Hello, I abandoned the idea of flattening only the left side bevel of Bark River knives. BRs are good enough in their convex geometry for their purposes.
Yes the Garberg also makes smaller longer curls than my other knives, nice cone shaped feathers. I also think the handle design gives you more control for keeping the knife straight and the cut path in control. I've noticed that I can stop my curls easier without cutting them off, you are able to go deep or shallow on the move. Other knives can cut deeper but you lose control for thin cuts especially if the handle is to thin or odd shaped. I believe the Garberg is the best Mora knife for Bush crafting, the handle design and material is superior than all their other knives, GOOD REVIEW😉
Very informative, well explained and demonstrated. I agree with your findings and find that the thinner stock and narrower bevel work well. Thanks for sharing. All the best from Scotland. Garry
Hello from Alabama, just got my 8oo/4000 king stone,and I have been trying to sharpen some of my knives. It seems I have lot to learn. I told some of my Japanese patients about you and they are pleased I have interest in their country
Can't beat a Mora. From skinning, to batoning, to feather sticking, Moras consistently hold their own or out perform significantly more expensive knives. We can buy dozens of Moras for the cost of one Bark River. Just wish they were prettier!
In my opinion the thinner the grind the better at feathers in terms of the Scandinavian grind. It seems to allow more options of having very fine curls to very deep wide thick curls. Whereas the thicker scandi tends to be a one-trick horse. Jmho
My A S Harding Woodlore clone in 4 mm 01 with a zero scandi is an absolute feather stick machine I have to do my bit of course and I am a master of the feather stick but with that particular knife it just seems effortless.Thank you for your thoughts on the subject!
intersting hypothesis. I will think on it. Thank you. One thing that comes to mind is wondering how much the movement of the edge (as a function of bevel height) is a factor once the knife has already bit into the wood. From that point it would seem it's trajectory is guided more by the wood than by your hand, unless you apply significant pressure to cut in a new direction.
Ponder on. I'm sure many a Cro-Magnon Man sat around the campfire, having the very same debate, as Nick Sweeney & All the tea in China. And yet, to this very day, we still look deep into the fire ? And above us the Space Station & other satellites orbit.
i believe that the flatness and angle of the grind shortly behind the apex will have the biggest influence. another human factor is the wrist strength of the user. just my 2 cents.
Your hypothesis has me thinking. I think the ratio of "spine to bevel top:bevel top to edge" is what you are feeling in your test. The larger the ratio (example 2:1) the more you can move the spine of your knife with the same effect as a smaller ratio (example 1:1). Think of a lever and you move the fulcrum. When the fulcrum in in the middle both sides move at the same rate, and if you move the fulcrum closer to one side they move at different rates. The closer the fulcrum (bevel top) is to the edge in comparison to its the distance to the spine the more control you obtain. In my hypothesis, thickness and edge to bevel top the same, a broader (wider) knife should be better than a narrower one for feather sticking.
love the garberg and my 2 carbon and stainles heavy duty improved companion in orange, i know i cannot make perfect full non sec scandi so, is just convexing the apex a bit a good way to inprove cutting and apex edge
Love your videos, keep up the good work. I just picked up a Higo no kami and am wondering if you are familiar with them. I am also wondering if you would be willing to translate the kanji as I am having a hard time getting it translated.
Should i put a forced patina on my mora companion highcarbon with mustard/vinegar or should i leave it as is i will oil it plenty i just wonder if it has benefits
Mors Kochanski has already worked out the perfect blade geometry for feather sticking. It's less about the angle of the grind and more about the shape of the blade. A blade with a curved belly that runs the entire length of the knife will make better curls than a flat edge because of the way it cuts at different times into the wood. the curls come from the resistance of the parts of a feather being cut slightly before other parts. Neither of those knives has the correct shape for 12 or 14 curls per feather.
Mors has also proven they can be done with any blade in any grind. Thus it is 99% about skill, and 1% blades. Point made: czcams.com/video/tsLXRSLv8V8/video.html
áhu3r0 38h0qt I wondered why Dr. Wako harvested so many deer, and googled hunting in Japan. It was reported that younger people rarely hunt in Japan, and the countryside, as well as farming areas, is overrun with deer and bears.
Aldito Hernandez I like convex grinds BUT you lose a bit of that hair popping cut for making notches. It all depends on what you use your knives most for, scandivex for me is my favorite. It like to strop a micro bevel just enough to strengthen the edge but not on all my knives......Scandis are just to darn fun to use, gotta always have a true zero grind around.😁
How does this theory affect your knife buying habits? Will this theory change your blade re-profiling efforts?
Hello,
I abandoned the idea of flattening only the left side bevel of Bark River knives. BRs are good enough in their convex geometry for their purposes.
Your plan works well for my Ctek Gunny 3V.
Can we see your 2017 knife collection Please ☺️❤️🔪
Yes the Garberg also makes smaller longer curls than my other knives, nice cone shaped feathers. I also think the handle design gives you more control for keeping the knife straight and the cut path in control. I've noticed that I can stop my curls easier without cutting them off, you are able to go deep or shallow on the move. Other knives can cut deeper but you lose control for thin cuts especially if the handle is to thin or odd shaped.
I believe the Garberg is the best Mora knife for Bush crafting, the handle design and material is superior than all their other knives, GOOD REVIEW😉
Very informative, well explained and demonstrated. I agree with your findings and find that the thinner stock and narrower bevel work well. Thanks for sharing. All the best from Scotland. Garry
Hello from Alabama, just got my 8oo/4000 king stone,and I have been trying to sharpen some of my knives. It seems I have lot to learn. I told some of my Japanese patients about you and they are pleased I have interest in their country
Awesome a new one! Thank you Doctor!
