Very informative presentation. Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge with those of us who appreciate your help installing the 3 in 1 transducer.
3M 5200 is preferrable for sealing around screws and any holes you might drill into the transom below the water line. While there are marine silicones that will work fine below the waterline, they won't hold up as long or as well as 3M 5200. I mounted this same transducer on my own fiberglass boat (Bayliner) and used a transducer mounting block which reduces the number of holes you have to drill in your transom, and allows for easy relocation if the transducer is in a spot where it may not get optimal readings. I wasn't able to mount mine as low due to bunks being in the way, and wanted to steer clear of the lower motor unit (Mercruiser sterndrive).
Whenever I mount anything in fiberglass, I always reinforce the hole with thin CA glue. This hardens the hole a great deal and the threads will never rip out.
Pardon my ignorance, but what is "CA glue"?? I've never heard of that. So you use that on the holes first, and then fill the holes with Silicon or 5200?
Fantastic effort, thanks for the effort you put into this. My only adverse comments relates to the use of transom mounting plates better than just drilling holes in the transom as per a previous comment and the use of your ratchet or torque control settings on the "drill" or electronic/cordless screw driver you are using. In my humble opinion it is better to use the torque control to ensure it does not over tighten the screw, especially when instructing people who are not tradies or not quite so savie with trade tools. Otherwise, ABSOLUTELY FANTASTIC! THANKYOU!!!!!!
Well... it depends. The two bolts that are holding it in place are usually pretty tight to prevent the transducer from lifting when your driving in the water but I suppose if u put enough pressure on it, it should still lift upwards
Sir, I have a new Topper 1542 (Bass Pro Shop) and the Lowrance HDS Live with the 3in1 transducer. I am using a 2019 Merc 9.9hp, 4 stroke for propulsion. If it were not a bother, and you know the configuration of the 1542, could you give advice for best location to mount that transducer? Thanks in advance for any feedback! Maybe you already have the answer posted, I"ll subscribe and keep looking
Nope. I actually had to film the video in reverse so the last screw was already in and had to pretend like I was screwing it in. The drill never actually touched the screw lol
Good evening my question is do you have a video on how to run the cable into your boat once the transducer is mounted in place? I have a Ranger bass boat and I am upgrading my sonars from HD S sevens to the elite TI 2.
Unfortunately no I do not. I probably should though. Rangers are one of the hardest boats to run cables through, hands down. I generally recommend tieing something strong onto the old cable and then pull it through so then you can untie whatever you used and retie it back onto the new cable and then pull that new cable back through. That's usually the easiest way to do it. Tho it's easier said than done. Rangers run their cables through very narrow pvc pipes within the side walls of your boat and there is barely any room to run a cable through it.
Yes it does. It comes with all necessary parts you need to mount it with. Unless you are putting it on a trolling motor which isn't really recommended anyways.
Just bought a Lowrance Elite TI2. Is there any concern with how close to the motor the transducer gets mounted? I have always heard to be 12” from the center of the prop. Otherwise there will be too much prop wash interference.
Basically a good rule of thumb is as long as it's far enough away to not get hit by the motor when it turns full port and starboard then it should be far enough to either side
I would like some advice which frequencies should I use to fish for snapper on a seabed ranging from 50 to 90 meters with the 3 in 1 imaging probe?, high chirp, medium chirp, 83, or 200?
Um... at that depth with salt water the medium chirp will most likely be best. Possibly the high chirp but that depth is probably too much for high chirp in salt water. It also depends on where u are located. Which coast are you?
@@nightanddaymarine8823 I'm from Reggio Calabria, it's a town located in Italy, our coasts have descents that are very aggressive, deep, many argue that on the 3in1 the high chirp is a false high chirp
@@giovanniiorfida7016 no its a real chirp signal. It operates on an 80 frequency range. Tho I'm not sure what the water conditions are like there. It depends on how cold the water is and it's saline concentration. The colder the water, the harder it is for a sonar signal to pass thru it. And in turn the lower the frequency you need.
did you end up moving it at all ever since you had it mounted exactly from this video? I’m putting mine on soon and I just wanted some extra tips so I can set mine up correctly on the back of my aluminum👍
@@nightanddaymarine8823 should I have the bottom of the transducer even with the bottom of my boat? Or should I have the transducer a little bit lower than the bottom of the boat?
