Install, Upgrade Wifi Smart Thermostat that needs a C wire. W/ Product Links
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- čas přidán 22. 08. 2024
- How I solved my no C wire problem when installing a Honeywell Wifi thermostat.
Model #RTH9585WF1004/U
supplies needed;
thermostat, www.lowes.com/...
extra transformer, www.amazon.com...
wire, www.lowes.com/...
terminal wire connector, www.lowes.com/...
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Thanks for the video, I thought I was screwed when I bought my thermostat and my new boiler only brought 2 cables. I was able to follow your steps and got it to work thank you so much!!
Great job! I have been wondering how the heck that I could finger out on the furnace side to provide the infamous "c-wire", which does not exist on my old furnace nor has it a wiring terminal (no labeling of any kind). Instructions of Smart Thermostat only says that your installation needs a c-wire. Dah! Most of the CZcams videos tells you how to make use of your G-wire as your C-wire (not helping if your circuit only has 2 wires - Red and White). Your colored diagram helped the most. Now I know exactly what to do to make the Smart Thermostat of any choice to work. Just by adding new wires or redo the wiring to the thermostat, it will work. Adding another 24Vac is not a problem. Thanks so much! You are better than a lot of those CZcamsr on the topic of c-wire.
thanks for the words. Remember it's VAC transformer you need. Good luck!
good job...but change your title .....install a 2 wire Boiler for a Smart thermostat..or just go buy a LUX two wire battery or old model Nest...and one more thing ...to be easier...buy a 24VAC plug in adapter.
I’m planning to upgrade my 2 units home all battery run thermostats to smart thermostats. My is 2 wires also R n W. You place a screw driver tied to the 2 wires on the video but didn’t show the feeding of the new 4 wires. Later you hook up the system plate already with new wires connected. I’m correct I need to feed new 4 wires to replace the 2 one
Thank you. I like the interrupted clips 😀
Not bad. Snaking that wire harness is not doable for my home. I think the title drew me to your video. I went out an bought the same thermostat about 18 months ago. Im going to go for the Plug in transformer for a C wire supply and be done with it. Great work, you’re a very smart and industrious person.
Cookefan59 thanks for the comment. Be sure the plug in is AC output. good luck with the project
Someday I'll get my husband to come into the future...not 32 years in the way-back machine. LOL! Thank you for posting this. Got to have the disclaimers because there are idiots out there. And your frame is PERFECT!
Very helpful! I was having a hard time figuring it out after I see your explanation it became very clear Thank you!
Thanks for that. I’m sure your husband will be great. Keep an eye out for rebates. I basically got this for free with national grid Rhode Island
i wish mine was this easy.
great job and very helpful!!!!!
Thank you Sir!
It did help…….thanks
very useful video, thanks.
Wondering if a C wire will power 2 different thermostats. Guess I need a separate thermostat to operate my 2 wire furnace or use a (relay on the back up heat terminals on the thermostat that operates the heat pump)?
Thank you. I just did it. Thank u 🙏🏻
Great job!!!!!
Hi I connected a smart thermostat to my boiler and I installed a 24v transformer upstairs and connected it to the thermostat so I had rh rc w and c the rh and w were original and the rc and c were from my transformer but like 3 months ago when I installed this I forgot to cut the jumper in my thermostat was an Emerson Sensi so I didn’t know there was an in built jumper but regardless my boiler turns on when I turn on the heat and cycles every hour or so. With this idk if I should remove the jumper now or just leave it
Power went out at the cabin for over 2 days and the wifi thermostadt is off. Anyone know how to hook up some kind of backup power so it at least keeps the furnace at the set temp? If I was there I would hook up our portable generator.
Thanks a lot
The control Board of the furnace shows a C terminal but there is no wire connected to the existing Honeywell thermostat which has no C terminal. The R terminal of the furnace has 2 wires connected to the thermostat , one connects to the RC of the thermostat and the other connects to the R of the existing thermostat. The W, Y, and G terminals of the furnace are connected to the W, Y, and G terminals of the thermostat. The C of the furnace connects to the terminal of a Relay contactor.
I bought a MOES smart wifi thermostat for the furnace and AC that requires de C cable. The Diagram of the thermostat requires a jumper from RC to Rh. The Diagram also shows the terminals W,Y, and G to be connected to the furnace and I should not have any problem with that.
