Really appreciate the positive vibes! Had another sesh the week after I filmed and even though the cave was condensed with sea humidity I managed to link the hand flip move I was trying with the pad stack at the end of this video. Can't wait to give it another go soon!
Ha I knew someone would call me out on this 😅!! I actually live closer to rock than a gym meaning I can climb outside fairly often...but I still have to find free moments here and there in between life commitments. So that was my logic behind the title. Hope you liked the vid 👏
Just a random take from the couch, but I think you could be dropping the undercling on the handswap because you aren't extended enough through the hips and ankles. Since the undercling is pretty high it doesn't look like you can engage very well so maybe if it was lower you could engage better. Either way, great video and I hope you keep making progress!
Thanks for such an insightful comment Michael! I hadn't thought of it this way 👏 The undercling Sharma uses in his uncut broke off and is completely unusable, so that's out. Dave MacLeod found a nice sequence but he gets all the way out to the last good hold maintaining the good left toe hook which I don't think is physically possible for me at 5'6". Dave does grab a much lower undercling like you mention though...maybe worth trying! Then there's the Nacho Sanchez beta which is essentially what is working atm. Nacho grabs an even higher undercling which I have no clue how it's possible...but Nacho is off the charts with his crimp strength and also probably has +10-15cm of wingspan over me! I think I've give a go at one of the lower underclings next session and see what happens 💪
Muy bueno Álex. Joe, qué ganas de recuperar el dedo e ir a darle contigo... Aunque espero que lo hayas hecho antes. Por cierto, buen level de inglés bichito 😜
Thanks for chiming in Christopher! A few other folks made a similar comment. When I made the vid, my thought process was around how I am able to dedicate about the same amount of time into climbing as many folks who hold down a 9-5. Climbing is and always will be a passion that I do in my free time 🙂
Yea, at 25ish moves it's def a power endurance testpiece. I've heard a few climbers call the lower section 8B/8B+. The transition moves there in the middle are pretty chill but you're still in an overhang so they can zap strength. Then you have that one big red point crux move, jugs (in an overhang), and the finish boulder! The one thing I have pretty clear at this point is that Nacho Sanchez's beta is wayyyy crimpier, and seemingly harder, than the tall dudes
Thanks for the comment! By weekend warrior I was referring to the fact that I hold down a gig and am not able to travel around full time to climb. I've been based out of Spain since 2015 and many folks are at that level only going outdoors on Saturdays and Sundays, so that was my reference. When I made the video, I totally forget how other countries and even my friends in the USA would view a weekend warrior 😬🙄
Great one! 🤟 Best moment @11:16 🤗🥰 Venga Alex que lo haces!! 💪
Motivation atopeeeeee! 🔝...Estamos medio reyendo porque no era capaz de decir 'La piedra filosofal' in English 🤣
This was awesome! Looking forward to seeing more
Really appreciate the positive vibes! Had another sesh the week after I filmed and even though the cave was condensed with sea humidity I managed to link the hand flip move I was trying with the pad stack at the end of this video. Can't wait to give it another go soon!
@@AlexTighe Sick! Sounds like it's coming together nicely
An 8B+ climber is definitely not a regular one 😂
Ha I knew someone would call me out on this 😅!! I actually live closer to rock than a gym meaning I can climb outside fairly often...but I still have to find free moments here and there in between life commitments. So that was my logic behind the title. Hope you liked the vid 👏
@@AlexTighe yepp nice video - but calling yourself a "average weekend climber" is a bit too much click bait for me!
@@christophhaupt7827 Appreciate the feedback! And the encouragement to make a similar vid! Cheers from Spain
Just a random take from the couch, but I think you could be dropping the undercling on the handswap because you aren't extended enough through the hips and ankles. Since the undercling is pretty high it doesn't look like you can engage very well so maybe if it was lower you could engage better. Either way, great video and I hope you keep making progress!
Thanks for such an insightful comment Michael! I hadn't thought of it this way 👏
The undercling Sharma uses in his uncut broke off and is completely unusable, so that's out. Dave MacLeod found a nice sequence but he gets all the way out to the last good hold maintaining the good left toe hook which I don't think is physically possible for me at 5'6". Dave does grab a much lower undercling like you mention though...maybe worth trying! Then there's the Nacho Sanchez beta which is essentially what is working atm. Nacho grabs an even higher undercling which I have no clue how it's possible...but Nacho is off the charts with his crimp strength and also probably has +10-15cm of wingspan over me! I think I've give a go at one of the lower underclings next session and see what happens 💪
Muy bueno Álex. Joe, qué ganas de recuperar el dedo e ir a darle contigo... Aunque espero que lo hayas hecho antes. Por cierto, buen level de inglés bichito 😜
Cuando lo tengas bien, ya veras como comes la parte de abajo como una merienda usando la secuencia del dinamico largo!!! A ver en el otono jejeje 😏
V13 is not "weekend warrior" level-climbing.
Thanks for chiming in Christopher! A few other folks made a similar comment.
When I made the vid, my thought process was around how I am able to dedicate about the same amount of time into climbing as many folks who hold down a 9-5. Climbing is and always will be a passion that I do in my free time 🙂
So hard bit (V11), to feet first move, into rest and V7 to finish? Sounds legit hard!
Yea, at 25ish moves it's def a power endurance testpiece.
I've heard a few climbers call the lower section 8B/8B+. The transition moves there in the middle are pretty chill but you're still in an overhang so they can zap strength. Then you have that one big red point crux move, jugs (in an overhang), and the finish boulder!
The one thing I have pretty clear at this point is that Nacho Sanchez's beta is wayyyy crimpier, and seemingly harder, than the tall dudes
“Weekend warrior” next few sentences climbed v13. what is this sport?!!
Thanks for the comment! By weekend warrior I was referring to the fact that I hold down a gig and am not able to travel around full time to climb. I've been based out of Spain since 2015 and many folks are at that level only going outdoors on Saturdays and Sundays, so that was my reference. When I made the video, I totally forget how other countries and even my friends in the USA would view a weekend warrior 😬🙄