One Way To Deal With GM's Oil Burning AFM Junk
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- čas přidán 2. 07. 2024
- Anyone who has owned a GM with the infamous "AFM" or "active fuel management engine" knows how big of a fumble the government bailed out automaker made coming up with this mess. From lifters that break to cams that get wiped out to the 5qts of oil they will burn between changes, there is no end to the list of problems these engine have. Here in the PRNY (Peoples Republic Of NY) or anywhere in the rust belt the only thing that wears out faster than the AFM engines in these GMT900 series trucks is the frame. On a quiet night around here you can listen to the frame rotting away. So with that being said customers in these parts rarely want to fix these oil guzzlers when they come in with one of the AFM cylinders sucking so much oil it fouls out a spark plug and causes a misfire with a flashing engine light. So in this video I show you a common practice around our shop to keep these junkers going while they are waiting for the frame to rot away. Oh and don't take my word for it that the AFM engines are a disaster, just Google "Problems with AFM engines" and pull up a chair.
-Enjoy!
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Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
2013 was the first year for the 5.3 L GEN V engine, I was part of a team who started production in 2012 for the piston's. It was a whole new design much more complicated than the previous generation which was a flat top with cast valve pockets. When I purchased my new Silverado near the end of 2012 I had the option of getting the 2013 with the GEN V. I told the salesman no way in hell, I'm working on that project and were still learning how to produce a good part. They've moved all that piston production now to Mexico and the quality standards are even more open. Just for your information!!!
I was told the Chevy 6.2L engines are indestructible. I actually have a 11 Ford 6.2L F150 and looking for something new, the salesman told me Chevy 6.2L is absolutely bulletproof. I think they are American Made.
My in-laws have a 2018 5.3 with AFM. Are they up sh*t's creek when the truck has 100k miles?
Gen V engines only came in the new 2014 body style trucks which were available from spring of 2013. 07-13 trucks all have gen 4 engines.
@@kennygee2715Yup we have a 16 and 18 5.3 both have been junk. 16 has had everything repaired on it.
It is why I’m happy with my 4.8L V8 in the 07 Tahoe don’t think I’m going to be purchasing a new vehicle
I love your comment in the description: "On a quiet night around here you can listen to the frame rotting away." Way to go Mr. O. Happy days.
That’s a very old saying that on a quiet hot summer night you can hear a Ford rusting away.
Wasn't that on a Chevy Vega?
@@crlaw75 Ah the Vega. One of the great cars in US history. LOL Check the gas and fill the oil.
That saying goes here in Minnesota too!
"Rust never sleeps"
I have a 2003 Silverado with the big 5.3 with 220,000 miles. That version (pre AFM) is just stellar. The engine has never been apart and burns no oil. I use Mobil synthetic oil and change the plugs every two years for smog inspection. It just seems like everything is getting worse and worse. The prices don't come down though. Every manufacturer has embraced the idea of extracting as much money as possible from the customer and giving them as little as possible in return. No wonder we're up to our armpits in garbage.
Ive owned a 2000 silverado with the five three (my five key is broken) with 290 k since it was new. Best engine Ive ever had in a vehicle. I changed the oil pump and timing set as a preventative measure last year. I was bored. Still has perfect oil pressure. Uses about a quart between changes. Same as when new. Texas truck so its worth the effort.
I have a 2003 that has 430,000 miles on it and still runs as good as new!
NICE!@@nightbasser73
That’s awesome!! I’ll keep driving the 87 F150, and 97 GMC 350 engine!!
That 5.3 , pretty close to the ole 327 Chevy.
I don't know why, but it gives me great satisfaction to know that at the time of posting this comment, 108,000 of us have watched a video of Mr. O changing one single spark plug.
No matter the manufacturer, AFM engines suck.
Run some marvel mystery oil half bottle Thur the tank every 3 months it works clean plugs .and converter
These. 5.3 and related GM v8's were absolutely amazing until the AFM and VVT were added to it. The goal to reduce emissions ruined a good engine.
I agree Bobby,these government regulations for these car companies have forced them to ruin a lot of good engines, have a great day sir
I have an 06 GMT800 Suburban with a 5.3 with 312k miles on the original untouched motor. Always used synthetic, still runs like a top. I get “only” 18ish mpg on the open road where I’ve had newer rental Tahoes get up to 24mpg, but factor in the cost of replacing a cam/lifters on these newer AFM motors….
@@gtemnykhyou'd up that mpg if you had your intake gaskets done. They all leak, it murders the fuel mileage first before the cold start misfires. Make sure you get the metal/silicone fel pro updated gasket.
