Hi Dave. I saw that your oil filter holder you purchased has a check valve built into it. It is the black thing when you look into the inlet side. I suspect there is a certain amount of pressure required to lift that off, so with that required small amount of pressure, and the flow rate of the pump, 10 psi is an expected amount of back pressure. It might also drop once the oil gets up to operating temperature.
since installing the filter, the oil pressure has gone up just a bit, but it is still within 5 - 10 p.s.i. going to wait till it is over 10 p.s.i all the time, then change the filter and cut it open, i want to see how much stuff is inside. hydraulic oil gauge still looks clean and white, so it must be filtering....
I just finished my filter plus oil cooler project on an H12 (tank in different spot than yours) and I think it will help. you have so much more room on the left side for the filter, I would have put it there to give more working room and space from the engine. easier to change the filter too. for the banjo connector, you don't need to have the bolt hole line up with the hose opening, the fluid flows around the bolt in the open space in the banjo portion. its omnidirectional, its more important to have the right tourqe on the bolt for proper seal than alignment. I love my machine, keep it up! I just came in from installing 3/8 flat face quick connects on mine to prep for a tilting bucket!
Thanks for the info : This is my first time working with hydraulics. I do have the option of installing longer hoses, and moving the filter - main thing was finding the proper connectors for the machine ! Yup. Already informed about the banjo fitting, but it couldn't hurt being aligned... They are good little machines.
Did not know what kind of return oil pressure i would be dealing with, using a 3/4 inch hose gives the oil a larger area to fill, slowing the flow, and dropping the pressure before he filter.
At 2:00 minutes, You are probably not going to get what you want. There are several factors involved. 1.These various filters and even the mounting heads have bypass features inside them that could be bypassing as low as 5psi. It could be as high as 50psi, or possibly even "NO" bypass is possible, but probably 5 psi ( at 12:15 ), is where I think yours is bypassing, cold oil, fast flow, only 5-7 psi on the scale? IDK, I could be wrong, I don't know what your mounting head bypass is set for. You need to research your exact part numbers. You did not include your entire shopping list. Maybe you can update the video description area to include all of your major items? 2. If your parts selection allows any opportunity at 5, 15, or even 50 psi of bypass, you might find that almost all of your oil flow will be in bypass mode, it is just too thick, (unless it is so hot that it is watery thin), to get through the media, (your, P551551, is 7micron cellulous), at the speed in which it is flowing through the system. You now have created a mini kidney filter system for your mini excavator! I don't think that was your intent. 3. Your filter selection is cellulous, which is a media type that is incompatible with vegetable based hydraulic oils, Do you know what kind of base material your oil is made from? Plants? or Petroleum? Chinesium? you need to know! Some hydraulic oil is vegetable oil. Maybe get a test? IDK, I'm waiting on my 1st test on oil that has/is 20 minutes runtime/old. 4. You can look at the Donaldson website or google search for "Donaldson Hydraulic Filtration Product Guide", 290 pages of filtration goodness. I am trying to do exactly what you are doing and my research so far has revealed these exact questions to be answered, to get my final results on my mini ex. Why not add a cooler now at this time as well? Supposedly this oil can get to 300 deg (smoking hot), maybe more? Thanks for making this video. Good Luck with your endeavor.
Just looked up the specifications for this filter head, and the bypass pressure on all models they sell are set too 25 p.s.i Thanks for the info, will habe too see what happens when it gets too that point.
He might have an adequate filter inside the tank on the return side like mine has, so if the spin on filter is bypassed the filter that comes with the machine will filter the oil.
I do have an in tank oil filter screen - as show in my previous oil change video. For now i will keep an eye on it, when the gauge gets close to 20 p.s.i - i can cut open the filter and see what it looks like inside.
No amount of paper element filters will give you what you are looking for. This application requires a oil pressure powered centrifugal filter. This will filter wildly beyond what an element filter can ever hope to achieve.
After a quick google search, i do agree that a centrifugal would probably do a better job, but at a cost of 600 $ just for the filter.... Paper is doing fine. 😁
@@youcandoitdave6058 yeah but.....if your going to filter your hydraulic oil all the paper elements in the world wont remove the bits that are doing the damage. and also the water that gets into systems. the filter is reusable and all you do is plumb it straight into your main hydraulic pressure (depending on model of filter).
good job dave! We have the same model😏 It's a good reference for DIYers.