So if you want to move/adjust your transducer position you drill more holes in your fibregalss transom...not very clever...Mount a POM/Delrin plate on your transom and attach the bracket to that. This way you get away with much less holes in your transom.
You can use a stern saver plate, just make sure you do not hang it over the edge of the transom and that it is perfectly in line with the bottom edge of it. Otherwise you can create additional cavitation if too low or an air pocket if too high.
Why would you ever want your transducer to move???? Every time I go out, top speed, rough seas (not on a lake), I can't afford for my ducer to move??????
I wouldn't drill right through my transom to mount such a light item, I would use #12 sheet metal screws, the holes will be threaded and practically self sealing and once installed you couldn't get them out with a crowbar.
Very informative presentation. Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge with those of us who appreciate your help installing the 3 in 1 transducer.
Thanks, needed this for my next installation... very detailed..
3M 5200 is preferrable for sealing around screws and any holes you might drill into the transom below the water line. While there are marine silicones that will work fine below the waterline, they won't hold up as long or as well as 3M 5200. I mounted this same transducer on my own fiberglass boat (Bayliner) and used a transducer mounting block which reduces the number of holes you have to drill in your transom, and allows for easy relocation if the transducer is in a spot where it may not get optimal readings. I wasn't able to mount mine as low due to bunks being in the way, and wanted to steer clear of the lower motor unit (Mercruiser sterndrive).
set that drill on 3 when putting screws through bracket to transducer
*Looks good even in daylight **enjoyable.fishing** recommend it was exactly what it was described to be , works awesome , overall happy with product*
Whenever I mount anything in fiberglass, I always reinforce the hole with thin CA glue. This hardens the hole a great deal and the threads will never rip out.
Pardon my ignorance, but what is "CA glue"?? I've never heard of that. So you use that on the holes first, and then fill the holes with Silicon or 5200?
@@Rico11b , ca glue is super glue
Fantastic effort, thanks for the effort you put into this. My only adverse comments relates to the use of transom mounting plates better than just drilling holes in the transom as per a previous comment and the use of your ratchet or torque control settings on the "drill" or electronic/cordless screw driver you are using. In my humble opinion it is better to use the torque control to ensure it does not over tighten the screw, especially when instructing people who are not tradies or not quite so savie with trade tools. Otherwise, ABSOLUTELY FANTASTIC! THANKYOU!!!!!!
There is something on that drill called adjustable torque setting :-)
Enjoyed your video, thank you, however, my problem is the 3 wires. red, yellow and black. Where do the wires go?
Thanks!
Great how to video. Thanks a lot.
thanks man this video was very helpful...
great video
if you start out drilling in reverse you'll avoid the spidering effect
Silicone never recommended below the waterline 5200 or 4200 countersink screw holes slightly to hold sealant properly
What about mounting it to a jackplate transducer mount?
Hello! Does that mount fold up for trailering and stow like the hook triple shot transducer or is it fixed?
Well... it depends. The two bolts that are holding it in place are usually pretty tight to prevent the transducer from lifting when your driving in the water but I suppose if u put enough pressure on it, it should still lift upwards
Can you hull mount this to shoot through the hull?
Unfortunately no. Down/Sidescan signals cannot penetrate thru a hull.
Sir, I have a new Topper 1542 (Bass Pro Shop) and the Lowrance HDS Live with the 3in1 transducer. I am using a 2019 Merc 9.9hp, 4 stroke for propulsion. If it were not a bother, and you know the configuration of the 1542, could you give advice for best location to mount that transducer? Thanks in advance for any feedback! Maybe you already have the answer posted, I"ll subscribe and keep looking
Am I the only one who notice the last screw he span out and striped the thread but tried to mark it look like he didn’t 😂😂
Nope. I actually had to film the video in reverse so the last screw was already in and had to pretend like I was screwing it in. The drill never actually touched the screw lol
Good evening my question is do you have a video on how to run the cable into your boat once the transducer is mounted in place? I have a Ranger bass boat and I am upgrading my sonars from HD S sevens to the elite TI 2.
