J/C from a newb. My deck that came w the house has butt joints a many & I need to replace some of them. I will be using the Camo system but will there be any home inspector or deck coding issues w cribbing w the 1.5 inch pieces at the butt joints or is this considered a more sound method than sharing a butt joint w two boards ? Thanks.
If your cribbing is secured well (potentially with metal brackets) you should be fine. When in doubt, call your local planning/inspection department and ask. Mine is very helpful and would much rather answer a question in advance than fail an inspection.
So far they seem to be as strong. The deck has been down for over a year in weather from -5F to 105F, gets 8 hours of direct sun every day, and no boards are loose or creaking. I also didn't split any of the pressure treated boards as I ran the screws in - something that I can never seem to say when face screwing without pre-drilling. I cannot attest to running these into tropical hardwoods like acacia or ipee - I've never done it. For me, my only complaint has been how much my pressure treated boards shrank as they finished drying after install.
@@jasonkraus2831 I had bought the camo pro and screws. When I bought my wood(red balu) I asked the guys at the warehouse what they thought. I am using 1 x 6 and they said to use face screws...that the hidden camo do not hold enough of the wood....so that is the route i went.
@@jasonkraus2831 so when i went to buy my decking(1 x 6) locally I asked the guy what he thought he said he did not think screwing in from the side held as well and recommended just bugle flats thru the top so thats what I will do.
@@paochino6973 Like I said I just did the old fashioned way cause more than a few who do decks told me they just don't hold as well makes sense...Also...I had probably 300 boards to tie down, had two guys helping me. If i would have used the camo it would have been really a lot slower IMO, For me there was a lot of custom cutting and adjusting as the deck was not square...so it really would have slowed things down...and honestly...a year or more later...I don't mind that the screw heads show...they are countersunk...I really don't notice and if i ever need to do a repair it seems it will be easier to do...just my two cents...don't overthink it.
They were a combo of face screwed and angled in with the Camo tool. So the ones on the inside of the frame had angled camo screws and then I face screwed down through the top for the outside of the frame boards.
Each board has shrunk an 1/8 on each side (so they've opened up by a quarter of an inch). Not ideal for some, but the shrink also didn't break any screws loose. My FIL built a deck at the same time and face screwed his boards and about 1 in 4 have sheered off due to wood shrinking.
@@jasonkraus2831 thanks for the response. I had to remove some boards that I recently put down and a lot of screws (deck mate) broke right off. I’m guessing that the wood drying out was the culprit. They’re all screwed down on the face, so I’m leaning towards the Camo system now. I just don’t want the 1/8” gap to turn into 1/2” gap when the wood shrinks because the screws go in on the sides. Did you have to tighten any screws once the wood dries?
Yes - I did put the blocks end grain up. That may not be the best decision for overall wood durability but the deck has been stained and will continue to be protected from rot. You should see also that I do have these ends landing on a full width joist or cripple at all times. Good luck on your projects..
No treatment on cut ends?end grain up on blockin?and I see all kinds of gap wobble....other then that,nice job.....
Should have turned your cribbing pieces..........screws do not hold well in end grain.
J/C from a newb. My deck that came w the house has butt joints a many & I need to replace some of them. I will be using the Camo system but will there be any home inspector or deck coding issues w cribbing w the 1.5 inch pieces at the butt joints or is this considered a more sound method than sharing a butt joint w two boards ? Thanks.
If your cribbing is secured well (potentially with metal brackets) you should be fine. When in doubt, call your local planning/inspection department and ask. Mine is very helpful and would much rather answer a question in advance than fail an inspection.
Why not buy correct length deck boards and not need any cribbing?
I really didn't feel like paying for 24' lumber. Not sure why this is a question...
Are they are strong as face screws, and is it true...no pre-drilling required even for tropical hardwood?
So far they seem to be as strong. The deck has been down for over a year in weather from -5F to 105F, gets 8 hours of direct sun every day, and no boards are loose or creaking. I also didn't split any of the pressure treated boards as I ran the screws in - something that I can never seem to say when face screwing without pre-drilling.
I cannot attest to running these into tropical hardwoods like acacia or ipee - I've never done it. For me, my only complaint has been how much my pressure treated boards shrank as they finished drying after install.
@@jasonkraus2831 I had bought the camo pro and screws. When I bought my wood(red balu) I asked the guys at the warehouse what they thought. I am using 1 x 6 and they said to use face screws...that the hidden camo do not hold enough of the wood....so that is the route i went.
@@jasonkraus2831 so when i went to buy my decking(1 x 6) locally I asked the guy what he thought he said he did not think screwing in from the side held as well and recommended just bugle flats thru the top so thats what I will do.
If you could do it all over again, would you still use the Camo, and where the gap’s bigger than you wanted after the wood shrank?
@@paochino6973 Like I said I just did the old fashioned way cause more than a few who do decks told me they just don't hold as well makes sense...Also...I had probably 300 boards to tie down, had two guys helping me. If i would have used the camo it would have been really a lot slower IMO, For me there was a lot of custom cutting and adjusting as the deck was not square...so it really would have slowed things down...and honestly...a year or more later...I don't mind that the screw heads show...they are countersunk...I really don't notice and if i ever need to do a repair it seems it will be easier to do...just my two cents...don't overthink it.
How did you attach your framing boards around the edges?
They were a combo of face screwed and angled in with the Camo tool. So the ones on the inside of the frame had angled camo screws and then I face screwed down through the top for the outside of the frame boards.
@@jasonkraus2831 thank you.
How bad was the gap when the wood seasoned?
Each board has shrunk an 1/8 on each side (so they've opened up by a quarter of an inch). Not ideal for some, but the shrink also didn't break any screws loose. My FIL built a deck at the same time and face screwed his boards and about 1 in 4 have sheered off due to wood shrinking.
@@jasonkraus2831 thanks for the response. I had to remove some boards that I recently put down and a lot of screws (deck mate) broke right off. I’m guessing that the wood drying out was the culprit. They’re all screwed down on the face, so I’m leaning towards the Camo system now. I just don’t want the 1/8” gap to turn into 1/2” gap when the wood shrinks because the screws go in on the sides. Did you have to tighten any screws once the wood dries?
Haven't tightened a single screw since I built it.@@hawaiiantimes7702
No matter what type of fastener you use, butt ends need to lay on the full 1 1/2" of a joist or cleat. You put the cleats the wrong side up.
Yes - I did put the blocks end grain up. That may not be the best decision for overall wood durability but the deck has been stained and will continue to be protected from rot. You should see also that I do have these ends landing on a full width joist or cripple at all times.
Good luck on your projects..