It's so nice to actually see this done on a lift in a clean shop with all tools and new materials on the ready. The torque info is very helpful. The reminder to place the metal insert into the new filter with the clever graphic is excellent. I've heard that it's a good idea to reset the counterbalancer chain tensioner (a.k.a. doohickey) at each oil change. It's an easy adjustment, especially when the bike is on the lift. Thanks for a great video!
Thank you! I should have recorded the chain tensioner two, I though it would be better to do another video but it’s to short and easy for a video. I’m glad it was helpful!
Did you notice air bubbles in the new oil after you ran it? I did but it went away after it warmed up. It seemed like it was carbonated like a soda until it worked out the bubbles. I had to add a small amount of oil to bring it between the lines. You have to wait for it to settle down before checking for those of us that can't wait.
I have been eyeing that one for this same reasons, I didn’t think about the fact it would just cover the bolt and no need to replace. Ive been waiting till the next oil change to swap it out and soft bags to come in to have a little more fun off road with it, maybe ill just buy the plate and get out there!
@@ScoutsOut Another reason to keep the original drain plug to me is it is a regular bolt. The flush mount ones take an allen socket. I hate those. Always worried about stripping it out. My boy has a flat allen drain plug on his CRF450L and every time we change the oil in it (which is recommended every 600miles) The plug is hard to get out. Seems like it tightens up over time. I hate that drain plug. We may have to change it out with something else and get him a better metal skid plate.
I’d suggest replacing the drain plug with a Tusk flush-mount, magnetic drain plug, if you ever plan on riding the bike on harder singletrack; after all, it only has 8.3” ground clearance.
I do not see your torque wrench listed in the description. I like how it beeped when you hit the correct torque. What torque wrench do you use and where is the best place to buy one? Thanks!
Yea it’s sadly a snap on one and they are about $700 which is insane lol so I linked good but affordable torque wrench. If you want one of the snap on ones it’s a snap on techanlge torque wrench
Thanks for doing this. Just a quick question. How important is a torque wrench? I am 70 and I've been riding motorcycles pretty much all of my life and although I have used one when I was teaching automotives in high school, I have never used one on my bikes. Some of the torque wrenches sell for as much as $300! Some don't register to less than 20 ft/lbs where a number of the bolts on the KLR require 15 ft/lbs (exhaust and foot pegs). What do you recommend?
I used to teach diesel mechanics in the army, that's awesome. To me it's very important, although I really only use one on engine internals, anything that can leak fluids or something that would be catastrophic if it came loose. I recommend getting a 3/8's or 1/4 torque wrench depending on what you're doing. I know harbor freight is not known for the best tools but their cheap torque wrenches are not bad. I watched testing of them showing they keep up in spec like the more expensive ones do,.
With filter you need 2.1, some will argue you can put more than that in the KLR. I would agree even with 2.1 i was still barely below the halfway point in the sight glass
It's so nice to actually see this done on a lift in a clean shop with all tools and new materials on the ready. The torque info is very helpful. The reminder to place the metal insert into the new filter with the clever graphic is excellent. I've heard that it's a good idea to reset the counterbalancer chain tensioner (a.k.a. doohickey) at each oil change. It's an easy adjustment, especially when the bike is on the lift. Thanks for a great video!
Thank you! I should have recorded the chain tensioner two, I though it would be better to do another video but it’s to short and easy for a video. I’m glad it was helpful!
A great video mate, as always super explained and great footage. It was very interesting. Thanks for sharing and have a nice Sunday. Ride on🤙
Thanks ck have a good week bro
@@ScoutsOut Thanks 🙏,i wish you the same buddy 🙌
Excellent video, Scouts Out. I appreciate the direct and straight forward info. You got my sub.
Thank you! Much appreciated
Thanks for this video. Quickest oil change I think I have ever done on any vehicle. Salud!
Glad it was helpful! Prost!
Nice and easy. Thx for the video
Glad it was helpful 🍻
The new 2.0 litre specs are wrong. Use 2.5L as per the older spec. Two litres is way too low and will eventually damage that motor.
I could see how it could take more, the 2.1 I put in was just barely under half on the sight glass so more oil can be put in for sure
Fill that sucker :)
I know how to change oil, but the guards that will allow me to keep my original Adventure case guards and a 339 skid plate is a hot tip. Thanks!
Nice glad you got something useful out of the vid!
I love that you include torque specs.
