In the RC Heli world, we often use Kyosho Zeal tape (or similar) under the gyro. It's one of the best things you can do to reduce the high frequency vibrations that can screw with your gyro.
The idea is actually to have gyro gain as high as possible without the car wobbling so the car is more stable as we can't react as quickly as the gyro can to movements since we have no forcefeedback on the controller. You should try softening the centering spring on your controller if possible, might make it easier to make micro adjustments mid drift since while countersteering the feedback for turning left and right is very different.
Maybe RWD drifting just isn’t for me then, the idea of turning the gyro “as high as possible” seems super lame to me. I don’t like gyros, it’s like cheating since the electronics are driving for you. 😹 that makes sense thought why it’s so hard to hold a long clean line without gyro! They guys doing those long line arnt actually driving, their gyros/controllers are 😹😹😹 I saw Kim Kim talking about how the 7PX can do the counter steering for you LOL! What’s the point of drifting if your electronics are doing all the work? 🤣🤦🏻♂️ I personally feel like the gyro shouldn’t be holding the line for you or doing any counter steering. I only want it to be there to help on transitions, that’s it, anything past that & I feel like I’m not drifting the car anymore. I’m thinking a better fit for my drifting style would be a GLA with a CS mod. I like AWD since power to the front tires makes it so you don’t need a gyro to maintain control.
BMR 3 it's not really the car driving for you to be honest, it's just an assist to help stabilize the car so that one can react to it better in a way. I don't know about the 7PX but even with the gyro up I still have to manually countersteer on both the DRZ and the GLD, without the gyro it's just insanely difficult to drift it without some sort of feedback since we can only use our eyes. When drifting in a real car, the wheel will tend to try steering in the direction of the drift, kind of like what the gyro does.
@@Auranapse A real car is a world of difference since your ass can feel the car sliding out from under you 😹plus real cars have serious weight that allows them to come back to center due to the crazy high grip. Micro RC has almost zero grip & thats the issue. What is your gyro set at? I need to get a better controller that can allow channel 3 adjustments, and maybe a better servo. I need to figure this RWD drifting thing out, I feel like im not doing it right & its causing me to fight the gyro LOL Maybe I should stop buying toys & save up to build a drift kart. My family is huge into 125CC shifter karts & I have been considering building one for drifting, but it would be quite expensive. Im still in my 20s & saving to buy a home, once I buy a home I can stop saving every penny & I can go wild with my hobbies LOL. Hopefully by next year I will be a homeowner & the channel can go WILD!
@@BMR3 Haha yea there's just so much more feedback that I would say it's easier in some cases to drift more consistantly XD. The gyro is actually supposed to work together with you, so if the car handles funny it could be the car setup. But if you're new without a baseline, its hard to gauge whether its the car or the driver :/. Basically I started with the HGD1 and only after going to the DRZ realised my setup wasn't as good as it was. For the gyros, on the DRZ I'm using like 35% and on the GLD 30%. Actually learning how to drift IRL would help a lot to understand the car dynamics and make it much easier to drift an RC drift car because the concept is the same, just scaled down. A drift kart sounds awesome and I would love one if I wasn't staying where I am. Haha can't wait to see what you do in the future :P
Wonderful brother, it is clear that now you start to enjoy drift driving, ah! if the sound looks perfect, fast and perfect! je je je, it's a joke you always talk fast! I love that brother car, a hug and take care of you !!
Lol i don’t mean to talk fast, I try to talk slow for videos 😹 but thank you for the kind words brother! Take care & a hug! I hope all is well with you & yours!
@@BMR3 I know brother it's just a little joke !! I like that car; It would be the first that we had to buy, and then update it and have fun, and not those times that we spent testing pieces of all the materials to our miniZ and watching CZcams videos how to do drifting and there was no way to give two drifts in a row !! then I say to Blitz, I have already seen how I mount his atomico, a hug brother, here everything is fine but the infections are rising!
Do it buddy! You will love this chassis! It takes ALOT of work compared to a mini-z but man it’s soooo worth it. This can drift easily in half the space a mini-z can 😸 I freaking love it!!! But to be honest it was a major PITA to get it to this point.
@@matthvids lol I haven’t touched them in weeks (aside from the video last week) but don’t get me wrong, I still love my mini-z. The reason I haven’t been using the mini-z is because they are AWD & I’m trying to learn RWD drifting for now. I’ll return to my Zs eventually 😸
From what I researched,the pot on the gyro is for angle adjustments,the third channel connection is for adjusting gain, I have not proven this yet, so,take it with a grain of salt. Lol
Hey BMR, super helpful videos. I'm doing my first build ever right now (DRZv2) and I realized it didn't come with a motor. So waiting a week after building it for that to come in I can't find a pinion gear, does the kit not come with one? What pinion should I get if I have to order one? Thank you so much
I think having the gyro 50% or above is must... it helps for long stable drift... with proper setup it will be better... can you even hold a slide without having to counter steer so much????