@@bobby9195 But you realize reducing carbon, nox and voc emissions are a neccessary thing yes? So maybe manufacturers should actually dessign good engines within the new regulatroy restraints. But instead they're bolting on stuff to decades old engine designs and calling 150k miles runtime "expected lifetime". Other mfrs are able to do it, maybe it's time to swap brands.
@@bobby9195by design to push electric
Simple, honest and down to earth advice. Why we tune in here, Eric!
Thanks for being a stand up guy!
Eric the car guy
Eric I do cars
Eric South Main Auto
If his name is Eric, better than average chance he's a good mechanic.
Boomer emoji - 👍
I had a 2013 Silverado with a 5.3. Had to add a quart between oil changes. It met its maker at 106,000 miles. Rest in pieces to the only new vehicle I've ever owned.
This is one of the places you shine...where people who don't know engines, you give good advice as to spend there money WISELY, so they don't throw there money away on a piece of junk !!!
No matter what manufacturer, I believe that we have the E.P.A., C.A.R.B. and C.A.F.E. standards to thank for most of these issues.
Not a bad idea just as per tradition with chevy.
Stop placing blame on regulatory bodies that didn't manufacture the garbage. You sound like an idiot siding with multi-billion dollar corporations that don't care about you. They only care how cheaply they can produce something that will last just long enough for warranty to run out. They do this within the confines of regs that only matter when the vehicle is brand new. If you want to play the blame game, blame the bean counters and engineers at GM.
Nobody held a gun to GM's head and made them use a system like this to meet their fuel economy targets - especially not one this badly engineered. That's a copout. Same as how none of the Big 3 can design a VVT system that doesn't grenade regularly when the Asian manufacturers have no real issues with it.
@@RobertHancock1 Asian manufactures DO indeed have many of the same issues with their systems.
Good point. Manufacturers make mistakes but they are also under pressure, short timetables and unrealistic demands from government. The result is a lot of hidden indirect taxes consumers are forced to pay.
That camera cut was imperceptible. That is pure skill. 😊❤
Well, almost imperceptible. You perceived it, and so did most everyone else.
I live in a southern state and can’t afford to replace a $60,000 truck every 5-10 years, so I bit the bullet and proactively replaced the cam/lifters/pushrods and totally deleted the AFM. My 2016 GMC Sierra runs amazingly well and doesn’t burn oil. I have a stock AFM cam and associated sitting under my work bench if anyone wants it. 😂
Wonder how many people were thinking "Oh, poor Mrs. O., she has to walk all the way to the post office! (which is across the street...) 🤣
Just want to say thanks for another informative vid. Watch a lot of car mechanic channels and yours is no doubt the "gold standard" especially when you're tracking down electrical problems. Keep up the good work! Thanks again.
Wow, I thought only the Chrysler hemi ate lifters.
I would also add that 10k miles between oil changes is wrong. Factories are using a thick wire tightly wound to be the center of the oil ring. Instead of the square wave oil spring for the oil ring. They suck and plug up causing high oil consumption. Change the oil at 5k max.
I love that you don't have long production intros on your videos. Straight to the point. Love it.
Eric I’ve got a 2012 and disabled the afm when I purchased no oil burning no lifter rattle over 200000 thousand miles still going strong
Seems to me causing them to burn more oil negates the low emissions intent of using less fuel.
actually, YES !
It's a huge blunder, for sure.
Exactly what happened the first time around in the 70s where emissions got cut 20% but fuel economy 30%.
It would be interesting to know what percentage of our problems were created by the government trying to solve our problems.
The governments fuel economy standards based on the size of the vehicle killed the small truck because they couldn't make the mandated fuel mileage figures. So, everyone was forced into buying big trucks that get 17mpg instead of a small truck that got 30mpg. Really dumb.
I have a 2013 Silverado with the big 5.3. It's got 224k on the ticker, has had one tune-up over the years, burns a little more than a quart between computer recommended oil changes - what GM engine doesn't? It runs great, haven't had any AFM issues, knock on wood.
so far i'm one of the lucky ones. I live in ontario (salt/cold) and i have a 2013 sierra with 150K and *knocks on wood* have no oil burning so far, no engine issues and oil level stays the same between oil changes. But i have been very faithful with the oil/filter changes at 5000kms (not miles). other than wheel bearings, frickin door handles breaking (inside and out) and grounding straps rotting, no issues yet. But I know they are coming! I watched Eric O do it several times so I did my own front wheel bearing just yesterday!
