How to Connect an Ice Maker Like a Pro | Ask This Old House
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- čas přidán 28. 08. 2024
- Ask This Old House plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey helps a special homeowner hook up her refrigerator with an ice maker.
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Time: 2-3 hours
Cost: $30
Skill Level: Moderate
Tools List for Connecting an Ice Maker:
Drill [amzn.to/2mSflaY]
Feeler bit [amzn.to/2m2QEZg]
Pipe cutter [amzn.to/2m2Sycm]
Bucket [amzn.to/2nxt07O]
Wrench [amzn.to/2n0kFJj]
Shopping List:
1/4 inch copper tubing [amzn.to/2mYRAxW]
Copper T fitting [amzn.to/2n0ODNl]
Multi-turn shut off valve [amzn.to/2npTub8] with a compression connection [amzn.to/2lk9laA]
Abrasive cloth [amzn.to/2m27305]
Pipe cleaner [amzn.to/2mSs6T8]
Solder [amzn.to/2nyU9r7]
Flux [amzn.to/2lrdIAU]
Flux brush [amzn.to/2nxnDFF]
Steps:
1. Shut the water off to the house.
2. Locate the nearest cold water line and determine its location compared to the location of the fridge.
3. With that in mind, pull out the fridge and drill down with a feeler bit as close to the cold water line as possible.
4. Use the feeler bit to determine the best location to drill for the water line. Drill the hole.
5. Carefully uncoil the copper tubing and run it through the hole and close to the water line.
6. Determine where the water line will be cut. Clean that area with the abrasive cloth and cut it with a pipe cutter. Have a bucket ready to catch any water that comes out.
7. Once it’s dry, apply flux to the outside of the T and the inside of the pipe and the multi turn shut off valve.
8. Fit the pipe, the T, and the shutoff valve together and solder it.
9. Connect the _” copper tubing to the other side of the shutoff valve with the compression connection.
10. Go back to the fridge and uncoil the rest of the copper tubing. Leave extra slack high on the fridge so that it can still be easily moved in and out.
11. Find the opening in the back of the fridge to receive the copper tubing and screw it into place.
12. Put the fridge back in the opening and turn the water back on.
Resources:
While there are plenty of homeowner friendly kits [amzn.to/2mTU4ha] available for ice maker hookups, Richard suggests doing a little extra work to ensure a secure connection that will last for a long time.
Richard replaced the plastic tubing for copper tubing, and instead of using a saddle valve, he connected it to the cold water line using a compression connection with a multi turn valve, which he soldered into the cold water pipe using a T fitting. All of these materials are available at home centers and plumbing supply houses.
About Ask This Old House TV:
Homeowners have a virtual truckload of questions for us on smaller projects, and we're ready to answer. Ask This Old House solves the steady stream of home improvement problems faced by our viewers-and we make house calls! Ask This Old House features some familiar faces from This Old House, including Kevin O'Connor, general contractor Tom Silva, plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey, and landscape contractor Roger Cook.
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How to Connect an Ice Maker Like a Pro | Ask This Old House
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Man I grew up watching This old house with my dad and always loved it. Now as a 42 year man and fixing up my house it always takes me back to the show as a kid. Thank you for the memories and the knowledge.
Watching these episodes always fills me with happiness inside. Reminds me of watching my dad fixing things, and handing him tools
In the next episode Tommy comes by to repair all the holes Richard drilled into the floor.
2 behind a frig?
Out of sight out of mind
hahahaha
The classical plumbers lament. No one ever sees your work, unless you screwed something up.
The fridge will hide it!
The weld on connection was a good choice, but I would have used a stainless flex line in place of the copper, longer life, no kinking, and less likely to fail over time due to corrosion caused by chemicals in the water, overall a good install.
It's always nice when you can help out a friend / Coworker.
Plumbing Apprentice for 3 years now and would like to say that the copper line is something I havent heard anyone install around here anymore. Most fridge hookups would be easier with a braided stainless steel hose seeing as how you don’t have to worry about kinking the copper. The ones I’ve installed also happen to connect under the kitchen sink so elderly/disabled homeowners don’t have to go under their crawlspace or basement to shut it off.
