I want to thank you for this video. I had to build a double gate that spanned 17' 6". I used your frame design and it is working awesome. Because of your warning about the dado throwing chips at you on the table saw I purchased a radial arm saw to cut the dados. It still threw chips at me LOL.
Have you thought about a sliding gate on a v track, solves a lot of the issues big gates face like sagging, having room to swing the doors open, stress on post, damage from wind, issues with hinges etc... Also much cheaper to add an automatic opener.
Curious about how you measured where to do the bracing, and how deep you notched to put them into the horizontals. I did see a comment reply from you saying 60° cuts. I'm buidling just your bottom half, w/ cedar 2x4s. Mirroring all your specs and adding casters below to help absorb the load.
I notched them in 3/4 of an inch and used as large of braces I could at that angle of 60 deg. If you’re going to use casters you shouldn’t have much load on the frame or hinges, so that would be great.
Awesome gates man great job!!! Although I have a comment for the bracing, it should have been better from the center of the gate in direction of the center of the horizontal member so that has more efficient way of transferring the load/forces. Besides that I LOVE the robust look of the gates! STRONG LOOK!
Good gates...I would think a big factor is also the strength of the posts the gates are attached to. The corner post looks like a 6x6 post set into concrete. Is that correct? How deep was the post set into concrete?
Thank You and that is correct, the posts are 6x6 and they are three feet deep with six inches on concrete under that. This video shows installing the posts czcams.com/video/R1U5yeycFdE/video.html This video shows the depth of the post hole towards the end czcams.com/video/KTcJqvSQ1tk/video.html
really enjoyed hearing the walkthrough of your gate build. The more I watch it the more I want to replicate for my own build. If I may ask what what the angle for your braces ? Thanks
The gates have dropped a couple inches on each side but not enough to be noticeable. I did change the hinges to using rod ends and made my own brackets for the rod ends to attach the gate to the post. If I was to do this again, I would move the vertical side rail on the gate that’s next to the post over having the horizontal rails overlap it. This would not only increase the strength of the gate but leave space between the post and the side rail on the gate. This would give you space to drill holes in the post and the gates side rail allowing you to use rod ends for hinges without needing to make custom brackets. The horizontal rails would need to have an angled cuts on them to allow the gate to open freely.
Great video and really nice result! You inspired me to go ahead and rebuild my 6ft-wide gate using 4x4s. Curious about the structural screws you used, size and length, maybe supplier? They look they might have a black finish, which looks really nice. Also, did you have any concerns about screwing into end-grain on the lap joints?
I used HeadLOK screws. They say the HeadLOK screws don’t need predrilling, but I would still drill some pilot holes. I did have concerns about screwing into the end grain. The long screws are easy to get off track, so I would be careful about that. I’d say making it, so it doesn’t rely on the screws is best. You may prefer not to use the long end screws or use some angled / pocket hole screws instead. The hinges need to be heavy duty. I ended up replacing the ones in the video with some custom ones that I made out of rod ends. A six foot gate should be easier on the hinges though.
It looks like out here they use hem fir. Another good option would be to use cedar. It doesn’t look like yellow pine is all that great, so that’s a bummer.
It’s holding up well. I should make an update video at some point. I made some adjustable heavy duty hinges out of rod ends and made brackets to mount them to the gate. A suggestion I would make is to move the vertical support of the gate a distance from the post that it mounts to, allowing you to drill holes in the post and gate to attach the rod ends to hold and adjust the gate. You could extend the pickets past that point but the space behind it needs to be open for clearance and operation.
I bought my hardware from Lowe’s but Home Depot and some local home improvement stores should have some good hardware. The brand I used was National Hardware but I’d get what looks good and strong. I did end up replacing the hinges with ones I made that are stronger than anything I could find.
4x2 would work and that’s what most would do. I wanted a beefy gate. The 4x4 construction will need heavy duty hinges and I ended up making my own to replace the ones you see in this video. A 4x2 gate would be lighter. It’s really up to you.
