Well I was wondering if I'd be in the rockin' chair on medicare! Seriously Ray, very impressive series. I have to say this journey has been a very well documented, careful project. Very much appreciated. We learned along the way with you on this as new things happened and saw firsthand how to get this done. 5 stars!
Hi Franco, Just starting out I had no clue when it comes to blasting, boy did i learn a lot over the past two years thanks to the Tacoma Company! Feel free to hit me up with any questions. Best Regards, Ray
Ray love the detail you put into your vijeos...I’ve watched them all, bought the cabinet and the kit from Tacoma Mike and finally used it yesterday with the most satisfying results. Thank you....
That is great to hear! Mike sure does know his stuff about blasting and how to make a crappy blast cabinet rock! You will be amazed at what you will now be able to do with your upgraded cabinet! Enjoy my friend!
I gotta say Ray that's beautiful. Love the finish.. even more so love it after the 2nd pass. I sure am gonna do the upgrade, definitely convinced me! You're such a bad influence Ray lol
I have one of the older Tacoma upgrade kits and I couldn't be happier - I highly recommend the Tacoma products. It is a different machine with the upgrade and I use it all the time! Don't know how I survived without it.
Hi Ray! I'm REALLY enjoying your videos! I'm guessing you already know this but, maybe not.Utilizing a pair of adjustable pliers (to hold your parts while blasting) will help keep the blasting medium away from your gloves. With this, glove life is extended and there is less chance of blowing medium through a hole in the glove and onto your skin. Thanks for all of your excellent work!
Ray, thank you. I am entering the business, im 62 and want a job to see me out. I have come from the car and motorcycle era and have done a number of rebuilds in my time. Taking a piece of crap and restoring it gives me much purpose. I have been looking at Vapour units too....... what you showed here at your site has really helped in my decision making in relation to equipment potential, and parts restoration via dry blasting. Please do something with aqua blasters too. I owe you a drink, cheers Bud.
Hello Charles, I would like to try the wet blasting, the Tacoma gun works great for that as well. As of now I have too much on my plate but will get a wet cabinet in the future.
Great videos! I just received my upgrade kit, and with your video tutorials it will be much easier and faster to install. I have one question though - I am left handed and I would like install the regulator on the right side leg, and hoses on left side. Do you have any suggestions or comments? Thanks!
I just found your channel and love your content. In my shop I use a vapor honing cabinet for the same purpose and it does quite well. Your method seems to work very well for patina removal and resurfacing for restoration purposes. What I would like to know is how well this low pressure, two step process handles coating (paint, powdercoat, etc) and extensive rust removal?
Thank you! Low to high pressure works very well for most all surface prep except powder coated parts. I found it best to burn or high heat to remove then blasting.
I thought you were upgrading the HF cabinet to a vapor blaster. I heard someone mention “Tacoma kit” in their vapor blaster video. Oh well, how about some wisdom comparing dry vs vapor blasting?
Hello Randy, I am not doing a vapor blaster anytime soon, I may have mentioned it in the past but I just do not have the space right now with the 1970 Nova project going. I can tell you that I have been using my Tacoma upgraded dry blast cabinet daily and its working flawlessly and doing a awesome job on these car parts!
Hi Shaun, There is no set psi or set metering valve setting, you have to create your own base lines. Every part requires a different setting based on the type of metal and to what extent it needs to be cleaned and what surface finish you would like. Small fragile parts require very low psi and a lean to medium metering valve setting with a media that does not damage the substrate of the base metal. A nasty, crusty, rusty part requires a garnet abrasive at higher pressures and ricer metering valve setting. I am working on a video on this very subject but I am not hitting all the correct points for Mike's liking just yet and have scrapped over 16 hours of video so far...
Ray, I use my blast cabinet mostly painted steel parts that have various rusty patches for paint preparation purposes. I typically use ~ 80 t0 100 grit aluminum oxide in my cabinet and before I upgraded it I typically used 80 + psi with my siphon style blast setup. I now have a metering valve system with 1/2" air and media lines and a blast gun sized for my 5hp 80 gallon compressor and 3/4" lines to the cabinet. I was wondering what pressure would you recommend for my application and setup?