Copper to the wall then go from copper to braided stainless just behind the fridge. It's illegal to run a supply hose through the wall, most you can do is go between cabinets. The supply hose has to be visibly accessible the entire length. Im my county it's code to have the shut off for the fridge and dishwasher under the sink.
@@alec4672 that seems very restrictive. I’m about to get a water line run to my fridge, but it requires a lone to go into the wall, over a doorway, then out the other wall. My plumber will do this with a continuous copper pipe though. One thicker than the one in this video.
@@Heliosvector yeah but he's not gonna hook the copper pipe directly to your fridge. He's gonna run the copper line in the wall and install a shut off valve at the wall and hook the fridge to the valve with a flexible hose. You know... exactly how I said to do it. Plumbing in a supply line for a fridge is no different then a supply line for a toilet. The hose is just longer and some fittings might be different sizes also the valve might be recessed in the wall (you can buy valve boxes from Otey for this)
@@Heliosvector and it's not a continuous copper pipe if there's fittings in the wall. Unless he's waisting your money on soft copper like here.
I do not trust those saddle valves I have never used them. And you did it right just like I would solder a T and you went further by soldering the angle stop👍👍👋.... Great job sir👍👍👍
I have used them (because Richard Trethewey I am NOT!) and so far I have been lucky. In our new kitchen reno, we are having a contractor do it, so it will be up to code!
What's the angle stop?
@@syfodias-jedimaster angle stops are just 1/4 turn ball valve
I have a stainless braided cable that comes from a T in my Pex tubing. Great flow and no worry about kinking a copper line.
Braided line is just a protector for the pex line within it. Just like braided steel brakehose, the braided steel is just there to protect it, the actual hose is just like a normal brake hose inside it.
You guys are awesome. My father was a contractor, and I’ve always been his shadow, watching him repair, replace, and build things inside and out of the house. Of course there were elements I missed, and projects I may just not have seen. You guys fill in the blanks, and make me feel even more confident in my own abilities to take care of my own home! Thank you so much!
Almost hit the romex cable lol
that first pilot hole drilled blind within 3 inches of some romex. great job!
5:48 " you excited girl?" Lol
Yup. Noticed that.
Alright, time to read the comments and see where he fudged up
No steel tip shoes; no fire extinguisher; no side shields on his prescription glasses; no ear plugs using the torch, ladder leaned against the wall is a no-no and can lead to a debilitating fall and possible lifetime paralysis.
@@darrylfitzys8632 Are you from OSHA?? I believe OSHA's heart is in the right place , but their heads are out to lunch.
Darryl Fitzys 😂 I didn’t even notice the step ladder.
Ron Peters I was about to write that. Reminds me of when I took woodshop in high school.
He messed up because he didn't do this at my house.
I have 3 Saddle-T valves on galvanized now. One would think just by looking that they would be pretty risky to use but apparently not. My house is 62 years old. One of them is ~52 years old from the previous owner, another ~24 years old when we replaced our fridge with one with an ice maker, and another ~7 years old on the hot water heater outlet which runs to the Aprilaire furnace humidifier. None of them have ever given any problem. If they did, they wouldn't be so popular and still sold. They are standard with ice maker install kits. So if you already have one, or two, or... I wouldn't freak out about some imminent catastrophe. The vast majority of them do not leak, but they are more likely to leak than a properly installed water valve, which is why they are not approved by code.
The reason for their use is because with galvanized you have to either remove everything downstream and then cut and thread pipe and re-plumb everything downstream, or more likely cut the pipe for a T, thread the ends of the cut in-situ, and install a coupler and union. Splicing copper is much simpler but unlike with plastic plumbing, the average home owner cannot do it, and a DIYer would need to buy the torch, solder, and then practice, so the temptation is still there to use a Saddle-T. However, these days you can skip the torch and use SharkBite fittings, which are approved. However, many plumbers are in favor of on SharkBite fittings due to the O-Rings that can age. They use them themselves temporarily for pressure tests. Saddle-Ts are not made for any of the plastic plumbing but they are so easy to splice that there would not be much temptation to use them if they were available. For the rigid plastics, all you need is a hacksaw, glue/primer kit, and a little sandpaper to remove the burrs. PEX requires a specialized crimping tool, but one can buy a PEX crimp tool, cutting tool, and enough crimp rings to do most houses from Amazon for $32, and requires no skill that needs to be developed.
