you are truly number 1!! both for the excellent work carried out and for publishing this fundamental video for all of us who love to do the work independently. Thanks from Italy
Wow, thanks so much for posting this. Hard enough to change the oil, way harder to try to film and get all the lighting and processes right, so thanks for going to all the trouble. Has to be said, Kathy steals the show! What a smiling face, keep your lupin blue RS (like mine) but more important, keep her! Any video you do, she needs a cameo!
Thanks for posting! I think this is the first 'fork oil change' for the R1200RS that I have seen. I've had the same bike (Lupin of course 😉) for just over 4 years and at 18,000 I had it done with the dealer service (big £££/$$$'s). Next time, I'll follow your guide. Cheers mate.
Excellent guide and nicely documented. Did mine 20k kms ago and will be doing it again at 60k kms. Only thing I can add is to avoid any scratches on the gold forks you can lightly pry the lower triple clamps with a screw driver so the tubes can slide through without friction and potentially scratching them.
Thanks a lot for posting this video. Thanks to it I was able to change seals of a BMW S1000XR and make money of it! I owe you a beer! (Or maybe a 6 pack?). Best regards from Mexico City. Mario.
Great video man! I see you have your r1200rs for some time now. Would you maybe do video on long term review of r1200rs? Keep doing great work, really enjoy your videos! Greetings from Europe
Great video and following each step to complete the fork oil change on my 2016 RS. Started with the left fork (ESA) but have come across some discrepancies between the oil quantity in this fork and the specs I have. My specs call for a 65mm air gap in the ESA fork and a volume of 304ml. I added 304ml (using a calibrated beaker) of oil it was way too much. It would spill over the top of the tube. I measured the oil I had drained from the fork to get a reference and it was about 150ml. I then drained the 304ml I had added in the calibrated beaker and it measured around 300ml. I did this to verify that I was draining all the oil out. I then added 155ml of oil and measured the air gap, which read 65mm. The volume added corresponds to the volume drained and ties in with the 65mm air gap. On the ESA fork in your video you only mention setting the oil level to 65mm air gap, no comments on volume. Is the ESA volume spec I have incorrect and should I just go by the 65mm air gap? Have not done the right fork but the spec I have is 682ml of oil and an air gap of 82mm. Appreciate any comments/guidance. Thanks.
The volumes and air gap distances you list are correct. The ESA fork take less oil because the cartridge is sealed and, therefore, no oil is needed to refill it. Why the volumes listed are so specific is a mystery to me because you will still end up drawing some oil off when you set the air gap. Once each fork is properly drained and purged of air after refilling, they should be able to accept the specified amount of fork oil. Ultimately, the air gap is the most important measurement. On the ESA fork make sure you stroke the inner and outer fork tubes about 4-5 inches while the fork is inverted. This will allow any oil that is below an internal baffle to drain out. Then, upon refilling, do the same thing while the fork is upright. The ESA fork should be able to take 300 mils of oil if properly drained and purged (see 19:25 minutes into the video). The right fork is a bit different because you pump the oil that is in the cartridge after draining the outer tube. That why its volume is greater because you have to refill the cartridge as well as the fork tube. Hope this helps.
@@bakingbiker Thank you for your response. I did follow the purging steps outlined in your video for both forks.The right fork worked out to spec, taking 650+ ml of oil and with an air gap of 82mm. The ESA was a different story. After purging, I added 304ml of oil and the level reached the top of the fork tube! If I added the sprigs etc. it would have spilled over. I repeated the drain and purge and was able to collect around 300ml of the 304 I had put in. I decided to repeat the process , but this time adding oil until I reached an air gap of 65mm. I let it sit overnight (as it was late evening and wanted to wrap up for the day) and verified the air gap the next morning. Next morning I had to add more oil to make up the 65mm gap. Again , I let it sit for a while , remeasured the gap, verified that it was still 65mm and wrapped it up. At this stage I do not know the total volume that I added in setting up the 65mm air gap.But I know it was more than my first attempt. Took the bike out for a test ride and all feels good. So I'm going to go with it , unless something develops. Thank you for the great video.
Great video, getting ready to do it myself. One question. What is the OD of points on your spring compression tool, or ID of holes in the spacer. Would like to fab the tool ahead of time. Thanks.