I would try lowering your air pressure down to around 40PSI. Give that a try and go from there, the lower the pressure the longer your blast media will last!
@@RaysGarage Thanks Ray for your advice. Last night I adjusted my blast cabinet air regulator for a working pressure of 40psi and opened my metering valve air bleed to about a 1/3 open. My media is an 80grit aluminum oxide, which is quite dense and I was getting some surging of the media with these blast settings. I could see plugs of media flowing through the media tube separated by a more even lighter flow of media. Is this caused by low air pressure or is this caused by the metering valve air bleed setting? This was my first time using a metering valve setup. I think a good idea for a video for you, would be to do one one how to adjust your metering valve and blast pressure for different blast medias and how to troubleshoot blasting performance issues. Thanks again for your help!
Nice to see it finally blasting ....nice finish with those glass beads....Thanks for sharing Ray !!! BTW ...... what size compressor are you using ???...was surprized it working at such a low pressure.. Cheers Frank
Enjoying and appreciating your HF Blast Cabinet upgrade videos, Ray. Very informative and helpful! And now a question: Have you considered using the 1/2" Flexzilla hose for both air and media feed lines? My cabinet has to live outdoors (though protected from the elements) at 8,000' and currently in frigid temps. The typical feed lines really get stiff and I've had good experiences with the Flexzilla products when it comes to cold, one of their promotional points. Thoughts?
Hello Steven, Thanks! I had a viewer contact me a while back with the same issue and he was going to install the 1/2" ID Flexzilla hose on his gun as well but he never got back to me on the results so I am assuming it worked. If you do this please let me know so I can share it with everyone. Only drawback I see is that you will no longer have a clear media hose but do not think that will be an issue at all. Let me know how it works out! Best Regards, Ray
Hi Richard, I have not tried it but this setup will blast soda no problem! I have a video in the works of blasting a motorcycle carb with a mild glass abrasive then glass bead, you will be very impressed with the results! Stay tuned, its on the list of upcoming video projects!
Thanks for the link. I installed the Maxair 3/4” system last week. I initially had 2 connection failures but after some tweaking it worked out well. I like it.
I upgraded from another company got the foot feed and the standard blast gun and put in all new lighting and plumbed in all new 1/2 air lines with a new regulator . Thought I had it . I put in a 90 degree elbo on the bottom of the hopper plate and fired up the cabinet horrible suction I came in looked at some you tube and realized my elbo only had a 5/16 id so I went and got some pvc fittings upgraded to a 1 inch id down to half inch fired it up not it works better but will only blast for about a minute and the sand stops I have to put my finger over the end of the gun and blast back but it does it all over again the sand is not wet. I thought maybe it was blocking down at my elbo . I called Mike and Tacoma and he recommended their upgraded gun . Do I still need the mixing valve my inlet is over 1 inch ID but I had to reduce it down to a 1/2 nipple is this going to restrict my flow? I want to order the upgrade gun but if I can keep from the mixing valve I would rather do that. My business is seasonal I wont have any pay checks until spring I do marine repair thanks
Hi Ray, I have just commissioned my blasting cabinet at the weekend after completing all the mods that you have done to your cabinet. I had to improvise on some of the mods and make a few parts myself like the hopper adaptor as it was going to cost way too much in shipping costs from the USA to the UK. I couldn't be happier with the way it's turned out . However the pipe I have used from the metering valve to the gun is too ridged and so it restricts the ease of use. Can you tell me what type of hose you are using on yours? Kind regards Paul
Hi Paul, The 1/2 ID black hose is a soft GoodYear brand and the clear 1/2 ID media hose has no branding, it's a little stiffer than the black air hose. If you find a nice flexible 1/2 ID hose, you can use it for both the media and air lines. Another viewer found some 1/2 ID Flexzilla hose and said it worked out great, I have not tried this so I can not 100% confirm.
