Good luck with finding a roof leak and by the time you do there will be more than 1 board to replace. Plywood even more . Why not pull attic floor and add 2x4 to the top of each floor joist re-install floor then insulate. Install soffit insulation and ridge vent. Make sure that you have 6' of ice and water shield under shingles. Oh I forgot... that doesn't sell foam insulation .
I've been a builder for many years and have seen quite a fair bit of sheds. The plans in ryan's package czcams.com/users/postUgkxB7IXYxLzb_Ichhe45zM3Im5xfEiSp9vB have some of the nicest looking sheds i've seen in a while.
When I contacted Owens Corning about air under the shingles, they said if you spray like this, you will shorten the life of the shingles on the outside of the house. Air damns need installed from soffit to ridge vent, then cover with insulation. This allows air to move via convection from the soffit up through the ridge vent, keeping the shingles cooler and getting the max life out of the shingles.
If you're looking to prevent ice dams air seal the floor in your attic. Light fixtures, interior walls, plumbing stacks, bathroom vents, etc. You don't need to spray 2-lb foam to the underside of your roof deck unless you want the attic to be conditioned space.
I am still learning in my 26 years of working through so many types of roof problems. The solution always depends on many variables. Unfortunately the way we build tends to lead to all sorts of problems for which solutions vary.
I agree with everything that you said, but I am not a fan of spray foam. I would have screwed 1x3 or 2x4 (home owners choice, I have done both) horizontal 16 inch on center. Installed rafter mates (tunnels) and installed insulation then drywall. Also you must have vented soffits and a ridge vent or gable vents. Problem solved
I find even a well insulated home has ice dams. Mine seem to occur when there’s snow on the roof and then the sun comes out. Even on very cold days there’s snow melt and then when the sun shine stops we get freezing eventually if we haven’t had a substantial warming to melt everything off the roof an ice dam forms. How do we battle these?
I swear, 15-30 years from now there's going to be commercials on TV of a lady asking if you or a loved one has been around spray foam insulation resulting in cancer and to give them a call for a cut of the compensation. It's going to be right up there with mesothelioma/asbestos.
Closed cell spray foam is safe AFTER it fully cures IF it was installed perfectly and properly. If the ratios are slightly off or the installer tries to go too thick on their passes, it's big trouble!
With closed-cell spray foam being a vapor barrier, are you worried about moisture getting trapped between the roof deck and spray foam? If so, it would rot out the roof decking.
Well once you replace your roof and possibly your roof sheathing all that spray in insulation will come out with the old sheathing. Would never do that. All u do is install roof insulation baffles and leave a min of 1 inch air gap behind insulation to roof sheathing. This makes sure the air behind insulation stays cool with air flow from soffit vents to ridge cap still working
Insulation is important but the water doesn't stop at the bottom edge of the roof, it stops in the gutters and freezes. It builds up in the gutters until it reaches the top of the facial board. Then the ice crawls into the gap that is between the top of the facial board and the roof deck, then it fills up the soffit, then enters the house. When it reaches warm air it turns to water. Even if it gets under the shingles there is ice barrier at the bottom edge not felt paper. Code in any snowy region is two passes of ice barrier at the bottom edge of the roof then felt paper the rest of the way, anything under a 4/12 pitch gets completely covered in ice shield/barrier. To prevent this from happening you need to remove the gutter, install new ice barrier but this time leave 3 inches of ice barrier hanging over the bottom edge. This then gets folded down over the facial board or aluminum then install the gutter over the ice barrier closing the gap between the top of the facial board and roof deck. That's the correct way. It's all about doing it right in the first place.
Great for those of us that own old 1 1/2 story homes but what about air flow under the roof? Should there not be a baffle so air flow can come up from the soffet and out the roof vent or was this because there was no real attic
Because of the properties of closed cell spray foam, this technique is both acceptable and a good solution. Another aspect is to keep the interior humidity down (RH). The risk of water vapor condensing on the underside of the roof sheathing is extremely low and depends on the climate zone. Many types of unvented techniques do work if they're done correctly and the climate zone is factored in.
Well once you replace your roof and possibly your roof sheathing all that spray in insulation will come out with the old sheathing. Would never do that. All u do is install roof insulation baffles and leave a min of 1 inch air gap behind insulation to roof sheathing. This makes sure the air behind insulation stays cool with air flow from soffit vents to ridge cap still working
Something to watch for when it comes to these companies that use spray insulation, is that they often "fluff" the insulation in. For example ...when you're looking at adding 10 lbs. of insulation, what they often do is use only 5 lbs., and then charge you for that 10 lbs.
Well once you replace your roof and possibly your roof sheathing all that spray in insulation will come out with the old sheathing. Would never do that. All u do is install roof insulation baffles and leave a min of 1 inch air gap behind insulation to roof sheathing. This makes sure the air behind insulation stays cool with air flow from soffit vents to ridge cap still working
I wonder if any bumps created under the shingles because of expanding foam. There must be some gaps on the roof deck where foam expanded towards outside.
Ahhaaa you know that barrier gets hundreds of nails go thru it when shingles installed. If you believe all the holes self seals than you probably still believe in Santa.
You need 2 inch gap on the rafters for ventilation from the soffits. You can then apply your insulation. Just a matter time for the wood boards to be rotten.