I have also been lucky. I live in Wisconsin and I have a 2011 Yukon with 220K on it. So far I have not had any issues. I also do not use GMs "oil life monitor" in the computer. I generally change oil at 3000 to 4000 miles (about 50% oil life according to my oil life monitor). I've had more trouble with the transmission.
This is why anecdotal evidence is useless.
Great description as is the video. Much appreciated putting these out Dr O.
Another solution is stop driving it like a grandma, I’ve owned 5.3’s and haven’t had this issue, but you do have to push the go pedal all the way to the floor occasionally. 😎
They call that the italian tune up. I do that to my 02 5.3 with 290,000 and hp tune myself to 6000rmps makes a bit of white smoke occasionally.
The drivers valve cover with the PCV breather in it causes a lot of oil burning too. There's an updated cover to correct it. Less than $100 from the dealer.
Did this on my dad's 11 suburban, hasn't had a problem since
Can confirm this is a thing. Good call. It's so common that the updated Delco part for the valve cover is easy to get.
I bought a used 2015 1500 V-6 work truck. 89000 miles and lighty used. Redid all the the grounding connections and added a DOD disabler and bypassed the ATF thermostat, replaced the muffler with straight pipe, and disabled the flapper valve in the exhaust.
Both my sons are driving 2009 5.3 Tahoes without disablers. Rust is not an issue in Texas but the 100+ days are our cross to bear.
Thank you for the video, great channel!
The truth is out there although less painful to have it delivered in a short video! Thanks Eric.
As always as a retired mechanic enjoy your honesty and relevance in the repair service industry . Keep up the good work 🇺🇸🇺🇸
Still love your no BS answers on this channel. Keep up the good work.
Eric!!! You make my day, sir. I'm always looking forward to your videos. Thank you for all you do. I live in NYS, just wish I lived around the neighborhoods where your shop is at.
God bless you and your family.
Honda had the same issue with their VCM (Variable cylinder management). Often when the system fails, the fuel injectors gets stuck open and ends up dumping raw fuel into the cylinders. It washes away the oil film and now you have metal on metal contact.
What years ?
@@dougowens2686 2003 Honda Inspire
2004+ Honda Elysion V6
2005-2007 Honda Accord Hybrid (JNA1)
2005-10 Honda Odyssey (USDM) - EX-L and Touring Models only (J35A7) - 2005-2007 models are equipped with VCM-1 (3- and 6-cylinder operation) - 2008-2010 models are equipped with VCM-2 (3-, 4-, and 6-cylinder operation).
2011+ Honda Odyssey (USDM) - 2011-2017 models are equipped with VCM-2 (3-, 4-, and 6-cylinder operation) - 2018+ models are equipped with VCM-3 (3- and 6-cylinder operation).
2006-2008 Honda Pilot 2WD Models only (J35Z1) - VCM-1 (3- and 6-cylinder operation)
2008-2017 Honda Accord V6 (except EX-L V6 6MT Coupe) - 2008-2012 models are equipped with VCM-2 (3-, 4-, and 6-cylinder operation) - 2013-2017 models are equipped with VCM-3 (3- and 6-cylinder operation).[2]
2009+ Honda Pilot (all models) - 2009-2015 models are equipped with VCM-2 (3-, 4-, and 6-cylinder operation) - 2016+ models are equipped with VCM-3 (3- and 6-cylinder operation).
2010-2014 Acura TSX (V6)
2013 Acura RDX V6
2013 Acura RLX - VCM-3 (3- and 6-cylinder operation)
2014 Acura MDX - VCM-3 (3- and 6-cylinder operation)
2015 Acura RLX Sport Hybrid - VCM-3 (3- and 6-cylinder operation)
2016-2020 Acura TLX V6
2017 Honda Ridgeline
Not necessarily. I’ve had no issues with my 3.5 Honda with cylinder deactivation. Changed spark plugs at 100k and yes, a bit fouled on the cylinders that deactivated. But never a check engine light or performance problem. 200k now
@@dougowens2686 Like Eric said; Google is your friend. The VCM effects also snowball from fouled spark plugs to the ignition coils and Catalytic converters all failing prematurely . Even the motor mounts get trashed due to jerking around every time cyclinders are shutting off and on. Easier to just delete the VCM and save yourself the headache.
I de-VCM'd (or "muzzled") our 2007 Odyssey EXL at 159K miles when we bought it. It's at 230K now and going strong, and the oil consumption has decreased significantly since we first owned it. The other issue with VCM is thermal shock - the spark plugs would rapidly heat and cool as the back 3 cylinders were turned on and off, and it would cause the center electrode ceramic insulator to crack and fail. It's a great idea on paper . . .