@@RaysGarage Hi Ray, Thank you for getting back to me. I have just purchased some clear PVC hose as I am paranoid about keeping anything silicone out of the system. I am not sure how well it will last but it is more flexible than the reinforced clear hose I was using. I did find a piece of very flexible reinforced hose that came with my cabinet but I suspected that it may be silicone. Good point about the other 1/2" ID hose as it doesn't really need to be clear.....I am currently designing a Powder Coating oven which I will build myself. No point in being able to blast everything insight and leaving it to the elements. Kind regards Paul
Total cost including four different grits of blast media and all of Tacoma Company upgrades was just under $1200 and worth every penny, this cabinet rocks!
Thanks! Yes, you can reuse the media to a point. Look at blast media like a sheet of sandpaper, it will sand until its worn down and not sanding well any longer.
Hello BJ, #75 is a glass abrasive, the #75 is the grit size, #7 is a glass bead, #7 is the bead size. There are cross reference charts online that show these sizes and grits.
How much does it cost to incorporate all these upgrades including the cabinet?? Thx and great video!! I’m considering a bad boy blaster if I can’t justify doing the upgrades to the harby freight cabinet!
Ray's Garage wow! I think I’ll buy the bad boy blaster for $1699 all made in USA! And many options and colors! Only down side is I will have to drive to canton Ohio to pick it up....Thanks for the reply I appreciate it!!
Hi Ray and Merry Christmas. I am trying to setup my blasting cabinet to do some blasting at home and I don’t seem to find any enough consistent info on what I need for the small cabinet. What kind of CFM and pressure would be sufficient for a small gun? And how small is small? I have a 8 CFM @100 PSI compressor. With the abrasive, what is best to paint over? I have glass beads here but I have read the finish isn’t great for painting. Would you be able to help with these questions please?
Hello Vini, Mike Tacoma of the Tacoma Company did experiment with the HF small blast cabinet and could never could get it to perform well so I would stay away from wasting your money on that one. If space is a big issue maybe you could build your own small version of the larger cabinet and use Tacoma's gun kit. 8 CFM will not run any cabinet for any period of time unless you had a massive air storage tank, volume of air is the key behind an efficient blast cabinet and not PSI. Watch my entire series and I think you will then had a really good idea of which direction you should go. Best Regards, Ray
@@RaysGarage Thanks for replying. My cabinet is 100 litres so it may or may not be so small. I am looking to blast small aluminium parts to remove corrosion and paint to then paint over. What do you think is the most suited media? Thanks in advance.
I would recommend #75 glass abrasive for corrosion and paint removal then paint after cleaning. If its a bare metal part then finish with a fine glass bead like #7 or #9
@@viniengel A good quality glass abrasive will not damage or change the surface, if anything the corrosion caused the damage. With a good quality gun set up you can blast at 5 psi for real delicate parts. Glass abrasive is for cleaning and paint prep, glass bead is for finishing unpainted parts. Glass bead does not leave much for paint to grab onto but I have painted glass beaded parts and did not have any issues.
Gary, You saw me do it, did it go thru my finger, no it did not! With the metering valve drain open you are not building up much pressure at the gun, its being redirected out the bottom of the valve, if the hose was plugged it would be forced out the hose and thru the metering valve, this is one of the reasons for back flushing the gun. How about some constructive criticism and quit pointing out all bad in my videos, do your homework before commenting! Best Regards, Ray
@@RaysGarage What about 'if the hose got plugged' did you not understand. You're remarkably sensitive when well meaning people caution you about poor shop practices. I think you do your viewers a disservice when you fall short of really educating. I really like your videos but they need better peer review.
Hey Dave, I’m not sure but I can tell you I’m feeding my cabinet with a 1/2” ID hose off my 3/4” air system that puts out 34 CFM @ 90 PSI I hope this answers your question.
Actually, you can use a third of that. I have the same box and set-up and use just one cup and there is no difference since it slides down fast enough to be reused. Now Ray is using parts that are not particularly dirty but if you blast real rusty parts the media ist dirty within seconds and you should never use media containing a lot of rust and blast aluminium thereafter because rust can get stuck in it. So if you have only a small amount of media it is a quick job to dump it out and use fresh for good results. Have fun, Bernhard
Bernhard, You are 100% correct, stay tuned for the next video where I will demonstrate how very efficient this cabinet performers with minimal blast media!
Love the comparison. Never realized the different media makes to the finishes. Thanks for the great demo and information.