Another awesome video, thanks for sharing, enjoyed watching it, thumbs up and best regards from an old New Zealand friend, Tony.
Thanks, love your hypothesis!! It makes sense. Also thanks for all the knowledge it's helped a lot.
Wooohooo hello knife people!!
I want a video tour of that stainless steel sink and sharpening area of yours. I'd like to see all the stones and sharpening equipment you have.
Very clear explanation. Thank you!
I enjoy this very much ☺️❤️
Good to see your videos again. Can you make a sharpening video pls. It's been a while. Thanks
My mora has done everything from skinning a deer, to cutting up small pieces of wood for my tent stove.
Can't beat a Mora. From skinning, to batoning, to feather sticking, Moras consistently hold their own or out perform significantly more expensive knives. We can buy dozens of Moras for the cost of one Bark River. Just wish they were prettier!
In my opinion the thinner the grind the better at feathers in terms of the Scandinavian grind. It seems to allow more options of having very fine curls to very deep wide thick curls. Whereas the thicker scandi tends to be a one-trick horse. Jmho
My A S Harding Woodlore clone in 4 mm 01 with a zero scandi is an absolute feather stick machine I have to do my bit of course and I am a master of the feather stick but with that particular knife it just seems effortless.Thank you for your thoughts on the subject!
intersting hypothesis. I will think on it. Thank you. One thing that comes to mind is wondering how much the movement of the edge (as a function of bevel height) is a factor once the knife has already bit into the wood. From that point it would seem it's trajectory is guided more by the wood than by your hand, unless you apply significant pressure to cut in a new direction.
Ponder on. I'm sure many a Cro-Magnon Man sat around the campfire, having the very same debate, as Nick Sweeney & All the tea in China. And yet, to this very day, we still look deep into the fire ? And above us the Space Station & other satellites orbit.
i believe that the flatness and angle of the grind shortly behind the apex will have the biggest influence. another human factor is the wrist strength of the user. just my 2 cents.
Garberg is a great bushcraft blade
Your hypothesis has me thinking. I think the ratio of "spine to bevel top:bevel top to edge" is what you are feeling in your test. The larger the ratio (example 2:1) the more you can move the spine of your knife with the same effect as a smaller ratio (example 1:1).
Think of a lever and you move the fulcrum. When the fulcrum in in the middle both sides move at the same rate, and if you move the fulcrum closer to one side they move at different rates. The closer the fulcrum (bevel top) is to the edge in comparison to its the distance to the spine the more control you obtain.
In my hypothesis, thickness and edge to bevel top the same, a broader (wider) knife should be better than a narrower one for feather sticking.
love the garberg and my 2 carbon and stainles heavy duty improved companion in orange, i know i cannot make perfect full non sec scandi so, is just convexing the apex a bit a good way to inprove cutting and apex edge
Love your videos, keep up the good work. I just picked up a Higo no kami and am wondering if you are familiar with them. I am also wondering if you would be willing to translate the kanji as I am having a hard time getting it translated.
I make my best feathers on my Bark River CPM 154 Bushbat JX4. Scandi-vex
Also my EDC
Will you please do a Bark River ultralite bushcrafter review ☺️❤️
Youre my absolute favorite
Nice video.v can u show how to sharpen ascandi edge. Which is better water stone or diamond to sharpen Scandi
Hi man what's the best grind for survival. Bushcraft.haunting knife? Convex or scandi.Please answer me.Thankyou.
Should i put a forced patina on my mora companion highcarbon with mustard/vinegar or should i leave it as is i will oil it plenty i just wonder if it has benefits
Please watch out for the typhoon coming your way wako san
Mors Kochanski has already worked out the perfect blade geometry for feather sticking. It's less about the angle of the grind and more about the shape of the blade. A blade with a curved belly that runs the entire length of the knife will make better curls than a flat edge because of the way it cuts at different times into the wood. the curls come from the resistance of the parts of a feather being cut slightly before other parts. Neither of those knives has the correct shape for 12 or 14 curls per feather.
Paul Worms froh a Desktop worker, A handcrafter will Not Talk about These phrases and Do his own experiences
Mors has also proven they can be done with any blade in any grind. Thus it is 99% about skill, and 1% blades.
Point made: czcams.com/video/tsLXRSLv8V8/video.html
You need to get hands on Yakut knife
why do you wear kettle bells in your crouch?
áhu3r0 38h0qt bears
like bad panda bears in japan or what? Oo
áhu3r0 38h0qt
I wondered why Dr. Wako harvested so many deer, and googled hunting in Japan. It was reported that younger people rarely hunt in Japan, and the countryside, as well as farming areas, is overrun with deer and bears.
and probably also because they have the most fucked up weapon law in the world....
2nd....
Он нарисовал непонятный овал, и не смог обьяснить что это за каракули
Basically one survival knife must do everything. Do not walk with so many knives.
Convex is the best edge, and all i will ever use... I feather stick good enough with convex, and its superior in every other way...
Aldito Hernandez I like convex grinds BUT you lose a bit of that hair popping cut for making notches. It all depends on what you use your knives most for, scandivex for me is my favorite. It like to strop a micro bevel just enough to strengthen the edge but not on all my knives......Scandis are just to darn fun to use, gotta always have a true zero grind around.😁