I have a 2013 5.3 in a Suburban. At 150k I purchased an AFM delete from Range. I'm at 190k now using less oil and have lost only .5 gpm. Money well spent for me based on apparent results.
SMA is a favorite channel of mine for auto repair and tool advice!
Same with me 100k doesn't burn oil
I have a 2007 silverado New Body Style, 5.3 put in the Range afm @ 185,000 miles. I now have 218,000. I learned of the lifter issues that these engines have when it had 185,000 miles. I change oil at 3,000 miles 5 quarts of pennzoil, 1 quart of Lucas oil stabilizer. Does not use oil anymore! This has literally been the most dependable, reliable, vehicle I've ever owned. Only replaced a wheel bearing, alternator, oil pan gasket. Still runs like new. I'm not brand loyal, I also own a 1996 f150 4x4 supercab.
Local shop recommended a new engine on neighbor's truck. We watched this video and fixed it in ten minutes. I even had a spare plug laying around. No cost. Thanks.
Video just came out lol
Wow! That was quick!
😂😂😂 🙄
My son put in a Range AFM delete and solved his oil burning problem. 2013 Silverado. So far so good!
Good, practical advice is always welcome. Thanks, Mr. O.
Common fix here too! I've run into some issues with people throwing in cheaper platinum plugs. They don't seem to like that.
We had an 07 YukonXL, drove it for 220k miles. Great vehicle. Started to consume oil at 40k miles at a rate of 1 quart per 2k miles, never more never less. As long as we stayed on top of the oil level she ran great. Changed the spark plugs at 100k and 200k and never fouled a single one. Only other issues we had, 1 alternator at 190k miles and front end bushings at 200k miles. That was it.
Same here. I got 400k out of a 6.0 and 370 on a 4.3 .
Best motors until AFM 2012 .
I remember having a lot of customers back then, that "upgraded" from a GMT800 to a GMT900 in 2007, and sorely regretted it.
The more complicated you make an engine, the more things can and will go wrong. I bought a 91 Nissan Sentra with 96,000 miles on it. My wife and I put another 300,000 miles on it and if it used more than half a quart of oil in 5000 miles, I knew to look for a leak. We had 5 leaks in the 23 years we drove it. 1 valve cover gasket, 1 oil pressure sensor, and 3 front crankshaft seals. The crankshaft seals would last a little over 100,000 miles and were easily replaced. The car got parked because it needed about $4000 worth of maintenance and was Blue Book valued at $1500. It needed major AC work, struts all around, and a paint job. It's hard to convince your wife to put that much money into a 28 year old car, no matter how good it runs.
@@danielbutler578 Cool story, they were great simple cars 4 sure.
@@jameslovitt994 Most people I knew had good luck with them until they introduced the 6 speeds and then all hell broke loose. Outside of adding oil I seem to remember them being pretty reliable.
On my 2007 Avalanche with the 5.3, I was burning a ton of oil (a quart every 800 miles or so) and smoking like crazy at startup. I was also changing the #1 spark plug often. I replaced the drivers side valve cover with one with an updated pvc system. That took care of my problem. I did a video on it.
Same thing happened with my friend's old 08 Silverado. We changed out that valve cover and added the splash shield to the AFM bypass valve in the oil pan when we replaced his leaky oil pan gasket. It stopped burning oil after that.
I did an oil catch can, and turned arm off at 24,000. 180,000 miles and my engine has never burnt a plug or needed a lifter replaced. 2009 avalanche. I did a tune up at 100k with new gm wires and plugs.
I just did the same thing. 08 sierra started smoking on start up. I changed the valve cover with the updated one. No more smoke.
@@KrazyGoodModsyour friend’s 08…do know about how many miles were on it when you added the splash shield?
2010 and also changed my driver-side valve cover. It seems to have helped a bit but I also got one of the electronic AFM delete modules at the same time so who knows which made the biggest difference.
Just wanted to say thank you for all your videos! It is really helping me with my 04 trailblazer. Just got done watching the good old parasitic draw video. We can leadn a lot by watching you
Thanks eric another informative and easy one for you to hand over to us, also nice to see your beloved Mrs O looking so well.
Keep Safe Keep Strong 🦘🦘🦘🦘💖💖💖💖
Seamless editing when pausing to torque that plug. Very impressive
I love your honesty about the active fuel management engine. The knowledge you possess is invaluable, and the reason why I watch your channel religiously. Thanks again for your great videos.
Honesty?
Glad to hear someone call it like it is. Great job! Ed H.
Another solid & real world fix. Thanks for another great video.
I solved my GM problems, stopped buying them four years ago!! Great video!