Well I was wondering if I'd be in the rockin' chair on medicare! Seriously Ray, very impressive series. I have to say this journey has been a very well documented, careful project. Very much appreciated. We learned along the way with you on this as new things happened and saw firsthand how to get this done. 5 stars!
Ray, you have me convinced I don't need to be looking at a massive shot blast machine now. Thanks for the demo👌
THank you for the great video. It was extremely educational for someone just starting with media blasting.
Hi Franco, Just starting out I had no clue when it comes to blasting, boy did i learn a lot over the past two years thanks to the Tacoma Company! Feel free to hit me up with any questions. Best Regards, Ray
Just got my email from Tacoma the other day. Cant wait to order my kit. Love the videos!
very good finish.....thanks Ray for showing
Ray love the detail you put into your vijeos...I’ve watched them all, bought the cabinet and the kit from Tacoma Mike and finally used it yesterday with the most satisfying results. Thank you....
That is great to hear! Mike sure does know his stuff about blasting and how to make a crappy blast cabinet rock! You will be amazed at what you will now be able to do with your upgraded cabinet! Enjoy my friend!
Wow two stage media makes a big finnish improvement, no need to brush or buff...LIKE IT!👍👍👍
I gotta say Ray that's beautiful. Love the finish.. even more so love it after the 2nd pass. I sure am gonna do the upgrade, definitely convinced me! You're such a bad influence Ray lol
I have one of the older Tacoma upgrade kits and I couldn't be happier - I highly recommend the Tacoma products. It is a different machine with the upgrade and I use it all the time! Don't know how I survived without it.
Beautiful!
Thank You!
Hi Ray! I'm REALLY enjoying your videos! I'm guessing you already know this but, maybe not.Utilizing a pair of adjustable pliers (to hold your parts while blasting) will help keep the blasting medium away from your gloves. With this, glove life is extended and there is less chance of blowing medium through a hole in the glove and onto your skin. Thanks for all of your excellent work!
Thanks, Yes great tip!!!
The parts came out great.. Thanks for sharing
Very impressive . Great job Ray . Cheers .
Thanks Max!!!
Ray, thank you. I am entering the business, im 62 and want a job to see me out. I have come from the car and motorcycle era and have done a number of rebuilds in my time. Taking a piece of crap and restoring it gives me much purpose. I have been looking at Vapour units too....... what you showed here at your site has really helped in my decision making in relation to equipment potential, and parts restoration via dry blasting. Please do something with aqua blasters too. I owe you a drink, cheers Bud.
Hello Charles, I would like to try the wet blasting, the Tacoma gun works great for that as well. As of now I have too much on my plate but will get a wet cabinet in the future.
Great video Ray. I’m going to get back on my blast cabinet fine adjustments soon.. Happy New Year to you and yours.
Happy New Year Buddy!!!
Great videos! I just received my upgrade kit, and with your video tutorials it will be much easier and faster to install.
I have one question though - I am left handed and I would like install the regulator on the right side leg, and hoses on left side.
Do you have any suggestions or comments? Thanks!
AWESOME Looking good Ray
Looking good!👍🏻👍🏻
I just found your channel and love your content. In my shop I use a vapor honing cabinet for the same purpose and it does quite well. Your method seems to work very well for patina removal and resurfacing for restoration purposes. What I would like to know is how well this low pressure, two step process handles coating (paint, powdercoat, etc) and extensive rust removal?
Thank you! Low to high pressure works very well for most all surface prep except powder coated parts. I found it best to burn or high heat to remove then blasting.
Go Ray !!!
I thought you were upgrading the HF cabinet to a vapor blaster. I heard someone mention “Tacoma kit” in their vapor blaster video. Oh well, how about some wisdom comparing dry vs vapor blasting?
Hello Randy, I am not doing a vapor blaster anytime soon, I may have mentioned it in the past but I just do not have the space right now with the 1970 Nova project going. I can tell you that I have been using my Tacoma upgraded dry blast cabinet daily and its working flawlessly and doing a awesome job on these car parts!
AWESOME!
does Mike or any other reliable source make a chart on blast media and the air pressure they should be run at?
also does the modified shelf eat into the caulk used in the hopper?