I will be re-doing with PEX. Plastic plumbing is not a great insulator, but better than galvanized or copper, so less sweating from the cold and lower heat loss from the hot water line. They also do not corrode or leach minerals into the water. Since PEX can bend, there are a lot fewer fittings and joints required than with rigid plumbing, and because crimping tool produces a consistent joint every time, there is much less chance of a leak, and simple to repair in the unlikely event that there ever is one. PEX is also the most likely to survive a freeze/thaw cycle. It can be also be spliced into existing plumbing. When pressure testing PEX, wait 1/2 hour before taking a reading to give the pipe a chance to expand and change its shape slightly from the pressure.
2:25 missed an electric cable by a few cm. I wouldn’t drill randomly through any floor wall or ceiling in a house. Once i took a gamble doing that, and my drill bit got steered away from a 230v cable by a PVC pipe. Always check where you are going to drill. Use such detection device.
A little risky, indeed. But yes, not my personally preferred way to explore the follies of inadvertent water works and electrical surprises.
I'm partial to the stubby drill bit and flashlight method myself.
You sound like you never used a drill. There was no way on earth he would drill through that cable.
E D Possibly you never used one and you’re just hanging out the big man here?
If you can't tell the exact moment (when the wood stop resisting) where the floor ends while drilling you shouldn't be drilling. Not to mention it would take a lot of effort and an idiot to drill through an unsupported cable. You can even tell the transition to a different material like drywall to wood, brick to concrete etc. Sounds like you're just one of those guys whose life depends on fiding flaws in these videos.
E D the point is that not all cables are unsupported. Did you even read my initial comment?
I've been watching since i was a pup. I love these guys.
Beastman44 same here! 20+ years
I love how he just blindly drill into the floor without even looking in the basement if its clear... And then drill another hole into the floor...
there was only a power cable lol, what's the worst that could happen? :)
So close to that romex too
@Bo Hunter you're *
That tv for you, they probably already checked
BUT it's TV. All this was scouted and checked before they even got there.
This was a good explanation of the process but I found that the hardest part was getting the existing water pipe dry enough to solder. Ultimately I decided not to solder at all and installed a Sharkbite service slip tee device instead. Super easy, done in ten minutes.
Has the shark bite leaked in 3 years?
@@xxDOTH3DEWxx
It has not leaked and is still working great. Haven't had to do anything to it. I was skeptical of Sharkbite fittings but I have used them all over and they have been great and haven't leaked even a drop.
@@stevemeshenberg494 I used bread to suck up the last drops of water, after it has mostly dried up insert the bread, do the soldering and take the screen out of a faucet turn the water on and open the faucet, the bread will be expelled and you are done.
It's amazing how they turned the water on and got a full stream right out of the fridge, no air in the line...
I always love/hate drilling test holes. It's like rolling dice in Vegas. You hope it ends up how you want it, but rarely does
I love an ice maker on a fridge. Some drinks are better with ice all year round and we sure run that ice hard in the summer here in Australia.
Wonder why a small ball valve shutoff wasn't used. If going through the trouble, why not use a better shutoff?
Douglas Blake, I was wondering the exact same thing. I've seen more of those gate valves fail and leak than I can remember. As soon as the seals dry out or become tweaked, it's game over for those p.o.s.'s
5/8 X 1/4 angle stop could've worked
@@jasenrock yes you can just don't open it all the way
This is a quaint way of doing things back in yesteryear. Today, you put in a Shark Bite and flexible 1/4 hose and are done in a few minutes. No soldering, No kinking copper pipe that WILL corrode and no worries! PS, have fun trying to solder a copper pipe with water pooling in it using a typical homeowner torch ;-)
"Are you excited girl?" Lol.
I caught that also.....funny and weird.
I just came back to this video after watching it some time in the past. Some idiot had run a saddle valve and 1/4 copper tubing from the sink to the refrigerator and bent it 90 degrees to get around the corner of a cabinet. That's where it broke, of course. This weekend I'll be putting a proper valve in.