The OD of the circular base of the spring compressor is - 76mm The ID of the circular base of the spring compressor is - 65mm The handles that screws into the circular base is - 12mm in diameter. The OD of the point is tapered and is 8mm down to 5mm. The cartridge rod older that goes underneath the nut to hold the spacer down the slot at one end 13mm wide, and the slot at the other end is 17mm wide. I hope this helps.
Nice video and thank you for recording it. There are not a lot of diy videos of changing fork oil for a bmw. One question I have is, Is it really necessary to take the locking nut hidden beneath the spacer out? Seems like I’ll still be able to change the oil even without it. What do you think?
It’s not necessary, but it’s easier to pump the oil out of the cartridge if you remove the lock nut. And that’s only in the right fork. I hope this answers your question.
Great video, Thank you for very detailed explanation! I have the same bike and I'm considering to change the oil in my forks too. I bought my bike second hand with 4.000 miles on it and I have never noticed any difference between "road" and "dynamic" suspension mode on front forks ... regardless the road surface or breaking both modes feel absolutely the same. Computer shows no error codes, rear ESA works perfect. Maybe my understanding of these two settings is wrong, but I assume that "road" mode should be more comfortable and the "dynamic" mode a little bit stiffer, right? Do you think changing the oil might improve that? What is your experience on these two modes? (my bike currently has 14 thousand miles on it) Greetings from EU!
No matter what the fork oil does need to be changed at least every 18,000 miles. Not sure if you'll feel a big difference between the 2 modes if you don't already. I feel a difference in the rear shock between the "road" and the "dynamic" setting. Since I changed the rear shock, the difference is more subtle now. Thank you!
Спасибо за ваше видео! Мне заменили масло на сервисе и вилка стала очень жёсткой... Мне залили масло с вязкостью 7,5W. Заметил что вы использовали 10W, такое требование в инструкции? У вас очень милый и весёлый помощник ;-) Привет из Киева. ________ Thanks for your video! I had the oil changed at the service and the fork became very stiff ... I was filled with oil with a viscosity of 7.5W. I noticed that you used 10W, is this a requirement in the instructions? You have a very nice and cheerful assistant ;-) Greetings from Kiev.
Yes, BMW specifies 10W fork oil, which typically has a higher viscosity than 7.5W fork oil. I'm not sure what made the fork feel stiff, but maybe because you used a different brand of fork oil. Sorry I couldn't become more helpful.
I don't know the name of the cable, but it's part of the left fork dampening rod. As far as I know you can't purchase the cable separately. Ask a suspension tech like Ted Porter's Beemer Shop at: www.beemershop.com. Or call you local BMW dealer/shop. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.
Im doing this on my 1000xr, never notice how hard my forks are before starting the bike, is this the same with anyone else or have a done something wrong? once i start the bike they are ok and move freely
Yes, that's typical from my experience. The electronic suspension has to be energized to move freely, so the ignition has to be on and the motorcycle running. I hope this helps.
Thank you for the clarification. The Motorcycle Fork Spring Compressor Kit with the slotted "spacer" is not a BMW tool. I bought it from Amazon: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P8JQH78/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I hope this helps.
you are truly number 1!! both for the excellent work carried out and for publishing this fundamental video for all of us who love to do the work independently. Thanks from Italy
Thank you!
Wow, thanks so much for posting this. Hard enough to change the oil, way harder to try to film and get all the lighting and processes right, so thanks for going to all the trouble. Has to be said, Kathy steals the show! What a smiling face, keep your lupin blue RS (like mine) but more important, keep her! Any video you do, she needs a cameo!
🤣🤣🤣
Thanks for posting! I think this is the first 'fork oil change' for the R1200RS that I have seen. I've had the same bike (Lupin of course 😉) for just over 4 years and at 18,000 I had it done with the dealer service (big £££/$$$'s). Next time, I'll follow your guide. Cheers mate.
Thank you. Cheers!
Kathy is the Goat , shes a keeper. Im gona use this video to do my s1000rr forks next summer thanks im at 16000, 2010
Thank you VERY much for the tutorial! Very clear! Some day i will do the same to my S1000R.
Cheers from Neuquén, Argentina!