Nah I’ll keep the gyro setting as low as I can. Once I get a transmitter that will allow channel 3 adjustments I can fine tune it better but I want to keep it very low. I don’t like how it feels when the gyro is making adjustments, it feels like I’m fighting with the gyro half the time. It’s hard to hold a slide on my table since it’s so small, I need to get a bigger surface so I can test the chassis more fully. Maybe RWD drifting Isent for me, I hate gyros... I’m thinking a GLA V2 would be better suited for my drift style.
There is an issue with your build OR the gyro. First I would make sure all your linkages & arms are completely free & have no sticking points. Once you sure the build is flawless then look at your electronics & make sure the gyro is set to at least 30% Here is a video demonstrating how free your build should be: czcams.com/video/5h4RW43mzWY/video.html
Sounds better, might drift better on the floor instead of on a cabinet. Yiu might want to invest in a nice DLSR for your video instead of on your iPhone. Just a thought BMR.
Yeah that would be nice, but unfortunately the cabinet is the only suitable drift I have in the apartment. Once I get a home (I'm in the market but prices are insane in CA right now) I will build a full on dedicated drift track. a DLSR would be nice but I'm in full blow saving mode right now. Maybe in the not so near future ill get one, it would be super useful for videos where I show the cars sliding.
This motivated me to go finish up the GLD. i suspect my DRZv2 just became a shelf queen. a gyroless GLD was outperforming the DRZv2. as for gyros in general i had ch3 bound to a scroll wheel and got to play a bit, i typically had the gain at 2-3% as anything else on the hackslider made it feel al over the palce. how did moving the hackslider around change how the car responded? i suspect it may be accelerator based while my others are proper gyro and less sensitive to being placed elsewhere on the chassis
I recommend using the stock gyro, it’s a pretty good unit once you eliminate any vibration & give it a stable foundation. Why is your DRZ2 becoming a shelf queen? It’s a solid chassis, just needs a lot of attention & running to get the most out of it. What issues are you experiencing?
Nope don’t get the DRZ V1, the steering & knuckles have a bad design. The wheel base can extended but you have to buy separate chassis plates to change the wheel base & that’s a PITA. I high highly recommend saving up for a DRZv2 or try to find a V2 that’s used. I seen them for sale on Facebook all the time & if your persistent you can find a good deal. Good luck man!
@@BMR3 oh I want a 1/24 so I can have an easier time making it into a drift missile because I have a bunch of 1/24 model parts from models I've worked on.
Do you mean the chassis is not lifting off the ground or it’s too high up? You may need softer springs to reduce the height or add more preload to increase it. I always tune my ride height with spring tension.
@@nitzerebbs you need softer springs or you can add some weight to the front to help bring it down. Coins work fine or any small bits of metal. Just so you know I don’t use the ride height settings in the manual. I use around 3-3.5mm front ride height & around 2mm in the rear. Good luck with your build brother!
@@nitzerebbs also try backing the preload off the springs completely. I always run monoshocks on my DRZs & that makes it so you only have one front spring so it’s much softer & more sensitive.
The can be all adjusted. I’m not 100% sure what my settings are since I don’t have tools to measure, I have to eye ball it. But I went about -1 degree toe out, decreased the stock camber & the caster is set to max since I have rounded tires.
@@ManicQuinn do you have a DRZ2? There are small washers that act as spacers on the upper suspension arms. By adjusting the spacers placement, it will increase or decrease the amount of caster gain.
@@BMR3 I do not, I just commented on your latest video which explains my intentions in asking you this question. 😅 I've been thinking of ways to implement these alignment designs on my own project, thank you so much for replying
In the RC Heli world, we often use Kyosho Zeal tape (or similar) under the gyro. It's one of the best things you can do to reduce the high frequency vibrations that can screw with your gyro.
Sweetness my man, I was waiting for this segment, lot's of help,thanks.
Happy to help brother! How’s your build coming along?
The idea is actually to have gyro gain as high as possible without the car wobbling so the car is more stable as we can't react as quickly as the gyro can to movements since we have no forcefeedback on the controller. You should try softening the centering spring on your controller if possible, might make it easier to make micro adjustments mid drift since while countersteering the feedback for turning left and right is very different.