I watch TOH for repair/installation advice as a new homeowner and for the nostalgia of when it used to play on the tv as a kid 😅
Love reading the comment section of every TOH video and pointing out the armchair contractors who got triggered.
Its 2019. Filter AND soften your water if necessary. Just use plastic line not copper. A light bungee with a short peice of hose or other material to protect from kinks then attached at the other end to the wall holding extra line and wires upward helps keep things in order while you pull it out and push it back in. Copper has its benefits but it is very sensitive to rusting when contacting other common metals, it work hardens, it kinks.
Rats love plastic
I like that Kitchen, has a nice feel to it.
BTW I have a 55+ y/o saddle valve in my basement and not a speck of rust on it.
Is it connected to anything or still in the package?
@@c0mputer It's soaking in a jar of oil in a cryogenic chamber next to Walt Disney.
This guy is very professional I really like the video
Holy cow have someone knock on the floor while you go into the basement to establish where the hole needs to be drilled. The "poke and hope" method is a rookie move and sooner or later will get you through an electric wire.
Mark B. lol. Or just use a tape measure to precisely determine where the hole should go. smh at such a blatant debacle. It would be funny though to see Richard pierce a gas line. I bet he'd stop using the old "poke and hope" method after that, lol again :D
Yes exactly. As an electrician I rather tap the floor with my Lineman Pliers or hammer to establish where I am with a customer or helper on the phone with me. I've seen helper and apprentices drill through plumbing pipes with Full City Water Pressure. It is a BIG Mistake!
I would have just done 1/4" PEX with a shark bite, shutoff valve at the back of the fridge with a small whip to the fridge and then you have a shutoff above and below. It is far more durable than copper and can't be damaged as easily by work hardening or kinking. And I would take a few measurements before I perforated the floor like that, he came very close to a Romex cable.
briancnc Yikes!
Yeah, I despise people who just drill through flooring without knowing what is under it. We have gadgets that let us see right through walls and floors.
I had the icemaker on my old fridge spring a leak on the back of the fridge where it goes in, old cracked plastic pipe. Luckily I was home when it happened and managed to shut the water off before it made a huge mess and ruined floors. New fridge did not have an ice-maker, I can go buy ice thank you very much.
I'm on the opposite side of this situation. Previous owners bought a new fridge with ice machine. Place the fridge on top of their wood floor. Five year later, I notice it's squishy next to the ice machine I've never used (Culligan water in silicone cube tray in the freezer for me). I find out the wood floor is rotted down to the floor boards right below the ice machine. Since I don't use the ice machine I am in the process of disconnecting the ice maker pipe in the basement so I can move the fridge to a location away from rotted floorboards.
I'd suggest Anti Seize in between bottom saddle valve and copper pipe to prevent corrosion if need to use saddle valve for temporary solution. Or add rubber in between like it has on top.
Wonder if you wrapped the tube w/ fiber tape then installed the saddle valve it would withstand? Also I would also have left about 3 turns of stretch coil w/ 'copper' line behind the fridge.
I like the fact that Jen had safety glasses while using the power tools.
lmao. . I never wear safety glasses
Code in my area (Washington state) requires a hammer arrester on Appliances with automatic valves.
Richard "Full City Water Pressure" Trethewey
Richard "Let Me Show You This Cutaway" Trethewey
Richard "Pipe Dope" Trethewey
I’ve been watching this show for more than 50 years, and now it just seems to be about how much people can spend
It's only been on for 40 years lol
Rich Miranda, I did the math, and you are correct!( it’s more like 42 years, but why be picky). I guess what I meant was, in the beginning, norm and bob would repair a table, or replace the kitchen cabinets. Now, all they seen to do is completely rebuild homes into mega- mansions. This house they did this last season is a perfect example- they took a perfectly good house, essentially took it down to the foundation, and built a new mega-mansion!! All because some yupsters with a pocket full of cash and a(most likely) test tube baby, decided they loved the location, but needed a modern(read: new McMansion)house. This is NOT the this old house that I have watched for all these years. Perhaps it’s time for this old boomer to move on?
@@elfiero50 Yes, you are correct. I've been watching since the 90s and have seen the same. I would guess that it has more to do with TV ratings and competing with some of those other shows.
