I thought the beveled side on the gasket goes up not down so when you tighten it down it curves over the pipe? Also after you tighten it down how do you cut the riser or pipe coming up? Agree on making sure it doesn't leak especially on multi-level! Not only deal with lower floor tenants but now you may have mold issues and may need to pay for mold remediation. I won't do tubs/showers that aren't on the main level for that reason!
Yes I was wrong,I went over that in prior comments, good eye and thanks for watching my friend. I use an inside cutter on a drill to finish cut the 2" pipe. I guess I have been installing that gasket upside down for my whole career and never had a leak,as long as it is compressed it will work.
Thanks John, great idea. I use clear silicone over putty in most cases for drains and pop ups, etc. It provides lubrication while it it uncured and fills the gaps uniformly. Never had a leak of problem call back. I have gone back for fixture changes years later and once the initial seal is broken, removal and cleanup was a snap. I use GE kitchen and bath type, not an RTV. I will be making that tool. Thanks again.
I have not agreed with auto industry as kinda the same way as you need to make your own tool(S). I love it because you have more contact surface to the teeth's ring. Question; Exact same brass drain & fiberglass shower stall but what wrench it used to tighten the bottom nut with the drain to shower seals? It has 4 ears at 90 degrees apart as one gasket has deteriorated and movement between the floor while drain remains still! I have some access to this main floor shower thru a basement service panel of 5/16" plastic sheet, painted and screwed to plywood strips I put around the edges 20 some years ago. We have owned since 1993, house built in 1980. It is like a huge basin wrench to grab those tiny lugs. Sub-floor is open to see as 6" hole but 2 1/2" up until the drain. Maybe I will channel your skills and build a 1/2 to 3/4 open socket to rotate. I would use plumbers putty on shower side then tighten as this is the leak and not the inner ring. Thoughts? Thank you very much. DK, retired ASE auto tech.
Man I hate them drain dropping keys…I did have a machinist friend of mine let me use his equipment and I made a similar PVC key you made in metal back about 15 years ago!!!
I like your tool idea. The drain manufacturers specify that the bevel on the gasket goes up, not down.
Oatley told be flat side down
I always love when I am trying to fix something, and I need to make a tool to do the job, and it works like a charm . That was a great idea 💡 Jhon.
You bet!
I thought the beveled side on the gasket goes up not down so when you tighten it down it curves over the pipe? Also after you tighten it down how do you cut the riser or pipe coming up?
Agree on making sure it doesn't leak especially on multi-level! Not only deal with lower floor tenants but now you may have mold issues and may need to pay for mold remediation. I won't do tubs/showers that aren't on the main level for that reason!
Yes I was wrong,I went over that in prior comments, good eye and thanks for watching my friend. I use an inside cutter on a drill to finish cut the 2" pipe. I guess I have been installing that gasket upside down for my whole career and never had a leak,as long as it is compressed it will work.
You're definitely right on the bevel side up, Oatey doesn't engineer this for nothing. This guy shows costly mistakes to DIY folks!
Thanks John, great idea.
I use clear silicone over putty in most cases for drains and pop ups, etc. It provides lubrication while it it uncured and fills the gaps uniformly. Never had a leak of problem call back. I have gone back for fixture changes years later and once the initial seal is broken, removal and cleanup was a snap.
I use GE kitchen and bath type, not an RTV.
I will be making that tool. Thanks again.
Wow. Nice tool
flat side goes up? It says right on the gasket that the angled side is up. The flat side is to sit flat on the bottom of the brass.
Love your brass nut tool
Tricks of the Trade. Excellent idea. Subscribers will pour in, and they have a "thanks" button when you become monetized. People better give thanks.
Exactly what I needed to know. Thanks John!
Question…what type of grease do you use that won’t wear out the rubber?
Awesome idea!
Thanks,
Easy to make,just take your time.
hell yeah!💯
When tightened, does this lift the tub up at all at the drain if there is no flex downward for the drain
I have not agreed with auto industry as kinda the same way as you need to make your own tool(S). I love it because you have more contact surface to the teeth's ring.
Question; Exact same brass drain & fiberglass shower stall but what wrench it used to tighten the bottom nut with the drain to shower seals? It has 4 ears at 90 degrees apart as one gasket has deteriorated and movement between the floor while drain remains still!
I have some access to this main floor shower thru a basement service panel of 5/16" plastic sheet, painted and screwed to plywood strips I put around the edges 20 some years ago. We have owned since 1993, house built in 1980. It is like a huge basin wrench to grab those tiny lugs.
Sub-floor is open to see as 6" hole but 2 1/2" up until the drain. Maybe I will channel your skills and build a 1/2 to 3/4 open socket to rotate. I would use plumbers putty on shower side then tighten as this is the leak and not the inner ring. Thoughts?
Thank you very much.
DK, retired ASE auto tech.
Man I hate them drain dropping keys…I did have a machinist friend of mine let me use his equipment and I made a similar PVC key you made in metal back about 15 years ago!!!
Thanks
Good day John how you doing. Great channel man. Your helping out me.and alot of guys you da best man
We call these a squeeze drain