why does my voltage drop on my car audio system
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- čas přidán 26. 08. 2024
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This is why at shows you can’t just demo constantly. You need breaks to recharge.
EXACTLY! and folks run HUGE storage, and charge before shows as well.
Yep Grounding is always a major problem no matter how many Alternators Batteries/Caps you put in ya vehicle. Stabilising Voltage was a thing of the pass when I finally had a eureka moment understanding I had my ground all wrong. I have 2x 300amp alternators and my wiring is isolating from the car itself. Now I have VOLTAGE RISE when my bass notes hit. And that’s at idle🤣🤙
Yea I have more power than what I need but I’d rather have more than enough than not enough.
Great to hear your on the same page as what I know Your pretty bang on.
awesome!
Glad you explained that. I got a 03 Tahoe with 270 brand x and glowe lithium series 2 on taramps smart 5 @ 1ohm on 2 golden eagle 18s. Kept wondering why I had power drop 👍
Glad it helped
💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾
It's like we're on the same level. Hour ago I pulled in the garage and noticed Everytime it drops low I could see my headlights dim a little. 3200.1D mono on 2x 15s (only @ 4ohm & setup Free Air 2000 Accord). I didn't have the heavier speaker wire at the time and haven't stopped working on my door panels to rewire with 12g (subs to amp maybe 3ft & 8g 17ft power wire)
yea, you already know what you need, lol.
Well said man 💪🏼
Thanks Cookie Monster!
Try mini Cooper don't have lot of space
And I'm trying to find out why most people say don't run your subs through the DSP
because to get one that's worth any goo's cost 800$ that's why just like learning subs and amps buy a 200$ here 150$ there and alot to learn everyone listen to music different
are these the same people who think the earth it flat?
@@CarAudioEnthusiasts I want one for sure but seems all the ones in two hundred range even 300$ get bad reviews hinest issues and the 750 & up are the sh it
@@slowbrezze www.amazon.com/LActrical-Alternator-Hairpin-Chevrolet-secondary/dp/B08WYZ334G/ been running this one for 3 years now
May be car audio heating up then cold full power
How many watts do you need??
Jeezz
im about to run 300+ watts of speakers, 100W of tweeters and 1200W of subwoofers, so I'll need 1600+ watts
Anybody got a good source for service manuals? My car is a hybrid and i have no idea how to figure out what my electrical system looks like. I know i have a big ev battery and also a standard 12v car battery (conveniently located in the trunk) but i have no idea what the recharge capability of the system is. I just got a s.i. sql15 (1000wrms) and I'm not sure if i need to upgrade anything or not. Its a '24 camry hybrid se so if anyone could point me in the right direction i would greatly appreciate it
with 1kwatts, youre prolly fine man, and hybrids can be tricky. but if you really want a rabbit hole to dive in, look for prius bass builds.
I'm assuming that model has an EV mode that allows you to drive with the gas engine turned off. If so, then all the engine accessories like the power steering (not sure the voltage) and air conditioning (high voltage) will be electric.
This means your 12v system (lights, computers, windows, etc) is run off the 12v battery. The 12v battery will be feed or recharged through a DC to DC converter. It's going to take the 250 or so volts from the big battery under the rear seat and convert it down to 14 or so volts.
This converter will be rated for a certain amperage. I don't know what it is, but I'd guess 50A to 100A. They always build in a certain amount of Reserve in case you want to have auxiliary lights or stuff like that.
If you can't find details on it then you could probably test it and see how much amperage it could provide. You'll need a clamp style DC amp meter to put on the positive or negative cable and a DC load resistor that is used for testing batteries. The bigger ones have adjustable amperage and can pull up to 1000 amps.
Use the clamp meter to see how much is being drawn normally then add at least a 100 amp load and see how the vehicle responds. If it it maxes out at 70A then you know your DC to DC converter does 70 amps.
Once you know how much amperage it can put into the battery you'll have a good idea how much reserve you have.
1000 watt class D amplifier isn't going to be drawing 100A of current continuously. It's going to draw amperage in surges and the average is going to be a lot less like 20 to 40 amps.
So I think you'll be fine with that size amplifier. A stock electrical system on a gasoline engine can handle that and I think most DC to DC converters can handle that.
Wait, are you telling us the sub power rating? It doesn't so much matter the RMS power of the subwoofer. What matters is the amplifier you're going to use and how it's going to be loaded down. You could have a 10,000 watt amplifier, but if you're only going to turn it up to produce 100 Watts then it's not going to have any effect at all on your electrical system. Are you going to be competing in SPL contest where you need several thousands of watts?
@JasonWW2000 thanks for the info! I'll price out the clamp and resistor to see if it's something I could do. But I gave the sub rms because I don't have an amp for it just yet but I know I'll be turning it down to 1000watts. My days of pushing subs to the max are long over (probably lol)
@CarAudioEnthusiasts that... sounds like a fun rabbit hole to jump down lol I'll check em out
I think my sub amp is going protect when i stop at lights or stop signs, is this an elec problem? i have a JS alt 250 amp and big 4 1/0 sky high wirs but it still happens. the amp is skar 1500.1d
If you suspect the amp is turning off due to low voltage, monitor the voltage at the amp and see. Then you'll know.
Also keep in mind that the alternator power is based on rpm. When the vehicle is at idle it's produces it's lowest power.
@@JasonWW2000 Thanks for the comment, how can i monitor that voltage input? any help welcome!
Do you have start / stop on your car?
No, it’s 2011, no stop/start. I’m not sure what it is going on
@@InabnettMusicI assume you have a digital multimeter. Clip the leads to the positive and negative on the amplifier and then warm up your vehicle so that you're at normal idling speed. Put it in gear with your foot on the brake so that the RPMs drop down just like they would at a stop sign and then turn your music up like you would normally have it and see what the voltage dips down to.
You're not exactly correct but close enough for government work