@elfiero50 Can you repeat that a few more times?
Ooooh the dirty, dreaded saddle valve! Those Autocut tools are amazing!
Im about to replace my line for our fridge, and convert the run to PEX off of a sharkbite T. Originally, its tapped off of the hot side. Talk about a waste of energy! For "clearer" ice cubes...bleh!
Have they ever done plumbing work electrical work where they can't just drill a hole through the floor to the basement? You know, like a slab foundation of something like that?
Here’s a helpful tip... spray paint that “feeler bit” bright pink, green or whatever. So that it’ll stick out like a sore thumb for when you’re looking for it.
Here is a better tip.. If you dont have a LONG "bell hanger" bit.. Cut a length of wire coat hanger, use the straight piece as a bit. And of course Paint the end !!
What if I don’t have a basement?
The problem with the copper is that the more you flex it, the less durable it becomes. Since you’re supposed to move your refrigerator periodically to clean underneath, and other general maintenance, the poly line is the better choice.
So why did he go with cooper?
@@syfodias-jedimaster yeah copper is not good for the avg homeowner they might kink it when pushing it in plastic will kink but will fix it's self but it is really soft so you can brake easily I say best option is 1/4 inch steel braided hose but you can't hide it behind a wall you have to run a pipe to the back of the fridges than put the hose in
@@Vanilla_Icecream1231 thanks Just had problem with copper one. Replaced with plastic for now.
All bs. Copper is the best but what Richard didnt show you is the copper line coiled in big loops behind the frig.
@@genemyersmyers6710 exactly not all home owners know that what your sopposed to do I said it's good but what I mean is if you wory about kinks and strength the best inbetween is then flex stainless steel hose
Richard, I have a valve box mounted on the wall. That valve failed. What would you suggest to replace it? Same as before or something else. Then I have an S.S. braided hose which connects from this box & valve to the back of the fridge. I'm afraid this hose could crimp when the fridge is rolled back? How can I avoid this problem. Thanks
Good job. I like this better then running the line through the cabinets to access water under the link. Question: did you ream the pipe?
3:30 My wife just asked me what I was watching. She heard this. Then said, it better not be Redtube!
2:00 imo NEVER drill more than an inch (or 2" if kitchen has thick floor) so you don't hit wire, gas pipe, water line, HVAC, etc. Drill just enough to put hole
Is it safe to just drill into a floor. The shot at 2:30 showed it was right next to a wire. And the electricity was still on because the lights on in the room behind Rebecca at 2:41.
yeah its safe, the electric shocks are just there to tell you that you are doing a good job
Little shock never hurt no one
jake williams that tinkle tells you its working.
There is just no way around it in many cases and tradesmen do it all the time i know I do and 120v is not the problem its 220v that has the highest chance of killing you so if you go to the breaker and shut off any 220v circuits then the most you can expect is a tingle and extra work/cost
I avoid it, but it's not that likely for something really bad to happen since they knew it was an open basement. Your drill bit would have to be extremely sharp to pierce both insulations of the wire without you noticing, unless it is pinned against the floor you're drilling into (which is unlikely since you don't normally attach wires to the bottom of the sub-floor, you do it to the joists). Plus, for you to hit and pierce the the wire, you would have to hit it somewhere towards the center (the bit would push the wires and slip off the side otherwise). So, in addition to hitting the hot line, it would also hit ground, which would immediately trip the breaker from the short, and that's where the current is going, not you. Sure, there's a spark from that, and that could technically cause a fire, but it would have to be very dry sawdust or paper right next to the wire to even have a chance of starting a fire.
Is there a porch above her game room? Seems odd to have loose fill insulation in a joist cavity that isn't along the rim.
Won't this copper line eventually bust if you move the fridge too many times back and forth? Or if the fridge bends the line in the wrong way while pushing it in? wouldn't it be better to use braided stainless steel hose instead?
You did it like a pro, I like it. What about the water filter.
Nice job. And you got to have bigger dreams.
I installed reverse osmosis system under my sink and then connected my fridge to this system using 1/4" plastic pipe. Nothing difficult. As result I have clear ice without any smell and taste.