Maybe RWD drifting just isn’t for me then, the idea of turning the gyro “as high as possible” seems super lame to me. I don’t like gyros, it’s like cheating since the electronics are driving for you. 😹 that makes sense thought why it’s so hard to hold a long clean line without gyro! They guys doing those long line arnt actually driving, their gyros/controllers are 😹😹😹 I saw Kim Kim talking about how the 7PX can do the counter steering for you LOL! What’s the point of drifting if your electronics are doing all the work? 🤣🤦🏻♂️
I personally feel like the gyro shouldn’t be holding the line for you or doing any counter steering. I only want it to be there to help on transitions, that’s it, anything past that & I feel like I’m not drifting the car anymore.
I’m thinking a better fit for my drifting style would be a GLA with a CS mod. I like AWD since power to the front tires makes it so you don’t need a gyro to maintain control.
BMR 3 it's not really the car driving for you to be honest, it's just an assist to help stabilize the car so that one can react to it better in a way. I don't know about the 7PX but even with the gyro up I still have to manually countersteer on both the DRZ and the GLD, without the gyro it's just insanely difficult to drift it without some sort of feedback since we can only use our eyes. When drifting in a real car, the wheel will tend to try steering in the direction of the drift, kind of like what the gyro does.
@@Auranapse A real car is a world of difference since your ass can feel the car sliding out from under you 😹plus real cars have serious weight that allows them to come back to center due to the crazy high grip. Micro RC has almost zero grip & thats the issue.
What is your gyro set at? I need to get a better controller that can allow channel 3 adjustments, and maybe a better servo. I need to figure this RWD drifting thing out, I feel like im not doing it right & its causing me to fight the gyro LOL
Maybe I should stop buying toys & save up to build a drift kart. My family is huge into 125CC shifter karts & I have been considering building one for drifting, but it would be quite expensive. Im still in my 20s & saving to buy a home, once I buy a home I can stop saving every penny & I can go wild with my hobbies LOL. Hopefully by next year I will be a homeowner & the channel can go WILD!
@@BMR3 Haha yea there's just so much more feedback that I would say it's easier in some cases to drift more consistantly XD.
The gyro is actually supposed to work together with you, so if the car handles funny it could be the car setup. But if you're new without a baseline, its hard to gauge whether its the car or the driver :/. Basically I started with the HGD1 and only after going to the DRZ realised my setup wasn't as good as it was.
For the gyros, on the DRZ I'm using like 35% and on the GLD 30%.
Actually learning how to drift IRL would help a lot to understand the car dynamics and make it much easier to drift an RC drift car because the concept is the same, just scaled down. A drift kart sounds awesome and I would love one if I wasn't staying where I am. Haha can't wait to see what you do in the future :P
Wonderful brother, it is clear that now you start to enjoy drift driving, ah! if the sound looks perfect, fast and perfect! je je je, it's a joke you always talk fast! I love that brother car, a hug and take care of you !!
Lol i don’t mean to talk fast, I try to talk slow for videos 😹 but thank you for the kind words brother! Take care & a hug! I hope all is well with you & yours!
@@BMR3 I know brother it's just a little joke !! I like that car; It would be the first that we had to buy, and then update it and have fun, and not those times that we spent testing pieces of all the materials to our miniZ and watching CZcams videos how to do drifting and there was no way to give two drifts in a row !! then I say to Blitz, I have already seen how I mount his atomico, a hug brother, here everything is fine but the infections are rising!
Where'd you go bro 😢
Space the lower balls on shocks out and it really helps with binding
Elaborate? I have a decent ackerman but binding on the shock on the trailing wheel.
Stop those cool videos dude! You make me want to build a DRZ v2! 🤣
Do it buddy! You will love this chassis! It takes ALOT of work compared to a mini-z but man it’s soooo worth it. This can drift easily in half the space a mini-z can 😸 I freaking love it!!!
But to be honest it was a major PITA to get it to this point.
@@BMR3 I've seen kits for FWD micro RC and that would complete my collection perfectly.
Do you still use your Kyosho Zs?
@@matthvids lol I haven’t touched them in weeks (aside from the video last week) but don’t get me wrong, I still love my mini-z. The reason I haven’t been using the mini-z is because they are AWD & I’m trying to learn RWD drifting for now. I’ll return to my Zs eventually 😸
@@BMR3 I know what it is! I'm focusing in improving in slow turns on my RWDs and on my AWD.
From what I researched,the pot on the gyro is for angle adjustments,the third channel connection is for adjusting gain, I have not proven this yet, so,take it with a grain of salt. Lol
No it adjusts the amount of gyro gain if channel 3 is not plugged in, but it’s not very precise unfortunately
Hey BMR, super helpful videos. I'm doing my first build ever right now (DRZv2) and I realized it didn't come with a motor. So waiting a week after building it for that to come in I can't find a pinion gear, does the kit not come with one? What pinion should I get if I have to order one? Thank you so much
what are the adapter plugs you are using to connect to your reciever? sorry for the newbe questions but im tring to learn
E flight makes some jst adapter
I think having the gyro 50% or above is must... it helps for long stable drift... with proper setup it will be better... can you even hold a slide without having to counter steer so much????