Hi Shaun, There is no set psi or set metering valve setting, you have to create your own base lines. Every part requires a different setting based on the type of metal and to what extent it needs to be cleaned and what surface finish you would like. Small fragile parts require very low psi and a lean to medium metering valve setting with a media that does not damage the substrate of the base metal. A nasty, crusty, rusty part requires a garnet abrasive at higher pressures and ricer metering valve setting. I am working on a video on this very subject but I am not hitting all the correct points for Mike's liking just yet and have scrapped over 16 hours of video so far...
I rounded the corners of the grate so it does not cut into the caulked inside seams of the hopper.
Where's the link to get one of those new Ray's Garage Shirts?!
Ray, I use my blast cabinet mostly painted steel parts that have various rusty patches for paint preparation purposes. I typically use ~ 80 t0 100 grit aluminum oxide in my cabinet and before I upgraded it I typically used 80 + psi with my siphon style blast setup. I now have a metering valve system with 1/2" air and media lines and a blast gun sized for my 5hp 80 gallon compressor and 3/4" lines to the cabinet. I was wondering what pressure would you recommend for my application and setup?
I would try lowering your air pressure down to around 40PSI. Give that a try and go from there, the lower the pressure the longer your blast media will last!
@@RaysGarage Thanks Ray for your advice. Last night I adjusted my blast cabinet air regulator for a working pressure of 40psi and opened my metering valve air bleed to about a 1/3 open. My media is an 80grit aluminum oxide, which is quite dense and I was getting some surging of the media with these blast settings. I could see plugs of media flowing through the media tube separated by a more even lighter flow of media. Is this caused by low air pressure or is this caused by the metering valve air bleed setting? This was my first time using a metering valve setup. I think a good idea for a video for you, would be to do one one how to adjust your metering valve and blast pressure for different blast medias and how to troubleshoot blasting performance issues. Thanks again for your help!
@@cujo7240 Let more air flow into your metering valve.
Nice to see it finally blasting ....nice finish with those glass beads....Thanks for sharing Ray !!!
BTW ...... what size compressor are you using ???...was surprized it working at such a low pressure.. Cheers Frank
czcams.com/video/dLOnUdLvDmM/video.html
czcams.com/video/HXKMTE1DbAk/video.html
@@RaysGarage Thanks Ray !!!
Hi Ray, what media and grade would you recommend for blasting cast iron in prep for paint?
#80 Garnet for rough and/or rusty cast iron, #75 Glass abrasive for smooth cast iron. Run at about 45 PSI
Enjoying and appreciating your HF Blast Cabinet upgrade videos, Ray. Very informative and helpful! And now a question: Have you considered using the 1/2" Flexzilla hose for both air and media feed lines? My cabinet has to live outdoors (though protected from the elements) at 8,000' and currently in frigid temps. The typical feed lines really get stiff and I've had good experiences with the Flexzilla products when it comes to cold, one of their promotional points. Thoughts?
Hello Steven, Thanks! I had a viewer contact me a while back with the same issue and he was going to install the 1/2" ID Flexzilla hose on his gun as well but he never got back to me on the results so I am assuming it worked. If you do this please let me know so I can share it with everyone. Only drawback I see is that you will no longer have a clear media hose but do not think that will be an issue at all. Let me know how it works out! Best Regards, Ray
@@RaysGarage It'll likely be a couple of weeks but I'll be sure to let you know!
Thanks again and keep those updates comin'!
Video in minutes 0.27 What medium do you use? Please answer, thank you very much.
Tacoma Company Glass Abrasive #75 in Stage One, Glass Bead #7 in Stage Two
@@RaysGarage What is the benefit of two stages?
Ray have you tried to Soda blast in this new kitted out cabinet? I would love to have a good way to blast Soda for carburettor cleaning.
Hi Richard, I have not tried it but this setup will blast soda no problem! I have a video in the works of blasting a motorcycle carb with a mild glass abrasive then glass bead, you will be very impressed with the results! Stay tuned, its on the list of upcoming video projects!