I am planning to connect the R terminal of the Furnace to the RC terminal of the thermostat with a jumper from RC to Rh. Remove the other connection that goes from R of the furnace to the Rh of the thermostat and use this cable to connect the C from the furnace to the C of the thermostat and would keep the existing connection from the C of the furnace going to the terminal of the Relay also located at the furnace. Do you think that this new wiring could work?
Note: there is only one transformer at the Furnace
Let me start with I’m not a professional and my opinion is just that. But I couldn’t make mine work without removing the jumper and adding the seperate 2 wires not only the one. Because it needs it’s own power source. Like I said not a professional. Good luck.
@@Livelarge86 Thank You Livelarge96 for your early reply. I guess Electronics , in some situations, are difficult to understand. The old thermostat, the same as the new smart one, calls for the jumper between Rh and RC and yet, the professional that installed the furnace and thermostat did not use the Jumper. Perhaps he did not use the Diagram indicated in the furnace because he installed a new switch to start the fan furnace mannualy when the furnace is not firing, he did that before I bought the house and I guess the reason he did that is because the old owner ask his services because the furnace was getting old and has to work for much of a long period to get enough heat and unfortunately then the furnace overheated and triggered a safety device that stopped the furnace. In order to activate the switch properly, he took the power from the C terminal and rearranged the cables for going to the thermostat.
I guess I have to go to another professional because I do not have faith of his work on the furnace and I tell you why:
Last year, in the middle of the cold days in Canada I was already living in this house and the furnace quit working because the furnace overheated and triggered the safety device causing the furnace to stop. Once the safety device is triggered, the furnace will not start again until about 3 hours later and of course the house gets pretty cold.
I called the same professional and he told me that because the furnace overheated he had previously installed a new grille right at the exit of the furnace to relieve heat of the furnace. So he went to the furnace and opened the grille 100% and after doing some maintenance work on the furnace he left after paying him for the service.
Next day, the bad cold espelt was still on, and again the furnace stopped working. Then I realized that the furnace stopped working at approximately the same hour. I looked at the program setting realizing that furnace was set at 19 Celsius at night and 21 Celsius at 6 AM in the morning, so it means that in the morning the furnace not only has to fire to keep firing for the heat losses but also to raise the temperature of the house by 2 C causing the furnace to overheat, knowing that, the solution was simple.: instead of having the furnace increase 2 Celsius in one shot, I programmed the thermostat to increase the temperature from 19 to 20 Celsius at 5 AM and then at 7 AM to have the thermostat set at 21 Celsius. At 11 PM, the thermostat is set at 19 Celsius. This way the Furnace has 2 hours to reach the wanted temperature and it does not overheat. Since the day I reprogrammed the thermostat I did not have any trouble with the furnace and of course, I closed 100% the grille at the outlet of the furnace to avoid waste of heat.
Honestly, I have to say that I should buy a new furnace but right now I can not spend CAD 4000 for a new one ( I am a retired person), I hope that way it can last at least a couple of years more. The reason I bought a new smart thermostat is try to help the furnace work easier for a few more years, and when I will buy a new furnace I will be able to reuse the new smart thermostat anyway but of course, I need to have the right wiring to avoid destroying the electronics of the furnace and thermostat
This can be connected with 3 wires with jumper plugged in
Hey that Black wire would work great without that c wire buddy that's your 24 volts constantly so you don't need to do all the other crap
According to your diagram, I'm wondering if I can use boiler transformer to power thermostat instead of buying a secondary transformer. I will wire C terminal from boiler transformer to C terminal on thermostat, and R terminal from boiler transformer to Rc terminal on thermostat. Will this work?
No, he explained at the middle of this video. He made mistake. left the jumper between R and Rc. Entire thermostar shut down when the central heat is off. So we will need 2 separate 24 VAC sources
How did you bring wires from basement to upstairs room ?
I had the benefit of fish tape and seeing where the existing wires were. You could also use the old wires and tie the new ones and pull. Good luck with your project
Lol
Too complicated. Good job though.
A seriously painful watch. I couldn’t even finish the video, I’ll look elsewhere. 😴😴
You talk too much