve tried with good results except some modern sheet metal goods that have a thin silicone film.
Another very informative video, thanks. A few professional wood workers turned me on to Osmo, which Iâve seen you use. It seems their natural oil wood stain is also based on linseed and others. Iâm tempted to use that for my soffits next spring as the current modern paint is flaking nicely. Did you think to use Osmo instead? If so any reason against it?
Did you give any thought to Bedec paints?
No but I have used their primer before for metal and worked well.
Sikkens rubbol Xd high gloss with there primer is what we use on a lot of period properties around my area. Hands down the best system Iâve seen, lasts extremely well.
Have you tried oil based sikkens satura?
Iâve been maintaining a Victorian property for 21yrs and found the best exterior paint was Leyland primer/undercoat 2 coats and Sandtex oil based gloss. Deluxe was rubbish. Oh, and SX lead sheet sealant was great for sealing gaps in masonry; gone back after 7yrs and like new. I go back every seven years and thatâs from my experience. Of course, the materials in these paints change over the years so those paints may be a different quality now,for better or worse. Cheers.
Iâd be very careful with needle gun on old cast you might find it will crack it with constant hard short shocks of needles rattling all over it If you can get a small hand held sand blasting gun
Looking amazing, fantastic job on the roof you must be proud! Linseed paint sounds nice, looks like it goes on well. 50 quid mind!
ÂŁ120! That said, Iâve used just over half a tin so far and almost done.
@@TheRestorationCouple please tell me thatâs for 5 lt?
@@boomish69 about ÂŁ320 for 5litre then you have to buy raw linseed oil and turpentine which is around ÂŁ80 for both say ÂŁ400 all in and you to buy linseed putty for filling to make a good job with it
Any chance of a follow up on this?
Do you need a special primer or is it the thinned down linseed paint?
Thinned with oil and turpentine.
Absolutely looks like the right decision - there are two key factors when designing building elements: 1st: try and stop water getting in, 2nd: allow any water that does get in, to get back out. So many modern methods and practices completely ignore the second - cement renders, tanking basements, etc. etc. etc. with ultimately unsurprising results (damp, mould, rot etc.).
As for the price - that sounds like Osmo Oil. A tin costs about 5 times as much as normal varnish, but it goes 10 times further.
Random thought, but what about tucking a small time capsule in the roof somewhere (under a ridge tile if you haven't fitted them yet?) with todays date for some roofer to find in 120years time?
Too true, you really do need to think like water when building! Both liquid and vapour form. Good idea. We hid a broken old iPad under the ground floors just to amuse someone in years to come! đ
@@TheRestorationCouple Iâd be cautious of leaving an iPad under the floorboards? Iâm certainly no expert but wonât the battery degrade over time? My first iPhone went in a cupboard when I upgraded and I uncovered it a few years later and the thing was bulging out where the battery was swelling. No idea if there is a real danger but surely not worth the risk?
@@matthewsaunby9056 that sir is a very valid point! Lithium batteries are so volatile they can self combust with no apparent reason, yes granted on very rare occasions but a valid point non the less đđŒ
The lead in white lead paints was not a 'fungicidal or something' but was the pigment itself. It was basic lead carbonate and was one of the finest pigments in history and cannot be replaced by a modern white zinc oxide or titanium dioxide pigment. It absorbed more linseed oil or other alkyd vehicle than any other pigment did or does today. It functions in some ways like an insoluble soap. It protected the wood like no other in that it not only resisted rot by its resistance to acidic conditions which are needed for rot to occur, but it slowly chalked away over time so that it did not peel, or crack, and formed a tough film. Modern whites do not do this. Zinc white for instance is well known since 1890 to cause hard embrittlement in the paint film. This also causes poor adhesion and peeling. It is also known for poor opacity. Titanium white on the other hand is notorious for excessively soft paint film with poor weathering properties, but good opacity. Typically a compromised blend of titanium dioxide with a smaller addition of zinc oxide is used to improve hardness. That's assuming the paint company is even aware of this.
So upto two years ago I would of agreed with the Sadolin Superdec option. We painted the new workshop with it as I believed it was the best option. The whole this is wood, bit like a summer house. On the tin it says 10 years we are having to do it every year because as you say it sits on top of the wood so where there are some spilts in the wood it starts to peel and flake. Very disappointed in Sadolin and its not like its cheap. Wish I had of known about the linseed paint then đȘ
Sometimes the drive to newer tech is to make a thing more consistent or more convenient to use - that drying time would put most people off! Or they can give it a longer shelf life, or make production more scalable - there are reasons why the smaller tin of the old-fashioned product is more expensive, and it might be that even if there is demand, it's harder or costlier to make or there is more wastage. So the newer tech can have genuine advantages that, in a particular situation, might still not be the most important consideration to you.
One thing to consider is Linseed oil paints are likely to discolour/yellow quickly if not in the sun, especially now there is no lead in it. So donât use it inside..
Welcome to the new Brouns and Co sales representative.
đ Iâm sure there are other brands of linseed paint out there. Donât mind passing on experiences though, both wins and fails. đ
@@TheRestorationCouple Only joshing with you enjoying the whole renovation.đđŹđ§đŠđș
I'm in the US, and have bought AllbÀck and Ottosson brands from US distributors. The latter has a wider color range, but they are both distinctly "Swedish", to my eye. Seems like Broun's colors are weighted a bit towards a more "English" palette, and would suit my projects better as I am in New England, but their paint cost to me is at least 25% higher, not counting the more-costly international shipping.
