How to Install a Bolt-On Guitar Neck
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- čas přidán 31. 07. 2024
- Chapters:
0:00 A Special Clamp
1:02 Make the Set Marks
1:35 Drill Bit Size and Length
2:03 Keep it Level
3:37 A Little Insurance
4:26 If Only It Was Always This Easy...
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Bolt-On Neck SECRET: Neck Pocket Clearance Holes:
• Bolt-On Neck SECRET | ...
Flatten the Neck Pocket:
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Neck Pocket Deepening with My Custom Plunge Router Baseplate:
• *FLATTEN or DEEPEN the...
Fingerboard Extension Trim Video (Neck Heel Too Shallow)....coming soon!
Dude I've never subscribed to a channel so fast
Thanks so much!
My method of mounting necks on parts guitars is pretty wild. You'll like the tonal perks, though. I push the neck into the long upper wall of pocket. Add or remove material until outside strings are centered. Then drill pilot holes at a slight angle that pulls neck tight into pocket as it's tightened. If the power of that pulls too far toward the bass side, I add hard stuff in pocket till it's true when really tight. SUSTAIN and no shifting EVER!
Quick, clear, concise, accurate information! No need to fast forward through to find the relevant parts. Subscribed.
Thank you so much. This is what I strive to achieve. Really appreciate the support!
As always, a clear and complete guide. Thanks Matt!
This is very useful. Thank you.
I'll be using this method next week when my new Tele neck comes in. Great vid as always. Thanks!
Useful stuff. Thank you.
Ahhh! wrap the top of that C-clamp with leather, it gouges the finish when you torque the screw, the two surfaces are in direct contact. Great video and tips! I looove your half-circle neck rest. Physics at work!
Another steller mini documentary on,🤓 partscasting like a pro!👍
Thanks, this is the best tutorial I've seen for this
Thanks so much! I'll be in the process of redoing this soon, after my more recent video on installing threaded inserts in a neck.
I'm now using a transfer punch chucked in the drill press, and a Woodpecker Mini Square on the neck heel, to verify that the heel of the neck is square to the drill bit before drilling. This is the best way to check for level. I've had great results with the method in this video for many years, but ultimately this will be a more accurate way of doing things.
The bubble level only measures level in relation to the center of the earth. You could have a really uneven floor for example, and a bubble level will tell you where you need to shim the table legs to get your tabletop level, so your pencils and other things don't roll off of it when simply placed onto the tabletop.
But for this job -- not accurate. I wasn't aware of this at the time and will be redoing and re-uploading many of my videos as a result.
That being said, again, I've had plenty of success with this method, which tells me there is some margin for error here. I'll leave this up for now but you'll be one of the few in the know about the updated methods I have for doing these things.
Appreciate the support!
Great tutorial, you deserve a lot more subs, keep going.
Thank you!
Very accommodating sir! Thanks a lot frm your fan in Philippines ❤
Thank you so much for the support! That means the world to me!
I use black, stretchable thread to align the neck.
Tie one end to tuner #1.....down the neck...thru the 1st string bridge hole....up thru 6th string hole....up the neck to tuner #6....tie it off.
You now have 2 'E' strings.
Wow, excellent job.
Thank you so much!
such a great video!
Thank you!
outstanding video
Thank you!
Screw wax! Surprised name wasn’t already taken 😂😂
I know, right? I almost thought it was a joke when I saw it. I was like....no way. Apparently it was up for grabs!
Hi! This video is very helpful, but I got a question: i have a 10yo low cost stratocaster and i noticed the neck is too hight... but it's not flat, it's angled so strings still buzz in the nut, but also very high near the body. So, the solution is to sand the neck pocket in order to reach a flat angle?
First, the most important thing is to measure these three points:
Relief @ 7th fret
Action @ 12th fret
Action @ 1st fret
An angled neck pocket is not necessarily a bad thing. I may be wrong, but I don't think neck angle has any impact on anything aside from action.
That is, adjusting neck angle is not going to affect the action any differently than adjusting the height at the nut or saddles.
If the neck pocket is *uneven* due to finish buildup, or being routed too roughly -- then flattening it can be a huge help. If the pocket is flat, but merely angled, this should not be an issue.
Check the relief @ 7th, action @ 12th, and action @ 1st.
My personal go-to specs on my guitars are: .000" - .002" relief at the 7th fret, around .046" to .050" Low E string, .045" A string, .038" D string, then .030" for the GBE at the 12th fret.
And first fret, .015" wound strings, .009" treble strings. Or .018" wound strings, .012" treble strings. That's a good range to keep them within. .020" is OK on the Low E but around .018" is a good standard 'low action.' .015" can be buzzy on the wound strings if you play with more than a light attack.
But go by those three specs. Set your neck relief first. Then capo at the 1st fret to take the nut out of the equation. Set the action at the 12th or 17th fret with the capo on the 1st.
Then remove the capo at the 1st and file the nut slots down until the desired 1st fret action is reached.
You only need to mess with the neck pocket if it's truly *uneven* from a poor job by the manufacturer or builder, or if you're unable to get the setup specs you want, for example, if the saddles run out of adjustment room.
There are more tips that go beyond this, but these are the basics. Your neck angle is likely OK if your setup specs are within your desired range.
I do recommend clearing the neck pocket holes. But only flatten the pocket if it's absolutely necessary. I'm currently working on designing a neck pocket routing baseplate to attach to a Dremel tool, which is a more advanced version of the one I've used in my videos.
But most of the time it's not necessary. I clear the neck pocket holes on 100% of bolt-on neck guitars I work on. I probably only have to rout the neck pocket on maybe 2% of the bolt-on neck guitars that I work on.
@@guitar_md Man, you're a genius, thanks for your help. I'll try your tips, it's kinda difficult to set my nut and action since I'm testing a heavy string gauge (.13), but it's a really good start point. Thanks a lot ^^
@@RuTnVI Sure thing! Let me know what you find. You can also use discarded pieces of clipped strings as feeler gauges to check your action. This can work great in a pinch.
Any of the action specs I provided, you can test with a feeler gauge or a clipped string end. Remember: relief first, then capo the 1st fret and set the action at the 12th or 17th, then remove the capo, and set the 1st fret action. You can really fine tune everything after that procedure if you're obsessive like I am.
Feel free to ask if you need any advice or help again!