A bit late to comment, but yes it will help assuming that the attic floor is air tight to the house. The huge danger is that rain/snow can easily blow through an open window even with a screen, so a gable vent with 45deg fins would be the permanent solution.
Fiberglass insulation on top of a leaky floor in the attic may do nothing but redirect air leakage to the eaves, making the dams worse. Conflating air sealing with insulation is perpetuating dogma. Nice lesson on Ice Dams but incomplete. Wish they'd done a better job distinguishing between stack driven air leakage and heat loss. Redefining attics with foam is a FANTASTIC home improvement - If you have comfort issues this is likely to significantly improve comfort in the rest of your house too. Overfilling 2lb foam and shaving is overkill imo. Folks, most of your performance problems are due to air leakage, not insulation levels.
Spray foam most certainly is a do it yourself job. They sell rather large kits of the 2 part mix for this. It is indeed marketed directly to homeowners, and it's not that difficult. TOH is supposed to be a do it yourself show but it seems like mostly they just say "hire a guy". This was a big job and maybe better hired out, but you can definitely do smaller areas quite easily and relatively low cost.
Spray foam like that just tickles me the wrong way.. what if they install it wrong and some of the foam doesn't set and cure? What if I get a roof leak, how will I find it before it become a problem? There has to be a better way. I don't like permanent spray foam.
The thermal bridging is very minimal but you could do the XPS if you want to get crazy. They're in such a tiny space that it seems already so overkill.
Question... None of the wood in my home walls are vented. They are sealed in tight, wrapped in foam insulation outside and then with vinyl and inside with drywall and years worth of non-breathable paint. Why don't these studs rot?
UK houses... disgrace to every builder in this world. Also lack of education in the trade result in all this damp, cold, inefficient brick and mortar cavity crap you call a house.
Talk about Over Kill! Reg. 6" Insulation in the Floor with a 6 Mill Plastic Sheeting stapled down, seals any air leaks. Top Off the Floor with simple 1/2" Ext.GradeSheeting for a Finished and safe floor ..Vent the Attic! With Gable End Vents + Mushroom Vents in the Roof every 5 ft.. Has been good enough for decades!
If just going to use it as a Heated Storeage space & Lite duty use Room? Just get Approved Electrical installed by a Union IBEW guy.. to Spray Liquid Foam, cost about $3000.Installing a 6" thick Radiant Foam ... But I would install my own Closed Cell Barrier Panels is another Option) Cut and Fit inbtwn the Rafters would be 50% Cheaper..Top it off with a Drywall Ceiling and good to go.and can do it yourself !
Lots of comments about whether this was the right thing to do or not. I only have two words about this project. Thermal bridging. In the north, it's an issue.
Wow. There are a lot of people commenting here that are really ignorant about how this system works. They want to keep applying attributes of conventional insulation methods to the spray foam methods. They are nothing like each other and the weaknesses of one don't apply to the other and vise versa.
What a shame to see that beautiful wood roof and structure being ruined with that foam. When you'll want to replace a piece or intervene on the structure, good luck getting rid of that stuff.
Your comment is odd. So you like losing all your expensive heated air to the outside? and cause ice damming that rots out roofs all over the country? There is a reason we insulate the building envelope and a good reason we don't build em like we use too.
Old Historic House Owners: if you want to list your home on the historic registry, DO NOT use any spray foam insulation before you FIRST check your state codes. Also, if you have an original self-ventilating slate roof, understand that this is NOT a good idea!
@@IGoProEVERYTHING closed cell insulation acts as a vapor barrier not allowing any air to hit the underside roof deck which would normally cause condensation if fiberglass insulation was used
I was told that the insulating spray foam wicks water / moisture...is there another product? And what about the chemical off-gassing of the spray foam, especially if it is applied too thickly?
Closed cell foam does not absorb moisture, when applied more than two inches thick it's considered a vapor barrier. One tradeoff of this is that if there is a leak in your roof, you won't notice the problem until the roof decking is rotted out because the spray foam will seal it off below. As for off-gassing, if spray foam is installed properly by a reputable professional it only produces fumes during the application process. Once the spray foam is cured it's inert foam that doesn't give off any VOCs, the problem is if the spray foam isn't applied properly because it isn't mixed properly at the nozzle, the mixture ratio is wrong, contamination, etc it can leave behind some unreacted chemicals that will off-gas until the foam is ripped out and applied properly. It pays to use a trained professional to apply spray foam insulation as the application process can be tricky and mistakes can mean having to rip it out.
I just had closed cell foam applied to 3 walls in a room in our house. Within an hour or two after the installers left, I could not smell anything from the foam, the worst smell when they were actually spraying was just like the smell of paint, and now it is gone. Well worth it in our 100 year old house, there was no other way to seal up the walls when the sheathing is the original 1" plank boards, shrunk down and with gaps between after all these years, but still sturdy and solid. We plan to spray foam the attic rafters next, exactly like they did in this video. We don't have an ice dam problem, standing seam roof on a 9/12 pitch the snow slides right off after every storm.
We had closed cell foam applied in our attic by professionals and not experiencing any concerns...did it after we installed a bunch of LED lights (with boots)...we also confirmed that our attic has sufficient venting with baffles before the cellulose went in
Well once you replace your roof and possibly your roof sheathing all that spray in insulation will come out with the old sheathing. Would never do that. All u do is install roof insulation baffles and leave a min of 1 inch air gap behind insulation to roof sheathing. This makes sure the air behind insulation stays cool with air flow from soffit vents to ridge cap still working
Very poor method of insulating the underside of the roof. It should have first had air baffling installed to keep the foam directly off the wood decking.