How convenient the water line is right under. Never seems to work that way in the real world.
Did for me today lol
For a kitchen fridge a line is likely close by, feeding the kitchen sink, dishwasher.
I agree. Try installing one in Florida on a slab where your Fridge is not connected to the sink by cabinets, it's on a completely different wall. Do a show like that once.
Yeah my nearest water connection was on the opposite side of the kitchen. Single storey house on a slab. Had to run the piping around and underneath all of the kitchen cabinets
@Lan Anh Hoang Thi you need a carpenter/ contractor that has a plumber they use. Then that job can get done
Great video and even better timing. I was actually thinking about doing this in one of my units yesterday.
Great... just did a hole under my house and do that. Try it on a slab home with no water the wall that fridge is in!
Water coming to the fridge is like man discovering fire.
Would have tested the water before pushing the fridge back in. Add a second shut off valve behind the fridge, then you wouldn’t have to go down to shutoff the water. Then a pex line from that valve to the fridge. Like copper but too the fridge the pex works better.
For cripe's sakes, use a braided stainless-steel ice-maker FLEX LINE. Only use copper if you are wanting leaks later on.
And don't pull a monster unit refrigerator/freezer like this over a wooden/laminate floor, unless you'd like to DAMAGE it! Put down some clean 1/4" fiberboard or special appliance plastic protective sheeting FIRST!
Come over to my house in Cali and see if you can work the same magic over here?
The copper pipe at the back of the frig needs a strain relief attachment to the frig.
sptrader What would that be, a way of attaching the tubing to the frig such that when you move the frig out no force is put on the fitting itself?
Frig Back In The 80's and 90's Had 1/4" Clamp About A Foot High From Water Valve To Keep Tubing From Breaking Off At The Valve...
@@bigpardner Yes
What he should have done was install a refrigerator water supply box in the wall. This puts the valve for the water supply right behind the refrigerator. Then use a braided burst protected stainless steel ice maker supply line. It's more flexible than the copper and will never kink, or fatigue from too much bending. Then you just screw the supply line to the valve at the box and the controlled valve at the fridge.
George Moorachian, yeah but that's only if your not stuck in the 70's when it comes to work habits. Not to mention even if you still wanted another shut-off valve located in the basement, it really should be a 1/4 turn ball valve instead of the p.o.s. gate valve he used at the 3:50 mark. It will leak as soon as the seals dry out or become tweaked.
Oh and have we covered the fact that he could have easily pierced a gas, water or electrical line when he blindly probed down into the floor with his drill bit? Lol
I've got a 1/4 turn valve in the basement, too. It's good to have a good plumber.
First, Kevin gets help with wallpaper removal.
Next, Tommy fixes Richard's staircase carpet.
Now Richard is helping out Jen.
Who's next?
Was Kevin's wallpaper before or after he became host? He had 1 episode before but it also seems like he had some help with some built ins at one point iirc. Also jenn has had a couple of things done I think
@@nick4leader Kevin became host after his wallpaper episode
I'd like to fix Jen's carpet.
Nice house here kiddo. That's sweet
Putting a braided stainless steel icemaker line would be far more superior than that copper kink waiting to happen
I think I would have looked for power or water lines or anything that the drill bit could’ve hit before I drove it just anywhere in the floor but that’s just me
Had a guy drill through the floor into the cellar. He hit the 220 line. Knocked him on his butt.
Where did you get that sweat 1/2" X 1/4" comp. vertical shut off valve? I can find that any where.
You forgot to attach the copper line to the ref. with a clip so there’s less tension on the tubing where the valve is attached to the ref. when moving it in and out for cleaning and maintenance.
Can't believe the guy used a stop valve and not a quarter turn ball valve!
a salesman told me that it's better to have an icemaker in the door as opposed to in the fridge body (inside). He said it had to do with warm air floating around inside of fridge can cause the ice to melt a little , whereas in the door it has dedicated vents to keep it colder. Is this true ? or is it a line of BS ?
I thought that you would put a drain line so if the fridge needed to drain or you overflow the water area it could drain so water doesn't get all over the floor?