Try in the 80s😅
So, what brand of problems you got now?
@jimlong2469 Since you asked, today Mazda hands down, Zoom, Zoom. Hanada were amazingly reliable till recent years. Don't get me started with today's overpriced and over engineered German garbage 😒
2021 ICE and a new 2023 EV No problems with either! Neither is made by GM! @@jimlong2469
I’ve got a 2012 Tahoe with the 5.3. I’ve been fortunate as it never started burning oil. A few years and 40k miles ago it started throwing a 0304 about every 2 - 3 weeks of daily driving. After eliminating the obvious suspects, I believed a valve may be sticking coming out of AFM. I installed a AFM delete and haven’t had a problem since. Just replaced the plugs for the 2nd time. Still holding my breath though. Thanks for sharing all that knowledge Eric.
Thanks for the knowledge as always!
Thanks for the video Eric. Always helpful information.
Eric, I have a 2015 with 116,000 miles on it. Runs like brand new. The key is the frequency of the oil change. I do not push it past 4000 miles and I did this since it was brand new. The recommendation of the mileage for the oil changes is what kills this motor 7500 miles is way too much.
I change mine every 90 days or 3000 miles, old school
I change my 2011 5.3liter oil when the ECU says OIL LIFE ZERO warning comes on. I use mobil one..i burn oil, i have seen misfires counted on a scan tool. Runs smooth enuf for me 91,000 miles
@@pootthatbak2578I change my oil at ECU oil life at about 45-50%,
I’ve got a 2010 gmc with over 230,000. 5,000 mile oil change with full synthetic. Burns average a quart between oil changes. Nothing done to the engine except disabling afm in the ecu and plugs and wires every 100,000.
There's a huge difference between a highway driver changing oil at 5k than a stop and go city driver doing the same. Engine hours would be more than doubled.
Good video and great advice. I've been keeping vehicles with tired engines on life support for years using the new spark plug method. Companies like JC Whitney used to sell those non-foulers that would extend the mileage of the spark plugs in oil burning cylinders.
I remember. As I recall they were called firing cups and retarded oil fouling of plugs in worn engines. Haven't seen any for years and wonder if you can still get them.
Very informative Eric!
On Hondas it's called VCM (Variable Cylinder Mgmt)... when we cure it we call it 'muzzled'. A 'muzzler' (120$) is a module that plugs into one of the temperature sensors and fools the engine into thinking it's not quite warmed up... it's not the one that the dash reads, so that sensor still works. I do the cheap-out method and leave my gas cap slightly unscrewed... after a while the engine light comes on and the system won't go into ECO mode. One week before I get a state inspection I screw the gas cap on tight... after a few drive cycles the light goes out (if nothing else is wrong!). I got lucky and bought a beater 2008 Odyssey with a decent engine... turns out the harder you push 'em the less of a problem it is (you spend less time in ECO mode). The engine tear-down guy (I Do Cars) has a tear-down of a cratered Honda V6... the deposits between the rings etc are way ugly. If you buy the lower trim (LX) you don't get VCM, so you may be lucky there. You'd think they'd alternate the cylinders that get shut down... maybe the new ones do that, I don't know. The reason that makers went to this is the government requirement for at least some of their fleet to meet higher mileage specs.
This is where I want more consumer protection from the manufacturers dumping this junk on their customers. This represents failure in GMs testing of this engine, or they knew about it knew it would get past the warranty period and they just didn’t care what happened after that.
This is good to know. Older Chevy 5.7 5.3, 4.3 were kinda bullet proof if maintained.
Very well put Eric the truth of the matter is always good to be expressed and to let people know of issues. Not very well engineered. Just think if buildings had bad flaws that would compromise the structures
Great information and very well explained !!!
My son has a 2007 with AFM he bought it used it has 170 K but he has a plug-in deactivator. This has kept him free from troubles . He doesnt baby it either but kerps up good maintenance.
SMA..thanks for all the GREAT content! You’ve helped me out greatly on multiple weekend repairs. MUCH APPRECIATED! That said…I own a 2013 5.3 with the beloved AFM. She’s got the intermittent P0300 (code is 300 not 301 but my fancy scan tool shows 90% of misfire in cylinder 1). I looked and looked for a collapsed lifer video but I was unable to find one on SMA channel. I found the misfire videos…those are great too…just wanted to see how SMA approaches a collapsed AFM lifter, VLOM testing, inspecting cam lobe etc… This video pretty much clears it up why no lifter repair content. If you ever have a customer that wants to spend $5k on a truck worth half that to rebuild a 5.3 with oil burning, lifter and misfire issues…I’ll be one of the first to watch and learn. Be well, stay healthy and continued success to you and the First Lady of SMA!