Hi Dave. I saw that your oil filter holder you purchased has a check valve built into it. It is the black thing when you look into the inlet side. I suspect there is a certain amount of pressure required to lift that off, so with that required small amount of pressure, and the flow rate of the pump, 10 psi is an expected amount of back pressure. It might also drop once the oil gets up to operating temperature.
since installing the filter, the oil pressure has gone up just a bit, but it is still within 5 - 10 p.s.i.
going to wait till it is over 10 p.s.i all the time, then change the filter and cut it open, i want to see how much stuff is inside.
hydraulic oil gauge still looks clean and white, so it must be filtering....
Isn’t there already a filter in the tank?
I just finished my filter plus oil cooler project on an H12 (tank in different spot than yours) and I think it will help. you have so much more room on the left side for the filter, I would have put it there to give more working room and space from the engine. easier to change the filter too. for the banjo connector, you don't need to have the bolt hole line up with the hose opening, the fluid flows around the bolt in the open space in the banjo portion. its omnidirectional, its more important to have the right tourqe on the bolt for proper seal than alignment. I love my machine, keep it up! I just came in from installing 3/8 flat face quick connects on mine to prep for a tilting bucket!
Thanks for the info :
This is my first time working with hydraulics.
I do have the option of installing longer hoses, and moving the filter - main thing was finding the proper connectors for the machine !
Yup. Already informed about the banjo fitting, but it couldn't hurt being aligned...
They are good little machines.
I need some photos I bought a new one also and want to install filter assembly out
@ hyd tank
NPT 1/2 in has id of 12.54mm the DIN 15L has a 12mm ID so I don't think you would lose any flow
Did not know what kind of return oil pressure i would be dealing with, using a 3/4 inch hose gives the oil a larger area to fill, slowing the flow, and dropping the pressure before he filter.
At 2:00 minutes, You are probably not going to get what you want. There are several factors involved. 1.These various filters and even the mounting heads have bypass features inside them that could be bypassing as low as 5psi. It could be as high as 50psi, or possibly even "NO" bypass is possible, but probably 5 psi ( at 12:15 ), is where I think yours is bypassing, cold oil, fast flow, only 5-7 psi on the scale? IDK, I could be wrong, I don't know what your mounting head bypass is set for. You need to research your exact part numbers. You did not include your entire shopping list. Maybe you can update the video description area to include all of your major items? 2. If your parts selection allows any opportunity at 5, 15, or even 50 psi of bypass, you might find that almost all of your oil flow will be in bypass mode, it is just too thick, (unless it is so hot that it is watery thin), to get through the media, (your, P551551, is 7micron cellulous), at the speed in which it is flowing through the system. You now have created a mini kidney filter system for your mini excavator! I don't think that was your intent. 3. Your filter selection is cellulous, which is a media type that is incompatible with vegetable based hydraulic oils, Do you know what kind of base material your oil is made from? Plants? or Petroleum? Chinesium? you need to know! Some hydraulic oil is vegetable oil. Maybe get a test? IDK, I'm waiting on my 1st test on oil that has/is 20 minutes runtime/old. 4. You can look at the Donaldson website or google search for "Donaldson Hydraulic Filtration Product Guide", 290 pages of filtration goodness. I am trying to do exactly what you are doing and my research so far has revealed these exact questions to be answered, to get my final results on my mini ex. Why not add a cooler now at this time as well? Supposedly this oil can get to 300 deg (smoking hot), maybe more? Thanks for making this video. Good Luck with your endeavor.
Thank you for the information, i will look into this...
Just looked up the specifications for this filter head, and the bypass pressure on all models they sell are set too 25 p.s.i
Thanks for the info, will habe too see what happens when it gets too that point.
He might have an adequate filter inside the tank on the return side like mine has, so if the spin on filter is bypassed the filter that comes with the machine will filter the oil.
I do have an in tank oil filter screen - as show in my previous oil change video.
For now i will keep an eye on it, when the gauge gets close to 20 p.s.i - i can cut open the filter and see what it looks like inside.
@@youcandoitdave6058 excellent idea.
No amount of paper element filters will give you what you are looking for.
This application requires a oil pressure powered centrifugal filter.
This will filter wildly beyond what an element filter can ever hope to achieve.
After a quick google search, i do agree that a centrifugal would probably do a better job, but at a cost of 600 $ just for the filter....
Paper is doing fine. 😁
@@youcandoitdave6058 yeah but.....if your going to filter your hydraulic oil all the paper elements in the world wont remove the bits that are doing the damage. and also the water that gets into systems. the filter is reusable and all you do is plumb it straight into your main hydraulic pressure (depending on model of filter).