I just finished installing a chrome master/booster kit from Speedway on my 55' Chevrolet. This was a challenge but I've got it working. I hope this info helps you guys. The Master cylinder I received required a 1 1/2" spacer inside the rear of the master. This did not come in the kit and I couldn't find it locally. I made the spacer from a bolt and center drilled it enough for the pushrod to stay centered. The next step was to adjust the booster pushrod to a 1/16" gap. There is a very good tool for this adjustment. It is in the form of an 'H' with a pin running thru the center. They can be easily sourced. The master cylinder has 4 ports. The kit came with plugs. I couldn't get them to seal. To cure this problem I drilled the caps 1/2 way thru with a 3/16 bit. I made double flare inserts with copper clad line then reinstalled the plugs. The copper clad line is soft and does a good job here. Make sure to use 11/32 vacuum hose, not 3/8 fuel line for the booster. The wheel studs in the kit are long enough for steel wheels but were a bit short to work with my Cragars. My tie rods had enough range to readjust toe-in to spec.
I am using what looks like the same combination in my 1959 Ford Fairlane. I put a piece of plumber's putty in the recess in the insert in the master cylinder, and it looked like there was good clearance, but I noticed that the master cylinder would spring back from the booster. This told me that there was no clearance wherever it was touching. I looked at the putty, and there were little lines in it made by the points on the hex head adjusting spud or bolt. I looked at the same part in another booster from a kit, and it was a higher and steeper dome. I used it in my new booster, and it fit into the master cylinder much better. Tomorrow the brakes will be bled, and tested.
So glad i watched this video! I have a very similar kit (possibly the same) from Tom's Auto City Classic for my 56 Chevy. Brakes have been hanging up and driving me nuts. Talked to Chris there and told me how to trouble shoot it. He said when they hang up, unbolt the master and if they release its the booster adjustment (or bad booster). I'm going with adjustment. It's been this way since day one. Thank you for the video. Not sure, but thinking Pinaki Joadder was having a bad day when commenting. If you can't figure it out from your excellent explanation....maybe hire a mechanic
Is there a way to reduce the 7 inches of brake to floor when adding a booster to a tri-five? I mean if you are going to have power brakes, why would you need to lift your foot 12 inches off the floor to finally come into contact with the brake pad? What are all the people doing with tri-fives? Are they still just picking up their foot a foot in the air in order to stop? Thanks.
Has anyone ever had a bad booster apply their brakes without them touching the brake pedal? I had it happen to me on two vehicles. The brakes would just slowly apply themselves and both times it was a bad booster.
I like speedway thanks for all the cool stuff you have. I have a problem on my blazer it has the stock master and brake booster, the peddle goes to the floor and feels like it has no front brakes. I have changed the master cylinder twice thinking I got a bad one the first time with no change, I have also replaced the calipers on both sides in front along with the rubber lines and rebled the whole system and ended up with the same problem again. Brakes slow to apply and feels like little or no front brakes or only the back brakes are working, replaced the stock proportioning valve with a good one from a parts truck I had thinking that it was the problem and still the same ,peddle goes to the floor when I apply full pressure. I don't want to drive it till I get it fixed feeling like I can stop in a emergency is to scary for me. Any ideas were to start can the booster brake and over power the master cylinder and make the brakes do this or is there something I'm missing. kind of stumped when I got it the left front brake did not work, found that the rubber line was collapsed and replaced both of them and the calipers and front pads, the whole system has been bled and there is clear fluid in the whole system. Anyone have a good idea were to start
Does all brake boosters have this push rod that can be adjusted or is it just some of them that has it.I just worked on a 2008 Chevrolet Express van recently and I don't remember if the brake booster push rod has an adjustment nut,if it does have with the way the brake pedal feels then I will have to make an adjustment.Hope I will be able to get a response to know what I can do .
Hi There, I can't say that all boosters have this adjustment. Here at Speedway we sell universal boosters for Street Rod and Muscle Car applications, so we are not familiar with your Express van. Thanks for watching!
To purchase a universal set up. Buyer would need to know all specs on car? As in pedal travel, diameter of brake master cylinder? Or can just car information be given to tech?