On #1 cylinder lifter issue ticking/sticking/collapse?? Pull coils packs and valve cover on driver side. Then take good quality cleaner, like brake cleaner (full strength not the less toxic formula) and with small red straw spray the small lifter hole top of lifter with engine not running, and clean lifter several good shots of cleaner. Let it sit. Repeat couple time every 10mins. Replace valve cover and coil packs etc. Drop in a good engine flush (like Liqui Moly Proline) .. Change oil n filter to Mobile1 20k Extended... I fixed one of 5.3 with a stuck lifter 5 yrs ago. Worked for me. 😎👍
If the lifter has rotated as some do? Then there is no fix other than pull the heads and replacement of lifters and cam if it has damage too as they sometimes do
A quick fix by Dr O another satisfied customer well done sir….
Great information Eric thank you..
I have a 2011 GMC with the same engine. At around 90K, I added one of those AFM delete dongles. Big improvement in drivability since its not going back and forth from 4 to 8 cylinders at lower speeds.
Change oil every 3k with synthetic. I dont go by the dash indicator. Luckily it doesn't use a drop of oil and runs great at 150K miles currently. Also no real noticeable difference in fuel mileage. Guess I'm one of the lucky ones.
Same and I'm at 215K.(knock on wood!)
I used a diablo tuner to delete AFM.
One of my family friends has a 2010ish yukon xl with close to 300k and they have just changed the oil. Idk what they did that made it last so long.
Same 2011 GMC 5.3 but I only have 55k on it and change the oil when the life indicator gets low which has been ever 6-8k on average. Never burned oil, knock wood, but Eric’s words will be ringing in my ears.
No way in hell would I wait that long. No matter what it is or what kind of oil. Never go over 3000 miles. Oil doesnt last as long as they say it does. It breaks down. FyI@@trebnev
I had oil burning on my 07 Silverado 5.3 and 08 Silverado 5.3. Installed the new updates valve cover and bought a afm disabler and that took care of the oil burning and spark plug fouling.
Love your attitude towards repairing vehicles. You have more common sense than most people. Fyi Worked as a equipment repair manager at a large contractor. In the controls world , when you switch the ground side its called sinking. Switching the power side is called sourcing. Keep the repairs coming
I think it's great on how look at all options and find what's best for the customers. Most garages will put thousands of dollars in parts in junk cars that won't last. Hat's off to you keep up the great work and I'll keep watching all videos!
Great Video Eric O. I know it sounds crazy, but I use a can of Engine Restorer when I change the oil on these. I will seal up those rings and slow the oil burning way down. I don't normally believe in weird additives but I have seen it working in quite a few of them. And I don't even have to do it every time I change the oil just once a year or so.
Learned my lesson years ago.
Had a Silverado with a misfire and found a bent lifter. replaced all the AFM lifters but didnt replace the VLOM and all was good. 2 weeks later it came back with ANOTHER bent pushrod.
Thanks for the AFM heads-up!
Thanks for keeping it real.
I am a really old mechanic, still doing it part time but I am old enough to remember working at a cadillac dealer in the 1980s, if you remember the cadillac v8 6 4 then you are as old as me, they did not work well at all, it was an easy fix as they had electric solenoids on the rocker arms just pull the valve covers, put rockers and pivots on all 8 cylinders then you had a good running 368 cid v8, the chevy trucks and the 5.7 hemis are just as bad, but not as easy to fix, I did a 5.7 hemi a few months ago, it is a big deal
8-6-4, oh yes I remember them. I worked at a large independent shop in the 80s/90s. I could spot that emblem from a distance. I would warn the service manager NOT to take the car in for drivability problems, which of course he always did. The engine bays always locked like a wiring explosion and most had salvage yard engines from who knows what year or make car. I was glad when they finally went away.
yes Larry, they were not fun to drive, when they went to 4 cyl mode, they would shake the dashboard, it was just hard when they were still under warranty to tell someone that there is nothing you can do, but it was easy to just make it a v8, just put rockers and pivots on all 8 cylinders, thank you for the comment at least I know I am not the last old mechanic on earth
@@larryberry2436
The nightmares return!
It fails because nobody has done it right. That should sound familiar. Anyone remember Oldsmobile converting a gas engine to diesel? What could possibly go wrong with that?
I was a senior in high school when Cadillac came out with that atrocity. About once a week I would see a new Cadillac on fire that year.
2014-2018 years I feel are even worse then this generation. All we do at the dealer every single day is work on 14-18 Silverados. So sick of that generation every single part breaks on them.