Unfortunately no I do not. I probably should though. Rangers are one of the hardest boats to run cables through, hands down. I generally recommend tieing something strong onto the old cable and then pull it through so then you can untie whatever you used and retie it back onto the new cable and then pull that new cable back through. That's usually the easiest way to do it. Tho it's easier said than done. Rangers run their cables through very narrow pvc pipes within the side walls of your boat and there is barely any room to run a cable through it.
Does the bracket and cable come with the transducer?
Yes it does. It comes with all necessary parts you need to mount it with. Unless you are putting it on a trolling motor which isn't really recommended anyways.
@@nightanddaymarine8823 thanks for all the info, just ordered mine today.
Just bought a Lowrance Elite TI2. Is there any concern with how close to the motor the transducer gets mounted? I have always heard to be 12” from the center of the prop. Otherwise there will be too much prop wash interference.
Basically a good rule of thumb is as long as it's far enough away to not get hit by the motor when it turns full port and starboard then it should be far enough to either side
I would like some advice which frequencies should I use to fish for snapper on a seabed ranging from 50 to 90 meters with the 3 in 1 imaging probe?, high chirp, medium chirp, 83, or 200?
Um... at that depth with salt water the medium chirp will most likely be best. Possibly the high chirp but that depth is probably too much for high chirp in salt water. It also depends on where u are located. Which coast are you?
@@nightanddaymarine8823 I'm from Reggio Calabria, it's a town located in Italy, our coasts have descents that are very aggressive, deep, many argue that on the 3in1 the high chirp is a false high chirp
@@giovanniiorfida7016 no its a real chirp signal. It operates on an 80 frequency range. Tho I'm not sure what the water conditions are like there. It depends on how cold the water is and it's saline concentration. The colder the water, the harder it is for a sonar signal to pass thru it. And in turn the lower the frequency you need.
did you end up moving it at all ever since you had it mounted exactly from this video? I’m putting mine on soon and I just wanted some extra tips so I can set mine up correctly on the back of my aluminum👍
No I didn't need to. It ran great after that install.
@@nightanddaymarine8823 should I have the bottom of the transducer even with the bottom of my boat? Or should I have the transducer a little bit lower than the bottom of the boat?
@@ryanmanners9174 the bottom of the transducer should be about an 1/8 to a 1/4 inch below the bottom edge of the hull.
So if you want to move/adjust your transducer position you drill more holes in your fibregalss transom...not very clever...Mount a POM/Delrin plate on your transom and attach the bracket to that. This way you get away with much less holes in your transom.
A transom plate is definitely the way to go if it's possible to use. However not all boats have room for them. Especially Nitros and Rangers.
Drilling holes in the boat for the tranducers? NOT on my boat mate!!!
You can use a stern saver plate, just make sure you do not hang it over the edge of the transom and that it is perfectly in line with the bottom edge of it. Otherwise you can create additional cavitation if too low or an air pocket if too high.
@@nightanddaymarine8823 True! But I always prefer a plate above drilling holes in my boat. ;)
@@thedutchfisherman7078 5200 on screws. Seals everything up.
Why would you ever want your transducer to move???? Every time I go out, top speed, rough seas (not on a lake), I can't afford for my ducer to move??????
he explained that dummy
I don’t think it’s a good ideal to lay that transducer on concrete, the crystal’s are very delicate 🤷
murks, alles schief, Wasserwaage!
Bla bla, but please show downscan video with ai3-1, we know how to make holes in boat
It is upside down.
wrong
It’s good except he talk too much
I wouldn't drill right through my transom to mount such a light item, I would use #12 sheet metal screws, the holes will be threaded and practically self sealing and once installed you couldn't get them out with a crowbar.