Great video Julian, quick question, I am having flickering with my PWM tail lights on my car with factory incandescent bulbs. I suspect the PWM frequency is too low. Do you have any idea what the minimum PWM frequency is for automotive rear lights? A bit of a left field question I know, hopefully you or someone who follows you channel can help. Thanks!
Hi Julian, let’s say I just need to step 12v down to 6 then wouldn’t a resistor does this job? I know resistor it’s inefficient since it creates heat but did manufacture use pwm for dash brightness or resistor? Just wondering.... Also, I heard your name from lecture Jamie and I bought your 21 century performance, couldn’t be more happy!!! You’re a absolute legend!
Thanks for the praise. If you have a constant current draw, you can use a resistor. But with a fixed value of resistance, if the current changes, so will the voltage. These days you'd use an eBay buck voltage converter - cheap and easy. (And I don't know of any car manufacturer that uses a variable resistor on their dash lights for many years.)
Hi Julian, thanks for your informative video. I suffer from a disability that gives me headaches from PWM controlled screens such as the latest iphones. Unfortunately all new cars (audi / bmw) all use PWM in their LED and screens lately making most of them unusable. Is there something I could have a technician do (either at the dealership or somewhere else) to increase the on time or have it on all the time? Even if it requires an additional or bigger battery or worse fuel consumption ? thank you
@@JulianEdgar Thanks for responding. It helps a little but not enough unfortunately. People make mods to the (for BMW iDrive) settings and I know PWM is a setting there. Do you see any issues for the car modifying LED settings there?
Hi Julian. I have a question about the motor speed controller that I'm using for my trolling motor. I purchased a 100 amp 60 continuous which is also reversible. When I first hooked this up,I added a 12v fan as I noticed it got rather hot when ran at full speed. I connected it to the power in and added an inline on off switch. When I first turned It on, the fan almost immediately stopped working. I figured the fan may have been bad so I installed another and the same thing, burned out. I figured hooking up to the 12 volt power in would be sufficient. When I check the power going in with the speed controller on,it gave me very erratic readings on my multi meter. The numbers were all over the place. It would jump up and down between 18v to 1v and anywhere in between. It became apparent why the fans burned.I would expect that coming from the power out but from the power in from a 12v battery has me puzzled. I run 3 batteries in parallel with a jump box being the third. When I checked the voltage right at the batteries, the readings were the same. So,I just came to the conclusion that I couldn't run the fan in conjunction with the pwm. Upon probing around a little more, I found that the cigarette plug on the jump box was putting out the correct voltage even though it was connected in parallel with the other 2 batteries. Apparently the small circuit board that connects to the cig plug somehow regulates it. So in the end I just ran the fan via the cig plug. Do you have any idea why the power in behaves in this manner or if there is anything I can add to run the fan. I would like everything to be in one housing with one power source. Thanks.
That sounds pretty odd, almost as if back EMF spikes are coming out of the speed controller. If the fan is fine with the cig plug output you could use a voltage converter of the same type to run just the fan - ie install another for the fan. But it would be best to put a scope on the batteries and see what is actually happening.
Thanks Julian. I ended up taking a small circuit board from an old jump box and wired it inside the cap with the controller. It seems to be working fine for now. If need be. I'll look into a buck converter. Thanks for your advice.
Great video Julian, quick question, I am having flickering with my PWM tail lights on my car with factory incandescent bulbs. I suspect the PWM frequency is too low. Do you have any idea what the minimum PWM frequency is for automotive rear lights? A bit of a left field question I know, hopefully you or someone who follows you channel can help. Thanks!
Hi Julian, let’s say I just need to step 12v down to 6 then wouldn’t a resistor does this job? I know resistor it’s inefficient since it creates heat but did manufacture use pwm for dash brightness or resistor? Just wondering....
Also, I heard your name from lecture Jamie and I bought your 21 century performance, couldn’t be more happy!!!
You’re a absolute legend!
Thanks for the praise. If you have a constant current draw, you can use a resistor. But with a fixed value of resistance, if the current changes, so will the voltage. These days you'd use an eBay buck voltage converter - cheap and easy. (And I don't know of any car manufacturer that uses a variable resistor on their dash lights for many years.)
Amazing. Thanks a lot.
Thank you!
Hi Julian, thanks for your informative video. I suffer from a disability that gives me headaches from PWM controlled screens such as the latest iphones. Unfortunately all new cars (audi / bmw) all use PWM in their LED and screens lately making most of them unusable. Is there something I could have a technician do (either at the dealership or somewhere else) to increase the on time or have it on all the time? Even if it requires an additional or bigger battery or worse fuel consumption ? thank you
No, that would be built into the control software/hardware. (Perhaps if set to full brightness the effect would be less?)
@@JulianEdgar Thanks for responding. It helps a little but not enough unfortunately. People make mods to the (for BMW iDrive) settings and I know PWM is a setting there. Do you see any issues for the car modifying LED settings there?
Should be fine if the software has that setting.
Hi Julian. I have a question about the motor speed controller that I'm using for my trolling motor. I purchased a 100 amp 60 continuous which is also reversible. When I first hooked this up,I added a 12v fan as I noticed it got rather hot when ran at full speed. I connected it to the power in and added an inline on off switch. When I first turned It on, the fan almost immediately stopped working. I figured the fan may have been bad so I installed another and the same thing, burned out. I figured hooking up to the 12 volt power in would be sufficient. When I check the power going in with the speed controller on,it gave me very erratic readings on my multi meter. The numbers were all over the place. It would jump up and down between 18v to 1v and anywhere in between. It became apparent why the fans burned.I would expect that coming from the power out but from the power in from a 12v battery has me puzzled. I run 3 batteries in parallel with a jump box being the third. When I checked the voltage right at the batteries, the readings were the same. So,I just came to the conclusion that I couldn't run the fan in conjunction with the pwm. Upon probing around a little more, I found that the cigarette plug on the jump box was putting out the correct voltage even though it was connected in parallel with the other 2 batteries. Apparently the small circuit board that connects to the cig plug somehow regulates it. So in the end I just ran the fan via the cig plug. Do you have any idea why the power in behaves in this manner or if there is anything I can add to run the fan. I would like everything to be in one housing with one power source. Thanks.
That sounds pretty odd, almost as if back EMF spikes are coming out of the speed controller. If the fan is fine with the cig plug output you could use a voltage converter of the same type to run just the fan - ie install another for the fan. But it would be best to put a scope on the batteries and see what is actually happening.
Thanks Julian. I ended up taking a small circuit board from an old jump box and wired it inside the cap with the controller. It seems to be working fine for now. If need be. I'll look into a buck converter. Thanks for your advice.
Good so i can hot wire it to be on full all the time for my fan at 100%
Only if max duty cycle is normally 100 per cent.
@@JulianEdgar ok