@@dporrasxtremeLS3 Thank you for your kind words and am happy to hear you enjoyed the series! Best Regards, Ray
Have you done a video on your moisture removal from the air supply? I’d be In what method you use.
czcams.com/video/HXKMTE1DbAk/video.html
Thanks for the link. I installed the Maxair 3/4” system last week. I initially had 2 connection failures but after some tweaking it worked out well. I like it.
@@rerawho czcams.com/video/6FtBr_9PfCQ/video.html
I upgraded from another company got the foot feed and the standard blast gun and put in all new lighting and plumbed in all new 1/2 air lines with a new regulator . Thought I had it . I put in a 90 degree elbo on the bottom of the hopper plate and fired up the cabinet horrible suction I came in looked at some you tube and realized my elbo only had a 5/16 id so I went and got some pvc fittings upgraded to a 1 inch id down to half inch fired it up not it works better but will only blast for about a minute and the sand stops I have to put my finger over the end of the gun and blast back but it does it all over again the sand is not wet. I thought maybe it was blocking down at my elbo . I called Mike and Tacoma and he recommended their upgraded gun . Do I still need the mixing valve my inlet is over 1 inch ID but I had to reduce it down to a 1/2 nipple is this going to restrict my flow? I want to order the upgrade gun but if I can keep from the mixing valve I would rather do that. My business is seasonal I wont have any pay checks until spring I do marine repair thanks
I feel like it's still taking too long to blast especially brass I want to see heavy rust on steel
For heavy rust on steel, use #80 Garnet and about 60 PSI.
czcams.com/video/WkjlW3enBWY/video.html
Hi Ray,
I have just commissioned my blasting cabinet at the weekend after completing all the mods that you have done to your cabinet. I had to improvise on some of the mods and make a few parts myself like the hopper adaptor as it was going to cost way too much in shipping costs from the USA to the UK. I couldn't be happier with the way it's turned out . However the pipe I have used from the metering valve to the gun is too ridged and so it restricts the ease of use. Can you tell me what type of hose you are using on yours?
Kind regards Paul
Hi Paul, The 1/2 ID black hose is a soft GoodYear brand and the clear 1/2 ID media hose has no branding, it's a little stiffer than the black air hose. If you find a nice flexible 1/2 ID hose, you can use it for both the media and air lines. Another viewer found some 1/2 ID Flexzilla hose and said it worked out great, I have not tried this so I can not 100% confirm.
@@RaysGarage Hi Ray, Thank you for getting back to me. I have just purchased some clear PVC hose as I am paranoid about keeping anything silicone out of the system. I am not sure how well it will last but it is more flexible than the reinforced clear hose I was using. I did find a piece of very flexible reinforced hose that came with my cabinet but I suspected that it may be silicone. Good point about the other 1/2" ID hose as it doesn't really need to be clear.....I am currently designing a Powder Coating oven which I will build myself. No point in being able to blast everything insight and leaving it to the elements. Kind regards Paul
Impressive. New to all this. So in the end, what would you say was the overall cost?
Total cost including four different grits of blast media and all of Tacoma Company upgrades was just under $1200 and worth every penny, this cabinet rocks!
looks great. can you reuse the media you used to do that job?
Thanks! Yes, you can reuse the media to a point. Look at blast media like a sheet of sandpaper, it will sand until its worn down and not sanding well any longer.
T/u for the reply
Where is the Tacoma Company selling their product? I cant find anything other than a single listing on ebay
MrDMIGNON You will have to call the Tacoma Company to get additional information, pricing and placing orders 208-264-5543
What is #75 and #7? When i look at the place i get my stuff from it shows as 70/100. What is 76 & 7 equivalent to?
Hello BJ, #75 is a glass abrasive, the #75 is the grit size, #7 is a glass bead, #7 is the bead size. There are cross reference charts online that show these sizes and grits.
How much does it cost to incorporate all these upgrades including the cabinet?? Thx and great video!!
I’m considering a bad boy blaster if I can’t justify doing the upgrades to the harby freight cabinet!
I bought the HF cabinet on sale for $169, if you buy the Deluxe Kit and all Tacoma upgrades and add ons it's just under $1200 shipped.
Ray's Garage wow! I think I’ll buy the bad boy blaster for $1699 all made in USA! And many options and colors! Only down side is I will have to drive to canton Ohio to pick it up....Thanks for the reply I appreciate it!!