I doubt anyone ever puts in a drain line for a fridge line hook up. The problem with that is trying to guess where the water would leak or "over flow" from. It could happen anywhere between the shut-off valve and back of the fridge hook up. When they do leak, they usually spray, so trying to devise a drain line that could capture water from a random spray would practically be futile.
Just paid a plumber $$$ for this in the basement but instead of a screw valve, which could be a source of problems, he installed a quarter-turn on-off valve which definitely takes less effort to turn off the water supply e.g. when changing refrigerator water filters. Also, apparently, local code requires the shut-off valve NOT to be in the basement but somewhere in the kitchen (the plumber thought to tap the cold water from the kitchen sink and run it to the refrigerator far away but too $$$$). Some would also put the shut off valve behind the refrigerator as well.
5:58 that is a cool bucket of ice
LOL.He did not mention to look below before drilling through the floor so to ensure he did not drill into electric wires.
Also he never showed pushing the fridge back into place while kinking the new copper water line. That is why 99% of people use the new poly flexible lines.
Not an installer I would use.
Can you please tell me why is that you used a brass ring with a nut at 4:39 instead of a flare fitting? Wouldn't the flare fitting along with the bras ring would have been a better option?
just like a saddle valve is illegal, these days most states require the shutoff valve on the same level as the appliance and appliance delivery services will refuse to install on lines set up like this. Best bet is to run 1/2 in copper or PEX directly behind your appliance with a 1/4 turn shutoff valve on the end.
Full city water pressure.
Oh the luxurious basement (I hate crawlspaces lol)
I just installed new fridge .. water comes out of the water dispenser unit really good. But the ice maker is not filling up with water confused
He should have flushed the water after soldering before connecting it to the refrigerator. Then he should have added an inline filter to remove all the garbage you don't want in your water and ice. Most newer refrigerators with the ice dispenser already have an internal filter cartridge that is easy to remove, but those filters costs 3-5 times as much as an inline filter that goes on the water supply line to the refrigerator. Also, the factory filters that come with the new frig need to be replaced every 6 months, and most inline filters last for 1 year.
Seems like it would have been better to run a rigid copper line to a shut off connected to a flexible steel braided hose for the final connection to the fridge. But hey what do I know
She pours water for him to drink him places it on counter and walk out 😂😂 I’m not drinking this without flushing that new line
This was WONDERFUL. However my issue is a lil different. ENJOYED watching z
Great video thank you for sharing.
Must be nice having access to the water lines in the basement. The southern US isnt so lucky
6:04 And here I was thinking only computer guys were bad with human interactions. That awkward handshake would make any IT guy very, very proud
Why no flexible tubing from the fridge to the copper line?
Hey This Old House I have a quick question for you when you do any soldering or any of that have you guys ever caught the house on fire
Chuck Mac I'm sure if they did they wouldn't admit it. Lol
@@aaroncottingham4048 Chuck Mc, I'm also wondering if Richard has ever pierced a gas, water or electric line while using his old "poke and hope" method of locating between floor levels. Lol
If They Did, It Can Edited Out...
I don't know about that I have my little valve sticking on the existing water line pipe from my sink I already change 4 refrigerators since 1999 and I still have that little valve with not leaking at all🤔🤔🤗
Enjoy your leaking copper piper when you push your fridge back and crease the pipe.
Why connect below the cut off valve rather than above?
"Don't kink it!"
"I won't!"
They sound like a married couple.
I was getting ready to do this job. From many bad experiences I hate those valves,!!!! Nothing but a headache. No reason not to use a ball valve! They just work and don't leak. The few pennies saved isn't worth it.
Now do this in Puerto Rico with concrete floors
Any thoughts?? Ihave seen copper like that turn green inside.
Instructions unclear now I'm King of the North and the Night King is trying to kill me.
What about water hammering?
I would have installed the cut off valve so it was easier to shut off , not on top also no discussion about water filter for refrigerator
I'm sure Richard would've used Pex if the house was plumbed with it. Since it was plumbed with copper I assume he used it for convenience, therefore he wouldn't have to adapt.
Elliot moye, actually he could have just as conveniently used the nylon line. He said he just liked the copper for it's "durability", but it's only durable against mice chewing through it. It's not durable for sliding the fridge in and out- in fact it will kink and break easily.