Well you may not of fixed anything, but at least you have now learnt more about what needs to be done to fix it... So not all lost. Keep going buddy, I'm sure you'll win somehow.
I'd say someone's had a go at stealing old river at some point . The notchyness could indicate a previous steering lock breakage and the ignition barrel change is a dead give away . I'm willing to bet the steering lock hole is out of shape where it's been yanked . Great looking bike though , looking forward to watching your progress 👍
Alls not lost Nat at least its not stolen ,alarm bells started ringing with me as soon as you said you bought it if someone who wouldnt stop talking regardless of nationality ,but if you got it for a third of the value thats not so bad 🤔👍
I'll say something about that. As far as I know the original coded key is linked to the dashboard and NOT the ECU. I have already changed an ECU from an accident Shiver for test purposes without the prompt for a code. So your ordered ECU is not necessary. Incidentally, the ECU can be removed without having to touch the radiator. First unplug the upper connector on the ECU, then remove the two screws that hold the ECU. Then push the ECU up so that the lower connector can also be unplugged. Now the ECU can be wobbled out downwards. Greetings from Germany, from a Shiver driver (since 2011 more than 105,000km = 65,000miles)
When I swapped the ECU it cleared the requirement for a code so I am not so sure. Also, my ECU is held in with 4 screws and there is no space to unplug without removing it first. Do you have the same year Shiver?
@@NatsNackersYard : Yes, the same Shiver 750. Honestly even THREE pieces! MY 2011 (my accident motorcycle, 44,600km = 27,700mi) + MY 2013 (I currently drive 75,000km = 47,000mi + MY214 (with engine damage as a spare parts donor)
Dropping the radiator off is no big issue to access the ECU exchange, as you want to change the front plug. If you got it for a third of the price....adding another third for a proper ecu/ignition is acceptable. Benefit is it's ideal for your impending change. Those polymer tanks have been in use since the 90's I think. I had a triumph 955i that had one and a Yamaha tzr, only issue was they would bubble/blister. Great logic & explanation.
The antenna would come out of the bottom of the plastic cover. Your cover shows no sign at all of having one do was replaced previously. In the past you could buy the cover with the antenna attached which would put your system back to normal without needing a new key or ecu. However they are hard to find now days. You could email aprilia asking for advice but I think they advise replacement of the lot sadly
That's much what the company came up with that I was talking to. The antenna would have to be attached to the lock or at least something to be able to propagate the signal to the key. All very complex so I am glad that I have ordered a replacement!
@@NatsNackersYard you ordered a full set? Ecu aswell? Probably a good call there Nat. It has to be right. Be weary that I've read alot about the tanks swelling up and expanding. This is what rips the antenna almost every time. They say not to keep the tanks off the bike and to be very careful when removing the tank over the antenna.
Well you may not of fixed anything, but at least you have now learnt more about what needs to be done to fix it... So not all lost. Keep going buddy, I'm sure you'll win somehow.
Thanks mate.
Great job Nat loving the April bikes I've every confidence in you solving the problem 😀 .
I haven't yet but thanks!
I'd say someone's had a go at stealing old river at some point . The notchyness could indicate a previous steering lock breakage and the ignition barrel change is a dead give away . I'm willing to bet the steering lock hole is out of shape where it's been yanked . Great looking bike though , looking forward to watching your progress 👍
That's a good thought mate. I will have a look!
You must've fancied a challenge with this one, looking forward to how this progresses.
Let's see how it goes mate!
I know you've got a few issues to deal with but the more I look at the bike the more I like it, I think it's a real smart looking machine
It could be a bit special in the end this one mate.
Good one Nat at least now you know where you are it' looks nice just a shame some butcher has been messing with it 😊👍
Situation normal!
Your getting there m8 everydays a learning day
Every day is a school day!
Alls not lost Nat at least its not stolen ,alarm bells started ringing with me as soon as you said you bought it if someone who wouldnt stop talking regardless of nationality ,but if you got it for a third of the value thats not so bad 🤔👍
Let's see how it works out!
I'll say something about that. As far as I know the original coded key is linked to the dashboard and NOT the ECU. I have already changed an ECU from an accident Shiver for test purposes without the prompt for a code. So your ordered ECU is not necessary. Incidentally, the ECU can be removed without having to touch the radiator. First unplug the upper connector on the ECU, then remove the two screws that hold the ECU. Then push the ECU up so that the lower connector can also be unplugged. Now the ECU can be wobbled out downwards. Greetings from Germany, from a Shiver driver (since 2011 more than 105,000km = 65,000miles)
When I swapped the ECU it cleared the requirement for a code so I am not so sure.
Also, my ECU is held in with 4 screws and there is no space to unplug without removing it first. Do you have the same year Shiver?
@@NatsNackersYard : Yes, the same Shiver 750. Honestly even THREE pieces! MY 2011 (my accident motorcycle, 44,600km = 27,700mi) + MY 2013 (I currently drive 75,000km = 47,000mi + MY214 (with engine damage as a spare parts donor)
Dropping the radiator off is no big issue to access the ECU exchange, as you want to change the front plug.
If you got it for a third of the price....adding another third for a proper ecu/ignition is acceptable. Benefit is it's ideal for your impending change.
Those polymer tanks have been in use since the 90's I think. I had a triumph 955i that had one and a Yamaha tzr, only issue was they would bubble/blister.
Great logic & explanation.
Thanks mate.
Electrics my biggest pain in the ass. It is a good looking bike Nat.
It could be mate!
The antenna would come out of the bottom of the plastic cover. Your cover shows no sign at all of having one do was replaced previously.
In the past you could buy the cover with the antenna attached which would put your system back to normal without needing a new key or ecu.
However they are hard to find now days. You could email aprilia asking for advice but I think they advise replacement of the lot sadly
That's much what the company came up with that I was talking to. The antenna would have to be attached to the lock or at least something to be able to propagate the signal to the key. All very complex so I am glad that I have ordered a replacement!
@@NatsNackersYard you ordered a full set? Ecu aswell?
Probably a good call there Nat. It has to be right.
Be weary that I've read alot about the tanks swelling up and expanding. This is what rips the antenna almost every time. They say not to keep the tanks off the bike and to be very careful when removing the tank over the antenna.
@@motorcyclerescuer ECU and full lockset buddy. Fingers crossed it works!
@@NatsNackersYard sounds good Nat. It will work mate, I've no doubt.
@@motorcyclerescuer I do!
🏍👍
💪🏍️
Also I have just been looking and apparently some models you can do yourself if you have that magical code
Only if the ignition has an antenna to see the key and only if it is coded to the ECU unfortunately!
@@NatsNackersYard check out a company called bike decoders
@@chrisktm2010 that's the company that I have already been speaking to mate. Really useful and confirmed what I had been thinking.
I'd get rid. The guy moving abroad is laughing all the way to the bank. He isn't moving now.....
Sorry to be the barre of bad news
Too early to give up mate!
@@NatsNackersYard I did say....