Yes, these are a universal set up designed to work in hot rod applications. When you call in to order (800-979-0122) you can ask to speak to a tech and they can listen to what you are building and make sure you receive the best parts for your application!
the "little spud" that you mentioned in video, I bought a 7" booster/mastercylinder and I don't remember it having that in the kit! where can I buy it? ive been working on breaks and it doesn't seem to be pumping up, this could be the reason.
is there any sort of "vaccum reducer" thing, that can reduce the vaccum pressure by some amount. For example from 22Hg to 18 Hg. I actually want to use it with brake booster to make the pedal a bit harder (currently its too soft). * currently installed booster is not adjustable.
I have one of these kits, and the pedal goes to the floor and feels spongy, "brake" light comes on, and the pedal is slow to return to the top no matter whether engine is on or off. Am I looking at a faulty booster or pushrod length issues?
Speedway Motors , looking at diagrams, looks like the front and rear ports on this style MC are switched compared to my 78 CJ5 I am installing the kit on. I'm going to switch them and see what happens first.
1930 model a frame mounted manual break's can I add just the 7" booster to the master cylinder that I'm using now or do I need to replace everything? I have drum in the rear and disc in the front.
If you have a standard master cylinder for manual brakes the piston will have a deep bore for the pushrod. When you bought the master cylinder if it worked for both manual or power brakes in the box was the slug like was mentioned on the video you referenced. If you have that slug to reduce the piston from a deep bore to a shallow dish then it also can be used with a booster. If not and you purchased it from Speedway we may have the slug available. If not then unfortunately you will need to replace the master cylinder and the booster. Boosters only help when you have available vacuum of 18-20 inches.
So i was adjusting mine because it was to long so i shortened it but then it was too short so i tried to make it longer and i broke the the tip bolt adjustment thing ? Anything i can do
Wait, your tech said "set the booster push rod 1/16 inch from the master cylinder", most other websites advise setting that gap no more than .020. Who's right?
@@speedwaymotors Okay, you claim 1/16" (0.0625") clearance "is correct". Please explain how that figure which is more than 3 times the commonly recommended clearance of 0.020" is, in fact, "correct". 1/16" clearance is only going to provide a lot of slop in the brake pedal that just does not need to be there.
@@feathermerchant it's up to you. Just make sure the damn thing isn't touching the master cylinder.! I had this problem. God bless you tube. I knew that it wasn't my front Calipers dragging, because when I opened the bleeder screws, the pressure released and the rotors weren't dragging! My master cylinder was hitting the booster around 1/8" to hard
@@jakefriesenjake *"Just make sure the damn thing isn't touching the master cylinder.! "* anyone unable to measure and set clearances in the range of 0.020"...should probably not be working on their brakes (or other things).
@@feathermerchant oh I hears ya! It just don't really matter, u feelin' me?? I make nice brake lines, but the very nice tool I have to do the double flares, was off on the Spacing. So, I had to figure out the new exact Spacing from the end of the brake line, to the stopper plug. I have to shim it exactly 0.0625003974" If I don't, my car would lose all my expensive dot 5! So yeah, sometimes It actually matters.......
Not a great video. Agree that hints (like the spud) are helpful, but talking some about adjusting the shaft nut on the booster WITHOUT telling us anything about HOW to adjust it - no bueno. Run us through the process, then we've learned something.
i never see a company whit the more bad costumer in the market like speedway how you go to charge two times the shipping for two air filter in the same box
I hate info that's half correct, what about the adjuster tool you forgot to mention, residual valves for under cars are, links to your diagrams... But take my money anyway
Speedway's tech service and detailed product advice is invaluable and one reason I'm a loyal customer.
I just finished installing a chrome master/booster kit from Speedway on my 55' Chevrolet. This was a challenge but I've got it working. I hope this info helps you guys.
The Master cylinder I received required a 1 1/2" spacer inside the rear of the master. This did not come in the kit and I couldn't find it locally. I made the spacer from a bolt and center drilled it enough for the pushrod to stay centered. The next step was to adjust the booster pushrod to a 1/16" gap. There is a very good tool for this adjustment. It is in the form of an 'H' with a pin running thru the center. They can be easily sourced.
The master cylinder has 4 ports. The kit came with plugs. I couldn't get them to seal. To cure this problem I drilled the caps 1/2 way thru with a 3/16 bit. I made double flare inserts with copper clad line then reinstalled the plugs. The copper clad line is soft and does a good job here.