I used a dado set on the table saw. They can be dangerous. Another method is to cut multiple slots next to each other and chipping out the material in between.
I want to thank you for this video. I had to build a double gate that spanned 17' 6". I used your frame design and it is working awesome. Because of your warning about the dado throwing chips at you on the table saw I purchased a radial arm saw to cut the dados. It still threw chips at me LOL.
Great video! The brace explanation was by far the best I’ve heard!
Watching it in high speed made me so nervous. Even though I know it was sped up lol I was getting a little anxious. Great job!
FINALLY a Master
Thank you
I have a fence to build
Dude thank you
Nice to see someone build a gate with notched in braces, details like that are important 👍
Great work. Glad to see guys like you sharing a job done right.
Now that's a gate frame! Y'all are very talented.
The explanation of compression bracing and tension bracing is good.
John wayne is that you. Great video brother.
Enjoyed very much. Awesome job! 👊😎🤙
Gates look good. But I have never heard a more confusing explanation of tension versus compression bracing.
half lap, glued, 4x4, jointed dual diagonal braces... you could land a helicopter on that thing lol... Nice job!
Thank You Joe!
Love Canada Merci Québec 😮
Have you thought about a sliding gate on a v track, solves a lot of the issues big gates face like sagging, having room to swing the doors open, stress on post, damage from wind, issues with hinges etc... Also much cheaper to add an automatic opener.
Sliding gates are a good option
Curious about how you measured where to do the bracing, and how deep you notched to put them into the horizontals. I did see a comment reply from you saying 60° cuts. I'm buidling just your bottom half, w/ cedar 2x4s. Mirroring all your specs and adding casters below to help absorb the load.
I notched them in 3/4 of an inch and used as large of braces I could at that angle of 60 deg. If you’re going to use casters you shouldn’t have much load on the frame or hinges, so that would be great.
@@JoeMcCoskey thanks, buddy! Great job all around. Be well.
Can you show a close up shot of the brace cut out? Looks extremely durable!
Awesome gates man great job!!! Although I have a comment for the bracing, it should have been better from the center of the gate in direction of the center of the horizontal member so that has more efficient way of transferring the load/forces. Besides that I LOVE the robust look of the gates! STRONG LOOK!
Cool Joe im going to make these starting tomorrow
Pretty work dude! Gorilla glue is the only glue I'll use on outdoor applications.
Square Stern Grumman... Respect
HD Gate game on point 💣💥
If you add two more 2x4 support the gate will be stronger.
How thick was the spacer? What was it?
Good gates...I would think a big factor is also the strength of the posts the gates are attached to. The corner post looks like a 6x6 post set into concrete. Is that correct? How deep was the post set into concrete?
Thank You and that is correct, the posts are 6x6 and they are three feet deep with six inches on concrete under that.
This video shows installing the posts czcams.com/video/R1U5yeycFdE/video.html
This video shows the depth of the post hole towards the end czcams.com/video/KTcJqvSQ1tk/video.html
really enjoyed hearing the walkthrough of your gate build. The more I watch it the more I want to replicate for my own build. If I may ask what what the angle for your braces ? Thanks
Thank you, the angle of these braces is at 60 degrees. It is typically recommended for braces to be between 30 to 60 degrees.
It's been some time now, has your gates sagged at all? I'm about to build 2 - 8 foot gates with your design is there anything you would change?
The gates have dropped a couple inches on each side but not enough to be noticeable. I did change the hinges to using rod ends and made my own brackets for the rod ends to attach the gate to the post. If I was to do this again, I would move the vertical side rail on the gate that’s next to the post over having the horizontal rails overlap it. This would not only increase the strength of the gate but leave space between the post and the side rail on the gate. This would give you space to drill holes in the post and the gates side rail allowing you to use rod ends for hinges without needing to make custom brackets. The horizontal rails would need to have an angled cuts on them to allow the gate to open freely.
