How to Catch a Wave Easily Part 1 Mason Ho
Vložit
- čas přidán 21. 06. 2020
- Free paddling technique email course: www.surfingpaddling.com/free-...
In this video I analyze Mason Ho paddling into a wave and discuss paddling technique, timing, and strategy on how to start catching waves easily. In Part 2, I begin comparing Mason's wave to a wave John John Florence catches with ease. And in Part 3, I analyze a wave Kolohe Andino catches with ease.
These are concepts covered in the Level 2 Paddling Technique course. For more information, visit
www.SurfingPaddling.com - Sport
Surf Science at its finest.
Thanks for the feedback!
Great as always. One of the errors I made for years, that would pull me out of waves was in my pop-up. When I would pop-up I would pull my upper body backwards quickly right at the critical moment when you need to slip the face. I was doing this half to get the nose out of the water and half just being disoriented by the angle being steeper. So I started keeping my upper body over the nose as I would get to my feet, and it keeps your board engaged and planing. It was the difference between catching a ton of waves and zero.
Great share. Thank you. That happens to many surfers and I think it’s awesome to hear. It’s like dropping into a half pipe on a skateboard. Commitment is required but proper body mechanics more so.
This is the best explanation I have ever seen in videos. Details are key! Thank you so much!!
Thanks so much for that feedback! So kind. Glad the details help!
Awesome awesome explanation!
I’m starting to overstand the art of surfing. Thank you so much
LOL! Yeah, sometimes we think about it too much. But super glad it helps a bit. Cheers!
Great analysis ! Some nice ideas and breakdown. Thanks Rob !
Cheers! Thanks!
longboards catch waves earlier or even do NO-PADDLE take-offs because the wave lifts the tail into a gravity-friendly slope. Shortboarders kick, not for forward propulsion, but rather to create lift where there is no tail.
Well said! Thought there hasn’t been any studies confirming this, that is my theory as well for the shortboard kicking. Plenty of studies in swimming confirming the kick does both propulsion and reduction in drag, but the only research so far in paddling for kicking is that it increases velocity (in flat water). No studies on when catching a wave yet but hopefully we figure out how to set that up. Thanks for the comment!
This video made me understand many new parts of catching a wave, this is amazing!
Thanks Rob and thanks a lot to the guy on Reddit that mentioned your channel. Changed my surfing for sure!!
Appreciate the feedback and kind words. Great to hear!
Surfing explained with spreadsheets, I love it 🤓
Thanks for sharing this small course and for all the time you've put to create it. It's very valuable information!
Thanks for the feedback! Nerds unite
All of your vids helped me a lot! Thank you 👍
Rad to hear! Thanks for the feedback and comment
Perhaps more attention should be given regarding how to get the wave to just pick up the board naturally. Ive never been convinced i could paddle hard enough to match the speed of the wave and youve confirmed that. As with most things experience and subtle technique make all the difference. Surfing is hard to master but the masters make it look easy. Longer boards for easier paddle-ins help me the most.
Sick thanks Rob, helping me navigate some steep winter SoCal waves in 2022 🤙🏼
Right on! Thanks for the feedback. This winter has been epic up here so hoping you’re getting some in SoCal!
Awesome analysis. Thank you
Appreciate the feedback! Stoked you got something from it.
This is gold! Thank you
Ah man, thank you so much for the kind words. That’s epic you liked it and hopefully find it helpful. Thanks for the comment! Cheers
awesome stuff - I feel like how you can read waves gets broader the better you get at it.
Absolutely! And the more you look at waves.
I saw all three parts. Nobody talks about this stuff. Could you do an example of someone getting pitched or blowing a late takeoff on a large wave...say overhead?
Thanks for the comment. I cover this in my Level 2 course and have several examples so definitely. Give me a bit of time since I have a few other concepts I want to get to first.
Thank you so much Rob ! Nobody tell you this
Appreciate the feedback and comment. Thank you!
Yooo i have never seen such amazing work like this ever
Dude. Thanks so much. Glad you enjoyed it. Hope you learned something that is useful.
Makes it look so ridiculously easy
The break hes at in this video is actually on the complete opposite side of the island that the swell is hitting the wave has to wrap almost 90° around the island. Then goes from about 30ft of water to almost dry once its barreling. Favorite break but super sketchy
It looks sketchy for sure! And the way in which it breaks makes sense that it goes from super deep to super shallow.
So, for surfing you need to kinda sink the board until the wave lift you up until the right angle? Then the nose pops out and you can take advantage of gravity
That's one technique to gain initial starting momentum, but one can also use regular paddling strokes to get that as well.
Awesome breakdown when are u coming to SD again?