@@outdoorzone Shoot me of few pics when you get it set up, (raysgarage69@att.net) I would like to see it because it sounds like a awesome blaster!
Ray's Garage I sure will!!
Hi Ray and Merry Christmas.
I am trying to setup my blasting cabinet to do some blasting at home and I don’t seem to find any enough consistent info on what I need for the small cabinet.
What kind of CFM and pressure would be sufficient for a small gun? And how small is small? I have a 8 CFM @100 PSI compressor.
With the abrasive, what is best to paint over? I have glass beads here but I have read the finish isn’t great for painting.
Would you be able to help with these questions please?
Hello Vini,
Mike Tacoma of the Tacoma Company did experiment with the HF small blast cabinet and could never could get it to perform well so I would stay away from wasting your money on that one. If space is a big issue maybe you could build your own small version of the larger cabinet and use Tacoma's gun kit. 8 CFM will not run any cabinet for any period of time unless you had a massive air storage tank, volume of air is the key behind an efficient blast cabinet and not PSI. Watch my entire series and I think you will then had a really good idea of which direction you should go. Best Regards, Ray
@@RaysGarage Thanks for replying. My cabinet is 100 litres so it may or may not be so small.
I am looking to blast small aluminium parts to remove corrosion and paint to then paint over.
What do you think is the most suited media?
Thanks in advance.
I would recommend #75 glass abrasive for corrosion and paint removal then paint after cleaning. If its a bare metal part then finish with a fine glass bead like #7 or #9
@@RaysGarage thanks, I so basically glass bead isn’t great for painting after? I am always worried that I might damage the surface with crushed glass.
@@viniengel A good quality glass abrasive will not damage or change the surface, if anything the corrosion caused the damage. With a good quality gun set up you can blast at 5 psi for real delicate parts. Glass abrasive is for cleaning and paint prep, glass bead is for finishing unpainted parts. Glass bead does not leave much for paint to grab onto but I have painted glass beaded parts and did not have any issues.
Just asking for an embolism placing finger over gun end at 60psig. If hose got plugged, all that would go into your finger.
Gary, You saw me do it, did it go thru my finger, no it did not! With the metering valve drain open you are not building up much pressure at the gun, its being redirected out the bottom of the valve, if the hose was plugged it would be forced out the hose and thru the metering valve, this is one of the reasons for back flushing the gun. How about some constructive criticism and quit pointing out all bad in my videos, do your homework before commenting! Best Regards, Ray
@@RaysGarage What about 'if the hose got plugged' did you not understand. You're remarkably sensitive when well meaning people caution you about poor shop practices. I think you do your viewers a disservice when you fall short of really educating. I really like your videos but they need better peer review.
Did they stop selling all the upgrade kits?
xephael They are in the process of moving and almost up and running to 100% again!
How can I reach the Tacoma Company??
208-264-5543
What CFM are you using at 25 PSI
Hey Dave, I’m not sure but I can tell you I’m feeding my cabinet with a 1/2” ID hose off my 3/4” air system that puts out 34 CFM @ 90 PSI I hope this answers your question.
where can i buy these upgrades?
THE Nerv Call Mike Tacoma @ 208-264-5543 Thanks for tuning in!!’
Shit, Where am I gonna put mine?
Good
That sure doesn't take much media. Only two beer cups full.
Actually, you can use a third of that. I have the same box and set-up and use just one cup and there is no difference since it slides down fast enough to be reused. Now Ray is using parts that are not particularly dirty but if you blast real rusty parts the media ist dirty within seconds and you should never use media containing a lot of rust and blast aluminium thereafter because rust can get stuck in it. So if you have only a small amount of media it is a quick job to dump it out and use fresh for good results.
Have fun, Bernhard
Bernhard, You are 100% correct, stay tuned for the next video where I will demonstrate how very efficient this cabinet performers with minimal blast media!
The website has changed a bit. They aren't too far from me.
gbowne1 They are in the process of moving and almost up and running to 100% again!
Ray, this video has me excited for my upgrade kit to arrive. First class results!
@@RaysGarage glad to know that.