@@Affordablebath_remodel Yeah its def bad regardless, however with a vent channel the moisture will run to the soffits rather than rotting out the roof sheathing. That's a better situation to have as less damage is likely to occur and you will get visibility to having a problem sooner. I have a friend who worked on a customers roof that didnt vent, and the foam worked so well that they didn't know they had a problem until they replaced their roof (when the shingles were at the end of their life). As a result they had a major repair, as much of the sheathing was rotted out and several of the rafters needed replaced. They ended up removing all the foam and put in vents and refoamed everything. So they did the project 2 times, instead of spending a day installing rafter baffles to begin with.
+Luis Cruz no baffles because they sealed up the roof and in between the joists, if they had insulated the floor, then they would need baffles between the joist to keep the roof cool
Use your logic. Think about a very hot summer day, being underside of your asphalt shingles. Wouldn't it be nice to have some breeze. Shingles think the same way.
Not everybody is looking for cheap. It's really not as expensive as you might think, about $1/board foot. (1 square foot 1" thick) Most people don't need R38 either, outside of New England.
Spray foam is way too dangerous because if the sprayer applies just a little too much it could give off toxic fumes for a very very long time making the whole house uninhabitable. Hard foam panels also have a high insulation and is fairly thin. Thicker isn't always better.
Great so now i get the foam insulation for surrounding walls and between rafters if your making your attic a live in attic but still when you go with a blown in vs a foam insulation. I get when to uses roll out insulation with paper just not when to use blown in or foam for rafters and surrounding walls of floors... If there is even a significant difference other then getting the right R value for insulation quality.
it should be mentioned that: 1) this can potentially have a negative impact on shingles and roof sheathing (trapping moisture, some have recommended adding baffles for soffit to ridge for venting) 2) there is still thermal bridging issues in that the RAFTERS you see in the video will lose heat and you can clearly see the lines on your roof formed after snowfall where it has melted ... SO i wish i myself had instead USED baffles within the gaps, THEN mineral wool (due to fire retardant and water resistance properties, and then a layer of RIDGID foam over the rafters, and finally a layer of firecode drywall.
If applied incorrectly, yes, Spray Foam can be a Bad Thing. Done properly, and the only thing you get is a better insulated house. Also, not every roof assembly needs to be ventilated. That attic area is now conditioned space. So it falls to your HVAC system to properly dehumidify the area.
What about just using string to hold up your sheets of insulation ? Dont get me wrong I like the idea of the spray foam it just seems to be a more practical full coverage and quicker process without having to play in some insulation fiber but if your using the fiber r brand stuff insulation pink pillow rolls then you can staple it up or staple s few lines of string up against the framing whatever depth you think holds the insulation at its proper best functioning place and itll hold that shit it those stud bats until you board it up I'd save a little and use some cheaper 1/4" board sheet rock probably go lighter then that myself and use just quarter inch sheets of the cheap press board or that tack board stuff from home depot its only got to be a barrier for the insulation to be kept to it's own engineered thermostat before it will ever fall/flake apart getting into any valuable breathing air so just do a good job at whatever your doing if something don't make sense ask a friend or meet a new one maybe a neighbor you drive past every day is a construction guy and you see the material in the truck so just ask questions be friendly ask someone who knows what they are talking about and who speaks proper English and if you hire someone do the same and remember you usually get what you pay for who does the job best who do you know you can trust more? Cmon now folks stereo types are usually for a reason it does not make you a racist asshole bigot to do what you know and say or express or fight or build for what you know is real and what you know has been in a down fall for all the ways ..... you already freekn know rightfully said and you can not deny the way you feel as if shits going to hit the fan on your lifetime this coming time so use the real common sense to get the facts straight open your dammed eyes and only speak up when you know the ways of another the ways of a free peaceful happy safe nation are being intentionally infringed upon this is evil vs good no matter what you believe you are apart of a system built on a planet that will self destruct by means of an outside force evil and it seeks to destroy your any chance at water getn thru and molding your weak roofs ..... build a solid foundation there are times to go easy and times to build hard for to better take the fowl weather the first thing to mind is usually your concious from your inner it just is heard in your open tolerant to temptation brain because that's where your ears of your body are try hearing as well with the one thing that you actually have any chance at keeping healthy free of rot and mildew and no leaks unless you just build yours like a lazy lieing..... fool
These guys replying to this video are ignorant to the fact that venting is only needed if the heat would travel to the shingle from the house. With this system that will not happen. also the shingle are a breathable system especially with the breathable underlayment being used by industry pros. unless you have ice and water shield going on the entire roof deck you won't have a ussue with this system.
Yes if you got a super hot attic and a super cold outside temp you could have shingle issues. Hot on the bottom, cold ontop does make things curl because there is a thermal differential. But with closed cell foam inside those rafters, as you noted, it alleviates the problem.
