How To Remove A Stuck Freewheel - Broken Notches
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- čas přidán 29. 09. 2017
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Big thanks to RJ The Bike Guy for the information in this video.
• Removing Stuck Freewhe...
I can now rebuild this wheel with new spokes (and reuse another hub from a different bike!) Hopefully I can make use of the good sprockets from this one as they’re too good to waste. - Sport
I was able to remove a very stuck 70's Shimano freewheel thanks to this video. I had tried even heating it up with a torch and using the spline tool with a steel tube on the wrench, and it didn't budge. Thanks so much, mate.
Nice work! Glad it helped!
Thanks for the video!! Super helpful and I wouldn’t have been able to get my freewheel off without this
Thanks for the video - I would have been stuck without this. I had the right Shimano block but the splines just jumped out of their register when I tried to turn it. Once I had removed the outer part of the freewheel and the ball bearings I soaked the inner part in WD40. Then I put it in the vice and turned the wheel. And hey presto!
Really love your tutorials on the vintage and retrobikes ☺
Thanks Warren
Fortunately, I wasn't in deep trouble like this; just couldn't grip the sprocket cluster until I saw the clue to use a stilson (pipe wrench). That was the 5 seconds of video I needed. Got it undone.
The reason that your Regina freewheel stripped-out is because you tried to remove it with a Suntour tool. As you correctly pointed out, the Suntour remover doesn’t fit all two-prong freewheel bodies equally well - Try using it on anything other than a Suntour freewheel, and this will usually be the result.
You need to track down an old Regina or Dura-Ace freewheel tool (Campy also made a lovely long handled version). These have a collar that encloses the ring on the freewheel body, and prevents it from shearing. These freewheels are practically impossible to remove without the right tool, which is unfortunately not made any more.
I did the same thing. I went to the local bike shop and they sold me a FR-2 tool that looked like the right one but when I tried it the "teeth" were too wide to fit the notches but since they looked like it had been pushed in I just hammered it into place then tried to hold it into the notches while turning with a wrench, which stripped the notches. Then I went on to find this and a couple other vids and saw my error, I should have clamped the tool in a vice and use my weight to hold it tight and the leverage of the wheel to loosen it. After seeing Mortimer's comment I checked the package and of course it says Suntour right there. So after all that, I tried hammering it with a flat tipped round drift and deadblow hammer, all that did was flatten out the notch more. After thinking I decided to follow Griftereck's advice and use the quick release skewer to hold the tool in tight to the FW, I also put some Breakfree penetrating oil (The best) on it over night. With the skewer holding the tool tight I clamped the tool into the vice and twisted, it came loose. You just have to remember to loosen the skewer as you unscrew the FW from the hub or you could break the skewer.
just tried this procedure tonight and had to use a pipe wrench like in one of rj's video. Being too impatient and cheap to buy the right removal tool I wrapped the body in a soda can strip of aluminum and it came off. Minor tool marks were left however they are slight indents and not noticable to the touch. The bearing surfaces are good. In hindsight I would have used more aluminum and a old inner tube.
Good video mate and now I have more of an idea how to fix my sons BMX single gear
Awesome. Good luck.
thanks for the video,and others on your channel..just solved a similar problem today. cheers from mallorca
Glad it helped!
helped me a lot mate
Hi, nice video! I am from Argmetina, , 60 y.o. , amd I repare and maintain my bicycles since I was 10 y.o.....those thin washers after the first set of bearings, aren't lock rings...they are spacers...adding or subtracting them, you set the depth for the "reverse thread" cap, so there is almost no lateral movement . Cheers from "down here"!
Hola Argentina. Sorry if I called them lock rings, I only meant the top piece to be a lock ring.
That first "lockring" is actually the cone for the outer bearing of the freewheel. The shims then set the bearing clearance when it's tightened down.
Provided you didn't damage the pawl area on the FW Body when you clamped and torqued it, you can Rebuild that FW. Just Carefully grind 2 more notches 90° opposite of the damaged notches (And buy the CORRECT FW Remover for it). That would make an Awesome 2nd Video btw.
I've since done a rebuild video of sorts. A service. But I do have a few old Regina bodies lying around with broken pawls and potentially damaged notches. The special pawls in those are the difficult parts though.
