Thanks for the ideas. Having never worked with cyanotypes I was looking for inexpensive alternatives until I get some experiences. We have Dollar Store on what seems like every intersection in Maine.
good job, I use the third option, a picture frame that has four clips in the back. I find it a good idea also to put a small face rag between the wood back and the cyano paper to make sure its tight against the glasse and the image doesnt get out of "focus"
@@NicoleSmallOneonOne hello thanks, what I found when I originally used it was there was a gap between the paper and the printed negative and especially for photographic prints on clear plastic it really made certain parts blurry. I don't fold the face rag so it's not too thick but if it does feel too thick you can use a folded kitchen paper towel. Hey I got some good news coming up soon stay tuned
solid tips :) I have a really old school contact copy frame that I found on a camera market. it's nice with the hinged back but it's small. I can put in a 4x5 negative but the result will be slightly croped.
Hi Nicole! Great video as usual!! So helpful for my students, as I reccomend these options often to them when they are not in lab with contact printing frames. The only good thing about the contact printing frames, is allowing that peek for exposure without moving the contact of negs or objects on paper--But, if test exposures are run to avoid this, it's way cheaper to just improvise as you are suggesting, especially if you are using irregular or larger sized print surfaces. The contact printing frames have become so expensive, it's nuts, and the ones with clamps, will break your fingers! What kind of wood did you have cut? And are you using a mat board on top of that wood to avoid any textures affecting papers when printing? Another thing I like to do is sandwich 2 pieces of glass, especially when doing messy wet processes--but larger, gets very heavy. Another good solution is 1/4 inch masonite with a 2ply mat smooth mat board over it--or wrapping the wood in saran if you are doing wet cyanotypes--or other messy processes. Thanks for the videos! You have such a great voice and presence!
HI Jaimie! Thank you so much I really appreciate your reply! Yes, the contact frames would be ideal, but as you mentioned, it is not in everyone's budget and I like to share options that will encourage others and have them know that they can still do/try something, (such as the Cyanotype ), without having to have the best preferred or particular tools. The plank I got cut is a plywood not sure of specifics as it was a while ago. Thank you again for your positive feedback!
Hi Rachel, thanks for watching! To answer your question, yes and no. I say yes more in regards to safety and it is much easier to pick up and move around with the glass secured onto the wood then for them to be just one piece over the other. I have changed position of the "contact frame" while Cyanotypes have been exposing and with that security, it makes it much easier. .
Thanks for the ideas. Having never worked with cyanotypes I was looking for inexpensive alternatives until I get some experiences. We have Dollar Store on what seems like every intersection in Maine.
Awesome!
You were great. Love ya. Thanks for the tutorial.
Thank you and glad you enjoyed it.
good job, I use the third option, a picture frame that has four clips in the back. I find it a good idea also to put a small face rag between the wood back and the cyano paper to make sure its tight against the glasse and the image doesnt get out of "focus"
Thanks Ray, I enjoy sharing what I hope will be useful for others. Does the face rag not create bumps or creases?
@@NicoleSmallOneonOne hello thanks, what I found when I originally used it was there was a gap between the paper and the printed negative and especially for photographic prints on clear plastic it really made certain parts blurry. I don't fold the face rag so it's not too thick but if it does feel too thick you can use a folded kitchen paper towel. Hey I got some good news coming up soon stay tuned
solid tips :) I have a really old school contact copy frame that I found on a camera market. it's nice with the hinged back but it's small. I can put in a 4x5 negative but the result will be slightly croped.
Thank you!
Hi Nicole! Great video as usual!! So helpful for my students, as I reccomend these options often to them when they are not in lab with contact printing frames. The only good thing about the contact printing frames, is allowing that peek for exposure without moving the contact of negs or objects on paper--But, if test exposures are run to avoid this, it's way cheaper to just improvise as you are suggesting, especially if you are using irregular or larger sized print surfaces.
The contact printing frames have become so expensive, it's nuts, and the ones with clamps, will break your fingers! What kind of wood did you have cut? And are you using a mat board on top of that wood to avoid any textures affecting papers when printing? Another thing I like to do is sandwich 2 pieces of glass, especially when doing messy wet processes--but larger, gets very heavy. Another good solution is 1/4 inch masonite with a 2ply mat smooth mat board over it--or wrapping the wood in saran if you are doing wet cyanotypes--or other messy processes. Thanks for the videos! You have such a great voice and presence!
HI Jaimie! Thank you so much I really appreciate your reply!
Yes, the contact frames would be ideal, but as you mentioned, it is not in everyone's budget and I like to share options that will encourage others and have them know that they can still do/try something, (such as the Cyanotype ), without having to have the best preferred or particular tools.
The plank I got cut is a plywood not sure of specifics as it was a while ago.
Thank you again for your positive feedback!
thanks so much for all of your videos. if the glass of the second option is so heavy, are the clips really necessary?
Hi Rachel, thanks for watching!
To answer your question, yes and no. I say yes more in regards to safety and it is much easier to pick up and move around with the glass secured onto the wood then for them to be just one piece over the other. I have changed position of the "contact frame" while Cyanotypes have been exposing and with that security, it makes it much easier. .
@@NicoleSmallOneonOne that makes sense. thanks for your quick reply!
@@rachelkinbar Your welcome Rachel!