Yes if you use closed cell foam you don't need sofit vents. You'll plug those up. You now have a conditioned space and don't need to bring outside air in for heating, cooling and mold resistance. Sofit vents are to bring cool air from the edge of the roof (lowest part) in so that the hot air at the top of the attic will go out the roof vents. It acts somewhat like a venturi. If you're letting hot air rise out of the top of the roof it will draw air in from below since you're creating low pressure and thus it will draw air in from the sofit. The reason for this is to cool your attic. So this was the old way it was done, which worked okay but it brought the outside air into the envelope of the building (roof line) so you're actual thermal envelope was now ontop of your ceiling. A much better innovation which started a few decades ago is to push the thermal envelope outside of the ceiling insulation and beyond the roof. So now the whole house becomes the thermal envelope. Cold and hot air no longer permeate the building. Our barrier is now further out and the attic now becomes a conditioned space just like the inside of your rooms. This actually alleviates ice dams since hot air is no longer escaping/bleeding through the ceiling up into the attic, it also keeps the house much cooler in summer and much warmer in winter just like a thermus does. It also greatly reduces the energy needed for heating and cooling reducing power costs and helping the environment. It really is a win/win which is why it's been adopted. The only downside if any is that it is expensive.
10" of snow is between R10 and R20 depending on density. This will cause your roof to warm up no matter how much insulation you have sprayed underneath it. Also, the siding can warm up with the sun on it. That heat goes up.... right under your soffits and melts your snow causing an ice dam. If you live in an area where you get snow you NEED to vent your roof.
that used to be thinking in Norway aswel, now it`s code to either have vented roof (Cold air under sloper roof) or downpe from the roof positioned internally (typical flat roof). Looking at youtube, in many of these aspects it semms the US is lagging 20 years behind.
should be called " when you need to replace your roof deck.. yank the whole thing off with a crane " because you will never get that off the trusses and bottom of the deck//
You are absolutely wrong, a sealed rafter bay with CLOSED CELL insulation does not have to breath, do you really think this would pass insulation inspection if this was not the right application?
Good luck with finding a roof leak and by the time you do there will be more than 1 board to replace. Plywood even more . Why not pull attic floor and add 2x4 to the top of each floor joist re-install floor then insulate. Install soffit insulation and ridge vent. Make sure that you have 6' of ice and water shield under shingles. Oh I forgot... that doesn't sell foam insulation .
I've been a builder for many years and have seen quite a fair bit of sheds. The plans in ryan's package czcams.com/users/postUgkxB7IXYxLzb_Ichhe45zM3Im5xfEiSp9vB have some of the nicest looking sheds i've seen in a while.
When I contacted Owens Corning about air under the shingles, they said if you spray like this, you will shorten the life of the shingles on the outside of the house. Air damns need installed from soffit to ridge vent, then cover with insulation. This allows air to move via convection from the soffit up through the ridge vent, keeping the shingles cooler and getting the max life out of the shingles.
This is definitely true, I wonder if it would have any effect on sheet metal roofing, I doubt it, but would love to see some real data.
If you're looking to prevent ice dams air seal the floor in your attic. Light fixtures, interior walls, plumbing stacks, bathroom vents, etc. You don't need to spray 2-lb foam to the underside of your roof deck unless you want the attic to be conditioned space.
the guy in the video actually said he wanted a conditioned space...
I am still learning in my 26 years of working through so many types of roof problems. The solution always depends on many variables. Unfortunately the way we build tends to lead to all sorts of problems for which solutions vary.
Looks great feels warmer already, wasn't the attic being to warm the problem to begin with?
I agree with everything that you said, but I am not a fan of spray foam. I would have screwed 1x3 or 2x4 (home owners choice, I have done both) horizontal 16 inch on center. Installed rafter mates (tunnels) and installed insulation then drywall. Also you must have vented soffits and a ridge vent or gable vents. Problem solved
I know, they did not mention anything about soffits. Does this house have soffits?
oh my the amityville house!
I find even a well insulated home has ice dams. Mine seem to occur when there’s snow on the roof and then the sun comes out. Even on very cold days there’s snow melt and then when the sun shine stops we get freezing eventually if we haven’t had a substantial warming to melt everything off the roof an ice dam forms. How do we battle these?
I swear, 15-30 years from now there's going to be commercials on TV of a lady asking if you or a loved one has been around spray foam insulation resulting in cancer and to give them a call for a cut of the compensation. It's going to be right up there with mesothelioma/asbestos.
already happening
Closed cell spray foam is safe AFTER it fully cures IF it was installed perfectly and properly. If the ratios are slightly off or the installer tries to go too thick on their passes, it's big trouble!
It turned my dog gay!! Join the class action lawsuit!!
With closed-cell spray foam being a vapor barrier, are you worried about moisture getting trapped between the roof deck and spray foam? If so, it would rot out the roof decking.
And the county code clowns wont pay a cent 🙃
Well once you replace your roof and possibly your roof sheathing all that spray in insulation will come out with the old sheathing. Would never do that. All u do is install roof insulation baffles and leave a min of 1 inch air gap behind insulation to roof sheathing. This makes sure the air behind insulation stays cool with air flow from soffit vents to ridge cap still working
@@jheiny1231 I was surprised they didn't install those before spraying.
