So, what's better model plastics or UV resin plastics?
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- čas přidán 10. 09. 2024
- So, what's the best material? What holds the detail best? What are the pros and cons of each type, and what should I know before starting a journey down the resin printing rabbit hole!
My Lychee Settings
Super Light and Light supports
1.10 - 1.22 bar diameter
0.10 - 0.22 tip diameter
3.10 - 3.55 tip length
raft - line/support triangle, or shape
bottom thickness on supports .30 - .25 - .45, raft is .50 (varies based on object mass)
Mediums
1.33 - 1.44 bar diameter
0.33 - 0.44 tip diameter
3.33 - 3.55 tip length
raft - line/support triangle, or shape
bottom thickness on supports .45 - .50 - .55, raft is .60 (varies based on object mass)
Heavy
1.55 - 1.77 bar diameter
0.55 - 0.77 tip diameter
3.55 - 3.77 tip length
raft - line/support triangle, or shape
bottom thickness on supports .50, raft is .70 (varies based on object mass)
Happy printing!
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/ printmy3dmini
printmymini.store - Shop Buy physical prints!
printmymini.com/ - Hire us for pre-supporting, teaching, training and more!
I've come to love the water washable resin. It gives a smooth, matted look (while the standard resin has a glossier look though it doesn't matter when painted) and I prefer the fact less prep work is necessary for me (sanding, picking off support bits, etc) than my FDM.
I think resin is definitely the better option.
Love it, yeah water washable is getting better all the time.
appreciate you making a video and informing people allot! the biggest thing you could improve is a better audio setup. imo a headset mic would already be better but if you have a standing one and this is not the webcam or laptop mic please dont have it sit directly on your desk(an arm not attached to the desk) is best but some hard foam and a book on top of that will already help, maybe also get a pop filter. best of luck to you.
I need a filter, I have a free standing Mic, it's actually a nice one made by Yeti. I have a large room and I need a better studio to help with sound travel, a lot of my audio sounds hollow for that reason. Thanks for the advice though, always trying to improve the channel.
Thank you for this comparison video. I don’t have personal experience with “store-bought” models, so thought I’d ask the following: 1) l thought some shops sell their designed models (supported and/or unsupported) that are exclusively or mostly UV-resin 3D-printed by themselves in their shops? I would think this would be prevalent now, with high-detail resins and high-detail 3D resin printers. Also, I would think the molds for injection molding of models would be a high up-front cost, especially for smaller shops with smaller-size production runs of their models. Sure, silicone or similar molds for poured resins might be relatively cheap, but I’m not sure what portion of the store-bought models go this route (and the nominally-higher material cost for the amount of resin used in the poured, solid models. 2) Do online stores (etc) usually tell customers if their products (i. e. models they sell) are specifically 3D printed vs. injection molded vs. poured resin, or do they leave it to the customer to guess and just figure it out when they actually get the model in-hand? Anyway, great food for thought in your video. Oh, and your tee shirt design is cool with the Van Gogh inspired “starry night” Stars Wars theme!
Thanks, love that shirt. Yeah my experience has been that making molds and silicone pours, tanks for taking the air out, etc. all of that is cost ... plus time. Materials are cheaper in bulk, like you can get gallons of resin for very little $$. 3D printing by far is still the most cost effective way to make models and minis for sure, but the cost of making injection molds and all of that is very high. Looked at a machine once that does the whole thing automation and all, $15000 just for the bottom of the line machine.
When it comes to bends in your characters weapons, the solution is simple get a compression clip and two pieces of thin card board (cereal boxes work well), cut the cardboard a lil larger than the weapon, shaft, blade, etc. place a piece of cardboard on each side, then use the compression clip to squeeze both sides and hold it together leave it over night, then cover the mini with a dark material accept the weapon thats bent and cure it in the cure station for 40 sec. Then remove the clip ans card board from the weapon and presto strait weapon.
I know there are ways to fix them, but it's super annoying and doesn't happen on my 3d prints.
I've been printing minis for D&D for 3.5 years now and my biggest problem is sculptors who don't take into account the material it's being printed in. They sculpt stuff that looks great on the screen for their patreon/socials but will snap in half if you look at it sideways. Having parts snap off a model when you are trying to get it prepped and painted is really frustrating. Spending more money for a flexible resin can help mitigate that, but those generally are harder to print with and lose a little bit of detail - but they are getting better. From my experience anything smaller than a toothpick is around the cutoff where brittleness matters during normal handling. Chunkier models might break being dropped on tile or cement but you aren't going to break them just picking them up.
Also, bendy parts is not a problem, it's a feature. Bendy parts >>> broken off parts
The sculpture is not at fault for the printers (the individual not the printing machine) faults.
I've never had a print break while prepping or painting, I have had breaks from dropping pieces or my grandkids getting to rough with my minis they are not supposed to be playing with.
The problem with brittleness and pieces breaking primarily is with over curing pieces.
Every sec matters and the correct formula for printing minis is height x volume. Multiply the height of the print x the volume of resin used on the build plate.
For example: if your built plate contains 6 miniatures at a height of 32mm and will use 55ml to print it's .32 x .55 = .176 the answer is measured in sec in this equation. That's the. Correct curing time for EA side of the mini.
Like you correctly stated in your comment, the type of resin used plays a factor as well. However regardless of the type of resin used, nothing should be breaking during prep, in instances of sanding, I recommended using a Dremel with a fine sanding bit to eliminate support dimples on delicate areas of the model.
User error is the fault in mini's breaking.
I mean it feels like a feature
Have snapped a sword or two when dry brushing and I get a little carried away. My fault entirely.
I feel you, i have had over-supported minis break on support removal and that is always a bummer.