Stoked you liked the vid! Coming to SD in May for group workshops: www.surfingpaddling.com/level-1-paddling-technique-group-workshops
Great video! Question, would a board with more volume easier be sucked up to the lip or would it be easier for him to paddle it down the wave? The extra volume obviously paddles easier , but at the same time I feel the extra float also pulls it quicker upwards as gravity works less on it ? Basically: why is it easier to take of lower on a wave with less volume then with a bigger floaty board? I especially feel this with wider nose boards , theoretically they float better but they are also somehow more difficult to push down the line with just gravity? Getting confused by this…
Great question. And I don’t believe there’s enough science to conclude anything, but we do know a few things. Such as, the water molecules pull up when the wave progresses into later stages of formation. So if you had a vessel that has more mass, it may be pulled upward faster than one that has less mass. However, that’s with no paddling. If we incorporate paddling, even a little, that high volume board will experience less drag and therefore get through the transition to planing sooner. Again, though, the wave will need to be in the optimal stage of development for the surfer to get to speed, get down it, and set a rail before the transition gets too tight. It’s more about different what I call “runways” for the different designs as well as how quickly the wave’s curve changes.
Good stuff Rob! Are you high school teacher or professor? I ask because I’m a high school math teacher who loves to surf and you sound like a teacher!
Lol! Not a teacher. Not good enough for that. But I will take the compliment with great pride. Very much appreciate the comment and glad you are enjoying the videos.
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS.
You're amazing
Thanks for the feedback and kind words. Really appreciate it!
@@RobCaseXSWIM you're very welcome and deserve a million more.
Have a kick ass day brother man
Isn't the water moving as it starts to beak and being in that water he's pushed with it. Hence the takeoff is just tipping the board to slide down the apparent ramp. The waves speed slows but the water accelerates and Mason with it.
This is why shortboards can catch waves at all.
Ps I can catch a wave bodysurfing without paddling just by using the surge and lifting my feet to slide the face.
Yes. The two forces are gravity (which is discussed here in terms of an incline plane) and momentum of the waves direction (what you reference is the surge). Mason has to move inside, under the ledge to tap into the gravity and momentum of the lower wave. That’s the key in this situation.
john madden as a surf coach
LOL! Love that guy
Why is he taking off way back here? That was my question lol
And it’s a good question. The curvature of the wave and the development of the wave where he is taking off gives him more time to get down the wave and rail set than if he took off at the peak. All relates to those angles. Plus, he wanted to get barreled. If he took off at the peak or in closer to the camera, he would outrun the barrel.
10 people don’t believe physics is a thing 🤦🏽♂️
and 4 out of 3 people struggle with math. LOL!
You lost me when you called the wave 10-12 ft!! Cmon now!! Let’s just say head high, but definitely not double OH
Lol! Yeah, I know, wave height is always a debate. As I explained (but quite quickly so I get that you missed it), the Scripps shallow water wave formula calculates a wave’s speed based on the wave’s “true height” which by their definition is the height in feet from the trough to the crest of the wave. That’s not in surf terms of height. “True height” from the flattest part of the bottom to the top peak is what I needed to estimate to get an approximate speed. Mason bottom turns well before the actual flat bottom of the wave so you have to factor space below and above him.
You see guys, Physics are useful, even you know this, the whole explanation when applying to surf is just : Paddle hard.
Im here because Today is the day i have done my biggest wipeout, paddled insane, but just 1 sec later than i should so i became 1 with a 2m wave lip :D
Mason Ho is about 4 ft tall so that makes this wave about 6ft at best. Honestly, less would be more here. Explain the importance of planing and using the steepness of the wave to get you in, but all this diagram stuff was overkill.
Thanks for the feedback
Thanks Rob.
Clay at Ombe promotes the Oreo Technique. It requires little paddling if you're in the bottom power zone or pocket.
It doesn't work on the shoulder on a short board but you see longboarders doing it all the time.
Pushing up into a Cobra forces the back of the board down. Because the wave is carrying to lift the board you can only go forwards so the board accelerates - if the wave has sufficient energy or push.
Could you analyse this technique please?
Thank you. Hadyn
Good questions. I love Clayton's oreo bisquit technique and he and I have spoken at great lengths about wave catching.
Generally, you have the essence of it - you need to be at the exact perfect spot/location - he calls it the bus stop.
But there are instances where we aren't in the right spot. So in those scenarios, should we just skip the wave? Or is there something else we can do to catch the wave?
In my Level 2 course, we discuss the different scenarios and there is one umbrella concept that includes the Oreo scenario vs other scenarios. A good topic for a podcast or blog so I'll add it to the list. Thanks for suggesting.