Insulation is important but the water doesn't stop at the bottom edge of the roof, it stops in the gutters and freezes. It builds up in the gutters until it reaches the top of the facial board. Then the ice crawls into the gap that is between the top of the facial board and the roof deck, then it fills up the soffit, then enters the house. When it reaches warm air it turns to water. Even if it gets under the shingles there is ice barrier at the bottom edge not felt paper. Code in any snowy region is two passes of ice barrier at the bottom edge of the roof then felt paper the rest of the way, anything under a 4/12 pitch gets completely covered in ice shield/barrier. To prevent this from happening you need to remove the gutter, install new ice barrier but this time leave 3 inches of ice barrier hanging over the bottom edge. This then gets folded down over the facial board or aluminum then install the gutter over the ice barrier closing the gap between the top of the facial board and roof deck. That's the correct way. It's all about doing it right in the first place.
I'm not a huge fan of spray foam for a variety of reasons, but it is good in specific applications where more r-value per inch is necessary.
Great for those of us that own old 1 1/2 story homes but what about air flow under the roof? Should there not be a baffle so air flow can come up from the soffet and out the roof vent or was this because there was no real attic
Because of the properties of closed cell spray foam, this technique is both acceptable and a good solution. Another aspect is to keep the interior humidity down (RH). The risk of water vapor condensing on the underside of the roof sheathing is extremely low and depends on the climate zone. Many types of unvented techniques do work if they're done correctly and the climate zone is factored in.
Well once you replace your roof and possibly your roof sheathing all that spray in insulation will come out with the old sheathing. Would never do that. All u do is install roof insulation baffles and leave a min of 1 inch air gap behind insulation to roof sheathing. This makes sure the air behind insulation stays cool with air flow from soffit vents to ridge cap still working
So not only are you conditioning the space, but you're preventing that warm air from escaping the attic and warming the roof, right?
Something to watch for when it comes to these companies that use spray insulation, is that they often "fluff" the insulation in. For example ...when you're looking at adding 10 lbs. of insulation, what they often do is use only 5 lbs., and then charge you for that 10 lbs.
Likely the reason some of these applications fail.
Glad they talked about fire risk with synthetic foam
What about venting to the ridge vent?
That's what I was wondering about
Well once you replace your roof and possibly your roof sheathing all that spray in insulation will come out with the old sheathing. Would never do that. All u do is install roof insulation baffles and leave a min of 1 inch air gap behind insulation to roof sheathing. This makes sure the air behind insulation stays cool with air flow from soffit vents to ridge cap still working
I wonder if any bumps created under the shingles because of expanding foam. There must be some gaps on the roof deck where foam expanded towards outside.
ok, I get that and salt is rusting nails and gutters but is salt bad for the actual shingle?
I thought if u use spray foam it's difficult to sell your house
Or just install an ice shield rubber adhesive barrier strip on the plywood along the top edge of the roof.!
Ahhaaa you know that barrier gets hundreds of nails go thru it when shingles installed. If you believe all the holes self seals than you probably still believe in Santa.
You need 2 inch gap on the rafters for ventilation from the soffits. You can then apply your insulation. Just a matter time for the wood boards to be rotten.
Nope not necessary
So does keeping the windows in attic open in the winter helps?
A bit late to comment, but yes it will help assuming that the attic floor is air tight to the house. The huge danger is that rain/snow can easily blow through an open window even with a screen, so a gable vent with 45deg fins would be the permanent solution.
How does roof vent work when you spray foam it all up like that ?
Foam with not vents will fry the shingles
Fiberglass insulation on top of a leaky floor in the attic may do nothing but redirect air leakage to the eaves, making the dams worse.
Conflating air sealing with insulation is perpetuating dogma. Nice lesson on Ice Dams but incomplete. Wish they'd done a better job distinguishing between stack driven air leakage and heat loss.
Redefining attics with foam is a FANTASTIC home improvement - If you have comfort issues this is likely to significantly improve comfort in the rest of your house too. Overfilling 2lb foam and shaving is overkill imo.
Folks, most of your performance problems are due to air leakage, not insulation levels.
I agree. Very first thing is to make the house air tight and have proper/controlled whole house ventilation via HRV or ERV.
goodness - this is an issue i am trying to remedy NOW :)
Tks YT suggesting vids for me
Now with the spray foam you’ll never see your roof leak until it’s completely rotten. Most roofers won’t warranty a roof with spray foam insulation
Are you sure that is closed cell. I am no pro but i that stuff that you guys sprayed expanded like an open cell.
Spray foam most certainly is a do it yourself job. They sell rather large kits of the 2 part mix for this. It is indeed marketed directly to homeowners, and it's not that difficult. TOH is supposed to be a do it yourself show but it seems like mostly they just say "hire a guy". This was a big job and maybe better hired out, but you can definitely do smaller areas quite easily and relatively low cost.
Ok, I'll tell my mom to buy the kit and go up in the attic.
Well, to be fair, the video came out 6 years before your comment.
@@j.frankparnell3087 Spray foam ain't anything new.
Cna this be done on houses with soffit vents?
Spray foam like that just tickles me the wrong way.. what if they install it wrong and some of the foam doesn't set and cure? What if I get a roof leak, how will I find it before it become a problem? There has to be a better way. I don't like permanent spray foam.
Is diferent ways to do .all depend on what state you live ..every person or company work diferent and every state have diferent rules
Of course the rafters are still exposed and therefore transfer some heat, so might as well toss a layer of XPS on it also before the drywall.
The thermal bridging is very minimal but you could do the XPS if you want to get crazy. They're in such a tiny space that it seems already so overkill.
its not a tiny space? its the roof of the whole house
Be sure to check your local building codes, they vary from state to state, province to province, country to country.