Make sure to use 11/32 vacuum hose, not 3/8 fuel line for the booster.
The wheel studs in the kit are long enough for steel wheels but were a bit short to work with my Cragars.
My tie rods had enough range to readjust toe-in to spec.
Thank you for taking time for the great information you shared have a great hope your brakes are still working well
I am using what looks like the same combination in my 1959 Ford Fairlane. I put a piece of plumber's putty in the recess in the insert in the master cylinder, and it looked like there was good clearance, but I noticed that the master cylinder would spring back from the booster. This told me that there was no clearance wherever it was touching. I looked at the putty, and there were little lines in it made by the points on the hex head adjusting spud or bolt. I looked at the same part in another booster from a kit, and it was a higher and steeper dome. I used it in my new booster, and it fit into the master cylinder much better. Tomorrow the brakes will be bled, and tested.
So glad i watched this video! I have a very similar kit (possibly the same) from Tom's Auto City Classic for my 56 Chevy. Brakes have been hanging up and driving me nuts. Talked to Chris there and told me how to trouble shoot it. He said when they hang up, unbolt the master and if they release its the booster adjustment (or bad booster). I'm going with adjustment. It's been this way since day one. Thank you for the video. Not sure, but thinking Pinaki Joadder was having a bad day when commenting. If you can't figure it out from your excellent explanation....maybe hire a mechanic
Good video but HOW is the push rod in the booster adjusted?
How about the total front end assembly of a I beam drop axel. I know most it is elementary BUT not if your new to this type of Hotrod piece.
Please be advised. This adjustment must be made in the car with the engine running because the vacuum changes the position of the pin
I install 7 inch booster master on my 1958 f100 with a crown vict front suspension. Hard to stop.
Will the Baer tool work with my vehicle? i have a 1987 jaguar xj6, 4.2l. will the tool work on this older British car?
Is there a way to reduce the 7 inches of brake to floor when adding a booster to a tri-five? I mean if you are going to have power brakes, why would you need to lift your foot 12 inches off the floor to finally come into contact with the brake pad? What are all the people doing with tri-fives? Are they still just picking up their foot a foot in the air in order to stop? Thanks.
Has anyone ever had a bad booster apply their brakes without them touching the brake pedal? I had it happen to me on two vehicles. The brakes would just slowly apply themselves and both times it was a bad booster.
I like speedway thanks for all the cool stuff you have. I have a problem on my blazer it has the stock master and brake booster, the peddle goes to the floor and feels like it has no front brakes. I have changed the master cylinder twice thinking I got a bad one the first time with no change, I have also replaced the calipers on both sides in front along with the rubber lines and rebled the whole system and ended up with the same problem again. Brakes slow to apply and feels like little or no front brakes or only the back brakes are working, replaced the stock proportioning valve with a good one from a parts truck I had thinking that it was the problem and still the same ,peddle goes to the floor when I apply full pressure. I don't want to drive it till I get it fixed feeling like I can stop in a emergency is to scary for me. Any ideas were to start can the booster brake and over power the master cylinder and make the brakes do this or is there something I'm missing. kind of stumped when I got it the left front brake did not work, found that the rubber line was collapsed and replaced both of them and the calipers and front pads, the whole system has been bled and there is clear fluid in the whole system. Anyone have a good idea were to start
must be a leak somewhere
Does all brake boosters have this push rod that can be adjusted or is it just some of them that has it.I just worked on a 2008 Chevrolet Express van recently and I don't remember if the brake booster push rod has an adjustment nut,if it does have with the way the brake pedal feels then I will have to make an adjustment.Hope I will be able to get a response to know what I can do .
Hi There,
I can't say that all boosters have this adjustment. Here at Speedway we sell universal boosters for Street Rod and Muscle Car applications, so we are not familiar with your Express van. Thanks for watching!
To purchase a universal set up. Buyer would need to know all specs on car? As in pedal travel, diameter of brake master cylinder? Or can just car information be given to tech?
Yes, these are a universal set up designed to work in hot rod applications. When you call in to order (800-979-0122) you can ask to speak to a tech and they can listen to what you are building and make sure you receive the best parts for your application!
the "little spud" that you mentioned in video, I bought a 7" booster/mastercylinder and I don't remember it having that in the kit! where can I buy it? ive been working on breaks and it doesn't seem to be pumping up, this could be the reason.
john smith did u figure out ur problem I'm have same troubles
is there any sort of "vaccum reducer" thing, that can reduce the vaccum pressure by some amount. For example from 22Hg to 18 Hg.