You always have good advice
See, this is the great thing about a knowledgeable and *honest* mechanic -- they find ways to keep the customer's vehicle going without spending thousands of dollars. Mechanics like Eric O are worth their weight in gold!!
Happened and continues to happen to me, 2012 Suburban. Everything you stated is 100% correct 👍
Change the valve covers, the pcv section becomes plugged causing oil consumption. Pull the plugs on the problem cylinders and inject about a oz of berrymans B12 chemtool on top of the piston and let it sit over night. Berrymans will break down the varnish on the oil control rings freeing them if repeatedly done. you can use it as a induction service as well but it takes several treatments either way to start breaking it loose.
I have a 2009 5.3L Silverado, bought the truck with 155k. Knew about the AFM issues with this body style and engines mines the LC9 . I’ve changed the oil about every 5k miles and even did some preventative maintenance including: updated valve cover, oil pressure relief valve with deflector shield ( that helps with oil consumption) oil pan gasket, pickup tube oring, spark plugs and wires. Truck now has 211k on it and still running strong.
2009 had afm?
mine '09 did also@@boondock6055
@@boondock6055yes
Thanks for this cost saving fix.
Good thorough mechanic.
After plug change, buy the Range AFM disabler and use Royal Purple synthetic with a quality oil filter (Wix) Change oil and filter every three to four thousand miles
As recommended by a British car specialist, I put Royal Purple 15w-40 diesel oil in my '53 Rolls-Royce. Two and a half gallons of it. She's thanking me for it in her own way.
Great info! When will these car manufacturers learn? They need to watch your videos! Which reminds me, I need to order some Fluid Film… 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for the warning,
Doing a quick search didn’t reveal much but you completely described what my 07 Pacifica with the big 4.0 was doing. It finally died at 230k.. RIP!
I worked with a guy that bought a brand new chevy with the same engine with afm. The cylinders that shut off were still filling up with unburned fuel , he took it back to the dealership several times. The warranty covered everything
Wife had a Honda with one of those POS AFM... I used to "rotate" the plugs once a month, or so, giving each cylinder two squirts of BG44K from a spray bottle... she got the car with 80k, at 262k it spun a bearing and went to our version of Wilbert's.
I have a 2012 Yukon (5.3L) w/ 208k miles. It has always lived in Kentucky, has been garage kept all its life, and has no rust at all (barely even any on the frame surface despite some occasional overlanding/camping trips) so I hope to keep her going for many years to come. Fortunately it has been driven exclusively with the Range OBD2 AFM disabler since it came out several years ago and doesn't burn oil at all. I do make sure to change the oil religiously every 3k miles & use full synthetic. I recognize the lifters could still fail (probably will at some point) but with over 200k miles in more than a decade on the road already, she's been a remarkably reliable vehicle for a very long time. When the lifters finally crap out I plan on having it rebuilt with AFM completely deleted. It's a truly great SUV.
I love your videos! I am a honda dealer technician and we stay putting in piston rings due to oil consumption issues.
Way before AFM , as an apprentice, my ‘68 Olds 88 with 455 rocket would foul a plug. Never really let it get to the point of a mis-fire but when I couldn’t beat my buddy in his 440 Charger I knew it was time. One plug was cheaper then pulling heads for valve guides and who knows what else you might find in there
The first car I bought was a '69 Charger R/T 440 with 4 speed manual (got it used from my boss)
A spark plug change is pretty basic, but you covered it with some good knowledge. I would like to hear you go over the "updates" to resolve the oil usage on the Gen IV instead. I am familiar with some, but there is a signal to noise ratio problem on the ol' internet.
I wish you were my mechanic, awesome channel, thank you Sir
Thanks for the information. I had no idea about those engines. I'm not a chevy guy. But I'll steer clear of the junk.
I had a 2007 tahoe with same engine. I changed oil every 3500 miles. It would burn a quart of oil about every 3500 miles. On the dash it would have an indicator when it would be in v4 or v8 mode. Not sure why but around 100k miles, it would never switch to v4 mode any longer. Sold it with 175k miles and it still ran decent.
I thought you were going to say that you would snap the throttle every time you saw it go into break something mode, lol
This is why Eric is my favorite. Sensible, realistic approach.