What if i live on a different planet?
What is half inch wall wood?
Question... None of the wood in my home walls are vented. They are sealed in tight, wrapped in foam insulation outside and then with vinyl and inside with drywall and years worth of non-breathable paint. Why don't these studs rot?
They will ‘ have patience
They don't get nearly as hot as the roof decking, but in time they will rot as well
This foam was all the rage in the UK about 15 years ago.......until rafters began to rot away about 5-10 years later. No one uses it any more.
UK houses... disgrace to every builder in this world. Also lack of education in the trade result in all this damp, cold, inefficient brick and mortar cavity crap you call a house.
Is spray foam resist with water?
Is it possible to heat under the overhang? I'll be doing closed cell inside the attic but I want to encourage the snow to come off my roof.
That's a beautiful attic.
was
@@22pilgrim, What are you talking about ?
Get your attic properly insulated and keep your gutters clean.
I dont understand, what about soffit vent baffles running to the ridge vent? Are they needed?
Talk about Over Kill! Reg. 6" Insulation in the Floor with a 6 Mill Plastic Sheeting stapled down, seals any air leaks. Top Off the Floor with simple 1/2" Ext.GradeSheeting for a Finished and safe floor ..Vent the Attic! With Gable End Vents + Mushroom Vents in the Roof every 5 ft.. Has been good enough for decades!
+Selna Goodhead The homeowner said he wanted to use the attic as living space...therefore insulating the rafters was his only option.
If just going to use it as a Heated Storeage space & Lite duty use Room? Just get Approved Electrical installed by a Union IBEW guy.. to Spray Liquid Foam, cost about $3000.Installing a 6" thick Radiant Foam ...
But I would install my own Closed Cell Barrier Panels is another Option) Cut and Fit inbtwn the Rafters would be 50% Cheaper..Top it off with a Drywall Ceiling and good to go.and can do it yourself !
How do you know if there is a roof leak?
You find out in the walls on 1st or 2nd level after it can’t penetrate the foam so then goes down the walls via gravity
Lots of comments about whether this was the right thing to do or not. I only have two words about this project. Thermal bridging. In the north, it's an issue.
Do i cover my artic vents in winter to keep the cold out ?
Is this good to use under a metal roof?
But what about venting for cat condensation super important
wont the foam close in the wood and it will cause moisture
Can I use spray foam if I only have a ridge vent ,and how far do I go with it.
Brilliant material
May seem like a dumb question.... But if they did all that why not just finish that area to the right at the end of the video.
saturn0660 it looks like that area you are talking about is an internal wall and doesn't need to be insulated
That spray cell foam is very flammable. Very good insulation though.
myth. this is closed cell.
Wow.
There are a lot of people commenting here that are really ignorant about how this system works.
They want to keep applying attributes of conventional insulation methods to the spray foam methods.
They are nothing like each other and the weaknesses of one don't apply to the other and vise versa.
Not from Canada that's for sure!
What was used for the wall board?
This guy knows it all 👍👍👍
In Alaska, you better baffle that roof sheathing with eave vents, because even R38 ain't gonna stop it.
What a shame to see that beautiful wood roof and structure being ruined with that foam. When you'll want to replace a piece or intervene on the structure, good luck getting rid of that stuff.
Your comment is odd. So you like losing all your expensive heated air to the outside? and cause ice damming that rots out roofs all over the country? There is a reason we insulate the building envelope and a good reason we don't build em like we use too.
Why don't you show putting up the half inch whatever you said to make it up to code?
Tom O drywall.
Old Historic House Owners: if you want to list your home on the historic registry, DO NOT use any spray foam insulation before you FIRST check your state codes. Also, if you have an original self-ventilating slate roof, understand that this is NOT a good idea!
@Dave Gill Im curious if there is a venting from soffit to ridge if the slate will still get too hot?
He is in the US. Nothing historical it's like... 300? Years old lol
thank you!
No rafter vent?
Not needed
@@jamesmcnaughton5092 Why not? If you do not mind?
@@IGoProEVERYTHING closed cell insulation acts as a vapor barrier not allowing any air to hit the underside roof deck which would normally cause condensation if fiberglass insulation was used
What does it smell like when they are done spraing that foam.
🤘😎💨💨
I was told that the insulating spray foam wicks water / moisture...is there another product? And what about the chemical off-gassing of the spray foam, especially if it is applied too thickly?
Closed cell foam does not absorb moisture, when applied more than two inches thick it's considered a vapor barrier. One tradeoff of this is that if there is a leak in your roof, you won't notice the problem until the roof decking is rotted out because the spray foam will seal it off below. As for off-gassing, if spray foam is installed properly by a reputable professional it only produces fumes during the application process. Once the spray foam is cured it's inert foam that doesn't give off any VOCs, the problem is if the spray foam isn't applied properly because it isn't mixed properly at the nozzle, the mixture ratio is wrong, contamination, etc it can leave behind some unreacted chemicals that will off-gas until the foam is ripped out and applied properly. It pays to use a trained professional to apply spray foam insulation as the application process can be tricky and mistakes can mean having to rip it out.