Glad it was helpful! Keep on riding!
excellent work, very good video and magnificent explanation thank you very much, it was very helpful.
Excellent guide and nicely documented.
Did mine 20k kms ago and will be doing it again at 60k kms. Only thing I can add is to avoid any scratches on the gold forks you can lightly pry the lower triple clamps with a screw driver so the tubes can slide through without friction and potentially scratching them.
Glad you like the video. Thank you for the tip.
Thanks a lot for posting this video.
Thanks to it I was able to change seals of a BMW S1000XR and make money of it!
I owe you a beer! (Or maybe a 6 pack?).
Best regards from Mexico City.
Mario.
Glad it helped. Thank you!
Thank you very much for your explaination
Thanks for sharing, it's been helpful, I have the XR apart from the oil depths the forks are the same👍🏻
Glad it helped.
Great video man! I see you have your r1200rs for some time now. Would you maybe do video on long term review of r1200rs? Keep doing great work, really enjoy your videos! Greetings from Europe
That's a good suggestion. Thank you! Keep on riding.
Thank you for this!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video and following each step to complete the fork oil change on my 2016 RS. Started with the left fork (ESA) but have come across
some discrepancies between the oil quantity in this fork and the specs I have. My specs call for a 65mm air gap in the ESA fork and a volume of 304ml. I added 304ml (using a calibrated beaker) of oil it was way too much. It would spill over the top of the tube. I measured the oil I had drained from the fork to get a reference and it was about 150ml. I then drained the 304ml I had added in the calibrated beaker and it measured around 300ml. I did this to verify that I was draining all the oil out. I then added 155ml of oil and measured the air gap, which read 65mm. The volume added corresponds to the volume drained and ties in with the 65mm air gap. On the ESA fork in your video you only mention setting the oil level to 65mm air gap, no comments on volume. Is the ESA volume spec I have incorrect and should I just go by the 65mm air gap? Have not done the right fork but the spec I have is 682ml of oil and an air gap of 82mm. Appreciate any comments/guidance. Thanks.
The volumes and air gap distances you list are correct. The ESA fork take less oil because the cartridge is sealed and, therefore, no oil is needed to refill it. Why the volumes listed are so specific is a mystery to me because you will still end up drawing some oil off when you set the air gap. Once each fork is properly drained and purged of air after refilling, they should be able to accept the specified amount of fork oil. Ultimately, the air gap is the most important measurement.
On the ESA fork make sure you stroke the inner and outer fork tubes about 4-5 inches while the fork is inverted. This will allow any oil that is below an internal baffle to drain out. Then, upon refilling, do the same thing while the fork is upright. The ESA fork should be able to take 300 mils of oil if properly drained and purged (see 19:25 minutes into the video).
The right fork is a bit different because you pump the oil that is in the cartridge after draining the outer tube. That why its volume is greater because you have to refill the cartridge as well as the fork tube.
Hope this helps.
@@bakingbiker Thank you for your response. I did follow the purging steps outlined in your video for both forks.The right fork worked out to spec, taking 650+ ml of oil and with an air gap of 82mm. The ESA was a different story. After purging, I added 304ml of oil and the level reached the top of the fork tube! If I added the sprigs etc. it would have spilled over. I repeated the drain and purge and was able to collect around 300ml of the 304 I had put in. I decided to repeat the process , but this time adding oil until I reached an air gap of 65mm. I let it sit overnight (as it was late evening and wanted to wrap up for the day) and verified the air gap the next morning. Next morning I had to add more oil to make up the 65mm gap. Again , I let it sit for a while , remeasured the gap, verified that it was still 65mm and wrapped it up. At this stage I do not know the total volume that I added in setting up the 65mm air gap.But I know it was more than my first attempt. Took the bike out for a test ride and all feels good. So I'm going to go with it , unless something develops. Thank you for the great video.
Great video, getting ready to do it myself. One question. What is the OD of points on your spring compression tool, or ID of holes in the spacer. Would like to fab the tool ahead of time. Thanks.
The OD of the circular base of the spring compressor is - 76mm
The ID of the circular base of the spring compressor is - 65mm
The handles that screws into the circular base is - 12mm in diameter. The OD of the point is tapered and is 8mm down to 5mm.
