Couple of pointers I have learned. Get a professional printer to do your printing. You deserve quality. Use a spray can of non water based adhesive. Try ordinary white glue to see why you don't want to use water based glue. Get your print outs done on card stock if you can, but paper will do. Use foam core board if you can. Don't use Bristol board, it just isn't thick enough. If you use a foam core board, you want a nice sharp box cutter type knife. Use a steel ruler if you plan to cut long straight edges. Foam core board can be a bit thick, I have found once the counters are made, you can hammer them a lot flatter without harming the counters really. You end up with something a bit thicker than conventional wargame pieces. Optional, if you clue 3 layers of Bristol board together you get a very durable counter density, but it takes some effort to cut through (not a good idea for massive sums of counters is my guess.
A little tip for all who make counters from at home printing like shown here, After mounting on what ever you use, Spray with a Flat, Or Dull Lacquer, ( I use Testers DullCote) But others brands will work also. The spray applied in 2 light coats on both sides Really brings out the colors from printing, makes the tiles a tad water- resistant, and the colors won't smear or fade. CAUTION- Do Not Use A Lacquer type spray on foamboard as it will attack the foam. Try a experiment, I think you will like the results. I do this all the time for making my own decals for Radio Control Aircraft.
I've got access to an old paper guillotine in work and that is great for making counters. I also use full page labels and have even become quite proficient at making double sided ones too.
Interesting and cheap! II buy a magnet adhesive sheet (A4), for 1 euro, where I stick a simple sheet of paper, with the counters impressed. You have a cheap magnetic counter. I put another magnet sheet (not necessarily adhesive) behind the scenario page and the counters don't move.
You should have been on Blue Peter with this. And you should also mention that folks really ought to get permission from their parents before using the scissors 😂
Haha, so it is! I was looking at the Lone Sherman countersheet, which I have just downloaded today to go with my Lone Sherman game. Along with the 12 scenario maps. Looks like it's going to be a lot of fun!
Good idea. I have been using post-its, which is wildly inefficient, but then we have like a few hundred billion of nearly empty pads laying around, so efficient is not the main concern. I just can't bring myself to mark in the books with pencil.
Arts and crafts - the fun of gaming. A printer, some artwork I customized, some glue (Elmer's glue-all or basic school glue works fine) and a few hours later and I had hundreds of cardboard standees for role-playing games. Too many to keep up with almost. Thin cardboard from cereal and food boxes, or boxes make it cheap. I make up my own custom dice to explore odd things - print the numbers or letter or pips, cut them out (hole punches from craft shops help make nice need looking round "stickers".
Couple of pointers I have learned. Get a professional printer to do your printing. You deserve quality. Use a spray can of non water based adhesive. Try ordinary white glue to see why you don't want to use water based glue. Get your print outs done on card stock if you can, but paper will do. Use foam core board if you can. Don't use Bristol board, it just isn't thick enough. If you use a foam core board, you want a nice sharp box cutter type knife. Use a steel ruler if you plan to cut long straight edges. Foam core board can be a bit thick, I have found once the counters are made, you can hammer them a lot flatter without harming the counters really. You end up with something a bit thicker than conventional wargame pieces. Optional, if you clue 3 layers of Bristol board together you get a very durable counter density, but it takes some effort to cut through (not a good idea for massive sums of counters is my guess.
A little tip for all who make counters from at home printing like shown here, After mounting on what ever you use, Spray with a Flat, Or Dull Lacquer, ( I use Testers DullCote) But others brands will work also. The spray applied in 2 light coats on both sides Really brings out the colors from printing, makes the tiles a tad water- resistant, and the colors won't smear or fade. CAUTION- Do Not Use A Lacquer type spray on foamboard as it will attack the foam. Try a experiment, I think you will like the results. I do this all the time for making my own decals for Radio Control Aircraft.
I've got access to an old paper guillotine in work and that is great for making counters. I also use full page labels and have even become quite proficient at making double sided ones too.
Interesting and cheap!
II buy a magnet adhesive sheet (A4), for 1 euro, where I stick a simple sheet of paper, with the counters impressed.
You have a cheap magnetic counter.
I put another magnet sheet (not necessarily adhesive) behind the scenario page and the counters don't move.
Great idea!
You should have been on Blue Peter with this. And you should also mention that folks really ought to get permission from their parents before using the scissors 😂
😆 To be fair, a parental supervision warning is present on the counter sheet itself!!!
Haha, so it is! I was looking at the Lone Sherman countersheet, which I have just downloaded today to go with my Lone Sherman game. Along with the 12 scenario maps. Looks like it's going to be a lot of fun!
Good idea. I have been using post-its, which is wildly inefficient, but then we have like a few hundred billion of nearly empty pads laying around, so efficient is not the main concern. I just can't bring myself to mark in the books with pencil.
I'm not sure many people can to be fair. Most seem to use counters of some kind or at least copy before marking the pages. Flexibility is the key!
@@mikelambosolitairebookgames I get it. I like the idea of cardstock etc so I can take them on trips, and they will last longer in general.
Arts and crafts - the fun of gaming. A printer, some artwork I customized, some glue (Elmer's glue-all or basic school glue works fine) and a few hours later and I had hundreds of cardboard standees for role-playing games. Too many to keep up with almost. Thin cardboard from cereal and food boxes, or boxes make it cheap. I make up my own custom dice to explore odd things - print the numbers or letter or pips, cut them out (hole punches from craft shops help make nice need looking round "stickers".
*looks for clues as to what this new game is!* Sgt stripes, pin markers. Oh yes! Count me in, Mike! Thanks for the video
I never considered A4 label paper, thanks!
It works an absolute treat. Highly recommend it.