Ive had experience with a lot of old freewheels that werent keen on coming off the hub. I had a lot of different freewheel removers. The way I used them. Have the wheel with the tyre and tube still on it, and inflated. put the tool in the freewheel. with the wheel nut, or skewer to hold it in, loosely. then put the wheel upside down in the vice. try to get the thing to turn. or have the wheel standing up, on the ground. I had some big spanners that fitted the freewhel remover. they were cheap from the car boot sale. then stand on the spanner. that sometimes worked. if that all fails. or if the freewheel is different from any tool you have. or the freewheel has no place for a remover tool at all. then I try a hammer and drift tool. in the pin holes on the face plate thingummy of the freewheel. There sometimes marked with arrows, for the direction to remove the face plate. hammer the drift in the opposite direction. that might free the freewheel. If its tight. try to alternate between the pin holes. as they can chew up. as a last resort. I have put the entire freewheel into the vice jaws. then tightened up the jaws. so the entire freewheel body deforms, and grips the inner part. then turn the wheel. that will be tough tho. I had a good quality vice. Had a scaffold pole that I could slip on the vice handle to get it extra tight. If the freewheel body has come off the inner part. then remove the spacer washers. the pawls on different brands of freewheel can be different. as well as the place they sit in. I clamp the vice jaws on the place that the pawls sit. fairly tight. then turn the wheel a LITTLE. If its turning. LOOSEN OFF the vice a LITTLE. so the freewheel inner part doesnt chew up the hub threads. Its easier to turn the wheel. Ive managed to rebuild some of the freewheels. That Ive taken off with the so called, destructive method.
Locking the tool in with the quick release skewer worked with the help of some Breakfree penetrant overnight. I had stipped the notches out with a (suntour) parktool FR-2, didn't know it was wrong tool until I saw Mortimer's comment. So I tried a drift and hammer, that just deformed the notched part, then I tried your method of using the skewer to hold the tool in tight, it worked great, thanks.
this is an old post but I'm commenting anyway since there aren't too many dealing with a stuck FW. I wish I'd seen this before I tried the park tool FR-2 on my Regina screwed to a campagnolo hub. steel and aluminum are a bad mixture for corrosion where they meet. One comment was to use the skewer to hold the tool into the notches in the FW center. With only two notches it's easy for it to slip or get out of alignment but the skewer would hold it tight so it couldn't slip out of the notches. I might give it another try with it anyway by aligning the tool with the notches and locking it in with the skewer then clamp it in a vice like you mentioned and turn the wheel. I wish you had shown if it did destroy the inner part of the FW, it didn't look too bad but no close up to be sure. BTW, you left your balls on the vice. After seeing Mortimer's comment I checked the package and of course it says Suntour right there. So after stripping the notches with the tool, I tried hammering it with a flat tipped round drift and deadblow hammer, all that did was flatten out the notch more. After thinking I decided to follow Griftereck's advice and use the quick release skewer to hold the tool in tight to the FW, I also put some Breakfree penetrating oil (The best) on it over night. With the skewer holding the tool tight I clamped the tool into the vice and twisted, it came loose. You just have to remember to loosen the skewer as you unscrew the FW from the hub or you could break the skewer.
When i cycled in the 1970`s two incidents happened to me and probably affected others is one the always used to give you a free multi bike spanner that never fitted any of your component`s and two your front and rear hub was constant in engaging with string endless string and you spun your wheels backward`s to release the unwanted combination only making things worse.
Did the same about 15 years back, then sold the hub for about £8. Lots of mucking about for a few quid, but I like the challenge & saving things. Spent hours the other week trying to work out why the motor on a stand fan kept stopping, until I found two super thin washers had split. Now as good as new, but owe how easy it would have been to replace 20 year old f a n with one for £15 from Amazon. But it could now be good for another 20 years.
I have the same sentiment. Besides anything you buy now is cheap crap designed to fail after the warranty expires. If the engineers worked on making stuff last longer as much as they do to make it break after a certain time we'd have a lot fewer problems.
Sorry I forgot: I am in a FB "group of rescued bicycles", where We have tons of old bicycles in various statuses , from "pristine" to "pile of rust"...and from "made in backyard" to some invaluable beauties form old ages. Some of your videos, with your permission, I would like to append to our "must watch or read" library for begginers (and not so beginners) to learn, refresh knowledge or simply for leisure. Thanks in advance for your time.
Sure. I love people to share the videos around.
Informative video, but... Why did you proceed with the destructive part of removing the "freewheel body" threaded onto the hub when your goal was to replace spokes? It appears they were already accessable before removing said body. Am I missing something? At the stage before the destructive part, you could have replaced the spokes then reassembled the freewheel?
Ah yes. For that build I was going to use a new freewheel. That's why I continued to remove the freewheel body from the hub
I hope by now you've got a magnetic pick up stick! Invaluable for retrieval of bearings in tight races.
Definitely have one. So much easier.
DON'T Reuse those Bearings after tho. They'll be magnetized and attract worn steel from the hub bearings and races and eat up your Hub quicker.
Provided you didn't damage the FW Body around the Pawl area you clamped to Remove it ... Why don't you make ANOTHER Video on Salvaging and Rebuilding that Freewheel! If you CAREFULLY Grind 2 more Notches into the FW Body you SHOULD be able to fit the FW Removel Tool on it and it MAY be removable as long as you grease the FW and Hub Threads Thoroughly before screwing the FW on.