I have a 2006 Honda Odyssey with the Vtec VCM V6. Now at 300,000 miles. At 200,000 miles I was burning a quart of oil every 1000 miles. ECO light in at 70mph on the interstate, go up a little hill, ECO light would turn off, engine now running on 6 cylinders again and huge cloud of blue out the exhaust. It was awful. I installed a VCM muzzler device which tricks the ECM so it does not go into ECO mode. The last 100,000 miles I literally use no oil in between changes. I have always changed my oil and filter at 3500 miles since new. Don’t know how long it will last, but I definitely have gotten my money out of this van. Great video. I hate the AFM on the GM trucks.
Good advice, thanks!
This has been a known problem for long time. However , the other side of the coin is when customers accelerate the issue by being lazy with maintenance. For whatever reason ,some people seem to have an aversion to getting oil changes done on time. I’ve had customers say to me “ it’s only 1000 km over”. And admitting that they do this on a regular basis. Very frustrating to listen to that nonsense and then hearing the surprise when the engine eats itself, not just GM engines, any engines. Anyway, Great video as always Eric !!
My son has A 2014 GMC Sierra 150,000 miles engine still runs fine. I change the oil with 30% left on OLM. Use Pennzoil Platinum Ultra 0W-20 That is about 4,000 mile oil change.
@@robertslegers257 that’s awesome , I actually have a 2014 Yukon XL, I change the oil every 4000 km, never had an issue in the 7 years I’ve owned it. Only reason I mentioned maintenance is because I see it on a daily basis. Good for you keeping up the maintenance 👍
Okay thanks for explaining AFM was active fuel management. For just one minute I thought I saw AMF engine and couldn’t grasp the old bowling pin setter company that bought Harley Davidson in the 70’s was involved with newer car engines.
😂
AMF
Thanks Eric!
Your Candor is appreciated.
I have a '14 Silverado that I bought used with about 90k on it. First thing I did was install an oil catch can. I do not know how it was driven by the previous owner, but I always drove it in M5 until I recently purchased the Range AFM disabler. I changed the plugs and wires at 100k and the plugs actually looked decent. These engines get a bad rap because of the added AFM and rightfully so. Also the addition of direct injection in '14 made the addition of AFM even worse in my opinion because now there is no fuel to wash away some of that oil that is being sent back through the intake manifold because of the piss poor pcv system. For those that do their research and learn the shortcomings of these engines and are willing to go the extra little bit to get the most out of them, they are a great engine. Preventative maintenance is key, but most people have no idea what that is and end up paying down the road.
I had a 2012 Odyssey with the 3.5. No issues until 90K when it started fouling plugs. The rings were improperly installed, allowing the gaps to line up. Fixed under service bulletin. Sold it with 148K miles, and still not burning any oil.
A recent video "suggestion" on my CZcams feed was tagged as "staggering rings is a myth"... Ya, a 130 year old myth confirmed by every good mechanic on earth 👍
I love real life advice about engines. Thank you! I'll add this to the list that includes the 3 valve ford V8 that loves to grenade itself.
Good job Eric
Judging by your perspective on things, Eric, it sure don’t seem like people take care of their shiz in your area! I agree with so much of what you say so often, but I’ve been in the trade since 2002, much of that time running a very busy shop that fixes all makes and models! I saw every job that came through the shop for years! These days I diagnose nearly every problem that comes through the shop, and I do not have nearly the extreme point of view on these systems that you do! Yea I have seen it… and the bulletins… on the Hondas, the gms, but not to the extent that you describe! Maintenance is huge for the well being of these systems in my opinion. I have been advising people for a long time to do their oil changes every 5000kms/3000miles with the proper synthetic oil in an effort to help the rings, and it really seems to help! I can tell you in my own personal Honda odyssey (which I bought cheap after a customer overheated the engine and cooked her), after putting an engine in with 90000miles on it, after a couple short interval oil changes I have seen oil consumption reverse! The biggest mistake people make is going by that dang oil life percentage in the dash! That little devil is a booby trap, and the OEs are the devils that set the trap there to sell vehicles on the idea of a lower cost of ownership! Them devils is liars fellers! Overkill the maintenance and the percentage of these problems goes down drastically! Of course, this does nothing for your ‘13 Chevy there - a spark plug IS the answer in that case - but it may be an answer for some folks who haven’t yet seen their Chevy thunder become Chevy blunder😂
I don't get it...we grew up near Binghamton not too far from you. My dad would wash the car once a week in the winter. He got 22+ years out of 2 different cars. Do people today never wash and just dump it at 5 years?
Building AC guy says...Thankx again Eric. Had me scared for a second...but mines a 2002 . No AMF. Great Info again.
Good morning Mr Eric, hope y'all have a great Sunday, hope you had time to read my comment in the last video,but I just wanted to thank you again for the education you have given us sir,oh almost forgot, Hello Mrs O😊😅😂