The cartridge rod older that goes underneath the nut to hold the spacer down the slot at one end 13mm wide, and the slot at the other end is 17mm wide.
I hope this helps.
@@bakingbiker Thak you.
Nice video and thank you for recording it. There are not a lot of diy videos of changing fork oil for a bmw. One question I have is, Is it really necessary to take the locking nut hidden beneath the spacer out? Seems like I’ll still be able to change the oil even without it. What do you think?
It’s not necessary, but it’s easier to pump the oil out of the cartridge if you remove the lock nut. And that’s only in the right fork. I hope this answers your question.
Great video, Thank you for very detailed explanation! I have the same bike and I'm considering to change the oil in my forks too. I bought my bike second hand with 4.000 miles on it and I have never noticed any difference between "road" and "dynamic" suspension mode on front forks ... regardless the road surface or breaking both modes feel absolutely the same. Computer shows no error codes, rear ESA works perfect. Maybe my understanding of these two settings is wrong, but I assume that "road" mode should be more comfortable and the "dynamic" mode a little bit stiffer, right? Do you think changing the oil might improve that? What is your experience on these two modes? (my bike currently has 14 thousand miles on it) Greetings from EU!
No matter what the fork oil does need to be changed at least every 18,000 miles. Not sure if you'll feel a big difference between the 2 modes if you don't already. I feel a difference in the rear shock between the "road" and the "dynamic" setting. Since I changed the rear shock, the difference is more subtle now. Thank you!
My R model is going to need this at the next service... about how long does the process take you from start to finish (without filming of course)?
My husband has only done it twice, so about a half a day.
Спасибо за ваше видео! Мне заменили масло на сервисе и вилка стала очень жёсткой... Мне залили масло с вязкостью 7,5W. Заметил что вы использовали 10W, такое требование в инструкции?
У вас очень милый и весёлый помощник ;-) Привет из Киева.
________
Thanks for your video! I had the oil changed at the service and the fork became very stiff ... I was filled with oil with a viscosity of 7.5W. I noticed that you used 10W, is this a requirement in the instructions?
You have a very nice and cheerful assistant ;-) Greetings from Kiev.
Yes, BMW specifies 10W fork oil, which typically has a higher viscosity than 7.5W fork oil. I'm not sure what made the fork feel stiff, but maybe because you used a different brand of fork oil. Sorry I couldn't become more helpful.
hey! I didn't understand very well. How much fork oil wears the electronic telescopic, por favor?
According to the manual, the left fork with the electronic cartridge takes 304 ml and the right fork takes 682 ml of 10W fork oil.
Hi BB.
Quick question what's the cable @7:03 that goes into the left fork called?
I need to order that part.
I don't know the name of the cable, but it's part of the left fork dampening rod. As far as I know you can't purchase the cable separately. Ask a suspension tech like Ted Porter's Beemer Shop at: www.beemershop.com. Or call you local BMW dealer/shop. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.
@@bakingbiker Understood! Much appreciated mate! Have a good one!
Im doing this on my 1000xr, never notice how hard my forks are before starting the bike, is this the same with anyone else or have a done something wrong? once i start the bike they are ok and move freely
Yes, that's typical from my experience. The electronic suspension has to be energized to move freely, so the ignition has to be on and the motorcycle running. I hope this helps.
@@bakingbiker that's brilliant thanks for the help, bit more ar ease now 😀
Where did you get the special tools?
A motorcycle fork spring compressor kit universal from hundredproof on Amazon Marketplace.
@@bakingbiker Thank you
Hello fellow biker. Do you have the number of the bmw tools for the suspension?
I didn’t use any tools from BMW. Are you asking about Ted Porter’s Beemer Shop where I bought the shock from?
@@bakingbiker I asked about the metal sheet. But I have read in Hayes that is simply a 14mm slot.
Thank you for the clarification. The Motorcycle Fork Spring Compressor Kit with the slotted "spacer" is not a BMW tool. I bought it from Amazon: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P8JQH78/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I hope this helps.
can i ask what service manual you used
I used both the BMW and Haynes Manuals, but mostly the Haynes.
@@bakingbiker 👍
😲
Can i use vegetable oil instead of fork oil...😀🥩
Ha ha, uh NO!! :-)