I just had closed cell foam applied to 3 walls in a room in our house. Within an hour or two after the installers left, I could not smell anything from the foam, the worst smell when they were actually spraying was just like the smell of paint, and now it is gone. Well worth it in our 100 year old house, there was no other way to seal up the walls when the sheathing is the original 1" plank boards, shrunk down and with gaps between after all these years, but still sturdy and solid. We plan to spray foam the attic rafters next, exactly like they did in this video. We don't have an ice dam problem, standing seam roof on a 9/12 pitch the snow slides right off after every storm.
We had closed cell foam applied in our attic by professionals and not experiencing any concerns...did it after we installed a bunch of LED lights (with boots)...we also confirmed that our attic has sufficient venting with baffles before the cellulose went in
I think glass wool is better
I always thought you never install insulation on the roof itself??
my question as well. maybe because of possible leaks? of course metal roof could likely solve that.
@@cdoublejj A metal roof is final, snow doesn't stick to it.
I thought it still needed ventilation between the roof and the sprayed in foam???? Soffits and a ridge vent???
@@jimhendrix7776 nope not necessary in closed cell insulation
Well once you replace your roof and possibly your roof sheathing all that spray in insulation will come out with the old sheathing. Would never do that. All u do is install roof insulation baffles and leave a min of 1 inch air gap behind insulation to roof sheathing. This makes sure the air behind insulation stays cool with air flow from soffit vents to ridge cap still working
Very poor method of insulating the underside of the roof. It should have first had air baffling installed to keep the foam directly off the wood decking.
Check with the APA (AMERICAN PLYWOOD ASSOCIATION) about having ventilation on one side of the sheathing.
@J M If there is no air ventilation from soffit to ridge, and water gets through the roof sheathing, then the roof sheathing will rot out.
@@ryanemge7659 if water gets past the shingles that is not a good thing insulation or not
@@Affordablebath_remodel Yeah its def bad regardless, however with a vent channel the moisture will run to the soffits rather than rotting out the roof sheathing. That's a better situation to have as less damage is likely to occur and you will get visibility to having a problem sooner. I have a friend who worked on a customers roof that didnt vent, and the foam worked so well that they didn't know they had a problem until they replaced their roof (when the shingles were at the end of their life). As a result they had a major repair, as much of the sheathing was rotted out and several of the rafters needed replaced. They ended up removing all the foam and put in vents and refoamed everything. So they did the project 2 times, instead of spending a day installing rafter baffles to begin with.
@@ryanemge7659 what if there is no soffit?
No baffles?
+Luis Cruz no baffles because they sealed up the roof and in between the joists, if they had insulated the floor, then they would need baffles between the joist to keep the roof cool
this method has mixed reviews. some say that it decreases the life of your shingles and then some say that it doesn't hurt? anyone know the truth?
vented attic allow the heat to escape, spray foam keeps the heat out of the house and makes the shingle to absorb more heat.
Use your logic. Think about a very hot summer day, being underside of your asphalt shingles. Wouldn't it be nice to have some breeze. Shingles think the same way.
Not the cheapest solution either.
Not everybody is looking for cheap. It's really not as expensive as you might think, about $1/board foot. (1 square foot 1" thick) Most people don't need R38 either, outside of New England.
how do you feel about radiant barrier attic insulation?
Is this a good solution you use?
Spray foam is way too dangerous because if the sprayer applies just a little too much it could give off toxic fumes for a very very long time making the whole house uninhabitable.
Hard foam panels also have a high insulation and is fairly thin.
Thicker isn't always better.
If pigs could fly they would be an air traffic hazard.
Use much longer shingles.
Shingles are the worst type of roofing materials u can use ‘ the yanks love it
@@martinbyrne6643 Yes, because it is cheap and nobody likes anything to be life long in North Murica.
A good dam video...
It's not fire proof?
nope. batts are, but not rigid
So sad TOH Never mentions CO$T .... nice to know
much better solution is to use ridgid board insulation which is DIY task.
Great so now i get the foam insulation for surrounding walls and between rafters if your making your attic a live in attic but still when you go with a blown in vs a foam insulation. I get when to uses roll out insulation with paper just not when to use blown in or foam for rafters and surrounding walls of floors... If there is even a significant difference other then getting the right R value for insulation quality.
Makes no sense lol!!
Who does not put insulation in the attic? Loss heat
Never use toxic spray foam, use foam board if you must use a foam product
There goes your shingle warranty!
it should be mentioned that: 1) this can potentially have a negative impact on shingles and roof sheathing (trapping moisture, some have recommended adding baffles for soffit to ridge for venting) 2) there is still thermal bridging issues in that the RAFTERS you see in the video will lose heat and you can clearly see the lines on your roof formed after snowfall where it has melted ... SO i wish i myself had instead USED baffles within the gaps, THEN mineral wool (due to fire retardant and water resistance properties, and then a layer of RIDGID foam over the rafters, and finally a layer of firecode drywall.
If you get any leak from that roof, the closed cell foam will hold that water to the underside of the roof and you will rot it. Bad advice.
I agree with you, not a fan of spray foam or spray insulation
better off building a double roof. Put 1 feet of roxual on the outside, 6" in the rafters, then 6" sofit gap and then another roof with shingles.
I heard nightmares about spray foam causing sickness. Where were the vents from the soffit to the Ridgeline? oh well.
If applied incorrectly, yes, Spray Foam can be a Bad Thing.
Done properly, and the only thing you get is a better insulated house.
Also, not every roof assembly needs to be ventilated.
That attic area is now conditioned space. So it falls to your HVAC system to properly dehumidify the area.