Thanks man 🍻
Excellent!!!
Thank you sir!
Gtreat job once again mate...
:D
Thanks bro🍻
Good video thanks for the torque settings where did you get that motorcycle service stand
Thanks Allan, it’s the harbor freight stand
Later: re, the drain plug...a couple quarts of oil to get it right is cheaper than a new crankcase, if the OEM bolt shears or takes a good smack.
Did you notice air bubbles in the new oil after you ran it? I did but it went away after it warmed up. It seemed like it was carbonated like a soda until it worked out the bubbles. I had to add a small amount of oil to bring it between the lines. You have to wait for it to settle down before checking for those of us that can't wait.
yea there were a little, and it takes a while for the oil to come back down into the pan to check it.
Pre-oil the filter and that should go away.
get the trex skid plate and you don't have to worry about your drain bolt or your lower link.
I have been eyeing that one for this same reasons, I didn’t think about the fact it would just cover the bolt and no need to replace. Ive been waiting till the next oil change to swap it out and soft bags to come in to have a little more fun off road with it, maybe ill just buy the plate and get out there!
@@ScoutsOut Another reason to keep the original drain plug to me is it is a regular bolt. The flush mount ones take an allen socket. I hate those. Always worried about stripping it out. My boy has a flat allen drain plug on his CRF450L and every time we change the oil in it (which is recommended every 600miles) The plug is hard to get out. Seems like it tightens up over time. I hate that drain plug. We may have to change it out with something else and get him a better metal skid plate.
Good point, I don't like the hex bolts either
I’d suggest replacing the drain plug with a Tusk flush-mount, magnetic drain plug, if you ever plan on riding the bike on harder singletrack; after all, it only has 8.3” ground clearance.
For sure I’ve already bought it just waiting for next oil change which will be very soon
No Rotella!!!? Blasphemy!!! Just kidding....nice video mate.😂
Haha!, thanks
I do not see your torque wrench listed in the description. I like how it beeped when you hit the correct torque. What torque wrench do you use and where is the best place to buy one? Thanks!
Yea it’s sadly a snap on one and they are about $700 which is insane lol so I linked good but affordable torque wrench. If you want one of the snap on ones it’s a snap on techanlge torque wrench
What gaurds did you say workd for the front fairing, i didnt see a link. Thank you!
Installing T-Rex crash guards 2023 Kawasaki KLR 650
czcams.com/video/pOhv9XppJrQ/video.html
Thanks for doing this. Just a quick question. How important is a torque wrench? I am 70 and I've been riding motorcycles pretty much all of my life and although I have used one when I was teaching automotives in high school, I have never used one on my bikes. Some of the torque wrenches sell for as much as $300! Some don't register to less than 20 ft/lbs where a number of the bolts on the KLR require 15 ft/lbs (exhaust and foot pegs). What do you recommend?
I used to teach diesel mechanics in the army, that's awesome. To me it's very important, although I really only use one on engine internals, anything that can leak fluids or something that would be catastrophic if it came loose.
I recommend getting a 3/8's or 1/4 torque wrench depending on what you're doing. I know harbor freight is not known for the best tools but their cheap torque wrenches are not bad. I watched testing of them showing they keep up in spec like the more expensive ones do,.
Do you turn the bottom bolt clockwise or counter clockwise to take off?
Counter
I couldn't find the link for the crush washers.
the kit comes with one, but I also added them to the description as well. amzn.to/3Y62RZ8
How long do you have to wait to check the level after the engine ran?
5 min should be enough. Just make sure it’s perfectly standing up, it doesn’t take much of a lean on the bike to show to low or to high
Why do you have three quarts of oil in the picture?
With filter you need 2.1, some will argue you can put more than that in the KLR. I would agree even with 2.1 i was still barely below the halfway point in the sight glass
On how many miles do you suggest second oil change?
The manual says every 7.6k miles. I'm going to replace ever 5k personally. Hope this helps
Can’t remember if you said or not is it fuel injected or carb?
They are EFI now, finally no more carbs
@@ScoutsOut nice, it got big upgrades then, it was way behind the times until now, hopefully there are some cool upgrades available 🤙🏼
Yea bro these had carbs up to 2018 then died off till 2022 and much better bikes now
How many miles for first oil change?
I did it at 600, which is common for most bikes.
You didn't even get any oil on your hands when you pulled out the oil plug!
Haha…. Magic lol