Oh, and I love this style of paint, and embrace it no matter what the color!
Don't forget to paint the end grain, most important, put on a good layer as it will suck up the paint...
đđđđ
What is the colour of the paint ??
7044
Thanks, love the vids
Phill Rose looks like bone colour
I used Sadolin Classic on my shed, it soaked it, oil based and cheaper than this too....
Lead in paint keeps the color from fading an is a good rust inhibiter . No more lead an oil base paints are just about gone her in the United States. We use resin base latex acrylic paint now. I get about 12 years out of a paint job with thies paints with little to none fading from the uvs
Superdec is good on weathered wood old facia/ soffits - I use it all time but only for old weathered wood and they say saw you coming if you paid that much for it (5L)
What you should have used is Sikkens Rubbol Satura plus - Itâs the only paint I use for my elite clients.
And yes you are using this video to justify the amount of money you spent đâïžđ
Just checked invoice, it was ÂŁ70 for 5l custom mixed. I bought some primer too which is what bumped it up. It does seem to work well and like you suggest, Iâll be using it over some of the older bits we have around the front of the house and outbuildings, etc. Will take a look at the Sikkens. đ
My perspective is, when you're looking for a product that will last 50+ years, no problem, and keep the wood in sound shape - a ÂŁ10-20 price difference becomes totally inconsequential.
It makes one wonder how the home builder over 100 years ago could afford such a paint.
It was the only type of paint I imagine.
Linseed paint isn't great anymore performs the best still in protecting the timber but its so prone to mould growth these days with the lead being replaced with zinc its no way near affective enough for mould and algae protection
Hi, donât get me wrong I am all for the old school paint, but I have to take one point that you made and correct it. I live in the UK and have a caravan in Helmsley forest, a beautiful part of the country. But some of the farmers around here have big signposts up but they are not advertising anything, they are made up of lots of bits of wood painted all different colours and left out in the most open parts of the moor. The reason they are there is to test the paints adhering to the wood and the ability to protect the wood, some of these have been out for fifty years, you may say that isnât one hundred years but it is a long time and the paint is not sowing any sign of degradation or pealing and it is only fifty years because the people who put them there only had the idea fifty years ago.
Sounds good, whatâs the paint? I was referring more to new paints and âformulasâ that come out each year rather than established types. Just the fact they say they give 6 or 10 years of protection on the tin doesnât actually give much confidence, especially at roof level.
@@TheRestorationCouple all I know is it was Dulux that put them there as there is a little plaque on the bottom of the board, I found it because I wondered what the hell it was up on the tops and my curiosity got the better of me.
You English and your Latin: in situ. My Canadian wife uses it too. I thought she was just being uppity, but nope. As a loud and overly friendly American simply say "in place." But go ahead and be elegant and charming. I truly love the variation of our language. Carry on.
Hello, how are you? I hope you are well. My name is Jamal and I live in Morocco. I have more than eight years of experience. I work in the field of wood paints and wood dyeing. If you have a job opportunity, I am looking for it. I wish you a happy day.
HaHa ... the Restoration Salesman [now]. I'll take two and if you could deliver in the morning My Man that would be great đđđ ... Great video about convincing yourself but though. đ
HAHAHAHA! â I thought the pant was expensiveâŠ.. then you realise its its own primer and undercoat, brushes donât need cleaning just dumping in linseed oil, and once you load the brush it goes on and on for miles and miles!!!! And all with no chemicals!
I only use linseed oil paint in my restoration jobs! Best there is also ingilby do a nice range too
The really expensive linseed oil paint
Buy once cry once. đ
Put your rags in a sealed jar, rather than just in a bin. They can still self combust in the bin.
Or leave it in the rain, there is plenty of that around! đ
I just burn them. Much more fun!
I suppose it depends on the draft and if they are compressed. Just passing on the advice my father gave me, who was a master carpenter.
You can also just hang or spread them out as a single surface until dry...
Red lead paint â used on old horse carts and dreys â these old things lasted for years â donât think it can be got anymore â health and safety đ
i think you can still order lead paints but only in the trade i would imagine and regulated.
Not to keen on superdeck it's ok on new wood any old wood that's had oil used on it avoid any water base paints sikkens do a good oil base paints but I will be looking into linseed now interesting
Used superdek last week on some new outdoor trim and a door. Like you say itâs not as good for old timber but goes on well. Definitely more of a plastic film than one that penetrates the wood though.
I would have used sikkens
The linseed paint should last 50 years the new paint is made to last a few years only.
We were told the rags combusted when I was a furniture making student...as naughty students do we wanted to test this theory and... they never ever combusted... I think itâs a bit of a myth BUT itâs good to play on the safe side đ
@@Bzz22 I didnât say the actual physics of the phenomenon is a myth.. just the fact it will easily self combust . Only this week I had a dripping wet rag with linseed oil on it.. I forgot to put it safely outside and nothing happened... but like I said.. best to play safe đ
@@tonyhussey3610 i suspect when the combustion has occurred it is more of a workshop situation with a pile of oily rags in a corner. and as long as one is a bit more careful, oily rags are not as likely to ignite on their own.
lead based paint was the best........but they ruined that
Bored with hedge-funds?
Straight out of the can ,you are no painter, very bad practice
He did explain why he's painting straight from the can.