I actually want to use it with brake booster to make the pedal a bit harder (currently its too soft).
* currently installed booster is not adjustable.
I have one of these kits, and the pedal goes to the floor and feels spongy, "brake" light comes on, and the pedal is slow to return to the top no matter whether engine is on or off. Am I looking at a faulty booster or pushrod length issues?
Hi Rick- give us a call at 800.979.0122 and we can help troubleshoot!
Speedway Motors , looking at diagrams, looks like the front and rear ports on this style MC are switched compared to my 78 CJ5 I am installing the kit on. I'm going to switch them and see what happens first.
1930 model a frame mounted manual break's can I add just the 7" booster to the master cylinder that I'm using now or do I need to replace everything? I have drum in the rear and disc in the front.
If you have a standard master cylinder for manual brakes the piston will have a deep bore for the pushrod. When you bought the master cylinder if it worked for both manual or power brakes in the box was the slug like was mentioned on the video you referenced. If you have that slug to reduce the piston from a deep bore to a shallow dish then it also can be used with a booster. If not and you purchased it from Speedway we may have the slug available. If not then unfortunately you will need to replace the master cylinder and the booster. Boosters only help when you have available vacuum of 18-20 inches.
So i was adjusting mine because it was to long so i shortened it but then it was too short so i tried to make it longer and i broke the the tip bolt adjustment thing ? Anything i can do
I would say sell it, but don't get a tempo or a k-car.
hello, looking for power boster for dodge A100 1968 V8 - could the booster fit ??? Thanks siggi from germany Berlin ,, :)
PLEASE... DO A VIDEO HOW TO SET IT UP CORRECTLY.... THANK YOU.
how come my brakes lock up going down the road I put in New master cylinder and new shoes. peddle gets really hard and my brakes like to lick up
had to adjust the pushrod at the booster so it isn't engaging the master cylinder without you touching the pedal...needs a tiny gap
@@johnjoseph7382 I just did this trick!
Wait, your tech said "set the booster push rod 1/16 inch from the master cylinder", most other websites advise setting that gap no more than .020. Who's right?
The clearance mentioned in the video is correct! Thanks for your question!
@@speedwaymotors Okay, you claim 1/16" (0.0625") clearance "is correct". Please explain how that figure which is more than 3 times the commonly recommended clearance of 0.020" is, in fact, "correct". 1/16" clearance is only going to provide a lot of slop in the brake pedal that just does not need to be there.
@@feathermerchant it's up to you. Just make sure the damn thing isn't touching the master cylinder.!
I had this problem. God bless you tube.
I knew that it wasn't my front Calipers dragging, because when I opened the bleeder screws, the pressure released and the rotors weren't dragging! My master cylinder was hitting the booster around 1/8" to hard
@@jakefriesenjake *"Just make sure the damn thing isn't touching the master cylinder.! "* anyone unable to measure and set clearances in the range of 0.020"...should probably not be working on their brakes (or other things).
@@feathermerchant oh I hears ya! It just don't really matter, u feelin' me??
I make nice brake lines, but the very nice tool I have to do the double flares, was off on the Spacing. So, I had to figure out the new exact Spacing from the end of the brake line, to the stopper plug. I have to shim it exactly 0.0625003974"
If I don't, my car would lose all my expensive dot 5!
So yeah, sometimes It actually matters.......
thank you
What was the 'spud' for ?
Not a great video. Agree that hints (like the spud) are helpful, but talking some about adjusting the shaft nut on the booster WITHOUT telling us anything about HOW to adjust it - no bueno. Run us through the process, then we've learned something.
the information your giving on adjusting the rod is.....'put a little piece of clay on there'
i never see a company whit the more bad costumer in the market like speedway how you go to charge two times the shipping for two air filter in the same box
I hate info that's half correct, what about the adjuster tool you forgot to mention, residual valves for under cars are, links to your diagrams...
But take my money anyway
I am leaking between master and booster.can you help
JOHN GARZA leaking past the seals/rubber cups on the piston. Rebuild the master cylinder with a rebuild kit, or replace the master cylinder.
Talk is Cheap... Please DEMONSTRATE!
No.it didn't.