Last time I tried removing one of these (broken tooth) it was on so tight it destroyed the hub in the process of removing it & I had to rebuild the wheel on a new hub too.
Thanks
Wow! Thanks for the super thanks!
How do you get it off when the notches are stripped and there is no removable lockring? It is a single speed FW on a really nice Westwood rim... but I have no idea how to get it off :(
Oooo... Um. Do you know what make of freewheel it is?
Now I just need to see a video on how you're going to put all those bearings back. 😉
Soon. I have lots of freewheels to service!
@@MonkeyShred I actually got mine done. Lost a few ball bearings, got replacements at LBS and just cleaned the old ones up, greased the traces, and placed the little suckers one by one with a pair of tweasers until finished. Works like new now. :)
hey buddy when you say most of the time they come off clockwise, is there any way to tell? i have a shimano one and its seized stuck and i dont wanna be doing this in the wrong direction
The freewheel itself should always come off Anti Clockwise as it's tightened down by pedalling but the lockring should always be opposite if you want to take apart the freewheel. The lockring itself should be loosened in a clockwise direction
@@MonkeyShred thank you buddy mines so tight i cant open it, best thing to do is just drip lube in there because the part works i just want to re-apply grease
After a freewheel is assembled, should it be fairly solid without any movement from side to side? I bought a new bike and the freewheel has about a mil or 2 millimeters of movement side to side (i.e. if you were to push down or lift up on a tooth towards or away from the spokes). I ask because after switching gears, sometimes it makes a knocking noise which is the freewheel jostling side to side. Its made louder because it's a fat tire rim (the vibrations are more noticeable due to the larger cavity). Should I demand Trek fix or replace the freewheel (it's a shamino)? The bike is here: www.electrabike.com/sites/default/files/styles/bike_full/public/skus/539996.jpg?itok=Y3exVQIg
It should be aligned with no side to side wobble, sounds like yours may be cross-threaded onto the hub. If it's a new bike I'd let the seller or manufacturer know about the problem.
Park Tools makes an inexpensive tool for removing the lock ring for the freewheel. Much easier.
I do have two different pin spanners from park but with these lock rings generally being so tight, the Park tools just slip straight out. It needed a bit of brute force to get it going.
Hard work when you don't have the right block !
I used a pen magnet for the ball bearings.
perhaps use a "magnetized" screwdriver, to lift out each ball?...
I have one now.
8:42 Ouch jackass...
Lol thanks for the video!!
Another good method use an adjustable wrench on the lockring tool and then slide a long metal pipe into the wrench handle. Amazing leverage
use a skewer with tools like that. it will hold the tool deeper into the FW and will not let it slip.
Very true. Or the axle nut if you're so inclined.
That's what I did since trying to hold it in by hand and turning with a wrench (spanner) is pretty much a recipe for disaster. Using the skewer (quick release for the home mechanic) works great even after messing up the notches
THANKs for your video I finally got my freewheel off !!! only cock up was when its in the vice you have to turn wheel clockwise ,, I was turning it anti ,,, and was tightening it ,,, its now off though after braking the tool I followed the video on how to remove freewheel with out a tool
You could have changed the spokes and put it all back together after you removed the cogs :)
Magnet?
What happens when the lockring is also seized no matter how hard you hammer? :((
Get the blowtorch out.
you do realize that the freewheel got damaged because you didn't use the correct remover for it, right?
probably every mechanic whose worked on old bikes has made the same mistake you did. it's a shame cuz people watching this video are going to make the same mistake
Yup. I have a growing collection of specific freewheel tools and there's still new ones to be discovered. Bit of a pain really.
Yes I did make that mistake but I blame the local bike shop that sold me the FR-2 suntour tool, apparently they don't know or didn't think to make sure I got the correct tool. Plus I had taken the wheel assy. with me to show them. Oh, well using the skewer to hold it in worked anyway. What is the difference exactly? I know it didn't want to go into the notches like the nubs were too wide. I hammered it in, I know, not good.
so what he is saying is you are required to have your own workshop, work table and huge vice to fix your wheel.
Best way to unfreeze a freewheel is to use WD-40 which work wonders.
Most things soaked in WD40 will unfreeze if they're not rusted solid, but this was about removing a freewheel with broken notches.
@@MonkeyShred it was frozen solid and rusted. It's unfrozen now,I took apart to work.
Use a cassette tool next time if it fits loose, it works
You're going to have to explain that one. A "cassette tool" doesn't fit freewheels. Freewheels have lots of different tools and this one used a two prong tool, but because of the broken notches it doesn't work. If you mean a "chain whip" that can sometimes be used to remove the cogs from the body of the freewheel but it still leaves the body on the hub...