Nah I’ll keep the gyro setting as low as I can. Once I get a transmitter that will allow channel 3 adjustments I can fine tune it better but I want to keep it very low. I don’t like how it feels when the gyro is making adjustments, it feels like I’m fighting with the gyro half the time. It’s hard to hold a slide on my table since it’s so small, I need to get a bigger surface so I can test the chassis more fully.
Maybe RWD drifting Isent for me, I hate gyros... I’m thinking a GLA V2 would be better suited for my drift style.
why do i just keep doing fast mini circles? did i build it wrong or is it settings in my nb4?
There is an issue with your build OR the gyro. First I would make sure all your linkages & arms are completely free & have no sticking points. Once you sure the build is flawless then look at your electronics & make sure the gyro is set to at least 30%
Here is a video demonstrating how free your build should be: czcams.com/video/5h4RW43mzWY/video.html
Sounds better, might drift better on the floor instead of on a cabinet. Yiu might want to invest in a nice DLSR for your video instead of on your iPhone. Just a thought BMR.
Yeah that would be nice, but unfortunately the cabinet is the only suitable drift I have in the apartment. Once I get a home (I'm in the market but prices are insane in CA right now) I will build a full on dedicated drift track.
a DLSR would be nice but I'm in full blow saving mode right now. Maybe in the not so near future ill get one, it would be super useful for videos where I show the cars sliding.
This motivated me to go finish up the GLD. i suspect my DRZv2 just became a shelf queen. a gyroless GLD was outperforming the DRZv2.
as for gyros in general i had ch3 bound to a scroll wheel and got to play a bit, i typically had the gain at 2-3% as anything else on the hackslider made it feel al over the palce. how did moving the hackslider around change how the car responded? i suspect it may be accelerator based while my others are proper gyro and less sensitive to being placed elsewhere on the chassis
I recommend using the stock gyro, it’s a pretty good unit once you eliminate any vibration & give it a stable foundation.
Why is your DRZ2 becoming a shelf queen? It’s a solid chassis, just needs a lot of attention & running to get the most out of it. What issues are you experiencing?
If I was on a budget would the V1 still be a good option? Also is the wheel base extendable for 1/24 bodies?
Nope don’t get the DRZ V1, the steering & knuckles have a bad design. The wheel base can extended but you have to buy separate chassis plates to change the wheel base & that’s a PITA.
I high highly recommend saving up for a DRZv2 or try to find a V2 that’s used. I seen them for sale on Facebook all the time & if your persistent you can find a good deal.
Good luck man!
@@BMR3 thanks! I'm looking for something with 100mm wheelbase for an ae86 body
@@Nesrak there is a AE86 autoscale body by Kyosho that’s only 90mm wheel base
@@BMR3 oh I want a 1/24 so I can have an easier time making it into a drift missile because I have a bunch of 1/24 model parts from models I've worked on.
Hi, how did you set up the front height ? I have no possibility for any changes...
Do you mean the chassis is not lifting off the ground or it’s too high up? You may need softer springs to reduce the height or add more preload to increase it.
I always tune my ride height with spring tension.
@@BMR3 Yes, it's to high, about 8mm, far away from 2mm as mentioned in the manual 😬
@@nitzerebbs you need softer springs or you can add some weight to the front to help bring it down. Coins work fine or any small bits of metal.
Just so you know I don’t use the ride height settings in the manual. I use around 3-3.5mm front ride height & around 2mm in the rear.
Good luck with your build brother!
@@nitzerebbs also try backing the preload off the springs completely.
I always run monoshocks on my DRZs & that makes it so you only have one front spring so it’s much softer & more sensitive.
@@BMR3 Can you give me links of softer springs for non-monoshock ? Thank you so much
Hey man, what kind of alignment options do you have for this car? Toe, caster and camber?
The can be all adjusted. I’m not 100% sure what my settings are since I don’t have tools to measure, I have to eye ball it. But I went about -1 degree toe out, decreased the stock camber & the caster is set to max since I have rounded tires.
@@BMR3 I wish I could see how you would adjust caster from your videos ;u;
@@ManicQuinn do you have a DRZ2? There are small washers that act as spacers on the upper suspension arms. By adjusting the spacers placement, it will increase or decrease the amount of caster gain.
@@BMR3 I do not, I just commented on your latest video which explains my intentions in asking you this question. 😅
I've been thinking of ways to implement these alignment designs on my own project, thank you so much for replying
@@ManicQuinn I’m happy to help try and answer any questions you have 👍🏼😸