Great video and really nice result! You inspired me to go ahead and rebuild my 6ft-wide gate using 4x4s. Curious about the structural screws you used, size and length, maybe supplier? They look they might have a black finish, which looks really nice. Also, did you have any concerns about screwing into end-grain on the lap joints?
I used HeadLOK screws. They say the HeadLOK screws don’t need predrilling, but I would still drill some pilot holes. I did have concerns about screwing into the end grain. The long screws are easy to get off track, so I would be careful about that. I’d say making it, so it doesn’t rely on the screws is best. You may prefer not to use the long end screws or use some angled / pocket hole screws instead. The hinges need to be heavy duty. I ended up replacing the ones in the video with some custom ones that I made out of rod ends. A six foot gate should be easier on the hinges though.
I will be getting a full face shield to deal with the flying chips.
Great video and Great Great Work my Friend, Well done ,CHEERS
Hello, the video is very good. I would like to know how heavy each door is, thank you very much
I don’t know for sure but probably a little over 200 lbs per gate. They are heavy and require strong hinges.
I want to make a single swing 11 foot gate, I’m using this here design
Great video
What type of pressure treated wood did you use? Doesn’t look like yellow pine which is all you can find here in Oklahoma.
It looks like out here they use hem fir. Another good option would be to use cedar. It doesn’t look like yellow pine is all that great, so that’s a bummer.
great layout, im going to try single 10'...
6x6x10 about 3’ to 4’ in ground…run same style you did, I believe a 10 foot gate should hold up well
Hello Please can you tell me how wide is each gate and how far from the stile does the the braces go outwards the centre of the gate.
Super clean ……………
Thank you for the content! Btw, any idea if this can be accomplished with 2x4s?
Thank You, yes this can be done with 2x4s it will have a tendency to flex but if you have a top latch and bottom latch, it shouldn’t be noticeable.
What kind of door hinge did you use. Great job buddy
I used some from National Hardware. Although, I ended up replacing them with some that I made, that are heavier duty than anything I could find.
Overkill? Nah never heard of her.... this will last a long ass time!!!!
Awesome
How is the gate now? Its been almost 2 years now. I need to create a 10' gate, do you have any suggestions on your design for it?
It’s holding up well. I should make an update video at some point. I made some adjustable heavy duty hinges out of rod ends and made brackets to mount them to the gate. A suggestion I would make is to move the vertical support of the gate a distance from the post that it mounts to, allowing you to drill holes in the post and gate to attach the rod ends to hold and adjust the gate. You could extend the pickets past that point but the space behind it needs to be open for clearance and operation.
Thx for the video! Can you please provide hardware details and where you purchased them from?
I bought my hardware from Lowe’s but Home Depot and some local home improvement stores should have some good hardware. The brand I used was National Hardware but I’d get what looks good and strong. I did end up replacing the hinges with ones I made that are stronger than anything I could find.
What’s type of lumber did you use?
I believe I used pressure treated Hem-Fir lumber
Can you tell me why you added that round tube to the post on the ground.
I wanted some concrete to stick out of the ground to drain water away from the post and I wanted the exposed concrete to look good.
Dose it have to be 4x4 or could I use 4x2
4x2 would work and that’s what most would do. I wanted a beefy gate. The 4x4 construction will need heavy duty hinges and I ended up making my own to replace the ones you see in this video. A 4x2 gate would be lighter. It’s really up to you.
So I guess I'm mentally challenged. I have a table saw but I cannot figure out how to cut the notches with it. Also have recip. saw.
I used a dado set on the table saw. They can be dangerous. Another method is to cut multiple slots next to each other and chipping out the material in between.
Looks like your boats stuck in there
I should have moved it for the video. It doesn’t have much space to move around with the motorhome and car in there but it can be moved.
i take it that’s cedar ?
It's pressure treated wood (pine). Cedar would be a better option.