What about just using string to hold up your sheets of insulation ? Dont get me wrong I like the idea of the spray foam it just seems to be a more practical full coverage and quicker process without having to play in some insulation fiber but if your using the fiber r brand stuff insulation pink pillow rolls then you can staple it up or staple s few lines of string up against the framing whatever depth you think holds the insulation at its proper best functioning place and itll hold that shit it those stud bats until you board it up I'd save a little and use some cheaper 1/4" board sheet rock probably go lighter then that myself and use just quarter inch sheets of the cheap press board or that tack board stuff from home depot its only got to be a barrier for the insulation to be kept to it's own engineered thermostat before it will ever fall/flake apart getting into any valuable breathing air so just do a good job at whatever your doing if something don't make sense ask a friend or meet a new one maybe a neighbor you drive past every day is a construction guy and you see the material in the truck so just ask questions be friendly ask someone who knows what they are talking about and who speaks proper English and if you hire someone do the same and remember you usually get what you pay for who does the job best who do you know you can trust more? Cmon now folks stereo types are usually for a reason it does not make you a racist asshole bigot to do what you know and say or express or fight or build for what you know is real and what you know has been in a down fall for all the ways ..... you already freekn know rightfully said and you can not deny the way you feel as if shits going to hit the fan on your lifetime this coming time so use the real common sense to get the facts straight open your dammed eyes and only speak up when you know the ways of another the ways of a free peaceful happy safe nation are being intentionally infringed upon this is evil vs good no matter what you believe you are apart of a system built on a planet that will self destruct by means of an outside force evil and it seeks to destroy your any chance at water getn thru and molding your weak roofs ..... build a solid foundation there are times to go easy and times to build hard for to better take the fowl weather the first thing to mind is usually your concious from your inner it just is heard in your open tolerant to temptation brain because that's where your ears of your body are try hearing as well with the one thing that you actually have any chance at keeping healthy free of rot and mildew and no leaks unless you just build yours like a lazy lieing..... fool
What are you babbling on about ?
Lmao
These guys replying to this video are ignorant to the fact that venting is only needed if the heat would travel to the shingle from the house. With this system that will not happen. also the shingle are a breathable system especially with the breathable underlayment being used by industry pros. unless you have ice and water shield going on the entire roof deck you won't have a ussue with this system.
Yes if you got a super hot attic and a super cold outside temp you could have shingle issues. Hot on the bottom, cold ontop does make things curl because there is a thermal differential. But with closed cell foam inside those rafters, as you noted, it alleviates the problem.
Yes if you use closed cell foam you don't need sofit vents. You'll plug those up. You now have a conditioned space and don't need to bring outside air in for heating, cooling and mold resistance.
Sofit vents are to bring cool air from the edge of the roof (lowest part) in so that the hot air at the top of the attic will go out the roof vents. It acts somewhat like a venturi. If you're letting hot air rise out of the top of the roof it will draw air in from below since you're creating low pressure and thus it will draw air in from the sofit. The reason for this is to cool your attic. So this was the old way it was done, which worked okay but it brought the outside air into the envelope of the building (roof line) so you're actual thermal envelope was now ontop of your ceiling.
A much better innovation which started a few decades ago is to push the thermal envelope outside of the ceiling insulation and beyond the roof. So now the whole house becomes the thermal envelope. Cold and hot air no longer permeate the building. Our barrier is now further out and the attic now becomes a conditioned space just like the inside of your rooms. This actually alleviates ice dams since hot air is no longer escaping/bleeding through the ceiling up into the attic, it also keeps the house much cooler in summer and much warmer in winter just like a thermus does. It also greatly reduces the energy needed for heating and cooling reducing power costs and helping the environment. It really is a win/win which is why it's been adopted. The only downside if any is that it is expensive.
10" of snow is between R10 and R20 depending on density. This will cause your roof to warm up no matter how much insulation you have sprayed underneath it. Also, the siding can warm up with the sun on it. That heat goes up.... right under your soffits and melts your snow causing an ice dam. If you live in an area where you get snow you NEED to vent your roof.
check the latest research, it needs a vent , go watch it here from an expert czcams.com/video/Ld8pzIu45F8/video.html
that used to be thinking in Norway aswel, now it`s code to either have vented roof (Cold air under sloper roof) or downpe from the roof positioned internally (typical flat roof).
Looking at youtube, in many of these aspects it semms the US is lagging 20 years behind.
Don't use shingles.
should be called " when you need to replace your roof deck.. yank the whole thing off with a crane " because you will never get that off the trusses and bottom of the deck//
Why don't they just manufacture a double height shingle for the overhang?
Imagine all the other costs associated with this property! You would have to have a TEAM of gardeners for example.
Always befriend your local building-code inspector and then have an adulterous affair with his wife.
F that code.. is the county paying for the extras 🤔
Construccion
The rafters can’t breathe with that foam ‘ they will choke to death and your roof will fall in ‘ timber is like ourselves it needs to breathe
You are absolutely wrong, a sealed rafter bay with CLOSED CELL insulation does not have to breath, do you really think this would pass insulation inspection if this was not the right application?
Never do this.
I'll be here tomorrow to answer all the ridiculous theories to do with spray foam. Looking forward to all the bogus comments !
Cover area with 1/2 wall wood?? Ton of work, I’d just insulate the ceiling attic and not the roof...